Venice of the Middle East

INTRODUCTION

Imagine yourself in a beautiful piece of land in between a river with sound of birds perching on it’s banks ,whispers of gentle breeze brushing past the leaves of trees ,serene and calmness spread all around ,these magical words are a dream for any nature lover, a gentle soft soul who craves for a simple life out side of his/her bubble of city life .

This world is full of such amazing places ,if only our minds ,eyes and heart could see, sense and feel it .

Welcome to Iraq’s Garden of Eden ,unique wetlands in Southern Iraq where people known as Ma’dan (Arabs of the Marsh ) have lived for centuries .

Iraqi marshlands also known as Mesopotamian marshlands are the largest wetland eco system in the Middle East ,they cover South -western Iraq ,South- western Iran as well as parts of North Kuwait .These Mesopotamian marshlands historically cover over 20,000square kilometers of inter connected mudflats, lakes and wetlands .

GARDEN OF EDEN

Mesopotamia means ,the land between the rivers ,the two rivers are the Tigris and Euphrates, within the confluence lay vast marshlands with lakes ,channels ,river islands and ,forests

Biblical scholars regard the Marshes as the site of legendary Garden of Eden .Situated in Southern Iraq ,the marsh is located at the meeting point of the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers and their confluence ,the waterway is called Shatt al Arab .

Since 2016, Mesopotamian Marshes have been listed as UN Heritage Site .

The moist fertile delta where the two rivers meet is larger than Everglades, Florida (USA ) and roughly equal in area to Massachusetts .This unique eco system has been supporting a unique human civilization and culture for past 7000 years .

LAND OF THE MARSHES

The first literate societies emerged in Southern Mesopotamia which nurtured Sumerian culture and civilization ,who produced the first alphabet and earliest epics which is why it is often referred to as the Cradle of Civilisation .

Parts are permanent marsh ,others seasonal providing habitats for several Marsh Arab tribes and variety of plants and animal species . Marsh people up until 1950’s lived in isolation from rest of the world and could preserve their unique way of life .

MA’DAN TRIBES

Mesopotamian Marshlands are aquatic landscape historically inhabited by the Marsh Arabs also known as the Mad’an which is a collective word for various tribes and clans that live in the waterlogged area .

Ma’dan loosely means plains dwellers and commonly known as Marsh Arabs in English .

Majority of Ma’dan Arabs are Twelver Shia Muslims or Itna Ashari .Many families claim to be descendant of Prophet Muhammad and dye their Kuffiye green .

Ma’dan culture is largely influenced by the Beduoin culture of the desert ,only difference that it’s been adapted for life in the watery marshes .

OCCUPATION

These tribes make a living by fishing ,farming and breeding lifestocks.

The Marsh Arabs domesticate ,water buffalo which provides them with milk ,yoghurt, leather and dung for fuel.

USE OF REEDS

MARSH -CANOE

The Mashoof or Mashuf is a long narrow canoe used by Marsh Arabs ,which is used for fishing and for transportation. This Marsh Canoe is made of different materials like reeds ,papyrus and trees grown locally ,the Marsh Arabs use the Mashuf to gather giant reeds for house building .

Canoes laden with reeds ,men paddle home

HOUSES

Reeds grow everywhere in the marshes and is considered cheapest building material .The beautiful elaborated floating houses of the Marsh Arabs are made entirely of reeds harvested from open water . Arab Marsh lands cover 6,000sq miles of reedbeds ,lakes ,bulrushes ,canals and sedge .

Reed can be used for building houses ,boats ,crops ,writing implements ,paper as well as musical instruments etc .Many domestic necessaties such as beds, cots, baskets and canoe poles are woven from reeds .

Types of Reed Dwellings

Several types of Reed houses are used by the Marsh Arabs which are smaller and less dramatic ,these beautifully elaborated floating houses are made entirely of reeds harvested from open water of the Iraqi Marshlands .

Bayt is a single room dwelling used either as residences or storage ,Raba is maller and less dramatic ,Sariya is the smallest reed house used by the Marsh Arabs while Mudhif is a traditional guest house used for the tribes .

Reed houses last over 25 years .Floating houses made entirely of reeds can be built under 3 days depending upon the size of the structure .

These architectural wonders rest on small islands built with compacted mud and rushes .

Ma’dan live in secluded villages of elaborate reed houses throughout the Marshes ,which often can only be reached by boats ,or Mashuf (Marsh canoe )

Houses built on reed has advantage of being portable and can be easily disassembled ,moved onto higher grounds and rebuilt if the waters rise up in the Marshlands.

The Ma’dan villages are sometimes built directly on platforms or small islands built with compacted mud and rushes with alternate layers of reed mats or reed slits .

1974, The Marshes, near Nasiriya, Iraq Marsh Arab Village , Image Nik Wheeler/CORBIS

A number of small villages exist alongside the marshes ,each containing homes of either the Ma’dan or Beni Hasan most Marsh Arabs belong to the Shia community especially the Twelver or Itna Ashari .Till 1980’s half million Arabs lived in the Marshes .

MUDHIF (The Guest house )

A Mudhif is a type of a Reed House in the swamps of Southern Iraq. It is built using technique that dates back to the Sumerians almost 7,000 years old .

Mudhif architecture has roots in culture of Marsh Arabs .

This traditional building is entirely built from reeds and a special type of grass called Qasab which is a bamboo type of grass that can reach upto 7 1/2 metres or 25 feet tall .

In short Mudhif is a 30 foot high Community House made entirely of reeds ,this architectural wonder is built quick and fast without the use of nails, wood or glass .

DESIGN,USE and CONSTRUCTION

Mudhif (Guest House ) is entirely are made of giant Reeds, which are harvested ,sorted and collected from open water of the Iraqi Marshlands .

It’s design is traditional ,yet communal where the Sheikh leader or a family can decide on the number of pillars to be used in the Mudhif ,usually odd number of reed pillars are used in the construction and the direction of the entrance is always facing Makkah (Saudi Arabia).

The large burrel vaulted have citing sides and reed lattice panels for letting the sunlight and airflow into the dome shaped building thereby keeping temperatures bearable in hot humid summers .

USE

Made entirely of interlocking reed grass the Mudhif is a traditional Reed House made by Ma’dan people in the swaps of Southern Iraq which is used as a ,Political, Social ,Judicial and Religious Centre .

It serves as guest house for the ocassional traveller ,where no payment is accepted for lodging and meals of the visitors ,locals stay and spend time together and guests are offered traditional hospitality .

Series of dozen evenly shaped Cathedral like arches are tightly woven from reefs supporting a curved roof ,oriental carpets blanket the floor.

Mudhif is a pride of every tribe,and it’s barrel vaulted ceilings are a symbol of inheritence ,history and identity of their unique culture .

Furnishings in a Mudhif are sparse where the floors are covered with carpets and there is clay hearth for making coffee and baking bread waiting to be used for weary travellers and visitors .

In short ,Mudhif is a Public Hall where tribes gather together for community ,ceremonies (weddings ,funerals etc) and general meetings .

ECO – CONSTRUCTION

A Mudhif needs to be refurbished after 7 years and rebuilt completely every 15 years .Constructing a Mudhif is a a low cost ,economical and sustainable project .

There is a painkstaking hard work involved in the construction of a Mudhif ,reeds are plucked from the marshes and there are 12 stages of construction of the reed house .It takes time and effort from transport ,sorting ,weaving reeds , and from preparation to furnishing until the whole construction is ready to be used .

Depending upon the size ,it can take a week to 50 days to construct a Mudhif .

The Mudhif is heat insulated as well as biodegradable and recycled .Once the Mudhif has served their purpose it can be used as an animal feed or as fiber binder for mud cakes .

In short it is an Environment Friendly Construction built in harmony with nature.

CHRONICLES OF MARSH LANDS

Wilfred  Patrick Thesiger (1910-2003),a British military officer, explorer and travel writer  is probably the last western writer to have seen and lived amongst the Marsh Arabs from (1951-58) ,recording day to day life in various regions of the Marshlands .

Photo credit : Amazon India

He chronicled his experience in the book, The Marsh Arabs ,which was published in 1964 which later became a Classic .This book is available in online format as well .

ENVIRONMENTAL REFUGEES

Residential islands of the swamp-dwelling Madan in the Hor, the waste of reeds and water on the lower reaches of the Euphrates and Tigris, Iraq.

PARADISE LOST

Since the British led modernisation schemes of Iraq in the 1950’s, the Marsh Arab ,their habitat and fragile eco system has been greatly threatened and damaged .

During the 1990’s Saddam Hussain launched a vast punitive assault that burned and poisoned the reed beds .He built a system of locks ,dykes ,embankments and canals that turned wetlands into a dust bowl.

CLIMATE CHANGE and POLLUTION

Since early 1990’s constant draining of Marshlands with rampant construction of dams over the Tigris and Euphrates rivers ,warfare ,droughts,climate change and pollution have radically altered the environment of Marsh Arabs that in 1994 ,nearly 90 percent swamps in which the Marsh Arabs lived were destroyed ,which doomed the eco system and displaced many from the marshes ,UNHCR provided a case study of the displacement of Marsh Arabs and labelled it as an ,’Environmental Disaster ‘.

An estimated 250,000 Ma’dan people were killed or forced to flee the Marshes and were internally displaced making them refugees throughout Iraq and in neighboring Iran .Many endangered animal,fish and bird species were also deprived of their natural habitat .

RESTORATION

Marshlands of Iraq defined as the Garden of Eden ,bear traces of regions bitter history where the biodiversity of the region has been greatly damaged and come to brink of extinction.

EDEN AGAIN

In 2001 by  Dr.Azzam Alwash and his wife Suzie founded Eden Again an NGO that plans revival of the swamp marshlands .They work closely with the Iraqi Ministry of Water Resources and goal is to restore Iraqi Marshlands that have turned into Desert of more than 20,000 square kilometers.

Photo credit : Eden in Iraq

The Iraq Foundation sponsored the creation of the Eden Again project in 2003 ,this project continues as part of Nature Iraq (a separate environment Iraqi NGO and remains significance for it’s human ,environment and historical impact) .

NATURE IRAQ

Nature Iraq is an NGO run by an American -Iraqi hydraulic engineer who left life in California to improve ,study and provide financial support from USA,Canada,Japan and Italy for improvement and sustain Marsh Arab culture and community. It is accredited to UNEP (United Nations Environmental Programme ).

These Non-Governmental Organisations (NGO’s) along with other governmental schemes have played a key role in restoring the flyway of migratory birds ,support endangered species and sustain fisheries of the Persian Gulf .

They work together to prevent salt-water intrusion into Shatt al -Arab ,high soil salinity in Marshes and adjecent areas deprive Iraq of much needed agricultural land .

CONCLUSION

Despite all efforts the exotic lifestyle has gradually disappeared from the ancient Mesopotamian Marshes ,nevertheless the Marsh Arabs remain one of Iraq’s most underserved population struggling to obtain healthcare ,clean drinking water and adequate nutrition .

The Garden of Eden like the rest of the cultural world waits to rise again like a Pheonix

because……..

The Greater Evil….

Sunday morning I woke up to worst news possible ,news headlines flashed that previous night 14th April 2024  Iran had launched attack on Israeli territory in retaliation to bombing of it’s Diplomatic mission in Damascus (Syria ) on April 1 st 2024 killing 16 people and two of Iran’s top generals in the deadly strike . 

To the uninitiated bombing a diplomatic mission is equivalent to war waged on that country ,in this regard Israel openly defied International law and attacked Iranian souvereginty ,Iran has been quick to respond after Ramzan (holy month of fasting and prayers ).It issued a strong message prior to the retaliatory attack…..

Western powers (Britain ,France ,Germany and may European countries along with America )had been trying to instigate Iran and drag it into this Middle East conflict for a real long time . American western policies have starved this nation with International sanctions for decades ,a country punished by the west imposing ban to cripple it’s economy and break it politically ,economically and even regionally has since then  fought back against the odds and has   advanced itself in every field be it science ,technology or arts bringing out best  scientists,engineers and doctors  who are at par with international standards .

This ancient civilisation has been so rich in arts and traditions that Persian (Iran) handicrafts and cultural traditions  have been inspired throughout Central Asia ,the Indian Sub-continent ,South Asia and much of Middle East.

Karbala 

One reel from trustee of  Khwaja Ajmer Shrine (India ) a Sunni intellectual  has been circulating in social media where the individual talks about silence of the Arab world and that Iran been powerful not only in military strength but spiritually too .He goes on to say it is strong because ,”they have love for Imam Hussain “.

True ,this Shia  country and it’s citizens commemorate and learn lessons from the tragedy of Karbala right from their childhood .It is an important event in Islamic history  probably a dark chapter ,that clearly demarcates right between the wrong and the overcome of truth against false narrative .

The defeaning silence of the world on the genocide in Gaza (Palestine )and the upstart arrogance shown by American and Israeli allies shows us that those who have power has made them become corrupt and selfish that to safeguard their seats these leaders are willing to sacrifice their moral values,ethics and above all sense of humanity .

Iran has openly spoken against atrocities taking place in Gaza against women and children along with many Arab nations offering just lip service ……

American policies in Middle East 

As a school going kid in the 1980’s I often heard talks surrounding Iran-Iraq war around the dining table and Ammajan ( maternal grandmother) coining Shaitaan e Awwal (Greater Evil) for United States of America (USA).

I could’nt realise the gravity of those words until I witnessed it happening in my lifetime ,right from American intervention during the 1990’s and it’s establishment of military bases in the Gulf following the invasion of Iraq under Saddam Hussain’s rule.

American presence in the region has already added to the regional conflict and has had a profound boomerang impact  with the destruction of Iraq ,Afghanistan ,Syria ,Libya and now genocide in (Gaza )Palestine ,burning down the region’s unique cultural heritage  and depriving it’s people infact generations to overcome the damage already caused .

These conflicts gave birth to terrorist organisations like ISIS ,Daesh etc adding fuel to already burning state of affairs in the region ,Saddam Hussain and Osama bin Laden  were all once funded and supported  by American government.

War Rules 

Israel has openly defied International law or war rules  with having the support of it’s major ally America in it’s military offensive in Gaza ,it has targetted hospitals,schools,places of worship and even refugee camps ensuring maximum damage to infrastructure as well incessantly slaughtering of women and lives of innocent children since October 7th 2023, thereby giving collective punishment to  an entire population of which 80 percent consisted of small children. This will go down in history as the most coward act on civilian population of which children formed majority .

While Iran on other hand attacked only military installations especially the Negev air base from where the attack on it’s counsulate in Damascus was launched ,safeguarding loss to any civilian bloodshed along the way .
This military act clearly demonstrates that the Iranian regime of being ethically more grounded than the so called Western allies of Israel .

Save the Date 

Timing of Iranian attack on Israel ,Sunday 14th April 2024 ,ironically coincides with a historic date in history according to Islamic calender (5th Shawwal )which marks ,Battle of Trench ( Khybar) fought in 627 between Prophet Muhammad PBUH and the Arab tribes allied with the Jews, a trench was dug at the suggestion of Salman al Farsi (Persian ).On that day  Imam Ali faced off against a Jewish chief Amr ibn Abd Wud and Prophet Muhammad said ,”true faith has emerged against absolute disbelief “.

Greatest Military Display in Recent History 

Scott Ritter ( former Marine Corps Intelligence Officer  ,former UN inspector of Weapons ) in an online interview shared his update on the state of affairs coming after the first  ever direct attack of Iran  into the State of Israel as the ,”greatest  military display in recent history “.

The attack was launched 1,000km away from Israel and Iran along with Syria, Lebanon ,Yemen and Iraq sent a volley of drones and missilies simultaneously in a Three (3) layered missile attack overwhelming the Israeli Defence System hitting their military targets with exact precision.

“Beauty of this attack is that they (Iranians )did’nt used their best missiles” .Ritter added .

Joe Biden has already told Netanyahu that US won’t take part in counter strike ,though Israel has Iron Clad Support of the United States of America .

Crowds of Israeli settlers have been seen flooding the airports finding their way out of the conflict zone.

Role of the UN and Arabs 

United Nations failed to act as a buffer zone ,providing aid and relief to the defenseless Palestinian’s in form of a permanent ceasefire .It’s inability to function in the role it was built upon has failed our trust in any International organisation built to protect human rights .

Sadly the 56 Muslim countries of the world  with many surrounding Palestine and Israel failed to take collective and strong action against the utterly inhuman acts of aggression committed by Israel in it’s offensive in Gaza on the defenseless Palestinian population and will go down in history that no one except Iran , Lebanon and Syria came forward openly to challenge and speak against Israeli aggression in Palestine ,these Arab leaders did nothing concrete to stop the conflict from spreading further rather than offering only lip service .

Infact  Jordan’s role in intercepting the Persian missile on way to Israel clearly shows the rupture and lack of solidarity within the Muslim Ummah .

Gaza 

Palestinian’s in Gaza have been heard shouting slogans such as ,”For the blood of kids and women of Gaza “,”For the blood of Solemani “, these weary Gazans would have had a peaceful  14 th April night without having to deal Israeli drones hovering over their heads and threats of massacre .

It is interesting to note that America , a super power built on refugee mind bank and it’s population has had a hand in destroying those very countries from where that talent came from. .

Modern warfare 

History is full of wars waged for land ,power and money and this conflict is no different ,it is fought on ursurped land occupied by Zionist regime in Israel ,settling itself on defenseless Palestinian population since 1947 but one unique aspect of this modern age conflict has been that live videos ,images were streamed into our phones ,tablets and screens of missiles and drones sent by Iran into Israel brushing past Islam’s holiest sites located in two different countries Masjid Al Aqsa ,Jerusalem  (Palestinian territories ) and Imam Hussain a.s Shrine in  Karbala (Iraq) .

Being Human 

No educated ,peace loving ordinary citizen of the world would ever want bloodshed or war which results only in destruction of human lives and property and nothing else .

I recently learnt that being orphan does’nt necessarily means someone who lost their father ,rather someone who’s deprived of Ethics and Education ,this definition does makes sense because education without traces of moral ,ethical values is incomplete .It’s like a Police officer accepting bribe or a Judge accepting favors or influence over his/her  judgement .

Like wise political leaders have shown lesser mortals like us, how small and insignificant is their approach to achieve goals which costs innumerable innocent human lives .How poor and orphaned is their approach to sustain goodwill among the rich and the powerful.

Israel has proven itself as a Rouge State ,openly violating 45 UN resolutions and America using it’s veto power 43 times in support of Israel at the UN .Recent turn of events and genocide in Gaza has damaged and costed them both their reputation of being any sense ,the only democracy in the Middle East (Israel ) or Messiah of democracy (America ).

The dominos of Zionism is beginning to brake up and has been challenged by a Muslim country already burderned by sanctions and bans . It looks like story of the Rabbit and Tortoise been played before us in real time .

Writer in Me 

I am not a Political writer but one who deeply values and cherishes the inter mingling of different cultures and the diversity of the world ,but the unfavourable  circumstances developing in Middle East threatening lives and cultural heritage of the region has forced me to write ,chain my emotions and share it with people .

It  pained me to see a rich Palestinian heritage crushed under Israeli drones  and bulldozers and now another culturally rich country being threatened for destruction. and dragged into a regional conflict threatening peace ,security and geo politics of the region .

It would pain me a lifetime if I don’t address these thoughts and  just be a mere spectator in this senseless conflict taking place in our midst .I write and I write with a heavy heart because one day our generations would question us as to , Why do we only Rest in Peace ?and why don’t  we Live in Peace too ,it’s a question we should all ask ourselves and seek answer for it .

How far this escalating tension in Middle East  would take us ,how many more innocent lives would be lost and paralysed only time will tell.These unhealthy developments are a perfect recipe for a World War Three (3) taking shape with countries either backing and helping Israel or Iran, which would show that we might have grown and advanced in science and technology but morally we as humans are still corrupt and have’nt grown to be mature enough to Live and Let Other’s Live .

Light of the Lamp

INTRODUCTION

The month of reflection, prayer and fasting Ramzan is observed throughout the world, where Muslims observe fast and prayers from dawn to dusk.

With the genocide in Gaza ,famine in Yemen, war between Russia and Ukraine and the displacement of Rohingya’s from their homeland of Burma ,it has become more important for us to reflect upon the teachings of Prophet Muhammad pbuh to become a better human being ,to seek light in the sermons , in a world which has increasingly become dark with false narrative and lies.

Light is associated with truth or divine light,”the word of God is a lamp by night ,a light by day and a delight at all times ”.

Before electricity became normal for lighting spaces ,oils and fats were used as fuel to light up a space .

Praying  together in large places required lamps to brighten and light up the space especially public places where the faithful gathered in large numbers to pray especially during the holy month of Ramazan ,festivals and holidays.

Public buildings during 13th and 14th century Mamluk Sultanate period had a special oil lamp made for public and religious buildings ,a delicate glass lamp known as Mishkah (Mosque Lamp)

MAMLUK SULTANATE

Word Mamluk means owned and Mamluk’s were military caste of free slave soldiers or slave warriors of medival Islam that overthrew their masters ,defeated Mongols and the Crusaders and established a dynasty headed by a Sultan .

Mamluk Sultanate extended from Mamluk Egypt ,Levant and Hejaz from mid 13th -early 16th century.They ruled Egypt and Syria for around three centuries until Ottoman conquest of 1517.

Mamluk Art’s

Mamluk period is considered as a Glorious period, where the Sultan’s commissioned lavish archaelogical projects and encouraged the production of fine arts .

Mamluk decorative arts especially enamelled and gilded glass ,inlaid metal ,wood work and textiles were prized around the Mediterranian as well as in Europe .

                  GOLDEN AGE OF ISLAMIC GLASSWARE

Islamic enameled and gilded glassware was the most prized glassware ,produced exclusively during 13-14 th century in Ayyubid and Mamluk Egypt and Syria .This period is mentioned in history as the,” Golden Age of Islamic Glassware “.

Glass from muslim world especially Syria was highly prized across the world and Cairo (Egypt ),Aleppo ,Damascus ( Syria) were most important centres of glass production .

Mosque lamps on display at Sheikh Faisal Bin Qassim Al -Thani Museum near, Shahaniya ,Doha Qatar

Mamluk Glassware

Glassmakers combined glass blow techniques used during Roman times with new techniques achieved in enamelware and gliding .

Photo credit : Bayt Al-Fann

Mamluk enamel workers mastered a technique that would enable to fire enamels at same time .This process required great skill ,patience and experience .

 Mamluk glassware also had an influence on the Venitian glass industry .

MOSQUE LAMPS (Mishkah)

Mosque lamps known as Mishkah during Mamluk period are glass oil lamps which were used to light public buildings of the Islamic world in the Middle ages.

They were made of glass to protect lamp (misbah) inside from being blown out by the wind and to diffuse the light .

Made of  gilded enamelled glass often decorated with gliding using gold leaf the Mosque lamp (Mishkah) was considered to translate divine presence within the edifice .

WEALTHY PATRONS

Mosque lamps (Mishkah) were a key endowment from wealthy patrons like Sultans and elite  members of his court,they were either commissioned or gifted to the ruler by the patrons .Often a wealthy official would donate these lamps to a mosque or a shrine as an expression of charity and piety .

These exquisite beauties served architectular function as well as adding to the aesthetics of the interiors.

USE

The Mosque lamp( Mishkah) was used for Secular as well as Religious buildings ,the (Mishkah) commonly adored mosques , this type of Islamic glassware was also used to provide light  in a range of spaces like Mausoleums (tombs) ,Madrasa (schools) , Khanqas (hostels) ,Hospices (old age homes ) and Palaces .

Photo credit : Pinterest

Carboni says ,” a lighting device made for a devotional building in Islamic world such as a Mosque,Madarsa ,Mausoleum ,Khanqah “.

SHAPE and SIZE

General shape of a mosque lamp (Mishkah) was like a Flower Vase , with a flattened globular body and wide funnle shaped neck ,resting either on a flaring cone or a simple circular disk .

Photo credit : Smart history LtoR Calouste Gulbenkian Museum ,Freer Museum and Trustees of the British Museum

During Mamluk period various pious institutions founded by Sultans and Amirs brought demand in elaborate enamelled and gilded lamps to lighten public spaces .

Design of the lamps were almost identical with body ,handle and inner oil and wick holder .

Photo credit : Brooklyn Museum ,(Heritage Science)

SIZE

The clear bubbly hand blown glass ,tinge free with applied lugs ,enamelled and gilded were made of various sizes .

Small lamps measured 35 cm in height , whereas the Sultan’s or Emir’s commission were much larger in size with lamps measuring 38-42cm ,these large lamps were commissioned by the Sultan and members of his court for use in religious as well as public buildings while some were recieved as gifts to the treasury .

CEILING ( Presence of Divine Light )

These fragile vessels were suspended from ceiling by means of long chains attached to six regular holded projections on it’s sides or glass loops and suspended from rims were beaker like container .

These lamps hung from ceiling served visual clues to remind the worshipper of the  presence of God and His light everywhere .

Photo credit :Smarthistory

The Mishkah contained a  glass vessel usually a saucer or tube taper which held oil and a wick so that it would cast it’s gentle light over the congregration of believers in the mosque to perform the three obligatory prayers of evening , night and dawn .

Photo credit :Smarthistory

These oil lamps were universally suspended from the ceilings casting a shadow of fragile glass and colours inscribed and enamelled in the most rich colours thereby making the interiors look aesthetically pleasing as well as serving purpose of giving light .

GILT and ENAMEL paint

The Mishkah lamps were elboratedly decorated with paint (gilt and enamel ) ,coloured enamel made from powdered coloured glass in red ,blue,green ,white and gold adorned the surface vessel and the gilt paint was usually of gold leaf ,gliding was added in the final stage of decorating the enamel .

 

Photo credit : MWNF

TEXT, VERSE and MOTIFS

Perhaps the most important decoration of the Mishkah was the Arabic Script ,particularly Naksh ,Thuluth and Kufic scripts were favoured over a floral background ,the text often included a Quranic verse ,Sultan’s name as symbolic, or commemorating a social,historical event .

The beautiful text also included heraldic emblems ,recording donors as well as being purely decorative motifs .

Along it’s neck and body are Arabian script including verses from the Holy Qur’an ,name of the Sultan .

QURANIC VERSE

“The lamp enclosed in glass:the glass as it were a brilliant star”.

Throughout the Holy Quran concept of Light appears 152 times in 23 Surahs, in short it stands as a motif of light and knowledge of God .

Intricate decorations of Mamluk glassware can be seen in Miskah (Mosque lamps ) many carrying Quranic verse, the most favored verse used to decorate the surface of the glass lamp is the Light Verse (Surah 24-verse 35) ,

“Allah is the light ,the likeness of this light is as a wick holder ,wherein is light the light in a glass ,the glass as if it were a glittering star “,AYAT AL-NUR Qura’n (24:35)  describing the light of God as being made of crystal lit from olive oil that glows without being touched by fire and shining like a star .

Mosque lamp ,Mishkah on display at the Fitzwilliam Museum with Quranic inscription ,”God is the light of heaven and Earth .His light is like a niche in which is a lamp “,mid 14th century made in order from Emir Shaykhu (1349-1356).

MOTIFS DECORATIONS

Motifs include lotus flowers ,palmettes and interlocking motifs imitating plaited Kufic vertical strokes of Arabic letters to form intricate patterns .

Some lamps abandoned inscriptions entirely instead featuring arabesque patterns and lotus flowers .

BLAZONS (COAT OF ARMS )

Well known blazons are often of European origins but very few are aware that many Pre modern Islamic world had blazons which were used by many Islamic dynasties as a symbol of royalty and rank, like Nasrids (Spain), Mamluk (Egypt ,Syria ) ,Ayyubids (Iraq ,Palestine ,Yemen ) ,Seljuk (Iraq, Iran,Turkey ) dynasties  etc .

Photo credit :Calouste Gulbenkian Museum ,Lamp from Mosque of Sultan Hassan ,Egypt (1354-61),enamel -gilt glass.

Mamluk Sultans and Emirs personalised blazons which were considered to be important symbols of their status and distinctive culture feature of Mamluk ruling class.

There was limited set of images and symbols for their charges about 45 symbols that included cup, sword ,bow-arrow ,pen holder ,animals and epigraphic blazons with Arab script of heraldic repertoire .

Coat of Arms or Blazons displayed on the delicate glass lamps now displayed in various Museums across the world .

EUROPE AND MAMLUKS

Mamluk lamps were exported to Venice (Italy ,Europe )and were seen as prized and luxurious products ,the Mamluk Sultanate became Venice (Italy)main trading partners and together they shared a strong political and economic relations.

Photo credit : Victoria and Albert Museum ,clear colourless glass lamp with 4 molded handles 1550-1600,Italy (Venice)

Trade flourished between Mamluk Sultans and later their contemporaries with Europe that by 16the century products of the Islamic world could be found in almost every wealthy house in Europe .

Islamic products such as lamps and carpets found in Renaissance artworks held Christian themes and some were used to decorate European Christian Churches .

Mamluk glassware had influence on the Venitian glass industry and many mosque lamps important to Islamic faith were produced in Venice for religious purposes .

MUSEUM COLLECTIONS

Glass mosque lamps often with enamel decorations and gliding have survived in considerable numbers in present times ,infact ,59 lamps commissioned for Mamluk Sultan Barquq (a keen connoisseur of exquisite arts ) survive even to this day .

Photo credit : British Museum ,Mosque lamp Egypt( 1330)

Many of them have found homes in either Private collections (eg. Khalili collection ),in Auction houses ( Christies ,Michael Backman )or Museums giving testimony to the golden age of Islamic glassware and craftsmenship to the world .

List of Museums include The Metropolitan Museum of Art  ,Virtual Museum ,Walter Art Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum,National Museum of Scotland ,British Museum, Brooklyn Museum ,Ashmolean Museum ,Museum of Islamic Art Cairo,Doha and Kuala Lampur and many more.

Photo credit :Museum of Islamic Art ,Doha Qatar

DECLINE and RISE

By late 13th century to around 15th century these Mosque lamps were produced in large numbers in Cairo and Damascus .By early 15th century all production of Islamic enamelware and gilt glass had greatly declined .

Photo  credit : 1stDibs

Mamluk Mosque lamps were of particular interest in 19th century to collectors especially from Europe due to their exotic and luxurious appearance and major collections of gilded and enamel glassware were formed in the 19th century and these exotic lamps were so highly prized by European collectors that by 1880 very few remained in Cairo.

MAMLUK REVIVAL PERIOD

In the 19th century there was significant appreciation for Mamluk Arts in Europe and as such it is named as Mamluk Revival Period .It was an artistic style that originated in Europe (1878-1914) to meet needs of European tourist and collectors .

Original artefacts were collected and craftsmen used techniques such as inlaid metalwork or enamel ware to make modern interpretations which they applied to traditional or European inspired prototype such as furniture etc.

Photo credit :The Metropolitan Museum,New York (USA)

A large number of independent glassmakers made copies or interpretations of the original vessels .Most renowened artists from that period are Belgian born Phillip -Joseph Brocard (1831-1896) ,Austrian brothers Joset and Ludwig Lobmeyr and glass workers of Salviati factory at Murano ,Venice .

Mamluk revival enamelware mosque lamps in  Europe 19/20th century have survived the passage of time ,and works of glass craftsmen of this period are been displayed in various Art Museums ,Antiques centre and Museums around the world.

OTHER MEDIUM

Photo credit :L to R :Iznik Ceramic Lamp (Turkey )Metropolitan Museum of Art , Middle ,Oriental Art Auction ,Bronze with Cloisonne enamel 19th century China and Right ,Mamluk Marble plaque with a mosque lamp found at the Madarsa Bedeiriyya ,14th century now displayed in the Museum of Islamic Art ,Cairo (Egypt).

Mosque lamps ( Mishkah) style of hanging lamps have been inspired in various other mediums throughout Islamic history in ceramics ,stone, ,bronze ,marble ,tiles and textiles .

Photo credit : Aga Khan Museum ,Toronto (Canada ) Group of 18 tiles mihrab panel with mosque lamp in between ,Syria 1575 .  Right , Prayer rug with triple arch design and mosque lamp in centre ,(silk and wool )Turkey 1575-90 displayed at The Metropolitan Museum ,New York (USA )

This motif representing God’s divine light has adorned the most important part of Mosque,the  Qibla wall( direction where Muslims pray five times daily ) ,with calligraphy panels adoring it’s sides .

 Photo credit :Medium ,Tile panel from architectural niche ,Kashan (Iran) 14th century Metropolitan Museum of Art

REFERENCE

Any one interested in reading more about the Mosque Lamps can read the book, Symbol of Divine Light , by Nicholas Stone published in 2018. This work survey’s the history of Mosque lamp in different historical periods and the deep significance of light and lamp in Islamic culture and other traditions .

CONCLUSION

Photo credit : Wonderloot blogspot , Dining room at Peacock Pavilions Marrakech (Morocco)

The new version of Mosque lamps adoring a modern home and boutique hotel ( Peacock Pavilions ) run by a young American, Maryam Montague based in the historic city of Marrakech (Morocco)reminds us the fact that just like music , material culture doesn’t have boundaries.

We should honor and accept them with open arms and that’s humanity and this is what the month of fasting Ramzan teaches us, of learning, tolerance and acceptance as one says,

“Glow where ever you go and let the light of God reflect in the world around you ”.

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Playing Holi with Gulaal Gota

Introduction 

Holi the vibrant festival of Colours is celebrated across India. 

It marks the arrival of spring. Since it is associated with positivity, love and hope, I decided to write on something unique that brings, promotes and prospers love. 

Gulaal  Gota 

Holi festival is enjoyed and played across India using pichkaari, by throwing colours filled with balloons or drabbing one another with dry gulaal or water colours. 

In Jaipur (Rajasthan) Holi is played with a unique accessory called the Gulaal Gota, it is considered a well known weapon for playing a safe and vibrant Holi festival. 

The word Gulaal  means Colour and Gota means Balls, simply  Coloured Ball . 

Gulaal Gota is a small light weight  ball made of lac that is filled with dry gulaal and thrown at people during Holi. 

Who makes it 

It is a 400 year old craft made from Lac shells by Muslim craftsmen who have practiced this handicraft for generations. 

Manihaaroen ka Raasta 

Gulaal Gota can be found being practiced in Maniharoen ka Raasta  (locality in the old city of Jaipur ). 

The ancestors of Manihaars were shepherds and horse traders who came from Afghanistan and Arabian Peninsula.

They settled in Shahpura and Bagru ( a town near Jaipur )and learned lac making from Hindu lac makers called Lakhere. 

When the city of Jaipur was established in 1727 by Sawai Jai Singh, Manihaar craftsmen were relocated from the erstwhile capital of Jaipur city ,Amer and a dedicated lane at Tripolia bazaar was given to the Manihaar community to stay and practice their craft .

It was eventually named Manihaaroen ka Raasta. 

It is in this place that lac bangles, jewelry and Gulaal Gota are made and sold to tourists and local population who wish to keep a memory of the heritage of this ancient city. 

For Manihar community making lac bangles are their main source of income and making Gulaal Gota is a seasonal work . 

Lac Resin

Local artisans make Gulaal Gota by boiling the lac in water to make it flexible.

Lac is a resinous natural substance that is secreted by certain insects. It is an insect found on trees like Beri, Kusum Palasti etc.

Lac is brought from Chhattisgarh and Jharkhand and is also used to make lac bangles used in important occasions like weddings and other celebrations. 

How it is made…

Lac is heated to make it flexible to make desired shape. 

After shaping the lac, colour is added to it. At first red, yellow and green are added as other colours can be obtained through their combinations. 

After this process , artisans heat the small piece of lac dough on a coal fire (angithi) ,it is then blown into spherical shape with help of a blower called (phunki )which is usually  a copper pippet or small rod to blow up lac into round shaped hollow balls. 

The artist carefully uses his/her hands to give balls a perfect shape and swiftly throws them in water to cool and make the balls strong. 

The herbal scented gulaal is then carefully  filled by hands into the colourful gota balls before they are sealed. 

The gotas are sealed and wrapped in brightly coloured (Parchi) paper cover with help of arrarot glue to make them look attractive and pleasing to the eye.

Multiple hands are required as the entire process involves not just one person but more. 

These delicate balls filled with sweet smelling colours are further packed into attractive  boxes with either six or eight colourful tablets of Gulaal Gotas which are finally sent to be sold into markets or completing bulk orders for import and export. 

Eco – friendly and Safe 

Use of chemical colours on body can have serious drastic effects like allergies  it can even aggregate asthma as such eco friendly organic colours are in high demand while playing Holi and Gulaal Gota fits the bill. 

Gulaal Gota is eco friendly answer to the chemical, toxic colours used during Holi celebrations. 

The gota ball is light weight made of natural lac, and the traditional gulaal colour which is filled inside is herbal and organic which is made of arraroat powder and scented. 

Each Gulal Gota is a handcrafted product as no machine can replicate the finesse of this craft since one Gulaal Gota goes through multiple hands from start to finish. 

Light and Delicate 

Each Gulaal gota is made of 5 gms of lac and after packing gulaal it becomes 15 gms in weight which is very light, almost fragile to hold. 

It is so delicate that there is no risk of injury after a person is being bombarded with these coloured balls.

Gulaal Gota can be used as an alternative to coloured pichkaari or water balloons which can sometimes cause serious injury to a person while playing Holi. 

These balls are thrown at people on Holi, getting smashed to bits upon impact.

Revellers throw these balls on each other and get smeared with colours without hurting or injuring anyone. 

It is so delicate and fragile that around 30% of the production gets damaged while handling. 

Royal Holi Tradition

Originally made for Royal families in olden days Gulaal Gota is a popular Holi accessory practiced by the Royal families of Rajasthan for over four centuries. 

In Jaipur the king and other members of the Royal family would ride an elephant on occasion of Holi and toss the Gulaal Gota with their subjects along the way. 

This unique tradition is still being practiced by the Royal Family of Jaipur and they still order and play with Gulaal Gota during Holi festival. 

Braj Ki Holi 

Though sold throughout India, Holi celebrations in the ancient cities of Mathura and Vrindavan is incomplete without Gulaal Gota or Kumkuma as it is often known in the Indo – Gangetic belt. 

Kumkuma also finds mention in the Vaishnava Holi songs. 

Burst of colours

Gulaal Gota being eco friendly is also safe to play with, upon impact on the body the delicate lac balls split into a mirage of colours without causing harm to anyone. 

In other words Gulaal Gota is a safe and eco friendly product bringing the vibration of love and colours to people around. 

Gulaal Gota Now …… 

One box of 6 Six Gulaal Gota is sold for 200 INR as of 2024 ,which is costlier than water balloons. 

Available on online platforms like Amazon and Red Earth. com (although they are highly priced at 450 INR for a pack of six) Gulaal Gota has truly come a long way travelling from the bylanes of Jaipur to major metro cities of India, catching up with the demands of a modern society

Role of Women

Usually whole family of the artisan is engaged in making Gulaal Gota especially Women who start making it almost three months before the Holi festival in order to meet the demands during the peak festival season. 

Social  Media

Due to Reels and Vlogs a social media craze has picked up recently, and orders have been placed for several Indian metro cities (from Delhi to Bangalore) . 

Organisations like Rajasthan Studio is giving platform to local artisans to display their talents and co create art souvenir with the master artisans. 

Use 

Apart from the individuals ,groups , various societies and temples like Govind Devji temple ,Swami Narayan temple etc , Gulaal gota nowadays is in great demand in various events and  corporate parties.

It is now hugely popular in various Five Star Hotels and Resorts. 

Made especially for royalty centuries ago ,today Gulaal Gota is sold commercially and is a popular export item of Rajasthan. 

Uniqueness in Harmony 

It is it’s uniqueness  that people prefer it in place of cheap commercial products.

Since Gulaal Gota is not only eco friendly it also represents the intermingling of two cultures where in the Muslim community of Rajasthan actively participates in making Gulaal gota for a unique Hindu festival, keeping the spirit of brotherhood alive which represents India and it’s unique contribution to upkeep various cultural traditions. 

With time it has been recognized as a symbol and a living example of interfaith communal harmony that defines India. 

As artisan Mohd Shamsher says, “During Ramzan our faith guides us, but so does our dedication to our craft. We work tirelessly to ensure Holi brings joy to all ”.

Artisans 

Many artisans practicing this traditional craft are usually ( 7th) seventh generation craftsmen trying to keep the craft of their forefathers alive .

There are around 30,000 families of the Manihaar community that still practice this age old handicraft and keeps alive a unique tradition of packed herbal and colourful and scented Holi balls. 

35 years old Gulrukh Sultana is an ace gota artisan, she has received State award in 2009 and UNESCO award in 2013.

She has been instrumental in training people from various parts of the country and has been welcomed as guest faculty at Pearl Academy, IISD, JJ School of Arts, SNDT to name a few. 

Challenges 

Master artisan Avaaz Mohammad is a winner of Presidential award for upkeeping and promoting this handicraft. His whole family contributes into making Gulaal Gota.

He says that besides been a symbol of Hindu Muslim unity and bonding them together, sad part is that for an artist the sale from Gulaal Gota is not enough to sustain their livelihood. 

Therefore it is less attractive for young generation to learn the skill. 

Although artisans like Ahmed Khan, Mohd Shamsher, Amjad Khan, Miriyam Khan etc have been trying to sustain their cultural heritage, but many young people from the Manihaar community have opted for white collar jobs simply because of low income and influx of low grade, plastic infused lac products easily available in the markets. 

Efforts and promotions 

Although Gulaal gota is a Cottage industry it still needs help from organizations and government to sustain this craft and it’s growing demand in the modern world. 

Master craftsman  Mr.Avaaz Mohd was invited in the G- 20 Summit, New Delhi where his work was displayed and appreciated by foreign dignitaries. He has travelled to 26 countries of the world promoting his handicraft. 

Artisans of Gulaal Gota have also demanded GI (Geographical Index) tag for their products to help boost awareness of the product and to highlight it’s location. 

It helps original creators to safeguard their products against imitation. 

Conclusion

Gulaal Gota much like it’s exotic name has managed to fill people lives with colours for over four centuries and much like it’s unique past and cultural heritage I wish that the colours of Gulaal Gota colour people’s hearts today with love, respect and mutual understanding, much like what Indian culture represents Unity in Diversity and as they say. …. 

In search of my Roots……

          

                                Introduction 

                          It takes a village to raise a child 

Modern research has shown how grandparents play a positive role in a child’s life and my life bears testimony to it. I was fortunate enough to experience the love, wisdom and humour of my parents ,grandparents, great grandmother, friends, family and relatives. My grandmother (Ammajaan) especially had a profound impact on my life while growing up. 

Having been brought up in Lucknow and married in Delhi, I never felt home here, there was something I always felt was missing in the jigsaw of life  but a recent You Tube video changed my connection with Delhi forever. 

Ammajaan’s words voiced in my ears when I heard a name Jahaniye Jahangasht in the video reel that mentioned a shrine in Delhi. Ammajan had long back mentioned to me that this was a name common in both my Shajra’s (family tree) . 

Painting from Thomas Metcalfe’s Imperial Delhi 1844.

Armed with my phone (for navigation), the documents (to support my claims) and with passion for history I set off to discover my link to this ancient shrine. One compensatory off from work made the thought of exploring the shrine worthwhile and I took advantage of the opportunity at hand and hired my trusted automan to help me navigate this piece of history. 

Multani Dodha Gali 13 was till where three wheelers could go and the rest of the journey towards the shrine was to be done on foot. 

While walking I relied either on the grace of Google Maps or on strangers asking to help me find the, ‘Qila Qadam Sharif’, as they would ask me in return to my query . The entire area surrounding the shrine has come to be known as Nabi Kareem. 

The alleways and winding streets of Paharganj reminded me of any old Islamic cities of Cairo, Marrakech or Damascus, unlike them these streets were dark ,dirty and dingy . 

After a long exhausting walk I reached an open space ,a much needed relief from the unplanned urban landscape jungle . On the outside of the shrine one could see children freely playing traditional games with a turkey, hen and goats as their obedient audience. 

The three iron gates of the shrine were locked from inside, within a few minutes of reaching,  one door was unlocked giving me the honour and permission to step inside the sacred structure

Main entrance to the shrine 

Dargah Qadam Sharif 

Dargah Qadam Sharif in Paharganj houses a Mosque,Madarsa and a Shrine (Dargah).It is surrounded by a massive gated wall built by Feroz Shah Tughlaq although years of neglect has left only a few standing structures of this fortified wall.

Upon entering the sacred shrine I was greeted by warm and friendly Farid Bhai ( brother of the care taker or mutavalli  of the shrine )

I sought permission from him to take pictures and videos of the holy structure and felt sad and choked with emotion looking at the diapilated condition of these ancient structures as if they begged for repair ,having witnessed centuries of rise and fall of empires ,kings and their kingdoms.

Leaving behind this thought and with a child like enthusiasm I declared my link to the sacred place .

Jahaniye Jahan Gasht 

Syed Jalaluddin Hussain al -Bukhari Makhdoom (1308 -1383 ) better known as Jahaniyan Jahan Gasht  was born in Uch Bahawalpur district ,Punjab (undivided India ) ,he was a highly esteemed scholar, philanthropist and a revered Sufi saint of the Indian Sub -continent .

He travelled the world due to which his name was coined as Jahaniyan Jahan Gasht or world traveller . Jhan Jhaniya Mosque in Pandua (West Bengal ) India built in 16th century is said to be named in his honour. 

He was the spiritual guide to Firoz Shah Tughlaq ,who assigned him the task of bringing the sacred relic from Mecca to Delhi .This tedious journey of 5,089 kms (from India to Saudi Arabia of present times ) was undertaken by Jahananiye Jahangasht by walking ,accompanied by two brothers of Egyptian descent sent by Emperor Firoz Shah he carried the sacred relic out of respect and reverence upon his head.

Historical records claim that the Emperor received the entourage with pomp and grand festivities. 

Professor Ali Nadeem Rezavi ( Chairman and Co- ordinator ,CAS Department of History Aligarh Muslim University ),states that Jahananiye Jahangasht is probably the first Sufi to establish the practice of keeping of Alam (standard) in the Indian sub-continent .

Photo credit : Professor Ali Nadeem Rezavi (AMU) 

(I have written article’s regarding the sign and use of Alams in my blog )

Uch Sharif 

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Pages of history have the power to break borders and cross fences ,Jahaniye Jahan Gasht passed away at the age of 78 years and is buried in Uch Sharif (Delhi Sultanate) ,Bahawalpur ,Punjab (undivided India).  Qata tarikh ,giving the year of death of the saint  says 785 A.H or 1383 

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Uch Sharif (Pakistan ) is an ancient town famous for beautiful ruins and tombs ,it is  also known as the City of Saints.  Interestingly the 15th century ,beautifully decorated octagonal tomb of Bibi Jawindi ( great grand daughter of Jahaniye Jahangasht) has been considered as one of Five monuments that are on Tentative list of UNESCO’s World Heritage Site. 

Serendipity with the Sacred Relic 

Farid Bhai brought out the Sacred relic of Prophet’s footprint for me to seek blessing in a small humble steel box with the most exotic smelling itr ,this relic was wrapped in layered cloths ,covered from above in Green satin exquisitely worked in hand made zari work .

As a token of appreciation Farid bhai humbly gave me the bottle of rose  itr which had been carefully wrapped under the tender embrace of the footprint as a tabarruk (offering).

My eyes could not rest, gazing with awe and wonder at the prestigious relic out on display and bowed my head to offer homage, seek forgiveness and pray for guidance. 

Sultan Fateh Khan 

When this relic reached Delhi ,Firoz Shah Tughlaq’s son  Sultan Fateh Khan was in a battle and when he reached Delhi the emperor lovingly asked his son to pick anything he wanted from the royal treasury to which Fateh Khan chose the Holy relic amongst the valuables .

It was decided that whosoever died first ,the holy relic would be placed upon his grave and as fate would have it Fateh Khan died young and as per his wish the sacred foot of the Holy Prophet was enshrined over his grave and Firoz Shah Tughlaq added more structures around the grave.

URS (Fair) 

An unusual Urs takes place at the shrine unlike others according to the custodian of the shrine , he says the event does not commemorate the death anniversary of Sultan Fateh Khan who’s buried here rather the occasion is celebrated as Barah wafaat or Id -ul-Milad (Prophet’s birthday). 

The tabarruk or prasad (offering) distributed is also unusual  since generally it is a sugar based preparation, but at Qadam Sharif  it is different ,the ancient holy relic is brought out and washed with scented oils , perfumes and rose petals, this sacred drink is prepared over the grave of Fateh Khan wherein the custodians recite prayers and distribute it to devotees coming over to seek homage and blessings. 

This holy water used to be distributed in mud goblets or surahis for drinking and anointing by the devotees ,although much like the past the mud goblets have been replaced by plastic ones . 

Structures around Dargah Qadam Sharif 

According to historian Y. D. Sharma, the Emperor built a mosque and madarsa  (school) nearby and enclosed the tomb with a high battlement wall although the mosque and the madarsa are still running but unlike their previous selves. 

Splendid Suzani

INTRODUCTION

Suzani fabric originated in areas found along the Silk Road ,this region covers vast swathes of lands from China ,Turkey ,Europe and the Middle East

The open valleys and steppe farmlands of Central Asia is home to many nomadic communities and tribes from ancient times ,they live and move from place to place in portable houses called yurts. Their nomadic lifestyle gave birth to a unique style of embroidery technique called Suzani .

Suzani is a large hand embroidered textile panel which supported the nomadic lifestyle of Central Asian tribes and is still used to brighten interior spaces of the modern world.

WORD

The word Suzani comes from the Persian word suzan which means needle and suzandozi was needlework.

Suzanis are highly collectable ,valued for their sense of colour ,design and finess of their stitching .

USE

Suzani textile is primarily used within a yurt (Central Asian nomadic tent) as a protecting wrapping panel for textiles and bedding, as Prayer mats ,for seating (pieces of furniture is seldom found in yurts) as well as a wall decor to even a cradle cover ,Suzani has always been an intrinsic part of the rich tapestry of the yurt.

These colourful textiles brightens the interior space making it look warm ,cozy and inviting.

Photo credit : Rosemary sheel blogspot

Even today in Central Asia suzani textiles are used to decorate homes ,work places ,teahouses and public buildings and also used in important events of one’s life like holidays ,weddings and even funerals .

Suzani generally has a cotton or silk cotton base for it’s cotton or silk thread embroidery .

Four simple stitches are required to realise a wide variety of patterns ,they are 1.)chain stitch (tambour) 2.)couching (basma) 3.) chain stich (yurma )and 4.) slanting couching kanda khayol.

Chain stitch is done either with needle (nina) or handheld tambour hook (bigiz) creating a very fine stitch.

MOTIFS and DYES

The motifs of Suzani were inspired by the environment the women lived ,these textiles were their principle means of expression and thoughts and added colour to drab and harsh environment.

The patterns and motifs of a Suzani differ distinctly from region to region and have their roots in early religion and nomadic tradition.

Motifs found on Suzani textiles are inspired by nature and contain various auspicious motifs which represent deep symbolic meanings for happiness ,fertility and wealth.

Motifs include creepers of the Asian steppes ,leaves ,vines and flowers like lotus (ancient Buddhist symbol) , tulips (Ottoman flowers) carnelians, irises and water hycinths ,palmettes ,rosettes .

Sun ,stars and Moon disks ( Zoroastrian ) Botah ( Persian teardrop ),birds and fish (happiness), water vessels (purity) ,teapots (hospitality), tumars (protective amulets to keep out evil spirits ).

These traditional motifs were believed to provide Suzani with spiritual powers warding off evil forces and protect and strengthen it’s owners .

DYES

Sources from nature like roots,leaves ,bark and even insects are utilise to create a rich palette of colours like Indigo for blue imported from India ,madder for red ,saffron for yellow ,a mix of indigo and a yellow tree fungus for green ,iron oxide and pistachio nuts for black colour .

These dyes remain sturdy and long lasting compared to the new synthetic dyes of the present times .Red is the most prevelent colour.

TECHNIQUES

KALAMKASH

The pattern is drawn onto cotton or silk base fabric before being embroidered .These patterns are drawn on the fabric by a Kalamkash who is usually an older woman who is also a local designer /draughts woman .

Skills of a Kalamkash are also passed in the family ,they are trained to draw free hand as well as use a bowl or plate to imprint circular shapes .

The entire length of the cloth is cut into several strips mainly two panels which are seperated and given to two or more family members or group of friends who work on it together .

These loose panels are later joined and stitched loosely together to create a desired size Suzani. A large piece of Suzani embroidery can range from 180cm to 270cm or larger.

Made by groups of women rather than individual ,embroidering a Suzani provides opportunity to women and their children to work,gossip and share thoughts together and get away from mundane household work.

It’s a collective hardwork of the womenfolk and their aspirations for future which gives the textile a sense of community and shared history.

WEDDINGS

Suzani textiles have traditionally being created as beautiful hand embroidered dowry pieces that woman and their families lovingly created together for a bride’s day .

This hand embroidery is a labour intensive project which usually passes on from a mother to her daughter ,traditionally made by brides and their mothers as part of their wedding trousseau.

Wedding is a very important occasion in Central Asia and Suzani played an important item in a wedding that a young bride carries with her into her new home.

The space where wedding celebrations take place is covered with variety of embroidery and carpets including Suzani ,it is the main decoration of a newly weds room.

Underneath the ausipicious symbols of Suzani embroidery a bride is led to grooms house.

It is presented to the bride and groom on their wedding day ,signifying their union and representing merging together of two families.

Adorned with symbols of luck ,fertility ,health and long life this piece of embroidery becomes a cherished symbol of a young woman’s life .

TYPES

Throughout Central Asia individual regions developed their distinct design and each tribe had it’s Gol or crest with colours and motifs that differentiated them .

There are different types of Suzani embroidery techniques such as :

Bukhara Suzani :

Khodjent :

Lakai :

Nurata :

Samarkand :

Shakhrisabz :

Tashkent :

Ura Tube :

Photo credit : HALI

NIMSUZANI

Nim Suzani was possibly used as a scarf ,or wrapping gift ,keeping valuable possesions or as a cradle cover ,the names of smaller embroidery is given according to size and function of the pieces like Joinamaz ( prayer rug),Ruidjo (bridal bed cover ),Gauropush (cradle cover ),Sandalipush small square piece of embroidery ,Zaedevor (wall friezes ).

SOVIET ERA

The Soviet era and industrialisation that came with it put hand embroidery on hold ,machine embroidery became common and easier to make ,which resulted in mass production and gave rise to new techniques with new materials which created eclectic boho style of interiors .

WORLD OF INTERIORS

Suzani has caught fancy of many westerners who have graced their interiors with this remarkable piece of fabric ,turning them into fancy lamp holders to table cloths and used it in endless variety of imagination .

Doris Duke (1912 -1993 ) in her home Shangri La ,Hawaii (USA) has collected around 15 splendid Suzanis of Central Asia and displayed them in various ways in her private rooms scattered across the property.

Once regarded as the richest Woman on Earth, Duke’s property Shangri la is home to around 2500 objects from all over the Islamic world now functions as Doris Duke Centre for Islamic Art Hawaii (USA).

Photo credit :Pinterest

More recently Peacock Pavilions (Morocco) ,home and boutique hotel of Mariyam Montague has a bold red Suzani fabric covering one of it’s exotic walls while a purple, yellow Suzani is graciously draped as a bedcover .

Photo credit : Maryam Montague

HAND and MACHINE EMBROIDERY

Although hand embroidered labour intensive Suzani is still a prized possession of many Central Asian families having an extraordinary link to their heritage , it is also a much popular choice of fabric in the international market and prestigious auction houses like Christies, 1st Dibs etc fetching an antique Suzani for thousands of dollars .

Photo credit : Nazmiyal

Markets of the Middle east especially Turkish markets have mercilessly cut the traditional antique Suzani fabric to make way for exotic looking pouches, handbags , cushion covers, tapestry and even garments like coats etc.

Photo credit : Zazi

Machine made copies too have flooded the market making this traditional embroidery accessible to everyone .

Suzani inspired home furnishings to exotic ladies dress prints are easily available on online websites and in local markets.

Bokja designs (Lebanese based brand for upholstery, furnishings etc) has been famous for Suzani inspired furnishings in their catalogue.

POSTAGE STAMPS

In 2009 Uzbekistan released series of postage stamps honouring their rich heritage of Suzani embroidery.

KASHMIRI SOZANI (What’s in a name)

Sozni or Suzani embroidery is a popular handcrafted needle work technique from the Kashmir valley in North India. It is a style that is practiced in the region for 500 years.

Motifs are created in Satin stitch and are identical on both sides of the cloth.

This type of work/stitch is sometimes called, dorukha. Stylised flowers, geometrical design, paisley patterns form part of the Pashmina/Cashmere shawls and jackets.

MUSEUM’S and PRIVATE COLLECTIONS

David and Mandeep Housego shared private collection of Suzanis, rugs and jewelry in National crafts Museum (New Delhi) in February 2023.

MUSEUM

Russian State Museum of Oriental Art has a large collection of Central Asian Suzanis in it’s collection.

Photo credit : Metropolitan Museum of Art (MET )

Photo credit : Jewish Museum

CONCLUSION

My tryst with Suzani ended in 2017 when I received a beautiful Suzani embroidery panel from Susan Meller’s (New York based textile designer,collector and highly acclaimed author on textiles) private collection which she auctioned online.

A dear cousin bought on behalf of me and later gifted it to me.

This particular Suzani embroidery is from Tajikistan, it has stylised pepper motif along with snakes and circle tesstelations on a white and black background to ward off the evil eye.

It will forever remind me the pure and unconditional love we gather and earn throughout our lives.

In the Lands of Dastarkhwan

INTRODUCTION

The old soul in me distinctly remembers the yellow well laid out dastarkhwan or cloth spread on the floor for ladies to eat sumptuously cooked food after the annual Majlis (religious congregation )at my Phuphi’s (paternal aunt ) house in the old city of Lucknow .

On the well laid out dastarkhwan was a wide array of traditional Awadhi food like Korma ,biryani ,naan accompanied by a variety of assortments all neatly assembled in dishes of various shapes and sizes .

Women would gather together with their children seated next to one another sharing their meals and stories. Later in life I too would be following this tradition for the children’s majlis I would organise at home.

WORD

Dastarkhwan is a Persian and Turkish term which means , tablecloth or a cloth spread used for layout of food items which is spread on the ground ,floor or table.

USE

Dastarkhwan has long been a way of serving food items in Central Asia ,Middle East and parts of Asia. It is associated with the traditional space where food is eaten broadly to refer to entire meal setup. It maybe spread on the table ,on the floor of a house or in an open area .

The food placed on a dastarkhwan ranges from simple tea and bread (small meals for a family)to an elaborate cuisine ranging upto 10 course meal which can comprise of a welcome drink ,starters ,main course and desserts ,in simple words a grand feast.

Some of the delicacies on the dastarkhwan can be relished only in a traditional Muslim home and not in restaurants or eateries.

Scientific and Cultural Experience

There are certain logical and scientific reasons behind the art of eating cross legged on the floor, one been that eating while sitting eases in digestion while eating food with fingers stimulates the 5 sensory elements and helps in secretion of digestive juices in the stomach.

There are also dietry rules to be followed and Islamic scriptures outlines food items that are halal (permitted) and haraam (prohibited).

Large cultural significance is placed on the Dastarkhwan among different people and various traditions ,customs ,values and certain prohibitions surround the use of a Dastarkhwan.

Etiquettes of Eating and Dining

In Islamic culture dastarkhwan is used as a sanitary space for food as such there are several etiquettes and rules that have to be followed before ,during and after eating food .

Manners surrounding eating includes that :

1.) All must eat on the floor to ensure similarities between all classes, from slaves to the riches all must eat on the floor .

2.) Using right hand while eating and drinking and passing the dishes sitting on the right hand side .

3.) Accept meal by invitation.

4.) Wipe off the dishes ,lick fingers which ensures recieving all the nutrients along with Allah’s blessings .

5.) Share food and never waste food .

6.) Over eating should be avoided as it can cause health issues and laziness.

7.) Compliment tasty food and not criticize it .

8.) Praise Allah after eating and do miswak to avoid bad breadth coming from the mouth.

9.) Always keep drinking water covered and drink while sitting on the floor and finish the drink in three gulps .Do not drink in gold or silver vessels.

CULINARY TRADITIONS OF THE WORLD

INDIA

India is a land of diversity and it has vast culinary heritage. Food is meant to be a sensory experience as such cutlery is not being used to eat food in the traditional Indian dining culture.

People sit together on floor mats and share meals .

Saapadu is a centuries old traditional South Indian meal served on a banana leaf, it is eco friendly and is considered healthy for body, mind and soul.

Muslims in India prefer to eat traditionally on a dastarkhwan, a table cloth which has distinct patterns like floral prints complete with a couplet (sher) associated with the culinary world.

In North India ,especially Kashmir ,Delhi and Lucknow a yellow coloured floral print is used for dining whereas in South India especially Hyderabad a red coloured printed cloth is used as dining table cover. Both the table cloths have a culinary couplet or (sher) printed over them which further enhances the dining experience.

Muslim cuisine in India ranges from Mughlai,Awadhi ,Kashmiri ,Kutchi ,Hyderabadi ,Bengaluru and Bhatkali .

Utensils kept on the food spread are called by different names in different regions where they are cooked and served ,these utensils are designed to be used for a variety of purpose.

In early times there was no concept of a wash basin or sink and so the meals ended with guests washing their hands in beautifully made portable sink which were made in either copper ,brass or steel . They had a hollow base and were covered with a perforated filter disk so that food particles while washing would stay on the disk and above the disk cover grass was spread so that the water would not not splash outside .Besan (chickpea flour) powder was used instead of a soap to clean hands .

These portable sinks alongside jugs were used for washing hands in a communal gathering after a traditional meal .They are called by different names such as Tasht Nari (Kashmir), Silapchi (North India), Celumchi lota (Bohra Muslims).

Indian classical movie like Garam Hawa (1974) has one scene where dastarkhwan tradition is displayed in a dining scene ,other movies that includes dastarkhwan dining scene are Garam hawa (1974) ,Umrao jaan (1982) ,Pakeezah(1972),Junoon (1978) etc

Dining scene from the movie Garam Hawa (1974)

FOOD OF BLESSINGS

Dastarkhwan Imam e Hasan a.s (Kareem e Ahlul bayt )

Dastarkhwan of Imam Hasan a.s is considered a very important event in the Shia Muslim calendar .This dastarkhwan is organised in the month of Shaban .

Shia muslims in particular organise nazr for invoking blessings into their homes .This dastarkhwan is especially spread on a green coloured cloth .

Imam Hasan a.s is considered as Kareem e Ahlulbayt (The Generous One),it said that he daily organised a dastarkhwan for the poor and needy of Medina (Saudi Arabia), people from all over came to eat from this generous spread of food with blessing .

This tradition of dastarkhwan has continued in Medina till recently Sheikh Amiri (from an esteemed family of Medina )and his son had continued this unique traditional food spread until 2019 ,unfortunately after the Covid -19 the Saudi government forced this event to shut down .

This dastarkhwan used to take place in Bagh e Imam Hasan in Medina. It was an outdoor event which took place under the lush vegetation of palm trees .

Spread out for anyone after every Namaz or daily 5 time prayers everyday this was a very well planned and well executed event organised in Medina city.

My cousin Owais Gardezi along with his delegation of zaireens ( pilgrims) from India has had the honour of eating from this bountiful dastarkhwan .He organises independent tours to visit holy shrines in Iraq, Iran and Syria along with Hajj and Umrah tours.

Among various kinds of religious dastarkhwan is one which is observed to break fast on the day of Ashura (10th of Muharram) it is also known as faqa shikani.This food spread is simple devoid of any extravagance. .

Ramadan -e -dastarkhwan

Ramadan is the month of fasting ,Muslims around the world keep fasts throughout the day .Apart from not eating and drinking they are forbidden to be angry ,utter lies and be morally conscious , they break their fasts after sunset .

The break of their day long fast is known as Iftar and the food eaten Iftari .Every Muslim household prepare delicacies which are unique to their region and culture .

Eating iftari brings families together which is a tradition unique to every Muslim country and people , their food,utensils and dining cloth speak volumes of the culmination of different cultures over centuries.

IRAN

Sofreh ,the traditional Iranian table cloth available in various materials and patterns goes far beyond a piece of cloth spread for serving meals is an important element in Iran where celebration ,religious and mourning ceremonies take place ,it is also associated with table manners and etiquette .

People around sofreh begin meal with eating some salt and end meals with praying .Elders are given respect on a sofreh ,no one is allowed to lie down or even stretch their legs when the sofreh is spread .In short sofreh is manifestation of persian culture and beliefs like togetherness,family ties and hospitality .

There are different types of Sofreh that includes ,Sofreh Aqd for wedding cermony ,Sofreh Haft Seen ( Persian New year which falls on March 20 ), Sofreh in the Month of fasting or Ramadan , Sofreh spread on Yalda night ,which is the longest and darkest night of the year which falls on (21st December )every year ,Jashn e Mehrgan or sofreh of (harvest season) .

IN TERMS

In Bangalore (India) there is a diaspora of Persian community living ,either through marriage or migration .They occasionally organise sofra for niyaz (vow) or nazr (gift) where a variety of traditional Indo -Persian food is cooked and served.  Bohra Muslim community in India dines out of one platter called Thaal ,which can accomodate 8 people .It is elevated with a Tarakhti (stand)placed on a square piece of cloth called a safra which is laid out on the floor.

In Libya this term is used for a low tray or low table, where groups of people sit to eat meals together.

MIDDLE EAST

Just like their counter parts in India ,Iran and Africa people in Middle East too have a tradition of dining on the floor.This tradition has been practiced by Bedouins and various tribes inhabiting these lands .

They usually eat on a mat made from palm tree leaves which is found in abundance ,these palm mats are made either in oblong or round shape .Cone shaped palm covers are used to cover large food trays from insects and flies.

During family gatherings and functions people sit next to one another cross -legged around these palm leaf mats spread on a beautiful carpet .This mat ensures that the food is respected and the carpet is clean from food mess and wastage .

Sharing meals enhances dining experience and develops a feeling of togetherness and nearness with one another. It is a unique way to bond and create good happy memories and socialise with everyone .

It is only recently with the boom in petroleum industry and change from traditional lifestyles to modern way of life that eating habits and customs surrounding them have changed drastically in the Middle East .

CENTRAL ASIA

In Central Asia ,Ughur region in China and in parts of Iran there is a distinctive item of furniture called Tapchan .

A tapchan is a raised wooden divan that is used outdoors for relaxing ,it is first covered with a persian rug ,then covered with thin quilted blankets called kurpachas (made in silk,velvet or cotton) which are layered over ,leaving a square in the middle for a small table ,this small table is covered in embroidered cloth .This space is usually reserved for food ,tea and fruits .

Colourful cushions and bolsters are placed all around to make the seating more comfortable.A tapchan can accommodate at least 6 people for an exotic outdoor dining experience.

A well used tapchan takes shelter under a barn or a canopy until summers .Hot summers call for outdoors where families ,friends and guests are found sitting perched on a tapchan sharing meals together along with a wide variety of food .They relish food ,exchange notes,news and information with one another under the shade of a cherry tree or in the middle of an orchard .

One can find tapchan used outdoors in homes or as a traditional piece of furniture in restaurants across Iran and in Central Asia especially in Chaikhanas (tea cafes) which adds to the aesthetic beauty of the place and decor.

AFRICA

The continent of Africa has a diverse culinary heritage and way of life and amongst the vast dining tradition of it’s people one unique dining tradition of Ethiopia stands out.

The city of Harar (Ethiopia) has a special basket table made out of locally grown dried grass and palm leaves called Mesob. Mesob is used to store injera or local flatbread.

Mesob come in all sizes, small ones can be decorative or used to store household items while large mesob play the role of a dinner table or serving table. In many traditional Ethiopian homes people eat together and sit around this woven wicker on low -to -ground stools called barchumas.

CULINARY BOOKS

Ismati Dastarkhwan

Photo credit :Rekhta

Recipe books printed in undivided India have been written by writers who were mostly females one such book of Indian cooking which has been well acclaimed is the Ismati Dastarkhwan (pure dining )in Urdu .

It was published in 1938 (Delhi )by feminist ,writer,educator Amina Nazli .She collected recipes from affluent families and riyasat’s (princely states) and complied the recipes from women of Awadh.

It has served as a kitchen guide for new brides, the Indian diaspora and all those interested in cooking exotic recipes .Though out of print Ismati Dastarkhwan is available to read online on Rekhta website.

Dastarkhwan

In the vast galaxy of culinary books on Indian cuisine, I chose this title especially for the uniqueness of it’s name Dastarkhwan as this name evokes feeling of nostalgia and exotic smell of Indian cuisine and culinary heritage.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT ……..

Depleting local cultural traditions have robbed the dastarkhwan culture of it’s authentic self, although it is still struggling to survive having been kept alive by a handful of all those who have experienced love and warmth around it.

Colourful table cloths have been replaced by cheap plastic versions of the food spread ,they not only make the space look dull and ugly but somewhere the aesthetic’s behind serving and eating food also gets lost .

CONCLUSION

My grandmother (Ammajaan) always stressed that food should look presentable and pleasing to the eyes before eating , she is particularly remembered for hosting memorable family dining and get together’s as she always believed in the thought that, “the,most loved food to Allah is that which is touched by many hands (shared)”,Prophet Muhammed PBUH .

This tradition has been followed by my mother who has not only practiced it but also has immense faith in the countless blessings that comes with sharing of food .

Family dining together in Mustafabad during Muharram (1980’s)

In depth of a kohl eye

Photo credit : Pinterest

INTRODUCTION

Kohl (Kajal) is a popular eye care product widely used used as traditional cosmetic used since ancient times . It is a traditional powder like eyeliner and mascara which is mainly worn around the eyes to darken it in Asia, Africa and the Middle East .This black powder substance has been universally used by both men and women throughout history for thousand of years .

WORD and USE

“Eye is window to the soul “, (Sufi thought )

The word Kohl is an Arabic term , also called Kuul in the Horn of Africa,Kajal in South Asia and Surmeh in Persia ,Tiro in Yoruba ,Tozali and Kwalli in Hausa .In the Indian sub continent it is known by different names in various local languages and dailects.

In Ayurvedic medicine ,kohl is said to have healing properties for cleansing and rejuvinating the eyes and practitioners use it to make preventative treatment for eye infections .

For Muslims it is a prophetic tradition or Sunnah .

USE 

The use of kohl can traced back to 3500BC to ancient Egypt . Galena eye paint (kohl ) was widely used in Ancient Egypt ,used by nobility such as  Cleopatra ,the Pharaohs ,noblility as well as nomadic tribes like Tuareg ,Berbers and Bedouin,both genders have adorned this dark substance trusting it’s protective qualities.

Kohl powder is applied to the inner rim of the eye with a tiny stick attached to a cap of the container holding the kohl mixture ,the container is known as Makhalah in Arabic .

FACE TATTOO 

Muslim inhabitants of  Sahel and Sahara especially women apply kohl on their faces ,this form of kohl on the face originated in Arabian Peninsula and was introduced in the 7th century in North Africa 

Originally used to prevent eye ailments but also to protect from the evil eye, kohl is a universally used eye cosmetic that has been a cultural and artifact domain of women , especially older women who play a key role in it’s making and replenishing eyes .

OCCASSIONS

Kohl brightens the eyes of a new mother, her infant children , the circumcised ,brides and grooms .It is used in all happy and cheerful ocassions like weddings , Islamic festivals and by men during congregational (Jummah )prayers in mosques .

DANCE 

Traditional dance art forms of India prefer to use eyes along with body movements to convey the messages in their dance ,they prefer eye cosmetics like kohl to accentuate the eyes of the dancers thereby adding the beauty to the dancing movements .These Indian dance forms include Bharatnatyam , Kathak ,Kathakali,Kuchipudi ,Bhangra,Garba ,Chhau ,Bihu ,Mohiniyattam etc .

BEAUTY 

Kohl smughed smoky eyes reveal the  magic and secret of a woman’s soul ,those eyes reflect and enhaces beauty apart from being a medicine to cool eye sight.

MOVIES

Who can forget the weathered Arabian looks of actors from movies like Lawrence of Arabia (1962) to The Mummy  (1999),the male characters and their kohl dubbed eys brought depth to their on screen characters .

In Hollywood and Bollywood nowdays many actors,actresses and celebrities (both male and female ) prefer to use eye make up to enhance their looks for smokey, dramatic and subtle effects .

MEDICINE 

Throughout Africa, Asia and Middle East traditional kohl is a cultural ,cosmetic as well as a medicinal staple.

Kohl (Kajal) acts as an eye drop to treat eyes, protect and strengthen external aggressors ,cleans the eye of foreign particles .Kohl is a popular antiseptic used in desert climates where dust and sand can irritate eyes easily,it’s bold lines combat the intense glare of the sun and shields the eye from desert sun induced infections .

In communities in Africa kohl is said to cleanse the eye ,lengthen eyelashes ,protect eyes from sun’s rays ,it is supposed to keep flies at bay ,ward off evil eye ,particularly new born babies and dampen sun glare .It serves dual purpose from being a cosmetic as well as a medicine for the eyes .

Trachoma is also called granular conjunctivitis and is very common eye disease throughout North Africa and is spread by direct contact with affected person through contaminated towels and flies. Kohl powder is said to contain therapeutic properties and is considered a prevented medium against trachoma which leads to blindness if not treated .

RECIPE

There is no fixed recipe for kohl ,the ingredients vary by location ,time and between families and can include lead and lamp black or soot .

In India  traditional kajal  is prepared at home by burning lamp filled with mustard oil,castor oil or ghee (clarified butter )with ingredients like almonds or aloe vera which are used to burn using a clay lamp over a clean plate of bronze,copper that traps the fumes .The soot that collects on the plate maybe mixed with clarified butter or oil. In rural Bengal kajal is made from Monocha plant ,the leaf of Monocha is covered with oil and is kept above a burning mud lamp .

Hashmi Aswad kohl powder is famous and renowed in the Indian sub-continent ,it is a blend of herbs and ingredients selected for their medicinal properties.It acts a medicine for cataract eyes and protect and strengthen external aggression.It has antiseptic properties .

Available online on major Indian websites like Amazon and Flipkart ,Hashmi kajal is a must for those believing in old is gold.

In many Arabian countries carbon from burned frankincense and dates is mixed with oil or nuts 

Antimony (Ithmid ) is crushed ,grounded and mixed which is believed to have healing and protective power found in sacred text and prophetic tradition for brightening eyes ,cleansing and help grow eyelashes.

KOHL CONTAINERS

Photo credit : Ancient Madurai 

My quest for the unusual and rare has landed me in places that are full of exotic stories one such place was a souq in Oman the Matrah souq ,cosmetics have always been a female dominion but a men’s kohl holder was something I could’nt even fancy so invariably I bought a silver men’s kohl holder from a shop named aptly Aladdin’s cave.

Such kohl holders are also found in Zanzibar (Africa) which was once under Omani Sultanate.
Photo credit:Author

In Oman ,men actually wore bullet shaped kohl containers made in silver to emphasize their masculanity.The kohl containers for men are shaped like bullets as men were traditionally expected to wear weapons instead of adornments . Bayt al Zubair Museum in Muscat (Oman) has displayed this unique collection of men’s kohl holder in their galleries .

They often carry these kohl containers on their belts or in their headwraps ,this cosmetic eye paint accentuate their eyes .

TYPES and MATERIALS

Kohl been a versatile product that can also be stored in beautiful containers made into various shapes and sizes like teardrop shape ,mango design or fish shape ,they look beautiful as well as suitable for travelling and can be easily kept in pockets or purse while outdoors .

Kohl vial or (vessel to keep the kohl concoction) is a piece of art itself, called by different names in various cultures kohl pots can be made not only of silver but also copper, glass, malachite ,bone ,ivory , horn, wood, leather, gourd, reed, textiles and beads .

Left to Right :Berber wooden kohl holders ,beaded ,Sudanese ivory ,Egyptian glass and Yemeni silver 

Left to Right  Left :kohl pots in beaded gourd purchased in Yemen ,beaded pot from Oman, Right : cow horn,camel bone Khyber pakhtunwa Poto credit :Brid Beeler Collection 

MUSEUMS and PRIVATE COLLECTIONS

Many renowed Museum’s of the World have kept this unique cultural heritage aiming to preserve it for posterity .Kohl containers or viles have also caught fancy of many private collectors who have collected them out of passion for their beauty and aesthetics .

British Museum 

 

British Library (Palestine) Village woman’s ornamental kohl holder (mukholeh)made of red ,yellow and black striped Syrian silk satin atlas .

Science Museum 

Red leather Kohl container North Africa 1880-1910 ,Photo credit :Science Museum Group Collection .

Louvre Museum ,France 

Photo credit : Louvre Museum (France)

Pitt’s River Collection Online 

Left to right :Ivory ,leather ,brass coolection of kohl viles 

Photo credit : Pitt Rivers Virtual Collection

Discover Islamic Art Online 

 

Photo credit : MWNF 

Private collections in India and abroad have been instrumental in preserving this material heritage .

EVIL -EYE PROTECTION

In India little children especially new borns are put a black kohl in their eyes or as a mark on their faces or cheeks as a sign to protect them from evil eyes .

Some people prefer putting the black mark at the back of ears especially on young girls.

Sudanese grandmothers and midwives would apply kohl to a new born’s eyes seven days after birth to ensure that the eyes are beautiful , healthy and protected from malevolent forces .

In Sudan kohl stick/pin is considered as a protection against evil eye .It is supposed to have protective and talismanic qualities.

 In Darfur (Sudan) a  woman who gives birth it is usual for her to wear a murwal(kohl pin )with a double spiral head in her hair when ever she leaves her house.It is believed that the iron out of which it is carved drives and misleads away jinns and other supernatural forces.

PAINT IT BLACK :A biography of Kohl containers

Paint it Black : A biography of kohl containers was published in 2019 .It is a book written by Jolanda Bos who traces the history of kohl containers from early bronze age to present times .This book incorporates a catalogue of a unique collection of kohl containers kept in the Wearable Heritage Collection also providing detailed maps pin pointing where each container comes from.

KOHL NOW ……..

Kohls today are as diverse a mix then with many mix in minerals ,oxides ,carbonates as well as lead. Chemical kohl is a powdered sulfide such as galena or animonite mixed with various other inorganic as well as organic substance.

According to leading cosmetologists ,black iron oxide and pigments produced in kohl (kajal )may contain elevated levels of lead .Lead is a toxic heavy metal which can cause learning and behavioural problems in children if exposed for long time.

Food and Drug administration (FDA )in the United States of America (USA )has banned kohl as a colour additive ,it’s not approved as a cosmetic ,according to them prolonged application can cause excessive lead storage in the body which impacts the brain. The brain damage can lead to congnitive dysfunction and neurological disorders as such it is illegal to import into ,either sell or manufacture kohl in the USA although funnily American footplayers have been known to use it on gameday .

ALTERNATIVE

Recent polls suggests that companies like Maybelline ,Max factor ,Bourjois are popular when it comes to eye cosmetics .Such business have incorporated the word kohl into their products to represent colour variations rather than particular formations of the product ,these days eye cosmetics are either liquid, gel, wax or powder based. 

In the West charcoal is used ,plant oils and soot from various nuts, seeds and gum resin are often added to the charcoal powder. Idea of both is same .

Modern eye cosmetics are prepared in accordance with relevant heath standards. Although for decades there has been conflicting reports regarding kohl application to eyes, some against it’s application for various health concerns while some studies refute those claims.

Whatever maybe the reason one thing is for sure that our ancestors have never been wrong when it comes to health care and beauty. So called ,’grandma recipes’, are still used at homes and will never loose their charm and usefulness.

CONCLUSION 

As we usher into modern age ,cultural practices have begun to fade away from daily life and memories. Therefore it has become incredibly important to record these amazing aspects of material culture .

It is my sincere tribute to the people who have preserved these fading techniques and arts of our unique cultural heritage .

Maybe we don’t realise their worth now but later they can used as reference for man’s unique connection with nature and it’s bounty for beauty with a purpose ,because beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder….

Jawi Peranakan

“Culture is not made up but something that evolves which is human”.Edward .T.Hall

These words inject a new approach to a common word that we keep reading or hearing all the time. I’ve always believed in knowing a country by it’s culture , traditions and beliefs ,it’s like being introduced to a new friend and slowly discovering them ,one such quest led me to a rather extinct community of Southeast Asia (Jawi Peranakan),which has contributed a lot in its language , culture and cusine.

Jawi Peranakan is an ethnic group found primarily within the Malaysian state of Penang and in Singapore, both regions were part of historical Straits settlements ,where their culture and history is centred around.

INTRODUCTION

Human history is filled with cross cultural exchange of ideas ,traditions ,languages ,art and culture it’s important to remind ourselves that a society can only be strengthened and prosper when individuals have mutual respect and understanding for one another .

One such example of intermingling of cross culture is the Jawi Peranakan ,who mostly reside in the South Eastern countries of Malaysia and some parts of Singapore, intertwined within the rich tapestry of South East Asian culture.

Peranakan’s are multifaceted group of community such as Peranakan Arabs, Peranakan Chinese and Peranakan Indians .They are an ethnic group of people who settled in South East Asia and married local Malay/Indonesian women .

They settled ,retaining their cultural ,religious and social identities and adopting and mingling them with local traditions ,this unique amalgamation of cultures has given birth to sub ethnic groups like Jawi Peranakan ,Baba Nonya culture etc.

WORD

Jawi is an Arabic word to denote Southeast Asia , while Peranakan is a Malay word meaning local born or local descendants , (it refers to the elite , locally born Chinese )

Inter marriage with Malay communities created the Jawi Peranakan or Jawi Pekan culture.

When the Indian ,Arab ,Turkish and Persian migrants came here and married local Malay women they adopted the Pernakan culture as their own .

Muslim immigrants married Malay women and their children spoke the Malay language at home .

Jawi Peranakan families were found throughout Malaysia, especially Penang and Singapore.Penang used to be their largest settlement.

ELITE GROUP

They were an elite group within the British -Malay and colonial Singapore community in mid 19th century Malaysia.

JAWI PERNAKAN (NEWSPAPER)

In addition to their substantial wealth and social standing ,Jawi Peranakan are best remembered for setting the First Malay Newspaper,in Malaysia, Singapore , Indonesia and China (Jawi Pernakan).

Photo credit: British Library

History of the Malay press and Malay journalism in Singapore began in 1876 with the publication of the first Malay weekly newspaper called ,The Jawi Pernakan .

This newspaper was written in the Jawi Script ,aimed to provide its reader with latest news.

ARTS AND CULTURE

Boria is a folk performance unique to Penang .This theatre style reached Penang in the mid 19th century and is believed to be derived from Taziyeh culture of Persia (Iran) performed during the month of Muharram to commemorate the Martyr’s of Kerbala.

R.J.Wilkinson a Straits Civil Service Officer ,and a noted scholar of Malay studies,made a comparison between Boria of Madras and Penang, and established that the resemblance was only in name .

The show in Penang has evolved into totally different form.

Boria is performed for entertainment and each year different troups also change and can have a comical , political and satirical notion.

CUISINE

Jawi Peranakan cuisine is known by the Malays as ,Food for Feasting usually served only during celebrations and occassions such as weddings .

Jawi Perinakan cuisine drew upon Middle Eastern and Indian roots rich in spices,saffron and dried fruits combined with South Asian where fresh herbs,tamarind and edible roots predominate .

FEASTS OF PENANG

FEASTS OF PENANG is a Muslim culinary heritage book published in 2013, this book written by a Punjabi Muslim Dr.Wazir Jahan Karim is her labour of love and homage to the unique Jawi Peranakan heritage cusine of Penang (Malaysia).

Dr.Wazir runs Jawi House Cafe Gallery along with her son chef Nuril Karim in the UNESCO heritage designated George Town area of Penang. Jawi House was established by the Karim family of Punjabi Jawi ancestry dating back to 6 generations in George Town .Chef Nuril Karim firmly believes in local and sustainable sources of good Malay muslim cuisine with Middle eastern signature dish lemoni.

JAWI SCRIPT

A tombstone in Aceh (Indonesia) with Jawi inscription dated from 16th or 17th century . Photo credit :Wikipedia

Jawi Script is the writing system used for writing several languages of South East Asian origin such as Achenese ,Malay ,Minangkabau .

It is based on Arabic script consisting of all original 31 Arabic letters and 6 additional letters consisting to fit phonemes native to Malays and like Arabic script Jawi is written from right-to-left .

Jawi script is one of the 2 official scripts in Brunei and alternate script among Malay community in Indonesia and Thailand. Jawi is the official script of Unfederated Malay States .

DEMISE OF THE COMMUNITY

The Jawi Perinakan community has maintained a distinct identity which was captured in their architecture,clothing ,jewellery and cuisine .Culturally this community contributed a lot in enriching the Perinakan community already in George Town.

However there are now a few Jawi Perinakan families left in Singapore and Malaysia especially in Penang which used to be their largest settlement .

JAWI PERNAKAN MANSION

Jawi Peranakan Mansion is being owned and designed by investment banker turned heritage hotelier from Penang Chris Ong .

Acquired in 2012 in a dilapiated state Chris Ong carefully renovated and restored it’s former beauty artfully after 3 years of renovation .The restored Anglo- Indian Mansion consists of 8 mansion rooms and 6 family suites having an eclectic mix of 18th /19th century British architecture and Muslim design styles.

This building pays homage to the rich Jawi Peranakan culture of Penang and it’s inhabitants .

PERANAKAN MUSEUM

Peranakan Museum (Singapore ) opened to the public on 17th February 2023 after nearly 4 years of renovation work.

It explores the culture of Peranakan communities in South East Asia and posses one of the finest and most comprehensive public collection of Peranakan objects .

Penang Peranakan Masion

Situated in historic George Town ,Penang (Malaysia ),the Penang Peranakan Mansion is dedicated to Penang’s Peranakan Heritage .This mansion contains thousands of Peranakan artifacts ,antiques and collectables.

CONCLUSION

A culturally rich society displays a healthy amalgamation of ideas ,thoughts and traditions of people of various backgrounds .It is born as a result of centuries of exchange and influence of ideas between mankind as such it a collective responsibility of each one of us to learn ,preserve and cherish it .

Reflections ,Mapping Gaza

INTRODUCTION

Museum’s are windows to our past ,to cherish ,preserve and to learn ,inculcate and carry forward the cultural heritage left behind by our ancestors .One such visit to Islamic Art’s Museum in Kwala Lampur (Malaysia) changed my perspective on our cultural legacies .

Upon entering the majestic building ,on the ground floor was a solemn photo exhibition of  heritage lost forever in countries like Iraq, Syria ,Yemen ,Afghanistan etc .My eyes could not muster the courage to look at those shattering pieces of human destruction  and my heart raced towards a brief conversation I had with my cousin sister Zeba over the phone after 9/11 (2001),”Shahana “,she said , her voice in deep panic ” ,” Papa says ,the world order will change after this “.

Yes, true the world changed around us in a subtle way after that ,like so many countless unknown lives around the world especially in countries where America and it’s allies spread the aggression . Since then countless valuable lives, unique cultural heritage ,way of life ,food and clothing have been lost to senseless wars, invasion and aggressions .

MAPPING GAZA

Coming back to the end of 2023 ,a small strip of land bordering Mediterranean sea on one side and sharing borders with Egypt and Israel has gripped our attention,the world’s attention past more than 100days starting with  Israel’s brutal attack on the small enclave of Gaza (Palestine ) on October 7th 2023.

Suddenly Gaza has become our ,moral compass ,says Dr. Munther Issac (PhD,Oxford Centre for Mission Studies, Academic dean of Bethlehem Bible College in Palestine and Pastor of Evangelical Lutheran Church,Bethlehem) “if we don’t feel pain something is wrong within us” .

The cost of human life has been incomprehensible ,Palestine has lost some of it’s best ,vibrant minds in this brutal war with,professor’s ,teachers ,aspiring students ,artists, engineers, doctors , reporters and worst of all little children ,toddlers ,infant’s and babies have been lost forever in the rubble of a brutal genocide of Palestinian lives . In fact this war has been coined as the ,”War on Children” .

Children are our future ,they carry the torch of their forebears ,when they die our future dies and I felt it was important to pen down and document the lost heritage of Gaza (Palestine) since Palestine and it’s people have been oppressed for too long and I want to stand upright on the right side of history .

PALESTINE

Palestine in the past was a hub for commerce ,culture under Egyptian ,Greek ,Roman and Byzantine rule .Gaza strip is so close to the birthplace of three largest religions of the world that it has heritage structures spanning centuries. It is a region rich in culture and traditions .

History of Gaza spans 4,000 years during which it was ruled, destroyed and repopulated by various dynasties, empire and people.

The Israeli-Palestinian conflict began in 1948 when Israeli army displaced more than 700,0000 Palestinians from their homeland, It is considered as one of world’s continuous conflicts.

1954 Hague Convention convention agreed by both Palestinian and Israeli authorities was supposed to safeguard landmarks from the ravages of war.

Sadly the present Israeli aggression did not respect any treaty of the past and have displayed the most arrogant ,egoistic display of strength to the world .

UNESCO (United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organisation)

Palestinian territories have 4 four World Heritage Sites recognised by UNESCO , located in the Western Bank side of the besieged Palestinian enclave .

Three Gazan sites were in UNESCO’s World Heritage Tentative List.

Architectural site of Anthedon Harbour ( Blakhiyah )is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Gaza .It is an ancient seaport harbour city ,Gaza’s first known seaport operating from 800BC to 1100AD .However the site has been badly damaged .

St.Hilarion Monastery ,the only surviving structure in Tell Umm Amer is one of the oldest and largest known Christian monument located in Central Gaza .It was added to UNESCO’s Tentative list in 2012.”The ruins bear testimony to the emergence of Christianity in the region. “says UNESCO spokesperson.

Al Khader Monastery ,one of the oldest historical buildings in the Gaza strip.UNESCO has worked closely with partners to restore the monastery.

The future of the three Gazan sites recognised by UNESCO’s World Heritage Tentative List lies in jeopardy as the current aggression continues to devastate Gaza and it’s people ,thereby ruthlessly destroying the rich cultural tapestry of the city.

UNESCO has been deeply concerned about the adverse impact of the ongoing conflict on the cultural heritage in Palestine .

HERITAGE FOR PEACE

A recent survey by the group Heritage for Peace (a Spain based NGO which has a dedicated team of international volunteers) ,have presented a detailed report about the damage inflicted on Gaza’s architectural heritage sites .

Isber Sabire (President ,Heritage for Peace ) said about Gaza that , “it is a small area but with a lot of heritage “.

According to the report so far more than 104 sites in the Gaza Strip out of the 195 architectural heritage sites in Gaza city has been damaged beyond repair .

The report has classified Gazan Architectural Sites into different categories.

MOSQUES

1.) Omari Mosque ( one of the historical mosques of Palestine )

2.) Syed Hashim Mosque ,which includes the shrine of Prophet Mohammad’s grandfather Hashim bin Abd Manaf .

SHRINES and ZAWIYAS (Schools)

3.)Shrine of Al -Khadir in Deir al Balah city.

4.)The Ahmadia Zawaiya ,in old Gaza city.

5.) Al Kamiliyah School constructed in 1237 AD

MONASTERIES and CHURCHES

6.) Church of Saint Porphyrius -believed to be the 3rd oldest Church still working in the world founded in 425 C.E

7.)Great Byzantine Church in Jabaliya

8.)The Church of Saint Pervierios (Greek Orthodox )

PALACES

9. )Qasr Al -Basha ,(a 13th century Mamluk Fort ) an old fortress converted into architectural museum in Gaza city.

CEMETERIES

10.) 2,000 year old Roman Cemetary and Necropolis containing upto 80 tombs was discovered in Northern Gaza . It is within the vicinity of the Blakhiyah site (Anthedon of Palestine).

11.) Cemetary -Deir al -Balah dating back to the late Bronze age (1150-1200 BCE )

MARKETS ,KHANS and STABLES

12.) The Qaysariyah Market located in Daraj neighbourhood is Mamluk era souk (market)

13.) Khan Al -Amir Younus 789 AH ,(1387 CE ) located in the centre of Khan Yunis city .

14.) Al-Alami and Kasab asbala( stables )

FOUNTAINS

15.) Sabil Al-Rifaiyah

HAMMAM (Bath House)

16.) Hammam Al-Samra (1320 AD) located in Al-Zaytoun neighbourhood (old town Gaza city )

17.) Historic houses account for over half of it’s heritage with 186 houses which includes Al Saqqa House (1661) ,which was an used as a  cultural centre .

Palestinian Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities have been unable to carry full scale assessment of the destruction because of relentless bombardment ,day and night.

Around 29,000 bombs have been dropped on Gaza city destroying the civilian infrastructure beyond repair .

ICOMOS (International Council on Monuments and Sites)

ARCHIVES and MUSEUM

Palestinian branch of the ICOMOS ( International Council on Monuments and Sites) ,reports the complete destruction of the Central Archives of Gaza City, where thousands of historic documents were kept.

Rafah Museum Director Suhaila Shaheen reported that priceless items from coins ,precious stones ,copper plates and clothes have been damaged and lost .

HOSPITAL

Apart from priceless structures destroyed ,the oldest hospital building in Gaza city the Al-Ahli Baptist Hospital (1661) was bombed and targeted by Israeli snipers where innocent civilians were being treated and had sought shelter .

Geneva based human rights group Euro-Med Monitor, said that ,”Israel deliberately destroyed architecture and monuments in Gaza Strip ,”and has accused it of ,”explicitly targeting Palestinian Cultural Heritage”.

With all the death and destruction we have witnessed in past three months and dwindling of  hope with each passing day , I still have hope in my heart for Palestine because in the end …..Truth Has A Voice.

CONCLUSION

I have always decorated my articles with colourful and vibrant pictures to give my readers a taste of what they read ,because, “picture says a thousand words “, but I have refrained from sharing this time of the destruction in Gaza because I want Gaza to be remembered as a joyful ,vibrant city with loving and cultured citizens rather than a ghost town or a graveyard which it has been turned out to be by the Israeli offensive.

“We will return you to a homeland despite our miseries as free people chanting united ,We won’t be Silent we won’t Surrender No!no no no ………we’d sacrifice for you so you may live O’Palestine ” ,lyrics from a popular song Falastine Biladi ,sung by Kuwaiti singer Humood .

These words are hopes and aspirations of countless free and peace loving citizens of the world who wish to seek justice ,peace ,love and respect among People and Nations .

Hope 2024 can bring the shattered Pieces together and repair their aspirations with Peace .