Venice of the Middle East

INTRODUCTION

Imagine yourself in a beautiful piece of land in between a river with sound of birds perching on it’s banks ,whispers of gentle breeze brushing past the leaves of trees ,serene and calmness spread all around ,these magical words are a dream for any nature lover, a gentle soft soul who craves for a simple life out side of his/her bubble of city life .

This world is full of such amazing places ,if only our minds ,eyes and heart could see, sense and feel it .

Welcome to Iraq’s Garden of Eden ,unique wetlands in Southern Iraq where people known as Ma’dan (Arabs of the Marsh ) have lived for centuries .

Iraqi marshlands also known as Mesopotamian marshlands are the largest wetland eco system in the Middle East ,they cover South -western Iraq ,South- western Iran as well as parts of North Kuwait .These Mesopotamian marshlands historically cover over 20,000square kilometers of inter connected mudflats, lakes and wetlands .

GARDEN OF EDEN

Mesopotamia means ,the land between the rivers ,the two rivers are the Tigris and Euphrates, within the confluence lay vast marshlands with lakes ,channels ,river islands and ,forests

Biblical scholars regard the Marshes as the site of legendary Garden of Eden .Situated in Southern Iraq ,the marsh is located at the meeting point of the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers and their confluence ,the waterway is called Shatt al Arab .

Since 2016, Mesopotamian Marshes have been listed as UN Heritage Site .

The moist fertile delta where the two rivers meet is larger than Everglades, Florida (USA ) and roughly equal in area to Massachusetts .This unique eco system has been supporting a unique human civilization and culture for past 7000 years .

LAND OF THE MARSHES

The first literate societies emerged in Southern Mesopotamia which nurtured Sumerian culture and civilization ,who produced the first alphabet and earliest epics which is why it is often referred to as the Cradle of Civilisation .

Parts are permanent marsh ,others seasonal providing habitats for several Marsh Arab tribes and variety of plants and animal species . Marsh people up until 1950’s lived in isolation from rest of the world and could preserve their unique way of life .

MA’DAN TRIBES

Mesopotamian Marshlands are aquatic landscape historically inhabited by the Marsh Arabs also known as the Mad’an which is a collective word for various tribes and clans that live in the waterlogged area .

Ma’dan loosely means plains dwellers and commonly known as Marsh Arabs in English .

Majority of Ma’dan Arabs are Twelver Shia Muslims or Itna Ashari .Many families claim to be descendant of Prophet Muhammad and dye their Kuffiye green .

Ma’dan culture is largely influenced by the Beduoin culture of the desert ,only difference that it’s been adapted for life in the watery marshes .

OCCUPATION

These tribes make a living by fishing ,farming and breeding lifestocks.

The Marsh Arabs domesticate ,water buffalo which provides them with milk ,yoghurt, leather and dung for fuel.

USE OF REEDS

MARSH -CANOE

The Mashoof or Mashuf is a long narrow canoe used by Marsh Arabs ,which is used for fishing and for transportation. This Marsh Canoe is made of different materials like reeds ,papyrus and trees grown locally ,the Marsh Arabs use the Mashuf to gather giant reeds for house building .

Canoes laden with reeds ,men paddle home

HOUSES

Reeds grow everywhere in the marshes and is considered cheapest building material .The beautiful elaborated floating houses of the Marsh Arabs are made entirely of reeds harvested from open water . Arab Marsh lands cover 6,000sq miles of reedbeds ,lakes ,bulrushes ,canals and sedge .

Reed can be used for building houses ,boats ,crops ,writing implements ,paper as well as musical instruments etc .Many domestic necessaties such as beds, cots, baskets and canoe poles are woven from reeds .

Types of Reed Dwellings

Several types of Reed houses are used by the Marsh Arabs which are smaller and less dramatic ,these beautifully elaborated floating houses are made entirely of reeds harvested from open water of the Iraqi Marshlands .

Bayt is a single room dwelling used either as residences or storage ,Raba is maller and less dramatic ,Sariya is the smallest reed house used by the Marsh Arabs while Mudhif is a traditional guest house used for the tribes .

Reed houses last over 25 years .Floating houses made entirely of reeds can be built under 3 days depending upon the size of the structure .

These architectural wonders rest on small islands built with compacted mud and rushes .

Ma’dan live in secluded villages of elaborate reed houses throughout the Marshes ,which often can only be reached by boats ,or Mashuf (Marsh canoe )

Houses built on reed has advantage of being portable and can be easily disassembled ,moved onto higher grounds and rebuilt if the waters rise up in the Marshlands.

The Ma’dan villages are sometimes built directly on platforms or small islands built with compacted mud and rushes with alternate layers of reed mats or reed slits .

1974, The Marshes, near Nasiriya, Iraq Marsh Arab Village , Image Nik Wheeler/CORBIS

A number of small villages exist alongside the marshes ,each containing homes of either the Ma’dan or Beni Hasan most Marsh Arabs belong to the Shia community especially the Twelver or Itna Ashari .Till 1980’s half million Arabs lived in the Marshes .

MUDHIF (The Guest house )

A Mudhif is a type of a Reed House in the swamps of Southern Iraq. It is built using technique that dates back to the Sumerians almost 7,000 years old .

Mudhif architecture has roots in culture of Marsh Arabs .

This traditional building is entirely built from reeds and a special type of grass called Qasab which is a bamboo type of grass that can reach upto 7 1/2 metres or 25 feet tall .

In short Mudhif is a 30 foot high Community House made entirely of reeds ,this architectural wonder is built quick and fast without the use of nails, wood or glass .

DESIGN,USE and CONSTRUCTION

Mudhif (Guest House ) is entirely are made of giant Reeds, which are harvested ,sorted and collected from open water of the Iraqi Marshlands .

It’s design is traditional ,yet communal where the Sheikh leader or a family can decide on the number of pillars to be used in the Mudhif ,usually odd number of reed pillars are used in the construction and the direction of the entrance is always facing Makkah (Saudi Arabia).

The large burrel vaulted have citing sides and reed lattice panels for letting the sunlight and airflow into the dome shaped building thereby keeping temperatures bearable in hot humid summers .

USE

Made entirely of interlocking reed grass the Mudhif is a traditional Reed House made by Ma’dan people in the swaps of Southern Iraq which is used as a ,Political, Social ,Judicial and Religious Centre .

It serves as guest house for the ocassional traveller ,where no payment is accepted for lodging and meals of the visitors ,locals stay and spend time together and guests are offered traditional hospitality .

Series of dozen evenly shaped Cathedral like arches are tightly woven from reefs supporting a curved roof ,oriental carpets blanket the floor.

Mudhif is a pride of every tribe,and it’s barrel vaulted ceilings are a symbol of inheritence ,history and identity of their unique culture .

Furnishings in a Mudhif are sparse where the floors are covered with carpets and there is clay hearth for making coffee and baking bread waiting to be used for weary travellers and visitors .

In short ,Mudhif is a Public Hall where tribes gather together for community ,ceremonies (weddings ,funerals etc) and general meetings .

ECO – CONSTRUCTION

A Mudhif needs to be refurbished after 7 years and rebuilt completely every 15 years .Constructing a Mudhif is a a low cost ,economical and sustainable project .

There is a painkstaking hard work involved in the construction of a Mudhif ,reeds are plucked from the marshes and there are 12 stages of construction of the reed house .It takes time and effort from transport ,sorting ,weaving reeds , and from preparation to furnishing until the whole construction is ready to be used .

Depending upon the size ,it can take a week to 50 days to construct a Mudhif .

The Mudhif is heat insulated as well as biodegradable and recycled .Once the Mudhif has served their purpose it can be used as an animal feed or as fiber binder for mud cakes .

In short it is an Environment Friendly Construction built in harmony with nature.

CHRONICLES OF MARSH LANDS

Wilfred  Patrick Thesiger (1910-2003),a British military officer, explorer and travel writer  is probably the last western writer to have seen and lived amongst the Marsh Arabs from (1951-58) ,recording day to day life in various regions of the Marshlands .

Photo credit : Amazon India

He chronicled his experience in the book, The Marsh Arabs ,which was published in 1964 which later became a Classic .This book is available in online format as well .

ENVIRONMENTAL REFUGEES

Residential islands of the swamp-dwelling Madan in the Hor, the waste of reeds and water on the lower reaches of the Euphrates and Tigris, Iraq.

PARADISE LOST

Since the British led modernisation schemes of Iraq in the 1950’s, the Marsh Arab ,their habitat and fragile eco system has been greatly threatened and damaged .

During the 1990’s Saddam Hussain launched a vast punitive assault that burned and poisoned the reed beds .He built a system of locks ,dykes ,embankments and canals that turned wetlands into a dust bowl.

CLIMATE CHANGE and POLLUTION

Since early 1990’s constant draining of Marshlands with rampant construction of dams over the Tigris and Euphrates rivers ,warfare ,droughts,climate change and pollution have radically altered the environment of Marsh Arabs that in 1994 ,nearly 90 percent swamps in which the Marsh Arabs lived were destroyed ,which doomed the eco system and displaced many from the marshes ,UNHCR provided a case study of the displacement of Marsh Arabs and labelled it as an ,’Environmental Disaster ‘.

An estimated 250,000 Ma’dan people were killed or forced to flee the Marshes and were internally displaced making them refugees throughout Iraq and in neighboring Iran .Many endangered animal,fish and bird species were also deprived of their natural habitat .

RESTORATION

Marshlands of Iraq defined as the Garden of Eden ,bear traces of regions bitter history where the biodiversity of the region has been greatly damaged and come to brink of extinction.

EDEN AGAIN

In 2001 by  Dr.Azzam Alwash and his wife Suzie founded Eden Again an NGO that plans revival of the swamp marshlands .They work closely with the Iraqi Ministry of Water Resources and goal is to restore Iraqi Marshlands that have turned into Desert of more than 20,000 square kilometers.

Photo credit : Eden in Iraq

The Iraq Foundation sponsored the creation of the Eden Again project in 2003 ,this project continues as part of Nature Iraq (a separate environment Iraqi NGO and remains significance for it’s human ,environment and historical impact) .

NATURE IRAQ

Nature Iraq is an NGO run by an American -Iraqi hydraulic engineer who left life in California to improve ,study and provide financial support from USA,Canada,Japan and Italy for improvement and sustain Marsh Arab culture and community. It is accredited to UNEP (United Nations Environmental Programme ).

These Non-Governmental Organisations (NGO’s) along with other governmental schemes have played a key role in restoring the flyway of migratory birds ,support endangered species and sustain fisheries of the Persian Gulf .

They work together to prevent salt-water intrusion into Shatt al -Arab ,high soil salinity in Marshes and adjecent areas deprive Iraq of much needed agricultural land .

CONCLUSION

Despite all efforts the exotic lifestyle has gradually disappeared from the ancient Mesopotamian Marshes ,nevertheless the Marsh Arabs remain one of Iraq’s most underserved population struggling to obtain healthcare ,clean drinking water and adequate nutrition .

The Garden of Eden like the rest of the cultural world waits to rise again like a Pheonix

because……..

The Greater Evil….

Sunday morning I woke up to worst news possible ,news headlines flashed that previous night 14th April 2024  Iran had launched attack on Israeli territory in retaliation to bombing of it’s Diplomatic mission in Damascus (Syria ) on April 1 st 2024 killing 16 people and two of Iran’s top generals in the deadly strike . 

To the uninitiated bombing a diplomatic mission is equivalent to war waged on that country ,in this regard Israel openly defied International law and attacked Iranian souvereginty ,Iran has been quick to respond after Ramzan (holy month of fasting and prayers ).It issued a strong message prior to the retaliatory attack…..

Western powers (Britain ,France ,Germany and may European countries along with America )had been trying to instigate Iran and drag it into this Middle East conflict for a real long time . American western policies have starved this nation with International sanctions for decades ,a country punished by the west imposing ban to cripple it’s economy and break it politically ,economically and even regionally has since then  fought back against the odds and has   advanced itself in every field be it science ,technology or arts bringing out best  scientists,engineers and doctors  who are at par with international standards .

This ancient civilisation has been so rich in arts and traditions that Persian (Iran) handicrafts and cultural traditions  have been inspired throughout Central Asia ,the Indian Sub-continent ,South Asia and much of Middle East.

Karbala 

One reel from trustee of  Khwaja Ajmer Shrine (India ) a Sunni intellectual  has been circulating in social media where the individual talks about silence of the Arab world and that Iran been powerful not only in military strength but spiritually too .He goes on to say it is strong because ,”they have love for Imam Hussain “.

True ,this Shia  country and it’s citizens commemorate and learn lessons from the tragedy of Karbala right from their childhood .It is an important event in Islamic history  probably a dark chapter ,that clearly demarcates right between the wrong and the overcome of truth against false narrative .

The defeaning silence of the world on the genocide in Gaza (Palestine )and the upstart arrogance shown by American and Israeli allies shows us that those who have power has made them become corrupt and selfish that to safeguard their seats these leaders are willing to sacrifice their moral values,ethics and above all sense of humanity .

Iran has openly spoken against atrocities taking place in Gaza against women and children along with many Arab nations offering just lip service ……

American policies in Middle East 

As a school going kid in the 1980’s I often heard talks surrounding Iran-Iraq war around the dining table and Ammajan ( maternal grandmother) coining Shaitaan e Awwal (Greater Evil) for United States of America (USA).

I could’nt realise the gravity of those words until I witnessed it happening in my lifetime ,right from American intervention during the 1990’s and it’s establishment of military bases in the Gulf following the invasion of Iraq under Saddam Hussain’s rule.

American presence in the region has already added to the regional conflict and has had a profound boomerang impact  with the destruction of Iraq ,Afghanistan ,Syria ,Libya and now genocide in (Gaza )Palestine ,burning down the region’s unique cultural heritage  and depriving it’s people infact generations to overcome the damage already caused .

These conflicts gave birth to terrorist organisations like ISIS ,Daesh etc adding fuel to already burning state of affairs in the region ,Saddam Hussain and Osama bin Laden  were all once funded and supported  by American government.

War Rules 

Israel has openly defied International law or war rules  with having the support of it’s major ally America in it’s military offensive in Gaza ,it has targetted hospitals,schools,places of worship and even refugee camps ensuring maximum damage to infrastructure as well incessantly slaughtering of women and lives of innocent children since October 7th 2023, thereby giving collective punishment to  an entire population of which 80 percent consisted of small children. This will go down in history as the most coward act on civilian population of which children formed majority .

While Iran on other hand attacked only military installations especially the Negev air base from where the attack on it’s counsulate in Damascus was launched ,safeguarding loss to any civilian bloodshed along the way .
This military act clearly demonstrates that the Iranian regime of being ethically more grounded than the so called Western allies of Israel .

Save the Date 

Timing of Iranian attack on Israel ,Sunday 14th April 2024 ,ironically coincides with a historic date in history according to Islamic calender (5th Shawwal )which marks ,Battle of Trench ( Khybar) fought in 627 between Prophet Muhammad PBUH and the Arab tribes allied with the Jews, a trench was dug at the suggestion of Salman al Farsi (Persian ).On that day  Imam Ali faced off against a Jewish chief Amr ibn Abd Wud and Prophet Muhammad said ,”true faith has emerged against absolute disbelief “.

Greatest Military Display in Recent History 

Scott Ritter ( former Marine Corps Intelligence Officer  ,former UN inspector of Weapons ) in an online interview shared his update on the state of affairs coming after the first  ever direct attack of Iran  into the State of Israel as the ,”greatest  military display in recent history “.

The attack was launched 1,000km away from Israel and Iran along with Syria, Lebanon ,Yemen and Iraq sent a volley of drones and missilies simultaneously in a Three (3) layered missile attack overwhelming the Israeli Defence System hitting their military targets with exact precision.

“Beauty of this attack is that they (Iranians )did’nt used their best missiles” .Ritter added .

Joe Biden has already told Netanyahu that US won’t take part in counter strike ,though Israel has Iron Clad Support of the United States of America .

Crowds of Israeli settlers have been seen flooding the airports finding their way out of the conflict zone.

Role of the UN and Arabs 

United Nations failed to act as a buffer zone ,providing aid and relief to the defenseless Palestinian’s in form of a permanent ceasefire .It’s inability to function in the role it was built upon has failed our trust in any International organisation built to protect human rights .

Sadly the 56 Muslim countries of the world  with many surrounding Palestine and Israel failed to take collective and strong action against the utterly inhuman acts of aggression committed by Israel in it’s offensive in Gaza on the defenseless Palestinian population and will go down in history that no one except Iran , Lebanon and Syria came forward openly to challenge and speak against Israeli aggression in Palestine ,these Arab leaders did nothing concrete to stop the conflict from spreading further rather than offering only lip service .

Infact  Jordan’s role in intercepting the Persian missile on way to Israel clearly shows the rupture and lack of solidarity within the Muslim Ummah .

Gaza 

Palestinian’s in Gaza have been heard shouting slogans such as ,”For the blood of kids and women of Gaza “,”For the blood of Solemani “, these weary Gazans would have had a peaceful  14 th April night without having to deal Israeli drones hovering over their heads and threats of massacre .

It is interesting to note that America , a super power built on refugee mind bank and it’s population has had a hand in destroying those very countries from where that talent came from. .

Modern warfare 

History is full of wars waged for land ,power and money and this conflict is no different ,it is fought on ursurped land occupied by Zionist regime in Israel ,settling itself on defenseless Palestinian population since 1947 but one unique aspect of this modern age conflict has been that live videos ,images were streamed into our phones ,tablets and screens of missiles and drones sent by Iran into Israel brushing past Islam’s holiest sites located in two different countries Masjid Al Aqsa ,Jerusalem  (Palestinian territories ) and Imam Hussain a.s Shrine in  Karbala (Iraq) .

Being Human 

No educated ,peace loving ordinary citizen of the world would ever want bloodshed or war which results only in destruction of human lives and property and nothing else .

I recently learnt that being orphan does’nt necessarily means someone who lost their father ,rather someone who’s deprived of Ethics and Education ,this definition does makes sense because education without traces of moral ,ethical values is incomplete .It’s like a Police officer accepting bribe or a Judge accepting favors or influence over his/her  judgement .

Like wise political leaders have shown lesser mortals like us, how small and insignificant is their approach to achieve goals which costs innumerable innocent human lives .How poor and orphaned is their approach to sustain goodwill among the rich and the powerful.

Israel has proven itself as a Rouge State ,openly violating 45 UN resolutions and America using it’s veto power 43 times in support of Israel at the UN .Recent turn of events and genocide in Gaza has damaged and costed them both their reputation of being any sense ,the only democracy in the Middle East (Israel ) or Messiah of democracy (America ).

The dominos of Zionism is beginning to brake up and has been challenged by a Muslim country already burderned by sanctions and bans . It looks like story of the Rabbit and Tortoise been played before us in real time .

Writer in Me 

I am not a Political writer but one who deeply values and cherishes the inter mingling of different cultures and the diversity of the world ,but the unfavourable  circumstances developing in Middle East threatening lives and cultural heritage of the region has forced me to write ,chain my emotions and share it with people .

It  pained me to see a rich Palestinian heritage crushed under Israeli drones  and bulldozers and now another culturally rich country being threatened for destruction. and dragged into a regional conflict threatening peace ,security and geo politics of the region .

It would pain me a lifetime if I don’t address these thoughts and  just be a mere spectator in this senseless conflict taking place in our midst .I write and I write with a heavy heart because one day our generations would question us as to , Why do we only Rest in Peace ?and why don’t  we Live in Peace too ,it’s a question we should all ask ourselves and seek answer for it .

How far this escalating tension in Middle East  would take us ,how many more innocent lives would be lost and paralysed only time will tell.These unhealthy developments are a perfect recipe for a World War Three (3) taking shape with countries either backing and helping Israel or Iran, which would show that we might have grown and advanced in science and technology but morally we as humans are still corrupt and have’nt grown to be mature enough to Live and Let Other’s Live .

Light of the Lamp

INTRODUCTION

The month of reflection, prayer and fasting Ramzan is observed throughout the world, where Muslims observe fast and prayers from dawn to dusk.

With the genocide in Gaza ,famine in Yemen, war between Russia and Ukraine and the displacement of Rohingya’s from their homeland of Burma ,it has become more important for us to reflect upon the teachings of Prophet Muhammad pbuh to become a better human being ,to seek light in the sermons , in a world which has increasingly become dark with false narrative and lies.

Light is associated with truth or divine light,”the word of God is a lamp by night ,a light by day and a delight at all times ”.

Before electricity became normal for lighting spaces ,oils and fats were used as fuel to light up a space .

Praying  together in large places required lamps to brighten and light up the space especially public places where the faithful gathered in large numbers to pray especially during the holy month of Ramazan ,festivals and holidays.

Public buildings during 13th and 14th century Mamluk Sultanate period had a special oil lamp made for public and religious buildings ,a delicate glass lamp known as Mishkah (Mosque Lamp)

MAMLUK SULTANATE

Word Mamluk means owned and Mamluk’s were military caste of free slave soldiers or slave warriors of medival Islam that overthrew their masters ,defeated Mongols and the Crusaders and established a dynasty headed by a Sultan .

Mamluk Sultanate extended from Mamluk Egypt ,Levant and Hejaz from mid 13th -early 16th century.They ruled Egypt and Syria for around three centuries until Ottoman conquest of 1517.

Mamluk Art’s

Mamluk period is considered as a Glorious period, where the Sultan’s commissioned lavish archaelogical projects and encouraged the production of fine arts .

Mamluk decorative arts especially enamelled and gilded glass ,inlaid metal ,wood work and textiles were prized around the Mediterranian as well as in Europe .

                  GOLDEN AGE OF ISLAMIC GLASSWARE

Islamic enameled and gilded glassware was the most prized glassware ,produced exclusively during 13-14 th century in Ayyubid and Mamluk Egypt and Syria .This period is mentioned in history as the,” Golden Age of Islamic Glassware “.

Glass from muslim world especially Syria was highly prized across the world and Cairo (Egypt ),Aleppo ,Damascus ( Syria) were most important centres of glass production .

Mosque lamps on display at Sheikh Faisal Bin Qassim Al -Thani Museum near, Shahaniya ,Doha Qatar

Mamluk Glassware

Glassmakers combined glass blow techniques used during Roman times with new techniques achieved in enamelware and gliding .

Photo credit : Bayt Al-Fann

Mamluk enamel workers mastered a technique that would enable to fire enamels at same time .This process required great skill ,patience and experience .

 Mamluk glassware also had an influence on the Venitian glass industry .

MOSQUE LAMPS (Mishkah)

Mosque lamps known as Mishkah during Mamluk period are glass oil lamps which were used to light public buildings of the Islamic world in the Middle ages.

They were made of glass to protect lamp (misbah) inside from being blown out by the wind and to diffuse the light .

Made of  gilded enamelled glass often decorated with gliding using gold leaf the Mosque lamp (Mishkah) was considered to translate divine presence within the edifice .

WEALTHY PATRONS

Mosque lamps (Mishkah) were a key endowment from wealthy patrons like Sultans and elite  members of his court,they were either commissioned or gifted to the ruler by the patrons .Often a wealthy official would donate these lamps to a mosque or a shrine as an expression of charity and piety .

These exquisite beauties served architectular function as well as adding to the aesthetics of the interiors.

USE

The Mosque lamp( Mishkah) was used for Secular as well as Religious buildings ,the (Mishkah) commonly adored mosques , this type of Islamic glassware was also used to provide light  in a range of spaces like Mausoleums (tombs) ,Madrasa (schools) , Khanqas (hostels) ,Hospices (old age homes ) and Palaces .

Photo credit : Pinterest

Carboni says ,” a lighting device made for a devotional building in Islamic world such as a Mosque,Madarsa ,Mausoleum ,Khanqah “.

SHAPE and SIZE

General shape of a mosque lamp (Mishkah) was like a Flower Vase , with a flattened globular body and wide funnle shaped neck ,resting either on a flaring cone or a simple circular disk .

Photo credit : Smart history LtoR Calouste Gulbenkian Museum ,Freer Museum and Trustees of the British Museum

During Mamluk period various pious institutions founded by Sultans and Amirs brought demand in elaborate enamelled and gilded lamps to lighten public spaces .

Design of the lamps were almost identical with body ,handle and inner oil and wick holder .

Photo credit : Brooklyn Museum ,(Heritage Science)

SIZE

The clear bubbly hand blown glass ,tinge free with applied lugs ,enamelled and gilded were made of various sizes .

Small lamps measured 35 cm in height , whereas the Sultan’s or Emir’s commission were much larger in size with lamps measuring 38-42cm ,these large lamps were commissioned by the Sultan and members of his court for use in religious as well as public buildings while some were recieved as gifts to the treasury .

CEILING ( Presence of Divine Light )

These fragile vessels were suspended from ceiling by means of long chains attached to six regular holded projections on it’s sides or glass loops and suspended from rims were beaker like container .

These lamps hung from ceiling served visual clues to remind the worshipper of the  presence of God and His light everywhere .

Photo credit :Smarthistory

The Mishkah contained a  glass vessel usually a saucer or tube taper which held oil and a wick so that it would cast it’s gentle light over the congregration of believers in the mosque to perform the three obligatory prayers of evening , night and dawn .

Photo credit :Smarthistory

These oil lamps were universally suspended from the ceilings casting a shadow of fragile glass and colours inscribed and enamelled in the most rich colours thereby making the interiors look aesthetically pleasing as well as serving purpose of giving light .

GILT and ENAMEL paint

The Mishkah lamps were elboratedly decorated with paint (gilt and enamel ) ,coloured enamel made from powdered coloured glass in red ,blue,green ,white and gold adorned the surface vessel and the gilt paint was usually of gold leaf ,gliding was added in the final stage of decorating the enamel .

 

Photo credit : MWNF

TEXT, VERSE and MOTIFS

Perhaps the most important decoration of the Mishkah was the Arabic Script ,particularly Naksh ,Thuluth and Kufic scripts were favoured over a floral background ,the text often included a Quranic verse ,Sultan’s name as symbolic, or commemorating a social,historical event .

The beautiful text also included heraldic emblems ,recording donors as well as being purely decorative motifs .

Along it’s neck and body are Arabian script including verses from the Holy Qur’an ,name of the Sultan .

QURANIC VERSE

“The lamp enclosed in glass:the glass as it were a brilliant star”.

Throughout the Holy Quran concept of Light appears 152 times in 23 Surahs, in short it stands as a motif of light and knowledge of God .

Intricate decorations of Mamluk glassware can be seen in Miskah (Mosque lamps ) many carrying Quranic verse, the most favored verse used to decorate the surface of the glass lamp is the Light Verse (Surah 24-verse 35) ,

“Allah is the light ,the likeness of this light is as a wick holder ,wherein is light the light in a glass ,the glass as if it were a glittering star “,AYAT AL-NUR Qura’n (24:35)  describing the light of God as being made of crystal lit from olive oil that glows without being touched by fire and shining like a star .

Mosque lamp ,Mishkah on display at the Fitzwilliam Museum with Quranic inscription ,”God is the light of heaven and Earth .His light is like a niche in which is a lamp “,mid 14th century made in order from Emir Shaykhu (1349-1356).

MOTIFS DECORATIONS

Motifs include lotus flowers ,palmettes and interlocking motifs imitating plaited Kufic vertical strokes of Arabic letters to form intricate patterns .

Some lamps abandoned inscriptions entirely instead featuring arabesque patterns and lotus flowers .

BLAZONS (COAT OF ARMS )

Well known blazons are often of European origins but very few are aware that many Pre modern Islamic world had blazons which were used by many Islamic dynasties as a symbol of royalty and rank, like Nasrids (Spain), Mamluk (Egypt ,Syria ) ,Ayyubids (Iraq ,Palestine ,Yemen ) ,Seljuk (Iraq, Iran,Turkey ) dynasties  etc .

Photo credit :Calouste Gulbenkian Museum ,Lamp from Mosque of Sultan Hassan ,Egypt (1354-61),enamel -gilt glass.

Mamluk Sultans and Emirs personalised blazons which were considered to be important symbols of their status and distinctive culture feature of Mamluk ruling class.

There was limited set of images and symbols for their charges about 45 symbols that included cup, sword ,bow-arrow ,pen holder ,animals and epigraphic blazons with Arab script of heraldic repertoire .

Coat of Arms or Blazons displayed on the delicate glass lamps now displayed in various Museums across the world .

EUROPE AND MAMLUKS

Mamluk lamps were exported to Venice (Italy ,Europe )and were seen as prized and luxurious products ,the Mamluk Sultanate became Venice (Italy)main trading partners and together they shared a strong political and economic relations.

Photo credit : Victoria and Albert Museum ,clear colourless glass lamp with 4 molded handles 1550-1600,Italy (Venice)

Trade flourished between Mamluk Sultans and later their contemporaries with Europe that by 16the century products of the Islamic world could be found in almost every wealthy house in Europe .

Islamic products such as lamps and carpets found in Renaissance artworks held Christian themes and some were used to decorate European Christian Churches .

Mamluk glassware had influence on the Venitian glass industry and many mosque lamps important to Islamic faith were produced in Venice for religious purposes .

MUSEUM COLLECTIONS

Glass mosque lamps often with enamel decorations and gliding have survived in considerable numbers in present times ,infact ,59 lamps commissioned for Mamluk Sultan Barquq (a keen connoisseur of exquisite arts ) survive even to this day .

Photo credit : British Museum ,Mosque lamp Egypt( 1330)

Many of them have found homes in either Private collections (eg. Khalili collection ),in Auction houses ( Christies ,Michael Backman )or Museums giving testimony to the golden age of Islamic glassware and craftsmenship to the world .

List of Museums include The Metropolitan Museum of Art  ,Virtual Museum ,Walter Art Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum,National Museum of Scotland ,British Museum, Brooklyn Museum ,Ashmolean Museum ,Museum of Islamic Art Cairo,Doha and Kuala Lampur and many more.

Photo credit :Museum of Islamic Art ,Doha Qatar

DECLINE and RISE

By late 13th century to around 15th century these Mosque lamps were produced in large numbers in Cairo and Damascus .By early 15th century all production of Islamic enamelware and gilt glass had greatly declined .

Photo  credit : 1stDibs

Mamluk Mosque lamps were of particular interest in 19th century to collectors especially from Europe due to their exotic and luxurious appearance and major collections of gilded and enamel glassware were formed in the 19th century and these exotic lamps were so highly prized by European collectors that by 1880 very few remained in Cairo.

MAMLUK REVIVAL PERIOD

In the 19th century there was significant appreciation for Mamluk Arts in Europe and as such it is named as Mamluk Revival Period .It was an artistic style that originated in Europe (1878-1914) to meet needs of European tourist and collectors .

Original artefacts were collected and craftsmen used techniques such as inlaid metalwork or enamel ware to make modern interpretations which they applied to traditional or European inspired prototype such as furniture etc.

Photo credit :The Metropolitan Museum,New York (USA)

A large number of independent glassmakers made copies or interpretations of the original vessels .Most renowened artists from that period are Belgian born Phillip -Joseph Brocard (1831-1896) ,Austrian brothers Joset and Ludwig Lobmeyr and glass workers of Salviati factory at Murano ,Venice .

Mamluk revival enamelware mosque lamps in  Europe 19/20th century have survived the passage of time ,and works of glass craftsmen of this period are been displayed in various Art Museums ,Antiques centre and Museums around the world.

OTHER MEDIUM

Photo credit :L to R :Iznik Ceramic Lamp (Turkey )Metropolitan Museum of Art , Middle ,Oriental Art Auction ,Bronze with Cloisonne enamel 19th century China and Right ,Mamluk Marble plaque with a mosque lamp found at the Madarsa Bedeiriyya ,14th century now displayed in the Museum of Islamic Art ,Cairo (Egypt).

Mosque lamps ( Mishkah) style of hanging lamps have been inspired in various other mediums throughout Islamic history in ceramics ,stone, ,bronze ,marble ,tiles and textiles .

Photo credit : Aga Khan Museum ,Toronto (Canada ) Group of 18 tiles mihrab panel with mosque lamp in between ,Syria 1575 .  Right , Prayer rug with triple arch design and mosque lamp in centre ,(silk and wool )Turkey 1575-90 displayed at The Metropolitan Museum ,New York (USA )

This motif representing God’s divine light has adorned the most important part of Mosque,the  Qibla wall( direction where Muslims pray five times daily ) ,with calligraphy panels adoring it’s sides .

 Photo credit :Medium ,Tile panel from architectural niche ,Kashan (Iran) 14th century Metropolitan Museum of Art

REFERENCE

Any one interested in reading more about the Mosque Lamps can read the book, Symbol of Divine Light , by Nicholas Stone published in 2018. This work survey’s the history of Mosque lamp in different historical periods and the deep significance of light and lamp in Islamic culture and other traditions .

CONCLUSION

Photo credit : Wonderloot blogspot , Dining room at Peacock Pavilions Marrakech (Morocco)

The new version of Mosque lamps adoring a modern home and boutique hotel ( Peacock Pavilions ) run by a young American, Maryam Montague based in the historic city of Marrakech (Morocco)reminds us the fact that just like music , material culture doesn’t have boundaries.

We should honor and accept them with open arms and that’s humanity and this is what the month of fasting Ramzan teaches us, of learning, tolerance and acceptance as one says,

“Glow where ever you go and let the light of God reflect in the world around you ”.

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Playing Holi with Gulaal Gota

Introduction 

Holi the vibrant festival of Colours is celebrated across India. 

It marks the arrival of spring. Since it is associated with positivity, love and hope, I decided to write on something unique that brings, promotes and prospers love. 

Gulaal  Gota 

Holi festival is enjoyed and played across India using pichkaari, by throwing colours filled with balloons or drabbing one another with dry gulaal or water colours. 

In Jaipur (Rajasthan) Holi is played with a unique accessory called the Gulaal Gota, it is considered a well known weapon for playing a safe and vibrant Holi festival. 

The word Gulaal  means Colour and Gota means Balls, simply  Coloured Ball . 

Gulaal Gota is a small light weight  ball made of lac that is filled with dry gulaal and thrown at people during Holi. 

Who makes it 

It is a 400 year old craft made from Lac shells by Muslim craftsmen who have practiced this handicraft for generations. 

Manihaaroen ka Raasta 

Gulaal Gota can be found being practiced in Maniharoen ka Raasta  (locality in the old city of Jaipur ). 

The ancestors of Manihaars were shepherds and horse traders who came from Afghanistan and Arabian Peninsula.

They settled in Shahpura and Bagru ( a town near Jaipur )and learned lac making from Hindu lac makers called Lakhere. 

When the city of Jaipur was established in 1727 by Sawai Jai Singh, Manihaar craftsmen were relocated from the erstwhile capital of Jaipur city ,Amer and a dedicated lane at Tripolia bazaar was given to the Manihaar community to stay and practice their craft .

It was eventually named Manihaaroen ka Raasta. 

It is in this place that lac bangles, jewelry and Gulaal Gota are made and sold to tourists and local population who wish to keep a memory of the heritage of this ancient city. 

For Manihar community making lac bangles are their main source of income and making Gulaal Gota is a seasonal work . 

Lac Resin

Local artisans make Gulaal Gota by boiling the lac in water to make it flexible.

Lac is a resinous natural substance that is secreted by certain insects. It is an insect found on trees like Beri, Kusum Palasti etc.

Lac is brought from Chhattisgarh and Jharkhand and is also used to make lac bangles used in important occasions like weddings and other celebrations. 

How it is made…

Lac is heated to make it flexible to make desired shape. 

After shaping the lac, colour is added to it. At first red, yellow and green are added as other colours can be obtained through their combinations. 

After this process , artisans heat the small piece of lac dough on a coal fire (angithi) ,it is then blown into spherical shape with help of a blower called (phunki )which is usually  a copper pippet or small rod to blow up lac into round shaped hollow balls. 

The artist carefully uses his/her hands to give balls a perfect shape and swiftly throws them in water to cool and make the balls strong. 

The herbal scented gulaal is then carefully  filled by hands into the colourful gota balls before they are sealed. 

The gotas are sealed and wrapped in brightly coloured (Parchi) paper cover with help of arrarot glue to make them look attractive and pleasing to the eye.

Multiple hands are required as the entire process involves not just one person but more. 

These delicate balls filled with sweet smelling colours are further packed into attractive  boxes with either six or eight colourful tablets of Gulaal Gotas which are finally sent to be sold into markets or completing bulk orders for import and export. 

Eco – friendly and Safe 

Use of chemical colours on body can have serious drastic effects like allergies  it can even aggregate asthma as such eco friendly organic colours are in high demand while playing Holi and Gulaal Gota fits the bill. 

Gulaal Gota is eco friendly answer to the chemical, toxic colours used during Holi celebrations. 

The gota ball is light weight made of natural lac, and the traditional gulaal colour which is filled inside is herbal and organic which is made of arraroat powder and scented. 

Each Gulal Gota is a handcrafted product as no machine can replicate the finesse of this craft since one Gulaal Gota goes through multiple hands from start to finish. 

Light and Delicate 

Each Gulaal gota is made of 5 gms of lac and after packing gulaal it becomes 15 gms in weight which is very light, almost fragile to hold. 

It is so delicate that there is no risk of injury after a person is being bombarded with these coloured balls.

Gulaal Gota can be used as an alternative to coloured pichkaari or water balloons which can sometimes cause serious injury to a person while playing Holi. 

These balls are thrown at people on Holi, getting smashed to bits upon impact.

Revellers throw these balls on each other and get smeared with colours without hurting or injuring anyone. 

It is so delicate and fragile that around 30% of the production gets damaged while handling. 

Royal Holi Tradition

Originally made for Royal families in olden days Gulaal Gota is a popular Holi accessory practiced by the Royal families of Rajasthan for over four centuries. 

In Jaipur the king and other members of the Royal family would ride an elephant on occasion of Holi and toss the Gulaal Gota with their subjects along the way. 

This unique tradition is still being practiced by the Royal Family of Jaipur and they still order and play with Gulaal Gota during Holi festival. 

Braj Ki Holi 

Though sold throughout India, Holi celebrations in the ancient cities of Mathura and Vrindavan is incomplete without Gulaal Gota or Kumkuma as it is often known in the Indo – Gangetic belt. 

Kumkuma also finds mention in the Vaishnava Holi songs. 

Burst of colours

Gulaal Gota being eco friendly is also safe to play with, upon impact on the body the delicate lac balls split into a mirage of colours without causing harm to anyone. 

In other words Gulaal Gota is a safe and eco friendly product bringing the vibration of love and colours to people around. 

Gulaal Gota Now …… 

One box of 6 Six Gulaal Gota is sold for 200 INR as of 2024 ,which is costlier than water balloons. 

Available on online platforms like Amazon and Red Earth. com (although they are highly priced at 450 INR for a pack of six) Gulaal Gota has truly come a long way travelling from the bylanes of Jaipur to major metro cities of India, catching up with the demands of a modern society

Role of Women

Usually whole family of the artisan is engaged in making Gulaal Gota especially Women who start making it almost three months before the Holi festival in order to meet the demands during the peak festival season. 

Social  Media

Due to Reels and Vlogs a social media craze has picked up recently, and orders have been placed for several Indian metro cities (from Delhi to Bangalore) . 

Organisations like Rajasthan Studio is giving platform to local artisans to display their talents and co create art souvenir with the master artisans. 

Use 

Apart from the individuals ,groups , various societies and temples like Govind Devji temple ,Swami Narayan temple etc , Gulaal gota nowadays is in great demand in various events and  corporate parties.

It is now hugely popular in various Five Star Hotels and Resorts. 

Made especially for royalty centuries ago ,today Gulaal Gota is sold commercially and is a popular export item of Rajasthan. 

Uniqueness in Harmony 

It is it’s uniqueness  that people prefer it in place of cheap commercial products.

Since Gulaal Gota is not only eco friendly it also represents the intermingling of two cultures where in the Muslim community of Rajasthan actively participates in making Gulaal gota for a unique Hindu festival, keeping the spirit of brotherhood alive which represents India and it’s unique contribution to upkeep various cultural traditions. 

With time it has been recognized as a symbol and a living example of interfaith communal harmony that defines India. 

As artisan Mohd Shamsher says, “During Ramzan our faith guides us, but so does our dedication to our craft. We work tirelessly to ensure Holi brings joy to all ”.

Artisans 

Many artisans practicing this traditional craft are usually ( 7th) seventh generation craftsmen trying to keep the craft of their forefathers alive .

There are around 30,000 families of the Manihaar community that still practice this age old handicraft and keeps alive a unique tradition of packed herbal and colourful and scented Holi balls. 

35 years old Gulrukh Sultana is an ace gota artisan, she has received State award in 2009 and UNESCO award in 2013.

She has been instrumental in training people from various parts of the country and has been welcomed as guest faculty at Pearl Academy, IISD, JJ School of Arts, SNDT to name a few. 

Challenges 

Master artisan Avaaz Mohammad is a winner of Presidential award for upkeeping and promoting this handicraft. His whole family contributes into making Gulaal Gota.

He says that besides been a symbol of Hindu Muslim unity and bonding them together, sad part is that for an artist the sale from Gulaal Gota is not enough to sustain their livelihood. 

Therefore it is less attractive for young generation to learn the skill. 

Although artisans like Ahmed Khan, Mohd Shamsher, Amjad Khan, Miriyam Khan etc have been trying to sustain their cultural heritage, but many young people from the Manihaar community have opted for white collar jobs simply because of low income and influx of low grade, plastic infused lac products easily available in the markets. 

Efforts and promotions 

Although Gulaal gota is a Cottage industry it still needs help from organizations and government to sustain this craft and it’s growing demand in the modern world. 

Master craftsman  Mr.Avaaz Mohd was invited in the G- 20 Summit, New Delhi where his work was displayed and appreciated by foreign dignitaries. He has travelled to 26 countries of the world promoting his handicraft. 

Artisans of Gulaal Gota have also demanded GI (Geographical Index) tag for their products to help boost awareness of the product and to highlight it’s location. 

It helps original creators to safeguard their products against imitation. 

Conclusion

Gulaal Gota much like it’s exotic name has managed to fill people lives with colours for over four centuries and much like it’s unique past and cultural heritage I wish that the colours of Gulaal Gota colour people’s hearts today with love, respect and mutual understanding, much like what Indian culture represents Unity in Diversity and as they say. …. 

In search of my Roots……

          

                                Introduction 

                          It takes a village to raise a child 

Modern research has shown how grandparents play a positive role in a child’s life and my life bears testimony to it. I was fortunate enough to experience the love, wisdom and humour of my parents ,grandparents, great grandmother, friends, family and relatives. My grandmother (Ammajaan) especially had a profound impact on my life while growing up. 

Having been brought up in Lucknow and married in Delhi, I never felt home here, there was something I always felt was missing in the jigsaw of life  but a recent You Tube video changed my connection with Delhi forever. 

Ammajaan’s words voiced in my ears when I heard a name Jahaniye Jahangasht in the video reel that mentioned a shrine in Delhi. Ammajan had long back mentioned to me that this was a name common in both my Shajra’s (family tree) . 

Painting from Thomas Metcalfe’s Imperial Delhi 1844.

Armed with my phone (for navigation), the documents (to support my claims) and with passion for history I set off to discover my link to this ancient shrine. One compensatory off from work made the thought of exploring the shrine worthwhile and I took advantage of the opportunity at hand and hired my trusted automan to help me navigate this piece of history. 

Multani Dodha Gali 13 was till where three wheelers could go and the rest of the journey towards the shrine was to be done on foot. 

While walking I relied either on the grace of Google Maps or on strangers asking to help me find the, ‘Qila Qadam Sharif’, as they would ask me in return to my query . The entire area surrounding the shrine has come to be known as Nabi Kareem. 

The alleways and winding streets of Paharganj reminded me of any old Islamic cities of Cairo, Marrakech or Damascus, unlike them these streets were dark ,dirty and dingy . 

After a long exhausting walk I reached an open space ,a much needed relief from the unplanned urban landscape jungle . On the outside of the shrine one could see children freely playing traditional games with a turkey, hen and goats as their obedient audience. 

The three iron gates of the shrine were locked from inside, within a few minutes of reaching,  one door was unlocked giving me the honour and permission to step inside the sacred structure

Main entrance to the shrine 

Dargah Qadam Sharif 

Dargah Qadam Sharif in Paharganj houses a Mosque,Madarsa and a Shrine (Dargah).It is surrounded by a massive gated wall built by Feroz Shah Tughlaq although years of neglect has left only a few standing structures of this fortified wall.

Upon entering the sacred shrine I was greeted by warm and friendly Farid Bhai ( brother of the care taker or mutavalli  of the shrine )

I sought permission from him to take pictures and videos of the holy structure and felt sad and choked with emotion looking at the diapilated condition of these ancient structures as if they begged for repair ,having witnessed centuries of rise and fall of empires ,kings and their kingdoms.

Leaving behind this thought and with a child like enthusiasm I declared my link to the sacred place .

Jahaniye Jahan Gasht 

Syed Jalaluddin Hussain al -Bukhari Makhdoom (1308 -1383 ) better known as Jahaniyan Jahan Gasht  was born in Uch Bahawalpur district ,Punjab (undivided India ) ,he was a highly esteemed scholar, philanthropist and a revered Sufi saint of the Indian Sub -continent .

He travelled the world due to which his name was coined as Jahaniyan Jahan Gasht or world traveller . Jhan Jhaniya Mosque in Pandua (West Bengal ) India built in 16th century is said to be named in his honour. 

He was the spiritual guide to Firoz Shah Tughlaq ,who assigned him the task of bringing the sacred relic from Mecca to Delhi .This tedious journey of 5,089 kms (from India to Saudi Arabia of present times ) was undertaken by Jahananiye Jahangasht by walking ,accompanied by two brothers of Egyptian descent sent by Emperor Firoz Shah he carried the sacred relic out of respect and reverence upon his head.

Historical records claim that the Emperor received the entourage with pomp and grand festivities. 

Professor Ali Nadeem Rezavi ( Chairman and Co- ordinator ,CAS Department of History Aligarh Muslim University ),states that Jahananiye Jahangasht is probably the first Sufi to establish the practice of keeping of Alam (standard) in the Indian sub-continent .

Photo credit : Professor Ali Nadeem Rezavi (AMU) 

(I have written article’s regarding the sign and use of Alams in my blog )

Uch Sharif 

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Pages of history have the power to break borders and cross fences ,Jahaniye Jahan Gasht passed away at the age of 78 years and is buried in Uch Sharif (Delhi Sultanate) ,Bahawalpur ,Punjab (undivided India).  Qata tarikh ,giving the year of death of the saint  says 785 A.H or 1383 

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Uch Sharif (Pakistan ) is an ancient town famous for beautiful ruins and tombs ,it is  also known as the City of Saints.  Interestingly the 15th century ,beautifully decorated octagonal tomb of Bibi Jawindi ( great grand daughter of Jahaniye Jahangasht) has been considered as one of Five monuments that are on Tentative list of UNESCO’s World Heritage Site. 

Serendipity with the Sacred Relic 

Farid Bhai brought out the Sacred relic of Prophet’s footprint for me to seek blessing in a small humble steel box with the most exotic smelling itr ,this relic was wrapped in layered cloths ,covered from above in Green satin exquisitely worked in hand made zari work .

As a token of appreciation Farid bhai humbly gave me the bottle of rose  itr which had been carefully wrapped under the tender embrace of the footprint as a tabarruk (offering).

My eyes could not rest, gazing with awe and wonder at the prestigious relic out on display and bowed my head to offer homage, seek forgiveness and pray for guidance. 

Sultan Fateh Khan 

When this relic reached Delhi ,Firoz Shah Tughlaq’s son  Sultan Fateh Khan was in a battle and when he reached Delhi the emperor lovingly asked his son to pick anything he wanted from the royal treasury to which Fateh Khan chose the Holy relic amongst the valuables .

It was decided that whosoever died first ,the holy relic would be placed upon his grave and as fate would have it Fateh Khan died young and as per his wish the sacred foot of the Holy Prophet was enshrined over his grave and Firoz Shah Tughlaq added more structures around the grave.

URS (Fair) 

An unusual Urs takes place at the shrine unlike others according to the custodian of the shrine , he says the event does not commemorate the death anniversary of Sultan Fateh Khan who’s buried here rather the occasion is celebrated as Barah wafaat or Id -ul-Milad (Prophet’s birthday). 

The tabarruk or prasad (offering) distributed is also unusual  since generally it is a sugar based preparation, but at Qadam Sharif  it is different ,the ancient holy relic is brought out and washed with scented oils , perfumes and rose petals, this sacred drink is prepared over the grave of Fateh Khan wherein the custodians recite prayers and distribute it to devotees coming over to seek homage and blessings. 

This holy water used to be distributed in mud goblets or surahis for drinking and anointing by the devotees ,although much like the past the mud goblets have been replaced by plastic ones . 

Structures around Dargah Qadam Sharif 

According to historian Y. D. Sharma, the Emperor built a mosque and madarsa  (school) nearby and enclosed the tomb with a high battlement wall although the mosque and the madarsa are still running but unlike their previous selves. 

Splendid Suzani

INTRODUCTION

Suzani fabric originated in areas found along the Silk Road ,this region covers vast swathes of lands from China ,Turkey ,Europe and the Middle East

The open valleys and steppe farmlands of Central Asia is home to many nomadic communities and tribes from ancient times ,they live and move from place to place in portable houses called yurts. Their nomadic lifestyle gave birth to a unique style of embroidery technique called Suzani .

Suzani is a large hand embroidered textile panel which supported the nomadic lifestyle of Central Asian tribes and is still used to brighten interior spaces of the modern world.

WORD

The word Suzani comes from the Persian word suzan which means needle and suzandozi was needlework.

Suzanis are highly collectable ,valued for their sense of colour ,design and finess of their stitching .

USE

Suzani textile is primarily used within a yurt (Central Asian nomadic tent) as a protecting wrapping panel for textiles and bedding, as Prayer mats ,for seating (pieces of furniture is seldom found in yurts) as well as a wall decor to even a cradle cover ,Suzani has always been an intrinsic part of the rich tapestry of the yurt.

These colourful textiles brightens the interior space making it look warm ,cozy and inviting.

Photo credit : Rosemary sheel blogspot

Even today in Central Asia suzani textiles are used to decorate homes ,work places ,teahouses and public buildings and also used in important events of one’s life like holidays ,weddings and even funerals .

Suzani generally has a cotton or silk cotton base for it’s cotton or silk thread embroidery .

Four simple stitches are required to realise a wide variety of patterns ,they are 1.)chain stitch (tambour) 2.)couching (basma) 3.) chain stich (yurma )and 4.) slanting couching kanda khayol.

Chain stitch is done either with needle (nina) or handheld tambour hook (bigiz) creating a very fine stitch.

MOTIFS and DYES

The motifs of Suzani were inspired by the environment the women lived ,these textiles were their principle means of expression and thoughts and added colour to drab and harsh environment.

The patterns and motifs of a Suzani differ distinctly from region to region and have their roots in early religion and nomadic tradition.

Motifs found on Suzani textiles are inspired by nature and contain various auspicious motifs which represent deep symbolic meanings for happiness ,fertility and wealth.

Motifs include creepers of the Asian steppes ,leaves ,vines and flowers like lotus (ancient Buddhist symbol) , tulips (Ottoman flowers) carnelians, irises and water hycinths ,palmettes ,rosettes .

Sun ,stars and Moon disks ( Zoroastrian ) Botah ( Persian teardrop ),birds and fish (happiness), water vessels (purity) ,teapots (hospitality), tumars (protective amulets to keep out evil spirits ).

These traditional motifs were believed to provide Suzani with spiritual powers warding off evil forces and protect and strengthen it’s owners .

DYES

Sources from nature like roots,leaves ,bark and even insects are utilise to create a rich palette of colours like Indigo for blue imported from India ,madder for red ,saffron for yellow ,a mix of indigo and a yellow tree fungus for green ,iron oxide and pistachio nuts for black colour .

These dyes remain sturdy and long lasting compared to the new synthetic dyes of the present times .Red is the most prevelent colour.

TECHNIQUES

KALAMKASH

The pattern is drawn onto cotton or silk base fabric before being embroidered .These patterns are drawn on the fabric by a Kalamkash who is usually an older woman who is also a local designer /draughts woman .

Skills of a Kalamkash are also passed in the family ,they are trained to draw free hand as well as use a bowl or plate to imprint circular shapes .

The entire length of the cloth is cut into several strips mainly two panels which are seperated and given to two or more family members or group of friends who work on it together .

These loose panels are later joined and stitched loosely together to create a desired size Suzani. A large piece of Suzani embroidery can range from 180cm to 270cm or larger.

Made by groups of women rather than individual ,embroidering a Suzani provides opportunity to women and their children to work,gossip and share thoughts together and get away from mundane household work.

It’s a collective hardwork of the womenfolk and their aspirations for future which gives the textile a sense of community and shared history.

WEDDINGS

Suzani textiles have traditionally being created as beautiful hand embroidered dowry pieces that woman and their families lovingly created together for a bride’s day .

This hand embroidery is a labour intensive project which usually passes on from a mother to her daughter ,traditionally made by brides and their mothers as part of their wedding trousseau.

Wedding is a very important occasion in Central Asia and Suzani played an important item in a wedding that a young bride carries with her into her new home.

The space where wedding celebrations take place is covered with variety of embroidery and carpets including Suzani ,it is the main decoration of a newly weds room.

Underneath the ausipicious symbols of Suzani embroidery a bride is led to grooms house.

It is presented to the bride and groom on their wedding day ,signifying their union and representing merging together of two families.

Adorned with symbols of luck ,fertility ,health and long life this piece of embroidery becomes a cherished symbol of a young woman’s life .

TYPES

Throughout Central Asia individual regions developed their distinct design and each tribe had it’s Gol or crest with colours and motifs that differentiated them .

There are different types of Suzani embroidery techniques such as :

Bukhara Suzani :

Khodjent :

Lakai :

Nurata :

Samarkand :

Shakhrisabz :

Tashkent :

Ura Tube :

Photo credit : HALI

NIMSUZANI

Nim Suzani was possibly used as a scarf ,or wrapping gift ,keeping valuable possesions or as a cradle cover ,the names of smaller embroidery is given according to size and function of the pieces like Joinamaz ( prayer rug),Ruidjo (bridal bed cover ),Gauropush (cradle cover ),Sandalipush small square piece of embroidery ,Zaedevor (wall friezes ).

SOVIET ERA

The Soviet era and industrialisation that came with it put hand embroidery on hold ,machine embroidery became common and easier to make ,which resulted in mass production and gave rise to new techniques with new materials which created eclectic boho style of interiors .

WORLD OF INTERIORS

Suzani has caught fancy of many westerners who have graced their interiors with this remarkable piece of fabric ,turning them into fancy lamp holders to table cloths and used it in endless variety of imagination .

Doris Duke (1912 -1993 ) in her home Shangri La ,Hawaii (USA) has collected around 15 splendid Suzanis of Central Asia and displayed them in various ways in her private rooms scattered across the property.

Once regarded as the richest Woman on Earth, Duke’s property Shangri la is home to around 2500 objects from all over the Islamic world now functions as Doris Duke Centre for Islamic Art Hawaii (USA).

Photo credit :Pinterest

More recently Peacock Pavilions (Morocco) ,home and boutique hotel of Mariyam Montague has a bold red Suzani fabric covering one of it’s exotic walls while a purple, yellow Suzani is graciously draped as a bedcover .

Photo credit : Maryam Montague

HAND and MACHINE EMBROIDERY

Although hand embroidered labour intensive Suzani is still a prized possession of many Central Asian families having an extraordinary link to their heritage , it is also a much popular choice of fabric in the international market and prestigious auction houses like Christies, 1st Dibs etc fetching an antique Suzani for thousands of dollars .

Photo credit : Nazmiyal

Markets of the Middle east especially Turkish markets have mercilessly cut the traditional antique Suzani fabric to make way for exotic looking pouches, handbags , cushion covers, tapestry and even garments like coats etc.

Photo credit : Zazi

Machine made copies too have flooded the market making this traditional embroidery accessible to everyone .

Suzani inspired home furnishings to exotic ladies dress prints are easily available on online websites and in local markets.

Bokja designs (Lebanese based brand for upholstery, furnishings etc) has been famous for Suzani inspired furnishings in their catalogue.

POSTAGE STAMPS

In 2009 Uzbekistan released series of postage stamps honouring their rich heritage of Suzani embroidery.

KASHMIRI SOZANI (What’s in a name)

Sozni or Suzani embroidery is a popular handcrafted needle work technique from the Kashmir valley in North India. It is a style that is practiced in the region for 500 years.

Motifs are created in Satin stitch and are identical on both sides of the cloth.

This type of work/stitch is sometimes called, dorukha. Stylised flowers, geometrical design, paisley patterns form part of the Pashmina/Cashmere shawls and jackets.

MUSEUM’S and PRIVATE COLLECTIONS

David and Mandeep Housego shared private collection of Suzanis, rugs and jewelry in National crafts Museum (New Delhi) in February 2023.

MUSEUM

Russian State Museum of Oriental Art has a large collection of Central Asian Suzanis in it’s collection.

Photo credit : Metropolitan Museum of Art (MET )

Photo credit : Jewish Museum

CONCLUSION

My tryst with Suzani ended in 2017 when I received a beautiful Suzani embroidery panel from Susan Meller’s (New York based textile designer,collector and highly acclaimed author on textiles) private collection which she auctioned online.

A dear cousin bought on behalf of me and later gifted it to me.

This particular Suzani embroidery is from Tajikistan, it has stylised pepper motif along with snakes and circle tesstelations on a white and black background to ward off the evil eye.

It will forever remind me the pure and unconditional love we gather and earn throughout our lives.

In the Lands of Dastarkhwan

INTRODUCTION

The old soul in me distinctly remembers the yellow well laid out dastarkhwan or cloth spread on the floor for ladies to eat sumptuously cooked food after the annual Majlis (religious congregation )at my Phuphi’s (paternal aunt ) house in the old city of Lucknow .

On the well laid out dastarkhwan was a wide array of traditional Awadhi food like Korma ,biryani ,naan accompanied by a variety of assortments all neatly assembled in dishes of various shapes and sizes .

Women would gather together with their children seated next to one another sharing their meals and stories. Later in life I too would be following this tradition for the children’s majlis I would organise at home.

WORD

Dastarkhwan is a Persian and Turkish term which means , tablecloth or a cloth spread used for layout of food items which is spread on the ground ,floor or table.

USE

Dastarkhwan has long been a way of serving food items in Central Asia ,Middle East and parts of Asia. It is associated with the traditional space where food is eaten broadly to refer to entire meal setup. It maybe spread on the table ,on the floor of a house or in an open area .

The food placed on a dastarkhwan ranges from simple tea and bread (small meals for a family)to an elaborate cuisine ranging upto 10 course meal which can comprise of a welcome drink ,starters ,main course and desserts ,in simple words a grand feast.

Some of the delicacies on the dastarkhwan can be relished only in a traditional Muslim home and not in restaurants or eateries.

Scientific and Cultural Experience

There are certain logical and scientific reasons behind the art of eating cross legged on the floor, one been that eating while sitting eases in digestion while eating food with fingers stimulates the 5 sensory elements and helps in secretion of digestive juices in the stomach.

There are also dietry rules to be followed and Islamic scriptures outlines food items that are halal (permitted) and haraam (prohibited).

Large cultural significance is placed on the Dastarkhwan among different people and various traditions ,customs ,values and certain prohibitions surround the use of a Dastarkhwan.

Etiquettes of Eating and Dining

In Islamic culture dastarkhwan is used as a sanitary space for food as such there are several etiquettes and rules that have to be followed before ,during and after eating food .

Manners surrounding eating includes that :

1.) All must eat on the floor to ensure similarities between all classes, from slaves to the riches all must eat on the floor .

2.) Using right hand while eating and drinking and passing the dishes sitting on the right hand side .

3.) Accept meal by invitation.

4.) Wipe off the dishes ,lick fingers which ensures recieving all the nutrients along with Allah’s blessings .

5.) Share food and never waste food .

6.) Over eating should be avoided as it can cause health issues and laziness.

7.) Compliment tasty food and not criticize it .

8.) Praise Allah after eating and do miswak to avoid bad breadth coming from the mouth.

9.) Always keep drinking water covered and drink while sitting on the floor and finish the drink in three gulps .Do not drink in gold or silver vessels.

CULINARY TRADITIONS OF THE WORLD

INDIA

India is a land of diversity and it has vast culinary heritage. Food is meant to be a sensory experience as such cutlery is not being used to eat food in the traditional Indian dining culture.

People sit together on floor mats and share meals .

Saapadu is a centuries old traditional South Indian meal served on a banana leaf, it is eco friendly and is considered healthy for body, mind and soul.

Muslims in India prefer to eat traditionally on a dastarkhwan, a table cloth which has distinct patterns like floral prints complete with a couplet (sher) associated with the culinary world.

In North India ,especially Kashmir ,Delhi and Lucknow a yellow coloured floral print is used for dining whereas in South India especially Hyderabad a red coloured printed cloth is used as dining table cover. Both the table cloths have a culinary couplet or (sher) printed over them which further enhances the dining experience.

Muslim cuisine in India ranges from Mughlai,Awadhi ,Kashmiri ,Kutchi ,Hyderabadi ,Bengaluru and Bhatkali .

Utensils kept on the food spread are called by different names in different regions where they are cooked and served ,these utensils are designed to be used for a variety of purpose.

In early times there was no concept of a wash basin or sink and so the meals ended with guests washing their hands in beautifully made portable sink which were made in either copper ,brass or steel . They had a hollow base and were covered with a perforated filter disk so that food particles while washing would stay on the disk and above the disk cover grass was spread so that the water would not not splash outside .Besan (chickpea flour) powder was used instead of a soap to clean hands .

These portable sinks alongside jugs were used for washing hands in a communal gathering after a traditional meal .They are called by different names such as Tasht Nari (Kashmir), Silapchi (North India), Celumchi lota (Bohra Muslims).

Indian classical movie like Garam Hawa (1974) has one scene where dastarkhwan tradition is displayed in a dining scene ,other movies that includes dastarkhwan dining scene are Garam hawa (1974) ,Umrao jaan (1982) ,Pakeezah(1972),Junoon (1978) etc

Dining scene from the movie Garam Hawa (1974)

FOOD OF BLESSINGS

Dastarkhwan Imam e Hasan a.s (Kareem e Ahlul bayt )

Dastarkhwan of Imam Hasan a.s is considered a very important event in the Shia Muslim calendar .This dastarkhwan is organised in the month of Shaban .

Shia muslims in particular organise nazr for invoking blessings into their homes .This dastarkhwan is especially spread on a green coloured cloth .

Imam Hasan a.s is considered as Kareem e Ahlulbayt (The Generous One),it said that he daily organised a dastarkhwan for the poor and needy of Medina (Saudi Arabia), people from all over came to eat from this generous spread of food with blessing .

This tradition of dastarkhwan has continued in Medina till recently Sheikh Amiri (from an esteemed family of Medina )and his son had continued this unique traditional food spread until 2019 ,unfortunately after the Covid -19 the Saudi government forced this event to shut down .

This dastarkhwan used to take place in Bagh e Imam Hasan in Medina. It was an outdoor event which took place under the lush vegetation of palm trees .

Spread out for anyone after every Namaz or daily 5 time prayers everyday this was a very well planned and well executed event organised in Medina city.

My cousin Owais Gardezi along with his delegation of zaireens ( pilgrims) from India has had the honour of eating from this bountiful dastarkhwan .He organises independent tours to visit holy shrines in Iraq, Iran and Syria along with Hajj and Umrah tours.

Among various kinds of religious dastarkhwan is one which is observed to break fast on the day of Ashura (10th of Muharram) it is also known as faqa shikani.This food spread is simple devoid of any extravagance. .

Ramadan -e -dastarkhwan

Ramadan is the month of fasting ,Muslims around the world keep fasts throughout the day .Apart from not eating and drinking they are forbidden to be angry ,utter lies and be morally conscious , they break their fasts after sunset .

The break of their day long fast is known as Iftar and the food eaten Iftari .Every Muslim household prepare delicacies which are unique to their region and culture .

Eating iftari brings families together which is a tradition unique to every Muslim country and people , their food,utensils and dining cloth speak volumes of the culmination of different cultures over centuries.

IRAN

Sofreh ,the traditional Iranian table cloth available in various materials and patterns goes far beyond a piece of cloth spread for serving meals is an important element in Iran where celebration ,religious and mourning ceremonies take place ,it is also associated with table manners and etiquette .

People around sofreh begin meal with eating some salt and end meals with praying .Elders are given respect on a sofreh ,no one is allowed to lie down or even stretch their legs when the sofreh is spread .In short sofreh is manifestation of persian culture and beliefs like togetherness,family ties and hospitality .

There are different types of Sofreh that includes ,Sofreh Aqd for wedding cermony ,Sofreh Haft Seen ( Persian New year which falls on March 20 ), Sofreh in the Month of fasting or Ramadan , Sofreh spread on Yalda night ,which is the longest and darkest night of the year which falls on (21st December )every year ,Jashn e Mehrgan or sofreh of (harvest season) .

IN TERMS

In Bangalore (India) there is a diaspora of Persian community living ,either through marriage or migration .They occasionally organise sofra for niyaz (vow) or nazr (gift) where a variety of traditional Indo -Persian food is cooked and served.  Bohra Muslim community in India dines out of one platter called Thaal ,which can accomodate 8 people .It is elevated with a Tarakhti (stand)placed on a square piece of cloth called a safra which is laid out on the floor.

In Libya this term is used for a low tray or low table, where groups of people sit to eat meals together.

MIDDLE EAST

Just like their counter parts in India ,Iran and Africa people in Middle East too have a tradition of dining on the floor.This tradition has been practiced by Bedouins and various tribes inhabiting these lands .

They usually eat on a mat made from palm tree leaves which is found in abundance ,these palm mats are made either in oblong or round shape .Cone shaped palm covers are used to cover large food trays from insects and flies.

During family gatherings and functions people sit next to one another cross -legged around these palm leaf mats spread on a beautiful carpet .This mat ensures that the food is respected and the carpet is clean from food mess and wastage .

Sharing meals enhances dining experience and develops a feeling of togetherness and nearness with one another. It is a unique way to bond and create good happy memories and socialise with everyone .

It is only recently with the boom in petroleum industry and change from traditional lifestyles to modern way of life that eating habits and customs surrounding them have changed drastically in the Middle East .

CENTRAL ASIA

In Central Asia ,Ughur region in China and in parts of Iran there is a distinctive item of furniture called Tapchan .

A tapchan is a raised wooden divan that is used outdoors for relaxing ,it is first covered with a persian rug ,then covered with thin quilted blankets called kurpachas (made in silk,velvet or cotton) which are layered over ,leaving a square in the middle for a small table ,this small table is covered in embroidered cloth .This space is usually reserved for food ,tea and fruits .

Colourful cushions and bolsters are placed all around to make the seating more comfortable.A tapchan can accommodate at least 6 people for an exotic outdoor dining experience.

A well used tapchan takes shelter under a barn or a canopy until summers .Hot summers call for outdoors where families ,friends and guests are found sitting perched on a tapchan sharing meals together along with a wide variety of food .They relish food ,exchange notes,news and information with one another under the shade of a cherry tree or in the middle of an orchard .

One can find tapchan used outdoors in homes or as a traditional piece of furniture in restaurants across Iran and in Central Asia especially in Chaikhanas (tea cafes) which adds to the aesthetic beauty of the place and decor.

AFRICA

The continent of Africa has a diverse culinary heritage and way of life and amongst the vast dining tradition of it’s people one unique dining tradition of Ethiopia stands out.

The city of Harar (Ethiopia) has a special basket table made out of locally grown dried grass and palm leaves called Mesob. Mesob is used to store injera or local flatbread.

Mesob come in all sizes, small ones can be decorative or used to store household items while large mesob play the role of a dinner table or serving table. In many traditional Ethiopian homes people eat together and sit around this woven wicker on low -to -ground stools called barchumas.

CULINARY BOOKS

Ismati Dastarkhwan

Photo credit :Rekhta

Recipe books printed in undivided India have been written by writers who were mostly females one such book of Indian cooking which has been well acclaimed is the Ismati Dastarkhwan (pure dining )in Urdu .

It was published in 1938 (Delhi )by feminist ,writer,educator Amina Nazli .She collected recipes from affluent families and riyasat’s (princely states) and complied the recipes from women of Awadh.

It has served as a kitchen guide for new brides, the Indian diaspora and all those interested in cooking exotic recipes .Though out of print Ismati Dastarkhwan is available to read online on Rekhta website.

Dastarkhwan

In the vast galaxy of culinary books on Indian cuisine, I chose this title especially for the uniqueness of it’s name Dastarkhwan as this name evokes feeling of nostalgia and exotic smell of Indian cuisine and culinary heritage.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT ……..

Depleting local cultural traditions have robbed the dastarkhwan culture of it’s authentic self, although it is still struggling to survive having been kept alive by a handful of all those who have experienced love and warmth around it.

Colourful table cloths have been replaced by cheap plastic versions of the food spread ,they not only make the space look dull and ugly but somewhere the aesthetic’s behind serving and eating food also gets lost .

CONCLUSION

My grandmother (Ammajaan) always stressed that food should look presentable and pleasing to the eyes before eating , she is particularly remembered for hosting memorable family dining and get together’s as she always believed in the thought that, “the,most loved food to Allah is that which is touched by many hands (shared)”,Prophet Muhammed PBUH .

This tradition has been followed by my mother who has not only practiced it but also has immense faith in the countless blessings that comes with sharing of food .

Family dining together in Mustafabad during Muharram (1980’s)

In depth of a kohl eye

Photo credit : Pinterest

INTRODUCTION

Kohl (Kajal) is a popular eye care product widely used used as traditional cosmetic used since ancient times . It is a traditional powder like eyeliner and mascara which is mainly worn around the eyes to darken it in Asia, Africa and the Middle East .This black powder substance has been universally used by both men and women throughout history for thousand of years .

WORD and USE

“Eye is window to the soul “, (Sufi thought )

The word Kohl is an Arabic term , also called Kuul in the Horn of Africa,Kajal in South Asia and Surmeh in Persia ,Tiro in Yoruba ,Tozali and Kwalli in Hausa .In the Indian sub continent it is known by different names in various local languages and dailects.

In Ayurvedic medicine ,kohl is said to have healing properties for cleansing and rejuvinating the eyes and practitioners use it to make preventative treatment for eye infections .

For Muslims it is a prophetic tradition or Sunnah .

USE 

The use of kohl can traced back to 3500BC to ancient Egypt . Galena eye paint (kohl ) was widely used in Ancient Egypt ,used by nobility such as  Cleopatra ,the Pharaohs ,noblility as well as nomadic tribes like Tuareg ,Berbers and Bedouin,both genders have adorned this dark substance trusting it’s protective qualities.

Kohl powder is applied to the inner rim of the eye with a tiny stick attached to a cap of the container holding the kohl mixture ,the container is known as Makhalah in Arabic .

FACE TATTOO 

Muslim inhabitants of  Sahel and Sahara especially women apply kohl on their faces ,this form of kohl on the face originated in Arabian Peninsula and was introduced in the 7th century in North Africa 

Originally used to prevent eye ailments but also to protect from the evil eye, kohl is a universally used eye cosmetic that has been a cultural and artifact domain of women , especially older women who play a key role in it’s making and replenishing eyes .

OCCASSIONS

Kohl brightens the eyes of a new mother, her infant children , the circumcised ,brides and grooms .It is used in all happy and cheerful ocassions like weddings , Islamic festivals and by men during congregational (Jummah )prayers in mosques .

DANCE 

Traditional dance art forms of India prefer to use eyes along with body movements to convey the messages in their dance ,they prefer eye cosmetics like kohl to accentuate the eyes of the dancers thereby adding the beauty to the dancing movements .These Indian dance forms include Bharatnatyam , Kathak ,Kathakali,Kuchipudi ,Bhangra,Garba ,Chhau ,Bihu ,Mohiniyattam etc .

BEAUTY 

Kohl smughed smoky eyes reveal the  magic and secret of a woman’s soul ,those eyes reflect and enhaces beauty apart from being a medicine to cool eye sight.

MOVIES

Who can forget the weathered Arabian looks of actors from movies like Lawrence of Arabia (1962) to The Mummy  (1999),the male characters and their kohl dubbed eys brought depth to their on screen characters .

In Hollywood and Bollywood nowdays many actors,actresses and celebrities (both male and female ) prefer to use eye make up to enhance their looks for smokey, dramatic and subtle effects .

MEDICINE 

Throughout Africa, Asia and Middle East traditional kohl is a cultural ,cosmetic as well as a medicinal staple.

Kohl (Kajal) acts as an eye drop to treat eyes, protect and strengthen external aggressors ,cleans the eye of foreign particles .Kohl is a popular antiseptic used in desert climates where dust and sand can irritate eyes easily,it’s bold lines combat the intense glare of the sun and shields the eye from desert sun induced infections .

In communities in Africa kohl is said to cleanse the eye ,lengthen eyelashes ,protect eyes from sun’s rays ,it is supposed to keep flies at bay ,ward off evil eye ,particularly new born babies and dampen sun glare .It serves dual purpose from being a cosmetic as well as a medicine for the eyes .

Trachoma is also called granular conjunctivitis and is very common eye disease throughout North Africa and is spread by direct contact with affected person through contaminated towels and flies. Kohl powder is said to contain therapeutic properties and is considered a prevented medium against trachoma which leads to blindness if not treated .

RECIPE

There is no fixed recipe for kohl ,the ingredients vary by location ,time and between families and can include lead and lamp black or soot .

In India  traditional kajal  is prepared at home by burning lamp filled with mustard oil,castor oil or ghee (clarified butter )with ingredients like almonds or aloe vera which are used to burn using a clay lamp over a clean plate of bronze,copper that traps the fumes .The soot that collects on the plate maybe mixed with clarified butter or oil. In rural Bengal kajal is made from Monocha plant ,the leaf of Monocha is covered with oil and is kept above a burning mud lamp .

Hashmi Aswad kohl powder is famous and renowed in the Indian sub-continent ,it is a blend of herbs and ingredients selected for their medicinal properties.It acts a medicine for cataract eyes and protect and strengthen external aggression.It has antiseptic properties .

Available online on major Indian websites like Amazon and Flipkart ,Hashmi kajal is a must for those believing in old is gold.

In many Arabian countries carbon from burned frankincense and dates is mixed with oil or nuts 

Antimony (Ithmid ) is crushed ,grounded and mixed which is believed to have healing and protective power found in sacred text and prophetic tradition for brightening eyes ,cleansing and help grow eyelashes.

KOHL CONTAINERS

Photo credit : Ancient Madurai 

My quest for the unusual and rare has landed me in places that are full of exotic stories one such place was a souq in Oman the Matrah souq ,cosmetics have always been a female dominion but a men’s kohl holder was something I could’nt even fancy so invariably I bought a silver men’s kohl holder from a shop named aptly Aladdin’s cave.

Such kohl holders are also found in Zanzibar (Africa) which was once under Omani Sultanate.
Photo credit:Author

In Oman ,men actually wore bullet shaped kohl containers made in silver to emphasize their masculanity.The kohl containers for men are shaped like bullets as men were traditionally expected to wear weapons instead of adornments . Bayt al Zubair Museum in Muscat (Oman) has displayed this unique collection of men’s kohl holder in their galleries .

They often carry these kohl containers on their belts or in their headwraps ,this cosmetic eye paint accentuate their eyes .

TYPES and MATERIALS

Kohl been a versatile product that can also be stored in beautiful containers made into various shapes and sizes like teardrop shape ,mango design or fish shape ,they look beautiful as well as suitable for travelling and can be easily kept in pockets or purse while outdoors .

Kohl vial or (vessel to keep the kohl concoction) is a piece of art itself, called by different names in various cultures kohl pots can be made not only of silver but also copper, glass, malachite ,bone ,ivory , horn, wood, leather, gourd, reed, textiles and beads .

Left to Right :Berber wooden kohl holders ,beaded ,Sudanese ivory ,Egyptian glass and Yemeni silver 

Left to Right  Left :kohl pots in beaded gourd purchased in Yemen ,beaded pot from Oman, Right : cow horn,camel bone Khyber pakhtunwa Poto credit :Brid Beeler Collection 

MUSEUMS and PRIVATE COLLECTIONS

Many renowed Museum’s of the World have kept this unique cultural heritage aiming to preserve it for posterity .Kohl containers or viles have also caught fancy of many private collectors who have collected them out of passion for their beauty and aesthetics .

British Museum 

 

British Library (Palestine) Village woman’s ornamental kohl holder (mukholeh)made of red ,yellow and black striped Syrian silk satin atlas .

Science Museum 

Red leather Kohl container North Africa 1880-1910 ,Photo credit :Science Museum Group Collection .

Louvre Museum ,France 

Photo credit : Louvre Museum (France)

Pitt’s River Collection Online 

Left to right :Ivory ,leather ,brass coolection of kohl viles 

Photo credit : Pitt Rivers Virtual Collection

Discover Islamic Art Online 

 

Photo credit : MWNF 

Private collections in India and abroad have been instrumental in preserving this material heritage .

EVIL -EYE PROTECTION

In India little children especially new borns are put a black kohl in their eyes or as a mark on their faces or cheeks as a sign to protect them from evil eyes .

Some people prefer putting the black mark at the back of ears especially on young girls.

Sudanese grandmothers and midwives would apply kohl to a new born’s eyes seven days after birth to ensure that the eyes are beautiful , healthy and protected from malevolent forces .

In Sudan kohl stick/pin is considered as a protection against evil eye .It is supposed to have protective and talismanic qualities.

 In Darfur (Sudan) a  woman who gives birth it is usual for her to wear a murwal(kohl pin )with a double spiral head in her hair when ever she leaves her house.It is believed that the iron out of which it is carved drives and misleads away jinns and other supernatural forces.

PAINT IT BLACK :A biography of Kohl containers

Paint it Black : A biography of kohl containers was published in 2019 .It is a book written by Jolanda Bos who traces the history of kohl containers from early bronze age to present times .This book incorporates a catalogue of a unique collection of kohl containers kept in the Wearable Heritage Collection also providing detailed maps pin pointing where each container comes from.

KOHL NOW ……..

Kohls today are as diverse a mix then with many mix in minerals ,oxides ,carbonates as well as lead. Chemical kohl is a powdered sulfide such as galena or animonite mixed with various other inorganic as well as organic substance.

According to leading cosmetologists ,black iron oxide and pigments produced in kohl (kajal )may contain elevated levels of lead .Lead is a toxic heavy metal which can cause learning and behavioural problems in children if exposed for long time.

Food and Drug administration (FDA )in the United States of America (USA )has banned kohl as a colour additive ,it’s not approved as a cosmetic ,according to them prolonged application can cause excessive lead storage in the body which impacts the brain. The brain damage can lead to congnitive dysfunction and neurological disorders as such it is illegal to import into ,either sell or manufacture kohl in the USA although funnily American footplayers have been known to use it on gameday .

ALTERNATIVE

Recent polls suggests that companies like Maybelline ,Max factor ,Bourjois are popular when it comes to eye cosmetics .Such business have incorporated the word kohl into their products to represent colour variations rather than particular formations of the product ,these days eye cosmetics are either liquid, gel, wax or powder based. 

In the West charcoal is used ,plant oils and soot from various nuts, seeds and gum resin are often added to the charcoal powder. Idea of both is same .

Modern eye cosmetics are prepared in accordance with relevant heath standards. Although for decades there has been conflicting reports regarding kohl application to eyes, some against it’s application for various health concerns while some studies refute those claims.

Whatever maybe the reason one thing is for sure that our ancestors have never been wrong when it comes to health care and beauty. So called ,’grandma recipes’, are still used at homes and will never loose their charm and usefulness.

CONCLUSION 

As we usher into modern age ,cultural practices have begun to fade away from daily life and memories. Therefore it has become incredibly important to record these amazing aspects of material culture .

It is my sincere tribute to the people who have preserved these fading techniques and arts of our unique cultural heritage .

Maybe we don’t realise their worth now but later they can used as reference for man’s unique connection with nature and it’s bounty for beauty with a purpose ,because beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder….

Jawi Peranakan

“Culture is not made up but something that evolves which is human”.Edward .T.Hall

These words inject a new approach to a common word that we keep reading or hearing all the time. I’ve always believed in knowing a country by it’s culture , traditions and beliefs ,it’s like being introduced to a new friend and slowly discovering them ,one such quest led me to a rather extinct community of Southeast Asia (Jawi Peranakan),which has contributed a lot in its language , culture and cusine.

Jawi Peranakan is an ethnic group found primarily within the Malaysian state of Penang and in Singapore, both regions were part of historical Straits settlements ,where their culture and history is centred around.

INTRODUCTION

Human history is filled with cross cultural exchange of ideas ,traditions ,languages ,art and culture it’s important to remind ourselves that a society can only be strengthened and prosper when individuals have mutual respect and understanding for one another .

One such example of intermingling of cross culture is the Jawi Peranakan ,who mostly reside in the South Eastern countries of Malaysia and some parts of Singapore, intertwined within the rich tapestry of South East Asian culture.

Peranakan’s are multifaceted group of community such as Peranakan Arabs, Peranakan Chinese and Peranakan Indians .They are an ethnic group of people who settled in South East Asia and married local Malay/Indonesian women .

They settled ,retaining their cultural ,religious and social identities and adopting and mingling them with local traditions ,this unique amalgamation of cultures has given birth to sub ethnic groups like Jawi Peranakan ,Baba Nonya culture etc.

WORD

Jawi is an Arabic word to denote Southeast Asia , while Peranakan is a Malay word meaning local born or local descendants , (it refers to the elite , locally born Chinese )

Inter marriage with Malay communities created the Jawi Peranakan or Jawi Pekan culture.

When the Indian ,Arab ,Turkish and Persian migrants came here and married local Malay women they adopted the Pernakan culture as their own .

Muslim immigrants married Malay women and their children spoke the Malay language at home .

Jawi Peranakan families were found throughout Malaysia, especially Penang and Singapore.Penang used to be their largest settlement.

ELITE GROUP

They were an elite group within the British -Malay and colonial Singapore community in mid 19th century Malaysia.

JAWI PERNAKAN (NEWSPAPER)

In addition to their substantial wealth and social standing ,Jawi Peranakan are best remembered for setting the First Malay Newspaper,in Malaysia, Singapore , Indonesia and China (Jawi Pernakan).

Photo credit: British Library

History of the Malay press and Malay journalism in Singapore began in 1876 with the publication of the first Malay weekly newspaper called ,The Jawi Pernakan .

This newspaper was written in the Jawi Script ,aimed to provide its reader with latest news.

ARTS AND CULTURE

Boria is a folk performance unique to Penang .This theatre style reached Penang in the mid 19th century and is believed to be derived from Taziyeh culture of Persia (Iran) performed during the month of Muharram to commemorate the Martyr’s of Kerbala.

R.J.Wilkinson a Straits Civil Service Officer ,and a noted scholar of Malay studies,made a comparison between Boria of Madras and Penang, and established that the resemblance was only in name .

The show in Penang has evolved into totally different form.

Boria is performed for entertainment and each year different troups also change and can have a comical , political and satirical notion.

CUISINE

Jawi Peranakan cuisine is known by the Malays as ,Food for Feasting usually served only during celebrations and occassions such as weddings .

Jawi Perinakan cuisine drew upon Middle Eastern and Indian roots rich in spices,saffron and dried fruits combined with South Asian where fresh herbs,tamarind and edible roots predominate .

FEASTS OF PENANG

FEASTS OF PENANG is a Muslim culinary heritage book published in 2013, this book written by a Punjabi Muslim Dr.Wazir Jahan Karim is her labour of love and homage to the unique Jawi Peranakan heritage cusine of Penang (Malaysia).

Dr.Wazir runs Jawi House Cafe Gallery along with her son chef Nuril Karim in the UNESCO heritage designated George Town area of Penang. Jawi House was established by the Karim family of Punjabi Jawi ancestry dating back to 6 generations in George Town .Chef Nuril Karim firmly believes in local and sustainable sources of good Malay muslim cuisine with Middle eastern signature dish lemoni.

JAWI SCRIPT

A tombstone in Aceh (Indonesia) with Jawi inscription dated from 16th or 17th century . Photo credit :Wikipedia

Jawi Script is the writing system used for writing several languages of South East Asian origin such as Achenese ,Malay ,Minangkabau .

It is based on Arabic script consisting of all original 31 Arabic letters and 6 additional letters consisting to fit phonemes native to Malays and like Arabic script Jawi is written from right-to-left .

Jawi script is one of the 2 official scripts in Brunei and alternate script among Malay community in Indonesia and Thailand. Jawi is the official script of Unfederated Malay States .

DEMISE OF THE COMMUNITY

The Jawi Perinakan community has maintained a distinct identity which was captured in their architecture,clothing ,jewellery and cuisine .Culturally this community contributed a lot in enriching the Perinakan community already in George Town.

However there are now a few Jawi Perinakan families left in Singapore and Malaysia especially in Penang which used to be their largest settlement .

JAWI PERNAKAN MANSION

Jawi Peranakan Mansion is being owned and designed by investment banker turned heritage hotelier from Penang Chris Ong .

Acquired in 2012 in a dilapiated state Chris Ong carefully renovated and restored it’s former beauty artfully after 3 years of renovation .The restored Anglo- Indian Mansion consists of 8 mansion rooms and 6 family suites having an eclectic mix of 18th /19th century British architecture and Muslim design styles.

This building pays homage to the rich Jawi Peranakan culture of Penang and it’s inhabitants .

PERANAKAN MUSEUM

Peranakan Museum (Singapore ) opened to the public on 17th February 2023 after nearly 4 years of renovation work.

It explores the culture of Peranakan communities in South East Asia and posses one of the finest and most comprehensive public collection of Peranakan objects .

Penang Peranakan Masion

Situated in historic George Town ,Penang (Malaysia ),the Penang Peranakan Mansion is dedicated to Penang’s Peranakan Heritage .This mansion contains thousands of Peranakan artifacts ,antiques and collectables.

CONCLUSION

A culturally rich society displays a healthy amalgamation of ideas ,thoughts and traditions of people of various backgrounds .It is born as a result of centuries of exchange and influence of ideas between mankind as such it a collective responsibility of each one of us to learn ,preserve and cherish it .

Reflections ,Mapping Gaza

INTRODUCTION

Museum’s are windows to our past ,to cherish ,preserve and to learn ,inculcate and carry forward the cultural heritage left behind by our ancestors .One such visit to Islamic Art’s Museum in Kwala Lampur (Malaysia) changed my perspective on our cultural legacies .

Upon entering the majestic building ,on the ground floor was a solemn photo exhibition of  heritage lost forever in countries like Iraq, Syria ,Yemen ,Afghanistan etc .My eyes could not muster the courage to look at those shattering pieces of human destruction  and my heart raced towards a brief conversation I had with my cousin sister Zeba over the phone after 9/11 (2001),”Shahana “,she said , her voice in deep panic ” ,” Papa says ,the world order will change after this “.

Yes, true the world changed around us in a subtle way after that ,like so many countless unknown lives around the world especially in countries where America and it’s allies spread the aggression . Since then countless valuable lives, unique cultural heritage ,way of life ,food and clothing have been lost to senseless wars, invasion and aggressions .

MAPPING GAZA

Coming back to the end of 2023 ,a small strip of land bordering Mediterranean sea on one side and sharing borders with Egypt and Israel has gripped our attention,the world’s attention past more than 100days starting with  Israel’s brutal attack on the small enclave of Gaza (Palestine ) on October 7th 2023.

Suddenly Gaza has become our ,moral compass ,says Dr. Munther Issac (PhD,Oxford Centre for Mission Studies, Academic dean of Bethlehem Bible College in Palestine and Pastor of Evangelical Lutheran Church,Bethlehem) “if we don’t feel pain something is wrong within us” .

The cost of human life has been incomprehensible ,Palestine has lost some of it’s best ,vibrant minds in this brutal war with,professor’s ,teachers ,aspiring students ,artists, engineers, doctors , reporters and worst of all little children ,toddlers ,infant’s and babies have been lost forever in the rubble of a brutal genocide of Palestinian lives . In fact this war has been coined as the ,”War on Children” .

Children are our future ,they carry the torch of their forebears ,when they die our future dies and I felt it was important to pen down and document the lost heritage of Gaza (Palestine) since Palestine and it’s people have been oppressed for too long and I want to stand upright on the right side of history .

PALESTINE

Palestine in the past was a hub for commerce ,culture under Egyptian ,Greek ,Roman and Byzantine rule .Gaza strip is so close to the birthplace of three largest religions of the world that it has heritage structures spanning centuries. It is a region rich in culture and traditions .

History of Gaza spans 4,000 years during which it was ruled, destroyed and repopulated by various dynasties, empire and people.

The Israeli-Palestinian conflict began in 1948 when Israeli army displaced more than 700,0000 Palestinians from their homeland, It is considered as one of world’s continuous conflicts.

1954 Hague Convention convention agreed by both Palestinian and Israeli authorities was supposed to safeguard landmarks from the ravages of war.

Sadly the present Israeli aggression did not respect any treaty of the past and have displayed the most arrogant ,egoistic display of strength to the world .

UNESCO (United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organisation)

Palestinian territories have 4 four World Heritage Sites recognised by UNESCO , located in the Western Bank side of the besieged Palestinian enclave .

Three Gazan sites were in UNESCO’s World Heritage Tentative List.

Architectural site of Anthedon Harbour ( Blakhiyah )is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Gaza .It is an ancient seaport harbour city ,Gaza’s first known seaport operating from 800BC to 1100AD .However the site has been badly damaged .

St.Hilarion Monastery ,the only surviving structure in Tell Umm Amer is one of the oldest and largest known Christian monument located in Central Gaza .It was added to UNESCO’s Tentative list in 2012.”The ruins bear testimony to the emergence of Christianity in the region. “says UNESCO spokesperson.

Al Khader Monastery ,one of the oldest historical buildings in the Gaza strip.UNESCO has worked closely with partners to restore the monastery.

The future of the three Gazan sites recognised by UNESCO’s World Heritage Tentative List lies in jeopardy as the current aggression continues to devastate Gaza and it’s people ,thereby ruthlessly destroying the rich cultural tapestry of the city.

UNESCO has been deeply concerned about the adverse impact of the ongoing conflict on the cultural heritage in Palestine .

HERITAGE FOR PEACE

A recent survey by the group Heritage for Peace (a Spain based NGO which has a dedicated team of international volunteers) ,have presented a detailed report about the damage inflicted on Gaza’s architectural heritage sites .

Isber Sabire (President ,Heritage for Peace ) said about Gaza that , “it is a small area but with a lot of heritage “.

According to the report so far more than 104 sites in the Gaza Strip out of the 195 architectural heritage sites in Gaza city has been damaged beyond repair .

The report has classified Gazan Architectural Sites into different categories.

MOSQUES

1.) Omari Mosque ( one of the historical mosques of Palestine )

2.) Syed Hashim Mosque ,which includes the shrine of Prophet Mohammad’s grandfather Hashim bin Abd Manaf .

SHRINES and ZAWIYAS (Schools)

3.)Shrine of Al -Khadir in Deir al Balah city.

4.)The Ahmadia Zawaiya ,in old Gaza city.

5.) Al Kamiliyah School constructed in 1237 AD

MONASTERIES and CHURCHES

6.) Church of Saint Porphyrius -believed to be the 3rd oldest Church still working in the world founded in 425 C.E

7.)Great Byzantine Church in Jabaliya

8.)The Church of Saint Pervierios (Greek Orthodox )

PALACES

9. )Qasr Al -Basha ,(a 13th century Mamluk Fort ) an old fortress converted into architectural museum in Gaza city.

CEMETERIES

10.) 2,000 year old Roman Cemetary and Necropolis containing upto 80 tombs was discovered in Northern Gaza . It is within the vicinity of the Blakhiyah site (Anthedon of Palestine).

11.) Cemetary -Deir al -Balah dating back to the late Bronze age (1150-1200 BCE )

MARKETS ,KHANS and STABLES

12.) The Qaysariyah Market located in Daraj neighbourhood is Mamluk era souk (market)

13.) Khan Al -Amir Younus 789 AH ,(1387 CE ) located in the centre of Khan Yunis city .

14.) Al-Alami and Kasab asbala( stables )

FOUNTAINS

15.) Sabil Al-Rifaiyah

HAMMAM (Bath House)

16.) Hammam Al-Samra (1320 AD) located in Al-Zaytoun neighbourhood (old town Gaza city )

17.) Historic houses account for over half of it’s heritage with 186 houses which includes Al Saqqa House (1661) ,which was an used as a  cultural centre .

Palestinian Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities have been unable to carry full scale assessment of the destruction because of relentless bombardment ,day and night.

Around 29,000 bombs have been dropped on Gaza city destroying the civilian infrastructure beyond repair .

ICOMOS (International Council on Monuments and Sites)

ARCHIVES and MUSEUM

Palestinian branch of the ICOMOS ( International Council on Monuments and Sites) ,reports the complete destruction of the Central Archives of Gaza City, where thousands of historic documents were kept.

Rafah Museum Director Suhaila Shaheen reported that priceless items from coins ,precious stones ,copper plates and clothes have been damaged and lost .

HOSPITAL

Apart from priceless structures destroyed ,the oldest hospital building in Gaza city the Al-Ahli Baptist Hospital (1661) was bombed and targeted by Israeli snipers where innocent civilians were being treated and had sought shelter .

Geneva based human rights group Euro-Med Monitor, said that ,”Israel deliberately destroyed architecture and monuments in Gaza Strip ,”and has accused it of ,”explicitly targeting Palestinian Cultural Heritage”.

With all the death and destruction we have witnessed in past three months and dwindling of  hope with each passing day , I still have hope in my heart for Palestine because in the end …..Truth Has A Voice.

CONCLUSION

I have always decorated my articles with colourful and vibrant pictures to give my readers a taste of what they read ,because, “picture says a thousand words “, but I have refrained from sharing this time of the destruction in Gaza because I want Gaza to be remembered as a joyful ,vibrant city with loving and cultured citizens rather than a ghost town or a graveyard which it has been turned out to be by the Israeli offensive.

“We will return you to a homeland despite our miseries as free people chanting united ,We won’t be Silent we won’t Surrender No!no no no ………we’d sacrifice for you so you may live O’Palestine ” ,lyrics from a popular song Falastine Biladi ,sung by Kuwaiti singer Humood .

These words are hopes and aspirations of countless free and peace loving citizens of the world who wish to seek justice ,peace ,love and respect among People and Nations .

Hope 2024 can bring the shattered Pieces together and repair their aspirations with Peace .

CHRISTMAS STORY RETOLD …..

Christmas celebrating the birth of Jesus Christ is a happy, joyful occassion celebrated across the world. 

This year 2023 ,the celebrations and festivities in the Holy Land particularly in the West Bank  cities of Bethlehem (birth place of Jesus Christ ) and Jerusalem stands low key and scaled back .

Local Christian leaders and priests decided to mute Christmas celebrations in solidarity of the ongoing genocide of the Palestinian population in Gaza strip.

More than 20,000  Palestinians including women ,babies ,children ,elderly and men have lost their lives in the on going full scale ,incessant bombardment and mass murder committed by the Israeli Defence Forces (IDF)  through air and ground invasion .Nearly 85 percent of the strip’s total population has been internally displaced.

“Christmas is joy ,love and peace ,we have no peace ,we have no joy ”,says Father Speridon Sammour a Greek Orthodox priest at the Church of Nativity .

Bethlehem ,the city of 30,00 people ,place where Jesus Christ was born has largely remained low key ,representing a ghost town as intense fighting between Israel and Hamas rages on ……..

Christmas celebrations like parades,music ,carols ,singing ,feasts ,lights ,markets ,Santa Claus distributing candies and gifts ,decorated Christmas trees all remained largely distant and quite .

The streets that swelled with people enjoying their festivities ,marking a joyous occassion ,a rather important  historic event in human history have largely remained empty of any festivities .With almost no pilgrims and only handful of tourists present in the Holy land ,the souvenir shops gather dust .

Living under occupation and the impending war is choking the existence of Palestinians and threatening their livelihoods like never before .

 CHRIST IN THE RUBBLE 

At the Evangelican Luthern Christ Church in Bethlehem ,Rev ,Dr.Munther Issac a Palestinian Christian theologian in his annual Christmas message this year told the congregation that the, “Christmas message is not about Santa ,trees ,gifts ,lights etc ,”according to him , “the message has been twisted and commercialised” .

For him , ”Jesus who survived a massacre was born among the occupied and marginalised .He is in solidarity with us in our pain and brokeness ”.

Christ in the Rubble ,Nativity scene at the Church in Bethlehem .Photo credit :Time 

Rev. Dr. Issac stood beside the small Nativity scene in his chapel ,in the manger scene Baby Jesus is wearing a Palestinian traditional scarf (keffiyeh) lying on a pile of rubble .”This is what Christmas looks like in Palestine ”,Rev .Dr. Issac said ,”it is the true message “.

The Christmas story mentioned in the Gospel of Mathhew has Joseph ,a Jewish man living in Palestine under Roman rule is forced to report to Bethlehem for a census .He takes his young pregnant wife Mary ,unable to find lodgings ,no room in the inn ,they settle in a stable where Mary gives birth to the ,King of Kings .

King Harod of Judea learning of the birth of rival orders that all male children under 2 years should be killed .Jesus,Mary and Joseph flee to Egypt .

The story of Jesus is one who is born into hardship , lived under occupation ,survived a massacre and became a refugee .Rev.Dr.Issac says ,”it is a story that we as Palestinians can understand .” It is a story that echoes the Palestinian struggle .

In days leading to Christmas celebrations the occupied Palestinian territories have words like Santa,gifts and carols been replaced with words like massacre, refugee ,census etc because for most of them the price for freedom has been too costly and they are already paying a very heavy price.

Christmas story is about God in human form present with people in their suffering ,and is full of deep messages and meanings .It is important for now as well since the place, people and circumstances are all too familiar .

It is a human story of pain ,suffering and triumph and somewhere inspires us to not give up hope ,somewhere deep down in my heart I know that the resilience of the Palestinian people will triumph over all odds and obstacles.  It is important to recall this story time and again because it gives hope to the hopeless and revives our faith in humanity and human values .

Flight of an Olive Branch

Photo credit :Al Jazeera

INTRODUCTION

The months of October and November are of particular importance to the Palestinian farmers as it is the Olive harvest season .They look forward to the season as it renews their connection to their homeland ,strengthening their economy and bringing their families together.

Farmers pick the olives along with their extended families and friends ,sitting under the olive trees ,laughing ,dancing and singing their folk songs and having meals together.

Photo credit :Al Jazeera

These words are just a flick of imagination ,a distant dream for millions of defenseless Palestinian families along-with their children who are trapped in Gaza strip ,constantly being bombarded with missiles ,rockets and bombs worth crores of dollars, which is wiping out their entire bloodlines from the face of the Earth .

As I write there is a genocide taking place in full public view ,with the world watching silently ,not to mention the condemnation of a few Arab nations who have tried to secure their own interests and offering nothing but lip service to the war crimes committed by Israel and it’s allies along with the support and goodwill of many western governments .

As such it became incumbent upon me to collect , highlight and honour the Palestinian heritage spanning thousands of years and what better way to honour their heritage than by writing about sacred olive tree and it’s cultural impact on Palestinian society .

Olive tree has been deeply rooted in Palestinian culture and heritage for centuries .It not only provides them with nourishment and income but also a deep sense of identity.

OLIVE TREE AND IT’S SYMBOLISM

Olive Tree (Olea Europaea)is a slow growing ,evergreen tree or shrub native to the Mediterranian region ,Asia and Africa .It can grow upto 6-9 metres tall and wide .

The Olive tree has many branches ,it’s leaves are leathery ,it also has strong roots that can regrow even when it seems that the tree has decimated.

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Olive trees live thousands of years ,some of them are as old as 2,000years .It is drought friendly and just like Eucalyptus trees does not need to be watered.

SYMBOL OF PEACE AND UNITY

A universal sign of harmony and peace ,the olive tree and it’s branches found mention in the holy texts of the three Abrahamic religions of the world namely Judaism,Christianity and Islam .It is a sacred tree, a sign of God’s abundance on Earth and it’s inhabitants .

Ironically a golden olive branch was left on the Moon by Neil Armstrong on the 1969 Apollo 11 mission as a symbol of peace .

Photo credit :Flickr

Wreath of an olive branch is on the United Nations flag and many countries like Cypress ,Eritrea have also adopted it on their country’s flag ,countless institutions ,organisations, states ,schools etc  around the world have adopted this universal sign of peace and freedom on their emblems .

Throughout history ,olive tree and it’s branches have often been used as a symbol of ,abundance ,health ,glory ,wisdom ,fertility ,victory ,peace ,power ,and purity .

WORLD PEACE DAY

Photo credit :Nepal news

The United Nations has designated 21st September as International Day of Peace ,or World Peace Day .White dove with an olive branch , (sign of peace and victory ),has been adopted as it’s emblem.

OIL OF ABUNDANCE

Prophet Muhammad pbuh said ,“eat olive oil and massage it over your bodies since it is a holy (Mubarak) tree”,he also stated that olive oil cures 70 diseases.

Palestinian Olive Oil is famous for it’s complex and unique taste ,rich flavours and incredibly high quality ,because the olives are handpicked from ancient groves dotting the Palestinian landscape that ensures the maintenance of high quality natural anti-oxidants .

A vast majority of olives harvested comes from West Bank area of Palestine mostly around the city of Jenin .

Olive fruit and it’s oil not only provides nourishment but also helps fight against deadly diseases.Research has shown that people who consume olive oil daily remain safe from deadly disease’s like cancer .

FOOD

Photo credit :Devian Art

Palestinian cuisine revolves around olives and olive oil ,the Palestinian city of West Bank is well known for heavier dishes with meat and olive oil ,while the cuisine of Gaza strip and other coastal cities is rich in sea food and spices .

“What unites different kinds of Palestinian cooking is the love of the olive oil or Zaitoun and yogurt”, writes Yasmin Khan from her cookbook on Palestinian cuisine aptly named Zaitoun .

Palestinian families pickle and conserve olives in salt ,brine or vinegar and flavour them with different herbs and spices .

Their dips ,breads and salads are all dipped in their love for olives and olive oil which further enhances the taste of the dishes cooked.

OLIVE WOOD CARVING

Wood carving from olive tree is an ancient craft of Palestine which is an ancient handicraft present from 4th CE century to current times .

Olive wood carving requires intensive labour and is completed upon many stages in some cases it can take upto 45 days or more.

Photo credit : Shop Palestine

Craftsmen get at least 6 to 7 years of training to work professionally as this craft often involves multiple artisans having different types of expertise in wood carving.

In it’s last stage Olive Wax is applied to give the object a natural sheen which ensures it’s longevity and enhances the beauty of the finished olive wood product.

Olive wood is easier to craft using simple tools to carve and chisel the wood patterns .Olive wood is resistant to decay and lasts long .

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Palestinian woodcarvers from the city of Bethlehem provide religious items like rosaries,crosses ,christmas decor ,holy figurines to objects of daily use like cups,platters etc and decoration items like flower -vase,wall decor,magnets etc.

They are sold to thousands of tourists visiting the various sites and pilgrimage spots as a reminder of their visit to the Holy Land.

OLIVE OIL SOAP (Nablus)

Photo credit :Discover Islamic Art

History of olive soap industry in the West bank city of Nablus (Palestine) is complex ,marked with adversity,natural disasters adding to woes the current Israeli occupation and restrictions which has forced the shut down of this ancient city’s 30 soap factories dwindling to only two working currently .

Traditionally made by women for household use ,olive oil based soap from Nablus became a signature industry by the 14 th century and  Nablus was exporting it’s products to Europe and Middle East which thrived till 17th century .

Nablus soap is a type of castile soap made up of extra virgin olive oil, water , baking soda and locally supplied lime .

All these ingredients are cooked together ,cooled on stone-floors ,dried and cut in squares and left to dry in cylindrical shaped tall pyramids to allow air to circulate and dry the blocks of soaps.

It can take around two to three months to dry the soap cubes depending upon weather .

Photo credit :Al-Jazeera

The finished product is ivory -coloured soap bar without any scent .It is considered as one of the world’s oldest and natural soap devoid of any chemicals substances.

Since it is a natural product the olive oil based soap is beneficial for both Hair and Skin .It has anti aging properties which also nourishes,mosturises,purifies,strengthens and renews the skin tissues but is also helpful in preventing skin disorders like eczema ,psoriasis,rashes,acne,itchiness etc.This natural soap prevents hairfall and dandruff and promotes thick and shiny hair growth .

Along side Nablus ,the Lebanese city of Tripoli is also famous for producing high-quality olive-oil soap .

Photo credit : Wikipedia

The Tuqan soap factory (estb 1872)in the West bank city of Nablus is currently working ,despite the hardships involved this factory continous to produce the famed soap while the old Arafat soap factory has been turned into a Cultural Heritage Enrichment Centre both the centres are open to the visitors in Nablus.

Local NGO like Project Hope have introduced Olive oil Soap into Western markets as a way to support local industry ,although with the impending threat of war and genocide of Palestinian lives with all these initiatives seems bleak .

OTHERS

Apart from it’s use in Palestinian cuisine ,the life giving olive tree is deeply ingrained in Palestinian heritage from their folk songs and poetry ,all other aspects of their handicrafts and traditions honours the sacred olive tree including olive pattern and motifs on their traditional clothes,weaving ,embroidery ,pottery ,glass ,woodwork etc .

Keffiyeh

The traditional Keffiyeh or Palestinian scarf worn by both males and females has symbolic olive leaves printed on it’s borders .

Photo credit :Pinterest

Keffiyeh was a simple scarf worn by Palestinian farmers ,it was famously worn by Yasser Arafat leader of the PLO (Palestinian Liberation Organization) and since then has become a symbol of Palestinian resistance against the apartheid rule of the Israeli Zionist Regime.

Photo credit :Pinterest

Embroidery

Palestinian embroidery also known as tatreez is fine needle work with cross stitch patterns .It was a labour of love handcrafted  by Palestinian women who embroiderd unique patterns inspired by their surroundings into their traditional dresses called ,thobes  during their free time from household chores.

Every place in Palestine had different embroidery techniques that distinguished itself from other regions.

Palestinian thobes in the collection of Widad Kawar on display at Tiraz Centre,Amman (Jordan)

Olive branch motif in Palestinian tatreez embroidery.

Photo Credit : Pinterest

Pottery and Glass

Palestinian pottery and glass have olive motifs engraved ,decorated and etched on their surface ,the products include deep plates for serving condiments and jars to keep the olive oil in them.

Photo credit :Shop Palestine

In Gaza strip ,Atlafuna crafts along with Mr. Sabri Atallah and his family had been striving to keep the art of traditional Palestinian pottery alive but the recent spate of violence and blood shed in the Gaza strip has threatened the very existence of their crafts.

AL -BADAWI OLIVE TREE

The Al-Badawi olive tree is located in the village of Al-Walaja in the Bethlehem district of Palestine ,it is named after an Egyptian Sufi holy man who spent much of his time under it’s branches and was once a pilgrimage site for the Sufi’s .

Photo credit :Atlas Obscura

Owned by Ali Al Walaja a Palestinian farmer ,this tree is considered as one of the oldest standing olive trees in the world .

Some experts believe it to be between 4,000 to 5,000 years old and is one of handful of olive trees in the East Mediterranian that are more than 2,000 years old .

Mr.Al Walaja claims that the Palestinian Authority pays him a small amount monthly to guard his prized olive tree because of reports of Israeli settlers and soldiers burning and cutting down ancient olive trees in parts of the West Bank .

MOUNT OF OLIVES

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Mount of Olives (Arabic Jabal az Zaytoun) is a mountain ridge located in East Jerusalem (Palestine ) and is named after the olive groves that once covered it’s slopes.

It is a holy site associated with Islam,Judaism and Christianity, for Muslims it is a holy site,in Christianity many important events of Jesus Christ’s life occured here and for Jew’s it is a Necropolis where they are buried on it’s slope.

CONCLUSION

“If the Olive trees knew the hands that planted them,their Oil would become Tears “.Mahmoud Darwish (Palestinian Author and Poet)

Photo credit :Pinterest

Since I come from a family of freedom fighter’s which includes my great grand -father and grand father who fought for the independence of their beloved country India, and break free from the chains of the British Empire ,growing up listening to the stories of their bravery with great pride in my heart I can very well relate to the aspirations and hopes of the Palestinian people.

I wish that just like the blessed olive tree standing on it’s land for thousands of years the sacred blood of it’s martyrs would forever inject new hope and inspire a new generation to stand up for the right to fight against injustice and oppression and raise the Palestinian struggle for freedom from the ashes of oppression .

I hope and pray to see their land free of occupation and rejocing in it’s independence, the sweet hustling of olives leaves filled with the laughter of Palestinian’s from ,the River to the Sea because……..

IDENTIFYING THE FOUR KROWNS OF HEADRESS

INTRODUCTION

Men from different cultures and religious ethnicities across the world use caps,hats and scarves to cover and distinguish themselves from other communities .It marks their ranking and authority in the society .

Likewise the Muslim community (men and women )cutting across the globe has been known for wearing different types of costumes including headwear that distinguishes them from people of various backgrounds and cultures.

BRIMLESS JUNCTION 

KUFI

Kufi is a type of short brimless ,round skull cap having cultural and religious purposes which is  associated with various African Nations or ethnicities ,believed to have originated from the African continent ,it is worn by men throughout the African diaspora .

Kufi is also worn in various different forms in South Asia and the Middle East .

WORD 

Kufi is African word meaning CROWN ,Kufi (Cap) word comes from Arabic Kuffiya,Keffiyeh perhaps via Swahili Kofia (hat)

Though people of West African heritage of all faiths wear the Kufi ,it is mostly associated with members of Islamic faith,though regardless of the religion people in West Africa wear the Kufi.

It is a close fitting cap worn by both Muslims and Christians .

In the Christian community ,even women can wear the Kufi as it is Unisex ,the crocheted Kufi is most preferred for the little girls and infants. Ladies compliment their outfits with the Kufi.

USES

Kufi cap compliment national costumes and the  traditional outfit is incomplete without this cap .It is worn to show their title in the community and family patriachs symbolize their position in the family.Weddings ,funerals ,graduation and Kwanzaa celebrations calls for this cap to be worn …..

Kufi caps can be worn with Senegalese kaftan, grand boubou and various other traditional African dresses.

Made of Kente cloth,mud cloth or knitted ,crochted in a variety of yarns Kufi is a sign of Peace,Mourning ,Renewal or Protection of Mind .

TYPES OF KUFI HATS 

The design are Islamic in inspiration with an emphasis on Geometry and Pattern.

MUSEUMS 

VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM 

PENN MUSEUM 

KOFIA 

The Kofia is brimless cylindrical cap with a flat crown ,worn mainly by some men in East Africa .The traditional Kofia has tiny pin holes in the cloth that allows air to circulate .

WORD

Kofia is a Swahili word that means ,hat.

In Zanzibar ,a Swahili man is said to be fully when he puts on an embroidered cap locally known as Kofia with robe called a Kanzu with a coat and sandals taking a Swahili name of Makubadhi .

Worn by Somali and Swahili Men in East Africa ,North Coast of Mozambique ,Congo ,Oman and Comoros the kofia is worn with a variety of traditional African and Arab dresses like Dashiki (a colourful African dress) and Kanzu (white or cream coloured tunic ).

Common names of Zazibar Caps are  made taking inspiration from the local environment around like Kikuti (palm leaf ),Kidema (locally made fishing trap ) ,Lozi (corruption of English word Rose ) , Besela (Zanzibar wooden bedstead ,which is a treasured household item ),Kipepeo (Butterfly like design representing flying creations ),Msikiti ( Mosque)which depicts a dome like pattern and two minarets .Some craftsmen have gone further  to produce the Names of God (Allah ) in Arabic writing .

These cylindrical caps are embroidered by hand with floral and geometric patterns mostly embroidered by men though increasingly by women too .Different types of embroidery techniques are used also known as Eyelit  Infilling .FUNDI is a craftman who specializes in drawing of Kofia designs .

Muslim men wear the Kofia as part of everyday dress and they are required to wear them during prayer.  A handmade Kofia may represent the wearer’s status in society .

BARGASHIA 

Photo credit : National Geographic (Christopher Wilton -Steer )

Named after Barghash Bin Said of Zanzibar (former Sultan of Zanzibar) ,this style of hat is similar to the Kofia except it features embroidery over the whole cap .It can be worn with a Kanzu an East African robe worn on special occassions .

The more elaborate a Bargashia Kofia is designed the higher price it will fetch in the market .It is the most popular hat worn in Northern Uganda and Zanzibar .

Swahili social activities ,notably the burial ceremony is characterised by wearing a Bargashia .

BARAWAANI KUFI 

 Koofia Barawaani is a specific hat that finds origin in the city of Barawaani  in Somalia (Africa) .Authentic Koofia  Barawaani is handmade and it exemplifies dignity,wisdom and prestige.

 

MUSEUMS

BRITISH MUSEUM 

Kofia in white cotton with a floral pattern created by numerous perforations ,each embroidered with pale yellow cotton.

KUMMAH 

Kummah link Omanis to their cultural past and have become a personal statement in the modern age .They take great pride in wearing Kummahs in their day to day lives and also in important events of their lives .

Kummah is worn by adult Men and Children alike,it is uasually worn with their traditional dress called the Dishdasha.

STRUCTURE 

The structure of a Kummah is that of a skull cap with a circular top sewn into cylindrical sides.Double layers of thick white cotton calico helps the cap maintain it’s shape and not collapse on the head .

The technique used for the eyelets is broderie anglaise , a fine needlework craft incorporating features of embroidery cutwork and lace 

HANDMADE 

Best quality handmade Kummah variety is expensive ,some can cost hundreds of dollars. A good quality Kummah cap can take upto 2 weeks to finish .

They are the most sought after by the people as it gives elegant , aesthetic touch rather than machine sewn ones . .Machine made are much cheaper and easily available in the market rather than the handmade ones.

Oman has recently passed a legislation to protect women who make the Kummahs against cheap machine -made imitations .Only caps made in conformity with the regulation can be labelled and sold as authentic Kummahs in Oman .

WORLD’S BIGGEST KUMMAH 

It took Amani al Raisi (a young girl from Amerat in Muscat province of  Oman then aged 17 years in 2013 ), 18 months to complete the intricate Kummah and by the end it reached a height of one metre and had over 200,000 hand stiches .Her work has been registered  in Guinness Worlds Records .

Photo credit :Facebook 

OMAN and ZANZIBAR

Photo credit :Laylah Amantullah Barrayn 

All over the Swahili coast ,the kofia is worn and that is because that region was once part of the Omani empire until the Zanzibari revolution,Oman and Zanzibar were part of huge trading community and their dressing style too is inspired from one another .

The Omani cap (Kummah) has usually finer work than the Zanzibari variety which has more perforations and are found in a more limited range of colours .

Award winning documentry photographer Laylah Amanatullah Barrayn ,based in New York (U.S)  has worked on projects in Zanzibar and Tanzania documenting the traditional Kofia of the Swahili coast .

Photo credit :Laylah Amantullah Barrayn 

KEFFIYEH

 

Keffiyeh is a traditional Arab headdress consisting of a square of cloth folded to form a triangle and held on by a cord.

Keffiyeh is commonly found in arid regions as it provides protection from sunburns ,dust and sand. An agal is often used by Arabs to keep it in place .The scarf is usually made from cotton ,essential piece of clothing for the Bedouins of the desert and Fellahi people ,who used it as protection from heat and sand storms .

WORD 

Also known in Arabic as a Ghutrah,Shemagh and Hattah ,Keffiyeh is a traditional headdress worn by Men from parts of the Middle East.

PALESTANIAN KEFFIYEH 

Traditionally worn by Palestanian farmers ,the Keffiyeh became worn by Palestanian men of rank and became a symbol of Palestanian nation during the Arab revolt of 1930’s.It was famously worn by Yasser Arafat and became a symbol of Palestanian Resistance .

The black and white fishnet patterns of the Keffiyeh would later become Arafat’s iconic symbol of Palestanian resistence .

The scarf is usually made from cotton ,essential piece of clothing for the Bedouins of the desert and Fellahi people ,who used it as protection from heat and sand storms .

PATTERNS OF KEFFIYEH 

The design of the scarf considers the minute detail of Palestinian culture.

The bold lines symbolize Palestinian trade because it was a hub for importing and export of goods for the whole region .

Olive leaves represent a symbol of Palestinian culture and resistance ,native olive trees have thrived in Palestine for hundreds of years representing the deep rooted bond of land to it’s indigeneous people. 

Seawaves represent the strength and perseverence of Palestinian communities who have endured during military occupation and oppression since 1948.They are also interpreted as olive leaves or branches by some people.

Fish-net patterns represent Palestanian famous fishing industry ,which is still a lifeline for the besieged Gaza Strip’s economy .It symbolizes abundance and grace .

SHEMAGH 

In Jordan ,the Keffiyeh is also called Shemagh or a hatta .Historically worn by Bedouin tribes as red and white represents the colours of the Arabian desert .

It gives protection from sand,dust and smoke ,staying cool in the heat of the Arabian desert ,it can be used as a towel,washcloth,pillow or blanket ,as first aid emergency ,as water filter ,camouflage ,fire starter ,pot holder ,as signalling device ,this cloth can be used for multipurposes .

Traditionally Red keffiyeh is native to many areas in the Arabian Peninsular and remains a popular cultural symbol of Jordan and Gulf countries.

 

May 11 is celebrated throughout the world especially Middle East as World Keffiyeh Day.

 

CONCLUSION 

The world is filled with different communities who wear different traditional outfits and matching them are a wide variety of hats and caps and Muslim communities are no exception ,my basic aim is to bring about awareness on their unique traditional handicrafts . Although the four K’s are just a drop in ocean to the wide variety of headdress yet to be explored and I have yet to navigate and miles to go before I sleep ……..

The Cloth that Speaks

Introduction

KANGA

Kanga is a Rectangular pure cotton machine printed cloth with a border all around it ,printed in bold and bright colours. It is a colourful fabric worn by women and occasionally by men throughout the Great African Lakes. It is their unique Verbal Art .

Starting along the East African coast in the early 1880’s ,Kangas have been extremely popular not only for clothing but also for their multiple uses, they are brightly coloured rectangular, machine printed cotton cloth around 45×65 inches in size which are usually sold in pairs .

Kanga designs have evolved over the years ,from simple spots and borders to a huge variety of elaborate patterns of every conceivable motif and colour.

WORD

The word Kanga ,comes from the Swahili word for Guinea fowl which is their local bird .The markings of these birds inspired the name for this cloth.

In other regions especially Kenyan coast ,a Kanga is also known as Leso .It is a traditional piece of African print cloth that is widely used in East Africa .

DESIGN

Kanga is distinctly recognized from the wide variety and kaleidoscope of other African textile because of it’s design .

It’s basic design structure consists of a patterened border (pinto), surrounding a central motif (niji) and Swahili proverb or phrase (jina).

The rectangular shaped printed cloth measures about 150cms in length and 110cms in width.

The sayings are written in Swahili language and printed in bold capital letters ,they can be traditional Swahilil proverbs ,or just simple messages which can sometimes be vague or ambigious .

The print patterns of Kanga are categorised into floral,fauna and other patterns in short the Kanga is a beautiful ,affordable and accessible piece of cloth which is worn and sold uncut or in pairs .

INFLUENCES

Design of the Kangas have been influenced by a wide variety of resources and places,because of global exchange of ideas through trade and commerce over centuries on the coastal regions of Africa .

As such influences can be seen like bandhini patterns from Rajasthan( India ), colourful stripes of reds and golden yellows from Oman to Kashmiri and Persian (Iran ) teardrop shaped booteh ,Indonesian Batik influences to African influences like Siwa rhino horn ,and cashewnut design.

PRODUCTION

Early Kanga designs were hand stamped ,using carved wooden blocks into a single piece of locally woven cloth.

Kangas were commonly produced in India, China ,Europe ,U.K.and Japan up until 1960’s when textile mills were set up in Kenya and Tanzania ,and in 1985 Tanzania became one of the largest producers of Kanga which was made of 100 percent pure cotton.

Today Kangas are produced in Kenya ,Tanzania,Oman ,India and Pakistan which are machine printed in bulk, China has recently become the largest producer of Kanga.

For more than 100 years it Kanga has remained one of the most popular of all cultural items across East Africa catering to the needs of millions of people living on the East African coast .

SWAHILI PRODUCT

Like art,dance,song ,poetry ,food and literature ,smart colourful clothes Kanga are key to Swahili Cultural Heritage .

Originally a product of the Swahili coastal communities ,the Kanga spread across Kenya and off the coast of Tanzania , today is known and used by millions on the east African coast by every woman ,child and man.

WAYS TO WEAR

Kanga garments are regarded as an essential item of a woman’s wardrobe in Swahili coast. It is a convenient garment for Swahili women not only because it fulfills Muslim requirements of modest covering but is also relatively cheap and affordable to women of all classes.

It is worn on a daily basis in and around homes and outside as well as on important occasions such as weddings and funerals.

Women wear kanga carrying babies on their backs ,as general wrap around to cover their bodies ,supporting loads carried on the head or back while at work and also often draped around head and shoulders acting as a modesty veil.

In short Swahili women wrap them around their bodies in diverse ways ,covering and using it in their day today lives,like a head scarf, as a baby sling ,rugs ,bedsheets ,mosquito nets ,in fact a Kanga is described as a ,”living artifact of the experience of women” .

MEANS OF COMMUNICATION

A number of behavioural attributes like( politeness ,discretion ,being quiet and gentle ,hospitable etc) are considered very important in Swahilil society, traditionally Muslim women are required to be soft spoken ,polite and be gentle ,through Kanga they challenge Islam’s guidelines for gender based decorum yet remain within it’s boundaries.

More than just a fabric ,it’s a means of communicating (direct or indirect )messages (personal /political,social,religious and aspirations )often in form of proverbs ,aphorisms ,metaphors or poetic phrase.

The proverbs printed on these garments communicate feelings and opinions that would be offensive if spoken aloud and women continue to challenge social,religious and political ideas within their society through these silent messages on their garments.

Kanga cloth documents the struggle of Swahili women of slave descent to assert the legitimacy of the claim to a free Swahili identity.

It acts as a vehicle that allows Swahili women to voice their concerns and express their opinions , one’s which cannot be overtly stated. In short women find a voice to address their concerns and challenge societal norms ,literally wearing what cannot be spoken.

EAST AFRICA’S SOCIAL MEDIA

Kanga speaks of both personal and public messages ,of Swahili joy ,love and sorrow ,inspired by folklore, short stories ,riddles, popular sayings, ambiguous meanings, children’s songs and quotes from the Holy Quran as well as Christmas greetings.

With snippets of wisdom these time honoured textiles serve as East Africa’s postcards ,love letters ,motivational slogans ,prayers or poigant rebuffs to the neighbourhood gossip,

These local East african traditional social media outlets something like twitter ,whatsapp or facebook on fabric ,is not only colourful but also vibrant to the eyes connecting people with wisdom and humour .

Swahili women love to express themselves through poetry ,many compose poems as hobby, Parkin (1988) observed that the lyrics from the Taraab (coastal music of the Swahili East Africa )also finds mention in these colourful garments .The messages contained in Kanga inscriptions and the sentiments expressed by Taraab singers was observed to be similar.

Swahili people do not just buy Kangas because of their colour or beauty but are mostly lured by it’s messages. It serves a dual purpose where women express themselves by dressing in beautiful fabric worth reading which are not only useful items of clothing but also vital means of communication.

SWAHILI SAYINGS

Swahili sayings were added to the Kanga by famous trader of Mombassa ,(Kenya )Kardedina Hajee Essak also known as Abdulla in the 1900’s .His many designs K.H.E Mali ya Abdulla often include proverb.

Photo credit : British Museum

At first the sayings ,aphorisms slogans were printed in Arabic script ,later in Roman letters .

There are noticeable regional differences for example most of the Kangas with mottos are made in Kenya ,while those which communicate community, social ,political events are more common in Tanzania .

WRITTEN SCRIPT

Photo credit :British Museum

The text on the Kanga were initially written in Swahili with Arabic Script ,from 1910- until 1950’s Swahili text on Kanga textiles appeared in both Arabic and Roman Script .

Photo credit :British Museum

Nowdays, Roman script is preferred to print Kangas that are produced in bulk by screen printing,they are printed in bold letters .

WEARING PROVERBS

Swahili proverbs are witty ,one liners that convey messages that are useful ,ambigious and sometimes full of meanings for people who read them .

It means ,”an evil person does not talk about his/her evil deeds ;he/she talks about other people’s evils”.

“Woman Environment “

The qualities of a mother are compassion and love .

USES

From the dusty streets of Africa to display on fashion weeks and modelling ramps ,Kanga has come a long way bridging a common piece of cloth to the luxurious brands for the rich and the famous.

Mustafa Hassanali is a popular local designer (who has organised the second Swahili Fashion Week in Dar E Salaam,Tanzania )promotes simple Kanga motifs into fashionable wear .

Alilinda Sawe whose label Afrika Sana meaning Uniquely Africa in Swahili showed off her new range of Kanga clothes.

Many fashion designers in East Africa have taken Kanga to another level and express fashion in European countries like Chilli Mango ,who have taken the beautiful Kanga designs on hoodies,sweat shirts ,pull overs etc.

This simple vibrant coastal cloth has travelled just like the ocean that visits it’s shores to places far and wide touching the lives of people and enriching their cultures

INNOVATIONS IN PATTERNS

New Kanga designs keep appearing in a variety of form from ,simple or intricate patterns abstract and homely patterns to famous attractions like monuments ,mountains ,wildlife and even pop stars .

Top image :Kanga cloth was made to celebrate 2006 election of U.S President Barack Obama ,Second image :Kanga from Kenya 2010 saying NIMECHAGUA or I have chosen for myself ,Third image :Kanga commemorating Pop star Michael Jackson ,Fourth image :Kanga from Tanzania with a landscape design 1960.

OF WEDDINGS AND FUNERALS

Kanga plays various roles in the different stages of Swahili society which includes birth to puberty ,through courtship and weddings, adulthood ,old age ,death and funerals.

During a Swahili wedding several Kangas are placed on the ground so that the bride may walk on them as she leaves the house. This is done so that she does not get dirty .The cloth also serves as a symbolic gift during marriage ceremonies in Kenya and Tanzania.

Traditional wedding Kanga is called Kisutu which is white,black and red in colour. It is often with no inscription, making it uniquely different from any other Kanga ,like the one posted below on display at the British Museum (London)

Wedding Kanga in the British Museum Collection.

Amongst the Muslims ,the Kanga is used for washing the deceased. Certain Kangas usually of the Kisutu crosses and tangerines patterns used specifically for praying in the Mosque.

These Kangas are often those which have previously been used at the funerals of women to cover the corpse ,while it is washed ,after which the Kangas are sent to the Mosque where they’re used by female worshippers who continue to bless and honour the deceased.

Kangas are also given to individuals who have lost their loved ones by those who came to console them.

IN BOOKS AND MUSEUMS

Books are a showcase of knowledge where the knowledge is distributed and becomes powerful by empowering and enlightening hearts and minds . Many books have been printed on Kanga motifs and patterns of East Africa some of the examples are given below .

MUSEUMS

Many prestigious museums of the world have Kanga fabrics displayed for public in their glistening glass shelves , promoting and spreading awareness about this unique cultural item of the East African Coast .

BRITISH MUSEUM ,LONDON

THE MET, NEW YORK

TEXTILE MUSEUM OF CANADA

KRUIZENGA ART MUSEUM

Kanga cloth with organisation of African Unity Design ,1970’s Kenya

ONLINE AND TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS

Many Universities and institutions have organised online exhibitions from time to time of the unique Kanga cloth for researchers and scholars of textiles.

Temporary Exhibitions

Temporary exhibitions are organised by institutions like Bellefonte Art Museum, Bristol Museum, National Museum of Kenya etc to throw light upon this unique cultural piece of cloth.

Royal Albert Memorial Museum and Art Gallery

TROPEN MUSEUM

Tropen Museum ,Amsterdam displayed 100 examples of Kanga cloth on display in it’s permises.

WELTKULTUREN MUSEUM

Kanga from Tanzania displayed in the National Museum of Kenya as part of celebrating 8th Anniversary of Kenya’s Independence from the Weltkulturen Museum Collection.

KANGA NOW

Contemporary Kanga cloth in crochet by Sarah Hawke ,National Maritime Museum (U.K )

Kanga cloth has been used for a variety of purposes useful for everyday use like outfits, as wall hangings,headpieces, bags, curtains,table- cloths, curtains, lamp shades ,seat -covers, pillow- covers,duvet- covers, towels , blankets and many more items of everyday uses.

For thousands of tourists visiting the East African coast for sunshine ,the Kanga acts as a holiday sarong or as a sheet to sun bathe .

CONCLUSION

For more than 100 years Kanga has remained one of the most popular of all cultural items across East Africa.

The multi functional vibrant and verbal art of Kanga garment is affordable as it binds like a thread to the rich and poor ,young and old ,the sayings that appear on a Kanga reflect Swahili cultural and human values that have stood the test of time and hopefully will always be ,because it is a Collage of Influences from various regions of the world which in itself is authentic and unique.

Photo Credit :British Museum

Above image shows ,”women power “,Kanga from Tanzania (2005) ,the text translates into, woman is the yeast for development ,it hangs famously in British Museum near the African galleries.

In the footsteps of Ahlul Bayt

Introduction

The Tragedy of Karbala ,is not just a piece of history but a living testament to the level of indecent ,barbaric behaviour any human being is capable of achieving .It opens a window into our souls to search deeply ,where we stand .

Every year Majlis  (congregrations) are held during the months of Muharram and Safar not only to honour the sacrifice of Imam Hussain but also to remind our selves of the values he stood and for the  falsehood  he rejected even if it costed him his life and family to upkeep the True Face of Islam .

The tragedy does’nt simply ends with the brutal murder of Imam Hussain and his 72 follower’s (who were forcibly kept thirsty for three days cutting their supply from the water source Nehr E Furat  to put them under pressure to give into Yazid’s devious plans ) rather the tragedy starts from Karbala from where this Caravan (of looted women and children and one male member Imam Zainul Abedin )walk as a trophy for tyrant Yazid basking and boasting upon his so called victory over the family of the Holy Prophet and putting him under the leadership of Muslims .

My article will try to follow the footsteps of the caravan of Karbala, what they endured ,it’s result and where we stand today…..a prelude to my previous article.

                                           WHY WOMEN

Women have made contribution to society even in the capacity of their homes, they are designed by nature to bring up their children guiding them and instilling them with the right values ,all the great men in the world have owed their success to their Mothers .

Islamic history has been filled with such charismatic women who have been amazing Mother’s and successful in their respective fields , business women such as Bibi Khatija (wife of Prophet Muhammad),Bibi Fatima and her daughter Bibi Zainab were scholars and took classes from their homes .

The First University in the World (named University of Al -Qarawiyyin ) ,preceding Europen Universities was established by Tunisian born  Fatima al-Fahirya in 859 A.D in Fez,Morocco  according to UNESCO and Guinness Book of World Records making it the oldest higher educational institute on the planet founded by a Muslim woman .

WOMEN OF KARBALA

The brave and resilient women of Karbala have shown the world their strength of character and firm belief in truth, without their contribution and sacrifice the Mission of Imam Hussain would never have seen the light of the day.

 The amount of terrorism and humiliation these noble ladies were subjected to needs to be highlighted because today the same indecent behaviours against women having been taking place throughout the world ,in homes ,at work , in society ,villages, towns ,cities, and countries at large even as I write…………

                      IN SEARCH OF SABAYA ROAD

                              WORD

The word Sabaya is plural of Arabic word Sa’abi or Prisoners, in Urdu it’s  Qaidi ,hence Path of the Prisoners.

The treacherous road undertaken by the Prisoners of Karbala  is today known as Sabaya Road ,it is 1400km long and in present world it’s area covers and passes through atleast Four countries, (Iraq,Turkey ,Lebanon and Syria)

This Caravan of prisoners was not an ordinary one ,it included the best and noble ladies and children of the household of the chosen family of Prophet Muhammad pbuh.

The unforgiving terrain decided by Yazid’s army to take the prisoners of Karbala  was intentionally undertaken for a longer route from Karbala to Kufa and then to Damascus  (which was the seat of power ,the capital of the Umayyad empire) in order to give maximum pain and suffering to the holy family of Prophet Muhammad.

           THE TORTURE AND OPPRESSION

Criss-crossing the intense heat of the Arabian desert and still mourning their loved ones, bewildered and harassed these noble souls either walked or or were made to sit on camel humps without saddles, so many children lost their lives along the way by slipping and falling down from the barren height of the camel in the desert .

Sabaya Road  is filled up with graves of brave ladies and little ones who died either thirsty, , terrorised with fear of what they witnessed or falling from height in the intense desert heat .

                            THE  TORTURE

Bibi Sakina, the beloved daughter of Imam Hussain was slapped on the face if she cried missing her father it was delibrately done to give maximum emotional pain to the honourable ladies ,such was the cowardly acts of the evil forces that they would give water to their animals first then would the children of the holy family get to drink water along the treacherous way .

Such inhuman cowardly tactics have been applied to torture in the Battle of Karbala and it’s aftermath that forever it would create a bench mark that falsehood no matter how powerful it is would always feel threatened by truth that it would stoop to such lowest ebb to claim it’s share but truth no matter how much pain and suffering it goes through would always be victorious ……..

The saga of tyranny does’nt end here ,the Ahlul bayt were subjected to the most inhuman torture ,in one raw rope were tied the necks of all women and children which meant that the women had to bend their bodies so that children don’t get choked with the pressure on their necks.

Like hard core criminals these noble women and children were bound in iron chains on their hands and feet ,projecting to everyone who saw them along the way , the severity of their crime (which was nothing except standing for truth ).

Imam Zainul Abedin (who was sick during the Battle of Karbala ) was made to wear a collar which had spikes on the neck ,in order to bring physical torture to him along with the emotional turmoil he was going through that time.

Similar to the image down below ,the inhuman torture these noble souls were subjected to speaks volumes to the grave threat and danger society was facing around that time under the corrupt rule of tyrant Yazid.

The Alaw E Sar Tauq ( Alawa of Shackles ) Hyderabad ,India is a shrine dedicated to a small piece of the original spiked collar worn by Imam Zainul Abedin in his tumultuous journey after the Battle of Karbala.The piece is embedded in the holy Alam dedicated to Imam Zainul Abedin .

Terrorised and tortured the noble women and children who were yet to come to terms to the atrocities their loved ones encountered in the plains of Karbala , wailing, mourning and still in grief over the loss of their loved ones ,were paraded as prisoners  as a prized trophy with the only surviving male of the family Imam Zainul Abedin who was sick, and was made to walk or sit on camel back behind the noble ladies with their heads barren and handcuffed in thick iron chains with faces of their loved ones placed on spears as a prized booty.

                                OPPRESSION

This caravan of bewildered woman and children was paraded to small cities,villages ,towns and capitals of the Umayyad empire as a Show of Strength by the evil army of Yazid who were intoxicated for the worldly gifts they would recieve from the treasury of Yazid for the murdering the family of the Holy Prophet of Islam .

These prisoners were ridiculed and humiliated with people mocking at their pitiable conditions,people threw hot boiling water and fire ,clapping and cheering with their hands ,making fun and cursing ,throwing pebbles and stones ,hurling abuses ,these noble souls were made to stand in slave markets along the way ,because they were paraded under false propoganda that a ,”Rebel has risen against the Empire”.

(What Ahlul bayt went through,it is really difficult for our hearts to understand the depth of their pain and suffering for they were no ordinary human beings ,they were from the best noble backgrounds from the last Messenger of God ,a family who were the pure chosen ones .)

Yet speaking up for what was Right was in their blood and the noble ladies did that exactly ,from explaining what they underwent, the atrocities they faced ,telling people who they were , their lineage , what they saw and what happened to their family in the Battle of Karbala whenever the situation arised and demanded .

The only weapon they had with themselves was Truth and it was strongest among’st the cloud of wrong doer’s who were intoxicated with their worldly victory .

                   TRUTH BE TOLD…….

In this digital age where there is excess of unfiltered information ,people can easily be manipulated and sometimes fall under false propaganda  ,whereas fourteen( 14) centuries ago writing was the only medium of communication ,and the event of  Karbala had scribes mainly from Yazid’s side of the party,  boasting the strength and power of their ruler , whatever we know of the battlefield  is either from these scribes ,or from Mukhtar al -Thakafi who took the revenge of martyrs of Karbala after he escaped from imprisonment of Ibn Ziyad the corrupt ruler of  Kufa in the aftermath of  Imam Hussain’s martydom .

                      MOUNTAIN OF PATIENCE

Bibi Zainab’s role was very crucial in this event because she was not only the eye witness to the tragic event  but also the wholesole  in-charge of ladies and children of the doomed caravan .

It is said that such was the trauma she endured that on the day of Ashura i.e.10th Muharram witnessing her beloved son’s,nephew’s and brother’s brutally massacred  without food and water in the plains of Karbala ,that extreme emotional trauma and mental torture made her hair turn into white…….. such was the level of harrasment  these brave noble women endured.

Bibi Zainab’s powerful sermons delivered in the court of ruler Ibn- Ziyad in Kufa ,(Iraq) and Yazid Damascus, (Syria) were powerful enough to unmask the evil plans of Yazid and shake the foundations of his empire ,where upon fearing conflict and revolt in his empire Yazid had to sent these prisoners back to their native homeland in Medina now (Saudi Arabia).

                       KARBALA AND TODAY

The hot unforgiving heat of the desert terrain of Arabia would have been a torturous journey for the caravan of  brave ladies ,still coming to terms with the horrific crimes committed in front of them ,from the brutal martyrdom of their loved ones to seeing the necks chopped from their bodies and put on spears would have been such a heartbreaking traumatic experience for them.

AND  NOW……

Irony is these crimes against humanity is still taking place even as we enter into the realms of modern age ,techniques adopted to terrorize people have been adopted by terrorist organisations such as  ISIS, Daesh ,Taliban etc , they have opted these techniques to instill fear into the hearts of all those who oppose them ,and like Yazid they claim to follow Islam ,they use it’s name to cover their false and evil intentions ,garb it on the surface not the least in spirit ,in fact completely opposite of what Islam teaches …..

                     QUALITY OVER QUANTITY

They say ,picture speaks a thousand words ,the above map of the battlefield at Karbala speaks volumes to the level of barbarism that was followed ,(where a small caravan of men ,women and children is intercepted ,pressurised and denied a basic human right water),a place where Imam Hussain ,his followers and family were denied water for three days , to pressurize them to give in to the demands of tyrant Yazid , to which Imam Hussain firmly refused .

Imam Hussain and his family and followers were ,Small in numbers compared to the  Huge army of Yazid who were powerful and much better equipped yet………………… in the end it was the Victory of Truth.

AND NOW……

History repeats itself and it still has ,the rightful followers are still in small numbers compared to the large number who have both money and power to spread hatred and murder humanity.

                 FIGHT AGAINST OPPRESSION

Just like their counterparts did Fourteen (14 )centuries ago (who did not spare the little innocent children including the infant 4 month old Hazrat Ali Asghar ),same way the so called terrorist organisations have soft targets like women and children whom they misuse ,bully and emotionally try to destroy them.

AND NOW….

The brave children and ladies of Karbala inspire such women who not only face atrocities during wars in their country but also in their day- today lives where they face zulm (oppression) either from in -laws and their families ,or husbands …..

Whatever oppression and injustice they faced these noble souls never gave up on what was right.

Why we mourn the tragedy of Karbala? Well it is to remind us the greatest sacrifice on earth given by the  children of Prophet Muhammad’s family to safeguard human values ,they held such esteemed positions and were such noble characters that if they would have prayed the sky and the earth would have opened their treasures for them,yet they remained patient and steadfast in face of oppression just to give inspiration to mortals souls like us who can count on them as our Role Models ,our Inspiration in this transient journey called life…….

Role of Women in Karbala

(Contributions of the women in the tragedy of Karbala )

Introduction 

Islam asserts the Rights of Women, such is the position given to women that in it’s holy book the Holy Qu’ran a whole chapter is named Surah An Nisa or the Women .The Holy Qu’ran asserts that Men and Women have equal dignity .

A woman is a completely independent personality and is entitled to inherit in her position as a mother,wife ,sister and daughter. She has perfect liberty to live a happy ,honourable life .

The pagan society of pre -Islamic Arabia had an irrational prejudice against their female children whom they used to bury alive .

Prophet Muhammad (pbuh)  upheld the cause of women especially  widows and most of his wives were widows .He married an independent and chaste lady Bibi Khadija from whom he had a daughter Fatima .

Bibi Fatima was epitome of being a perfect daughter ,wife and a mother .It is through Bibi Fatima’s sons Hasan and Hussain the lineage of the last Prophet of Islam goes through. Shia’s follow the Bloodline especially the Itna Ashari ( The Twelvers)  although there are various sub groups within the Shia community that includes Khoja, Bohras,Ismailis ,Zaidis etc .

                            MUHARRAM 

Muharram is the month in which the Battle of Karbala was fought ,it is a time of reflection and remembrance especially by Shia Muslims on the tragic events of the Battle of Karbala  fought in the hot desert plains  of Karbala (Iraq)  680 CE, during which Imam Hussain and his small band of 72 followers were martyred by the forces of ruling Caliph Yazid .

Yazid was all that which was against Islamic morals ,a corrupt yet powerful leader of this age, all he wanted was Bayt of Imam Hussain  to consolidate his position as the Rightful leader of the Muslims  to which Imam Hussain firmly opposed and did not approve .

In his intoxication for power and arrogance Yazid hatched an evil plan to murder Imam Hussain during Hajj which was foiled and  Imam Hussain  had to convert it to Umrah as he never wanted  blood shed in the House of God (Kaaba).

                                    BATTLE OK KARBALA 

Despite the risks involved Imam Hussain took his whole family including his wives,children ,sisters and relatives on the way towards Karbala((Iraq) where he was forcibly surrounded by the evil forces of Yazid and pressurised again to give in to their demands to which Imam Hussain firmly refused.

He took his family along because Imam Hussain  knew that the  noble women of his household (Ahlul Bayt ) would play a very important role after the Tragedy of Karbala especially his sister Bibi Zainab  whom he  assigned the task of taking care of women and children after his martyrdom.

Bibi Zainab  played a very crucial role in bringing to light the atrocities subjected to Imam Hussain ,his women and children in the after math of the gruesome battle of Karbala .

 

The Battle of Karbala has a Universal Appeal ,it is unlike any other battles fought in the history of mankind which were basically fought for either land ,treasures or women ,the battle of Karbala is unique in the sense that it was fought to upkeep Human Rights and Values, a battle between truth and falsehood and amongst it’s martyrs were not only men but women and children too.

                       WOMEN OF SUBSTANCE  

It is worth mentioning the fact that both men and women of the Prophet’s household  played a significant role in this battle wherein men displayed their physical strength while ,women stood behind each one of them in supporting their leader Imam Hussain (they were mother’s ,daughters ,nieces and relative) and each one of them  displayed tremendous strength of character that history has mentioned them in golden words .

These noble ladies saw their men (brothers,nephews ,children and relations )brutally murdered right  before their very eyes, harassed without food and water ,their tents burned and terrorised by the 3 lakh plus forces of the evil army of Yazid .

Although they lost their protectors and hope yet they kept their values and dignity intact,These noble ladies sacrificed all that they had (in terms of worldly possessions )to upkeep the  Truth and surrender themselves to the will of God.

  “SALAAM KHAK NASHEENO PE SOGWAROEN KA “

This Solemn Salaam is recited every year in honour of the women and children of Imam Hussain’s camp on the night of Ashura (10 Muharram )which is also called Shaam e Gharibaan or night of mourners ,this salaam pays tribute to the helplessness of these noble ladies and their children .

                     EXEMPLARY CHILDREN 

Even the little children  of Imam Hussain’s camp were brave and strong  in their character . Without food and water for three days in the hot desert plains of Karbala ,these children showed immense patience and resilience for there is no mention throughout history  that anyone of them ran away or even begged for water .

Infact they were willing to sacrifice their lives to upkeep truth and save Islam from falsehood worth mentioning are Aun(8) and Muhammad (7) ,(son’s of Bibi Zainab), Janab Qasim (14) years (son of Imam Hasan )and many more .

All this throws light on the fact the tarbiyat (values ) imparted by the noble ladies to these honourable children and  how well they were brought up under their mother’s guidance and upbringing . These brave children can role models and inspiration for  generations to come.

History has recorded different statistics regarding the number of ladies and children in the caravan to Karbala ,Sheikh Abbas Qummi  (a renowned Shia scholar) states around 20 ladies and children ,while a prominent book Maali -us -Sibtain records around 42 of them ,whatever the figures show it is important to note that many children lost their lives in Karbala ,especially the infant suckling son of Imam Hussain’s camp Hazrat Ali Asghar (4months old) ,who was so thirsty that the Holy Imam had to ask the evil forces to give water to the thirsty infant for which the answer came in the form of an arrow( the one that was used to kill wild beasts and animals).

Such was the audacity that was employed by the evil forces that they did not spare even the infant child of the holy household.  In their thirst for worldly goods they forgot to differentiate between right  and wrong and committed the most heinous crimes in the history of mankind.

These noble ladies  bravely face  and bore patiently the innumerable atrocities hurled upon them by the evil forces of Yazid .

After the battle of Karbala these noble ladies and children were taken prisoners and kept as prisoners in the dungeons of Yazid’s palace ,the trauma the little minds endured in the wake of oppression resulted in irreparable casualities especially  Imam Hussain’s most special and beloved daughter Bibi Sakina ,who  passed away at the tender age of 4 years in the darkrooms of those prisons lamenting  her homeland ,her beloved brother’s  and loving father Imam Hussain .

The role of women and children is crucial in the tragedy of Karbala because it throws light on the fact that women of Prophet Muhammad’s family (Ahlul -Bayt ) were capable of turning the tide towards the right path.

They exposed the evil face of the enemy giving idea to the thought we should not surrender ourselves to zulm ( oppression ) in any form be it physical or emotional .

 UMM Al MASAIB (Mountain of Patience )

                             Bibi Zainab 

“Guzar gayi dil e Zainab pe kya Khuda jaane “,

These lines of a noha recited every year throws light on the insurmountable pain and suffering the daughter of Imam Ali and Bibi Fatima ,Bibi Zainab underwent during and after the event of Karbala ,which no one can even fathom to think .

She sacrificed her two sons ,saw the massacre of her young nephews, loving brother’s and her most precious beloved brother (Imam Hussain) on the day of Ashura .After the massacre , she was cursed ,humiliated ,she and the noble ladies head coverings( hijab )were snatched by the evil forces and they were taken captive on camel back ,walking and mourning their loved ones in the unforgiving heat and desert of the 1,000 km long distance .

Marching through small towns , villages, capitals and cities where the prisoners( that included women and children) were paraded under the ,false propaganda ,that a rebel has risen against the empire “,Bibi Zainab unmasked the enemy by speaking truth along the way .

Her powerful sermons addressed in the court of Yazid and Ibn Ziyad shook the foundations of Yazid’s empire, fearing rebellion Yazid was forced to release the captives to their native place Medina (now Saudi Arabia ).

Bibi Zainab played a key role in supporting Imam Hussain and his family for the sake of upkeeping human values ,it is she who universalized the message of Husaini Revolution and laid the foundation of mourning which is still observed during Muharram throughout the world .

The Astane Hussaini ( Management of Imam Hussain Shrine ) at Karbala Iraq ,has proposed a project to revive this ancient route taken 1400 years ago by family of the Holy Prophet (Ahlul Bayt ) crossing 4 Countries  this 1000 km, treacherous route from Karbala (Iraq)to Damascus ( Syria ) 

This route was walked by the prisoners of Karbala (including women and children) wherein so many children lost their lives along the way.

Although the project is still in pipeline it aims to identify,discover and revive the works of Ahlul Bayt and highlight the role of women in the spreading of rightful teachings of Islam through their sacrifice and struggle.

                     LESSONS LEARNED

” Kull yawm Ashura wa Kull ard Karbala “,or “Every land is Karbala ,Every day is Ashura “,this quote attributed to the  (Imam Jaffer Sadiq, the sixth Imam ) signifies that the battle between good and evil will go on and isn’t limited to any time or place .

If we reflect  into the messages of Karbala and analyze the tragedy it has deep and very profound messages for humanity .

Teachings that can be  applied to make human beings co -exist and live in harmony ,tolerance and peace ,no wonder that millions who recognise the Supreme sacrifice of the Imam Hussain  flock to his  mausoleum in Karbala (Iraq) to pay their tributes especially during Arbaeen or 40th day after Ashura .

Though not much has been highlighted about it but Arbaeen has been acknowledged as the largest peaceful march on Earth with 20 million people flocking to the holy shrine irrespective of their caste,colour,religion ,the young ,old disabled ,injured and patients all walk towards the holy shrine breaking the borders of human bondages and pledge their allegiance to the holy Imam for standing against oppression ,resilience in face of terrorism ,patience in adversity, humility, giving preference to the needs of others ,speaking and supporting the truth……….and countless many more teachings that are beneficial for becoming a just society.

Karbala teaches us how to live together as a family unit with the young respecting the needs of elders and elders loving and blessing them in return .

Sadly these values and traditions are disappearing from the modern world as such it is  important for us to revive them for our children and nothing can be more effective than narrating stories from history and the story of Karbala is powerful enough to empower young hearts and minds .

The brave ladies of Imam Hussain’s camp showed to the world that a woman’s role is not only defined within the four walls of a house if need arises she can bring about necessary revolution in the society for it’s betterment ,like Bibi Zainab who became an instrument to unmask the evil face of the enemy and speak the truth.

The noble ladies (Ahlul Bayt ) role was exemplary as it showed how bold and educated  Muslim women were fourteen centuries ago and how they consolidated the rightful  Islamic teachings with their sacrifice and conduct.

In the study of Karbala we come across many magnanimous women who rose to support truth with perfect sincerity inspite of being oppressed and tortured ,their names and their contributions have found mention in history and will remain as long as humanity is alive .

The inner conscience of a man is the spirit of God within him it helps in differentiating between right and wrong.The tragedy of Karbala is powerful enough to trigger human emotions and deeply move even hard hearted human beings . A true Hussaini would never harm any human being (physically or emotionally),animals or for that matter any of God’s creation .

                           DEDICATION 

I consider myself as a very small entity amongst the  Mountain of Strength the brave and noble ladies of Prophet Muhammad’s household (Ahlul Bayt ) portrayed before of us in wake of the Tragedy of Karbala. I dedicate my writing and it is my humble tribute to their strength,endurance and patience in face of terrorism and tyranny ,displayed in it’s worst form the humanity has ever seen.

“Karbala jab bhi yaad aayegi,insaniyat sharmayegi “,(whenever the saga of Karbala is remembered, humanity would bow it’s head in shame )

Acknowledgements 

My sincere tributes to Bibi Umme Kulsum (sister of Bibi Zainab and Imam Hussain ),Bibi Fizza ,Bibi Ummul Baneen (mother of Hazrat Abbas ),Bibi Rabab (mother of Hazrat Ali Asghar),brave ladies of Bani Asad tribe who were instructed by Imam Hussain to bury the bodies of martyrs of Karbala ,he purchased the land from them and gave it back to them again and to all those sincere and brave ladies and children who lost their purpose and lives for the Will of God.

We will not let humanity forget your names …….

Picture credit : Jaunpur Azadari.com 

Picture from Amari procession Badagaon (Jaunpur) India dated 1965.These have Amari or palanquins on camel backs that are annually taken out in memory of the caravan of Karbala that returned from the prison’s of Yazid in Damascus (Syria) to Medina (Saudi Arabia ) .

Food on the Palm:Mapping the wonders of Palm leaf.

Introduction :

Palm trees have been an ornamental feature from Mesopotamia times .This ancient  plant variety has been cultivated for about 5,000years.

A total of more than 2,600 species are avaiable that thrive in tropical rainforests and arid regions .

Each variety has distinctive leaves  that have many uses associated with them .Palm Leaves are usually called Fronds, that are uniquely shaped,durable and sturdy.

Facts about Palm Leaves

In some cultures Palm leaves are used as serving platter or to decorate tables.

They can also be used to garnish other food items after trimming them to desirable size.

In Hawaii ,a large underground oven is used to cook meat for celebration.Palm and Banana leaves are used in the oven to create steam and protect meat from burning .

Palm leaves are used in official seals and flags of several countries like Saudi Arabia ,Haiti etc 

In several Middle Eastern countries ,Palms represent Hospitality.

Bahrain is a country of One Million Palm Trees.

According to Botany Palm trees are not actually trees but a type of grass.

The Evergreen Tree

Palm trees are a kind of evergreen tree.Trees that keep their foilage the whole year round.They are part of the family Arecaceae and are defined by their stems that showcase large ,wavy leaves.

The Date palm ( Phoenix dactylifera) is typically found in deserts,dry temperate climates of the world especially Middle East since it can bear high temperature ,drought and salinity more than any other fruit produce plant species.

The Palm is quite an attractive plant species which is grown for ornamental purposes in heritage structures, homes and offices.

How it is made 

Palm leaves are dried then cut into thin strips using a fingernail and then woven in different shapes.The strips are softened by soaking them in water and in times of drought the palm leaf is soaked in camel milk.

Products of Palm leaf (frond) weaving 

Necessity is the mother of inventions ,and the variety of products which Palm frond weaving crosses all borders and nations .From Glass holders,beautiful Sieves,Mats ,dinner cases,palm bags,pouches for betelnut,(hotpots,saltpots,baskets and mats) made from Mazri Palm .

Mats used for various purposes like drying grains,performing prayers,sitting and sleeping.

Al-Surood is a mat shaped tray to protect food  from insects  and to serve food on the floor and hung up afterwards to keep them flat.

Maghta -cover for food (large conical had,used locally to cover food trays )

Khasef -basket to hold dates

Haseer -rug to sit on 

Gargour- dome shaped fishing cage 

The best type of Safeefah (Khoos) Palm frond weave was known to be made in Dibba Oman.

Water container and bowls made to store camel milk are made from Palm fronds .

UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Heritage Of Humanity 

Date Palm Culture has been central to life across the Middle East  and North Africa for a millenia. Revered in Art,Poetry,Literature and Holy Texts .It is considered a Tree Of Life as everything from it’s fruit ,to trunk and leaves has been utilised.

UNESCO awarded Representative List  in 2019  to Date palm Knowledge,skills and traditional practices to Saudi Arabia,Bahrain ,Egypt,UAE,Iraq,Jordan,Kuwait,Morocco,Mauritania,Oman,Palestine ,Sudan ,Tunisia and Yemen 

Palmeral Of Elche (Spain )

 

UNESCO World Heritage Site of  Palmeral or (Palm Grove )of Elche (Spain) is the artificial Oasis the surrounds the historic town of Elche on the Mediterranian Coast of the Iberian Peninsula.It is made up of 67orchards containing 45,000 palm trees spread in 144 hectres .

Enlisted in UNESCO World Heritage List in 2000, El Palmeral (Palm Grove ) is considered the Largest Palm grove in Europe.

Palmeria (mapping the craft )

Africa and Middle East 

Basketry and Mat making  from the Continent of Africa ,South Asia ,South -East Asia and Middle Eastern Countries has been considered the ancient and oldest professions still practiced today in the modern world ,especially in traditional markets .

Role Of Women

Women have been practicing Palm leaf weaving for a real long time,their sensitive nature and delicate hands weave the fronds into exquisite pieces,giving them Wings of Creativity from the monotony of their household chores.

Within the confines of their homes women would weave baskets  (to store ,jewellery,spices and herbs ),bowls ( to store camel milk ),mats (for sleeping and placing food trays ) and bags to be carried by camels.

The woven handicraft takes up a lot of time to make so women usually devote their time during the day to complete their chores and leave the task of weaving for the afternoon.

Palm leaves can be dyed naturally in different  colours like ,Purple,Green and Red . 

Of  Baskets and Mats 

 

Mkeka (Swahili Mat)

Mkeka is a Swahili mat that most people use it during lunch and dinner time.

Traditionally  the residents of East  coast of Africa love to use Mkeka mat for prayers or when they are having meals . They decorate their homes or carry Mkeka to picnics .

Mesob

The Mesob is a basket made from locally grown and potentially dried Palm leaves and straw on which traditional dishes and cuisines are served in Ethiopia and Erietia.

With it’s fluted cone top ,it allows to trap  the steam of the piping hot dish ,thereby making the dish tender and bring out it’s natural flavours .

It is widely depicted as the ,cultural symbol of Ethiopia and Eritrea.

The Amharic word ,Mesob means Bread Basket .It’s an intensely communal way to eat and also to experience a wide variety of kitchen’s offerings .

Mesob’s come in many a variety of shapes and sizes ,smaller ones are called Mudai (it can be decorative or can be used to store household items ) .Large Mesob’s play the role of dinner table in a more traditional Ethiopian home .

 

The more colourful Mesob the more time and craft goes into making it ,the largest one’s can take several months to make .

The basketry of Ethiopia’s Harar region is considered elegant and beautiful.

Tuareg (Sahara) and Nubians (Egypt,Sahel )

The Tuareg tribe famously known as the Blue Men of  the Sahara  are nomadic tribes of the Sahara desert dependent upon the Palm tree  for their survival .The  Nubian (Egypt) weavers create exquisite baskets by wrapping palm leaf fibres around a coil of papyrus ,then stitching the coils together.

Berber (Libya ,Tunisia)

Berber baskets have been originally used to store flatbreads or Khobz in Morocco and rice .They are braided by hands in different parts of Morocco mainly in the South.

With the influx of tourists and rise of tourism industry in Morocco especially from Europe and United States,these exquisite baskets have been put into a variety of uses like decorative items,plant pots ,storage basket in bathroom etc.

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Saudi Arabia 

In traditional Saudi family network,palm leaf weave has an important role to play ,it is used on the floor ,for serving food ,dates etc .

Oman

Weaving palm fronds is one of the traditional Omani handicraft used since ancient times.The Governate of Musandan is renowed for it’s palm leaf industry .

Al-Surood is a mat shaped tray which is also known as Sama.

Haseer mats are traditional handwoven mats made from Date Palm leaves and Wadi Reeds  in Oman .The craftsmen who create these exquisite mats are now dwindling in number.

Al Khous (UAE)

Al Khous (weaving palm frond)is a part of UAE’s ancestral heritage and one of the oldest craft still practised in UAE’s remote areas and urban landscapes.

Iraq

In Iraq the palm tree has been the lifeline of many craftsmen who have woven exquisite design into daily used items like mats and baskets from dried palm leaves .

Their food mat is known as Tabak (a large circular plate for holding bread )the mahya (deep container for conservation of dates )and colourful hasira mats .

Iran 

The palm tree is sacred ,it is also interpreted as a sign of frienship ,peace and prosperity in Persian cultural myths .Iran is the second largest producer of Dates followed by Egypt.

Baskets called Kapou-Bafi is made from palm fronds in the Khouzestan Province and goods like fibre boxes ,ground clothes called Sis-Bafi in Boushehr Province are the traditional handicrafts of the region.

SOUTH ASIA and SOUTH -EAST ASIA 

India 

Palm leaf weaving clusters in India include Northern States of Haryana( where the craft was introduced by the women of  Multani speaking Audh community) ,Allahabad (Uttar Pradesh)and Lucknow Districts .

The Palmyra Palm grows in abundance along the Southern Coastline of the Indian Peninsular from Cochin to Madras .

Tamil Nadu 

Natural dried palm leaves(Panai-olai) are used in making baskets ,Pulicat is a fishing town on the Coromandel Coast of Tamil Nadu State.

The basket weaving in the town is done mostly by  Muslim women from the villages dotted with Palm trees ,coconut ,date and palmyra trees.They formed a co-operative of Palm -Leaf Artisans in 1958.

Kottan Baskets 

Kottan baskets are made from Palmyra leaves and were traditionally made by the Aachis of Chettinadu.Old Kottan baskets were an important part of various rituals and were used for everyday use ,with time Kottans decorated with beadwork and crochet slowly stopped being made.

A variety of products are being made using Kottans which include fruit baskets,baskets ,flower vase etc.The baskets are as storage as well as decoration items .

Kottan products were awarded UNESCO Seal of Excellence in 2004.

Areca Palm Leaf Craft of Karnataka 

The betel palm is a species of palm which is widely grown across the Pacific,Asia and several parts of East Africa .

The craft of making articles from Areca Palm leaf is practiced widely in the state of Karnataka .The tree is grown widely in the Western Ghats region of the State.It is a flourishing craft in Southern Karnataka.

Items such as cups,plates and saucers are crafted from the leaf,besides being economical it is also ecologically feasible as the cups and plates used to serve food act as an alternative to paper and plastic items that are harmful not only  to the environment but are not easily degradable .

Pakistan 

Lok Virsa ,Islamabad (Pakistan )display of wide variety of baskets and boxes.

Baluchistan (Pakistan ) tribal people depend on the Mazri variety (Dwarf Palm)of date palms to make their dwellings,kitchen utensils ,bags ,mats and food .

The people from interior regions of Sindh make exquisite handicrafts from dry palm fronds like this Fruit basket from Sartyoon Sang Crafts Enterprise  an NGO working for uplifting the craftsperson and their crafts.

Sri Lanka 

The palm tree in Sri lanka is also known as the Katpaham or the Wish giving tree ,it provides 800 products ;pulp,sap,leaf,fibre and timber of the palm are all used .The palm tree grows abundantly in North and Eastern Provinces of Sri Lanka ,where it is hot and humid .

 

Indikola Palm

Popular products made out of Indikola are the traditional hambiliya or coin purse,cigar purse and betel purse.

Bangladesh /West -Bengal 

Photo credit :Wikipedia 

Khujer Patar Pati or Date Palm leaf has been used as traditional furniture in rooms for sitting and sleeping in Bangladesh and West Bengal,it was part of the Cultural Heritage of the villages of Bengal but fell out of use.

Used for religious purposes such as Hindu wedding ceremonies,as well as function as Jainamaz for Muslims to pray ,the evergreen Palm tree served everyone’s need.

SOUTH -EAST ASIA 

Phillipines

The multicoloured ,eye- candy mat of the Phillipines is known as the Banig .It is a traditional handwoven mat of the Philipines made of Buri (palm ),pandamus or reed leaves

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The Palm (Then and Now)

Palm leaf craft is as old as the ancient civilizations themselves……….a craft born out of necessity and utility.Taking inspiration from the past and taking furture to the future Khalid Shafar (UAE based furniture designer)  has designed his range of modern day furniture to the Palm tree of his childhood.

The Palm Collection is a Coffee Table line that reflects the Palm Tree from the material to the shape .The Palm Collection Series is now one of his Signature design style ,incorporating everything that the Palm tree represents to his people and the region.

Museum,Exhibitions and Festivals 

Woven palm frond and rush baskets ,Yemen (Yemenite Jewish Heritage Centre ,Israel)

Water Basket made from Palm leaf ,(Museum Number 1884.7.70)housed in Pitts River Museum,Oxford University 

Western Australian Museum ,East Timor Left :An open top basket with a hexagonal shape .Constructed from palm leaf ,traditionally used for display fruits,vegetables and other goods in an open manner.Right :Palm leaf box with lid from Mynammar (Burma)

Palm handmade products on display at Met Museum ,New York 

Palm Frond Product Exhibition in Saudi Arabia ,Trade fair held in Egypt 

Various exhibitions ,fairs and festivals organised at  regular intervals from time to time also go a long way into promoting this handicraft and provide livelihood to the craftsmen.

Ammajaan’s Pitara 

As a little girl I would sneak a peek into Ammajaan’s (maternal grandmother) well kept and sturdy wooden almirah ,which had all her valuables  neatly arranged and organised. After Ammajaan’s death in 2013 my youngest Aunt (Baby Khala)gave me one of Ammajaan’s prized possessions, her palm box which Ammajaan lovingly called her ,Pitara .This Pitara had Khaak-e shifa ( soil from Imam Hussain’s holy grave,tasbeeh,sijdigah and other holy relics)which she lovingly kept and cared for.

I have kept it safely in the same manner as I found it honouring her deep love for faith and culture .The design and the style of the Pitara reminds me so much of the different styles of basketry and mat making I’ve tried to capture in this article .

Though not in person but in spirit she still continues to guide me and join the dots ………

Conclusion :

Although the wonders and uses of Palm leaf weaving is immence ,it’s use in the culinary traditions  (both in cooking and tableware) throughout the Muslim world is unmatched ,though known by different names it serves more or less the same purpose for everyone.

The Palm mat represents, simple living and high thinking ,where people shared their joys and sorrows together in simple yet graceful settings,because eating on the floor is one of the Prophetic traditions or Sunnah followed by Muslims.It has a scientific logic behind it and that is , sitting in this position while eating helps in improving digestion in the bodies.

This logic has been applied  by ancient Indian texts  backed by the Science of Ayurveda and Yoga teachings ,because our forefathers realised the Science behind eating and it’s impact on our health much before the dining tables and the western concept of eating came into being .

Alhambra Revisited

Introduction :

The palace /fort of Alhambra, Spain has intrigued travellers, writers and poets from around the world, they’ve been captivated by it’s alluring beauty and  deep sense of aesthetics. 

Considered as one of the top tourist destination in Spain , a Masterpiece of Islamic Architecture in Europe , the Alhambra attracts more than 3  million visitors a year , making it one of the most visited monument in Spain 

                      Word

The word Alhambra, comes from the Arabic word, Al Hamra meaning the Red One, because of the predominant red colour seen from afar is probably derived from the reddish colour of the tapia (rammed earth) of which the outer walls were built . 

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It was originally constructed as a small fortress in the 8th century and was enlarged by the Nasrid dynasty in the 13th century. 

It is constructed on top of a hill  plateau known as Al -Sabika ,that overlooks the city of Granada . The river Darro flows through the left bank of Alhambra , bridging the city’s two magical hills (on which the Alhambra and Albayzin are built) 

During the Nasrid era, the Alhambra was a self contained city, seperated from the rest of Granada below.

An Imperial city built for the rulers and designed to meet the needs of the Palace and it’s inhabitants, contained most of the amenities of a Muslim city such as Friday Mosque,Medina (shops),Hammams (public baths), ,Madrassa  (educational institutions), cisterns ,public buildings  and even a Cemetery. 

From Arab hands to Christians

In 1492 , the city surrendered itself to the Catholic Monarchs who later modified the city according to their wish and built palaces, military barracks, cathedrals, monastries and church etc inside the fortress . 

Some parts of the Nasrid palaces were used, others were demolished and rebuilt. 

The resulting palace, the Alhambra was completed in the 14th century and is considered as a mix of Moorish -Andalusian architectural style. 

Interestingly, Christopher Columbus ( the famous explorer) received royal endorsement for his expedition in one of the royal palaces. 

UNESCO World Heritage Site 

In 1870 , the Alhambra was declared as a National Monument of Spain and was thrown open to the general public .

In 1984 , the imposing fortress of Alhambra and  exquisite gardens of Generalife were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site . 

Photo credit : UNESCO 

Today Alhambra is an amalgamation of different eras of architectural styles, construction phases and states of preservation. 

           Decoration 

 

A forbidding defensive wall with numerous imposing square watch towers encloses an architectural splendour dotted with intricate carvings on the walls, delicate pillars, ornate oriental windows, stunning tile work and ravishing fountains. 

         Beauty and Aesthetics

Alhambra is considered as pinnacle of Nasrid Art. It provides us with a vast repertoire of building types, a palantine city with breathtaking architecture of Islamic epigraphy.

Photo credit : Pinterest

Alhambra is one of the most beautiful buildings in the world. There are around 10,000 inscriptions found in this exquisite building with (1.) verses from the Holy Quran, (2.) poems that connects on the feature of different rooms, (3.) Pynegyries (lavish praise of various Nasrid rulers) and, (4.) witty aphorisms.    

                 Nasrid Motto

Wa la ghaliba illa Allah, which means God is the victorious was the motto of the Nasrid Emirs (rulers) , it is beautifully chiselled throughout Alhambra’s walls, ceilings and window frames in various different forms and styles. 

             Design and Decor 

Although Alhambra’s exterior is simple, plain and rough, it’s interiors hide a beautiful world inside where a wide variety of mediums have to used to beautify spaces, rooms and courtyards like glazed ceramic, stucco, exquisite calligraphy, mesmerizing mosaics, horse shoe arches, muqarnas  and different variety of wooden pieces painstakingly assembled on windows, ceilings and domes. 

Decoration is lively and set in space allocated for pleasure and contemplation. 

Water as a medium of aesthetics

Water bodies like fountains and streams have been integrated into the surroundings to bring in sight, sound and it’s cooling  qualities into close proximity within gardens and courtyards. 

 

It mirrors the beauty of Alhambra’s architecture in the most natural and unique way so as to represent the, Gardens of Paradise, mentioned in the Muslim holy text, the Quran. 

 

Alhambra’s  beauty and splendour were praised both by the Muslims and Christians who set eyes upon it. 

       Rise and fall of Alhambra 

By the 17th century Alhambra was totally abandoned and fell into disrepair.

Several Spanish artists and architects were commissioned to record the state of the buildings in detail plans and drawings which were then published in Antiguedades Arabes de Espana in 1785 and 1804.

The Alhambra attracted tourism after the publication of Washington Irving’s, ‘The Tales of Alhambra ’, which further enhanced interest in the readers. 

Plaster casts, photographs, illustrated books, oriental paintings and drawings further sparked interest in this exotic building. 

               Plaster Casts

Plaster was a fairly cheap material and could be cast in moulds so that copies could easily be made of the original sculpture or architectural details and further identical reproductions could be made to be sold widely. 

Alhambra Facade Model Plaque, early 20th century. Polychrome stucco plaque. Photo credit 1st Dibs

Plaster model would be then embellished with colour or finer detailing. 

Alhambra Plaque, Rafael Rus Acosta, early 20th century Spain. Moulded and carved plaster

These casts were acquired for teaching purposes, kept in museums and also bought by visitors as souvenirs. 

         Don Rafael Contrera

Don Rafael Contrera was appointed as Director of Restoration ( adornistas) at the Alhambra in 1847 . 

Amongst his most notable invention is the reconstruction of the Hall of Beds, in which he attempted to restore the colour without success between 1848-1866.

Contreras built a workshop to experiment with different plasters while creating scale models of different areas of the Alhambra. 

Photo credit : THE MET 

Scale models are scarce and highly sought after by collectors. 

Such models were frequently sold to tourists, many of them British during the 19th century. On one level they were high class souvenirs, but on another level they were well made Miniature versions of a Celebrated Monument that was widely admired all over Europe. 

Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Many models created by him of the Alhambra survive today in major Museums and Institutions world wide.

After the death of Jose Contreras, his son Rafael Contreras continued to carry his work for nearly four (4) decades. 

Rafael Contreras

Rafael Contreras was appointed by Queen Isabella in 1847 as Head Restorer (adornista ) of the Alhambra and Director and Curator in 1869.

Photo credit : THE MET, plaster coloured

He carried a major restoration in the Nasrid Palace between 1847 -1889. 

His approach as a restorer only focused on Alhambra’s wall surface, substituting original decoration with new plaster casts made in his workshop using rediscovered plaster technique of clay stamping ( aprent’on de barro) . 

Photo credit : Bonhams 

Due to the substantial loss of the original plaster decoration Contreras and his team deliberately decided to recreate all of the decoration on the walls, filling in any blank spaces, leading inevitable transformation of the original Nasrid complex into a new Alhambra much more exotic and picturesque.

In short, he aimed to change the look of the Alhambra to create a more, ‘Oriental Building’.

Contreras also created models of the Alhambra for Museums and the tourist trade , thus creating a successful business for himself parallel to his work as a ,‘Restorer’.

              Owen Jones 

Owen Jones and Jules Goury ( French artist) were the first to study the Alhambra as a Masterpiece of Islamic design.

Details of the Alhambra Palace taken from drawings by Jules Goury and Owen Jones 1833-37.Victoria and Albert Museum, London

They spent six months meticulously studying the breadth taking decorations at the Alhambra Palace, producing hundreds of drawings and plaster casts. 

Goury sadly died of cholera during their stay and Jones returned to London and published the results of their studies. 

        The Grammar of Ornament (1856) 

Amongst various books on design that Owen Jones wrote in his lifetime is the famous ,

‘The Grammar of Ornament ’,and ,’Ornament and design of the Alhambra, ’and ‘Plans, Elevation, Sections and Details of the Alhambra’( 1842- 45). They became one of the influential publications on Islamic architecture of all time. 

 

The Grammar of Ornament (1856) is a global and historical design sourcebook. With around 2,000 original engravings, it would act as collection of the best examples of ornaments and decorations from other cultures and other periods. 

Some famous drawings and sketches 

Photo credit : Pinterest.Sketch by  John Frederick Lewis (1805-1876) 

Photo credit : Victoria and Albert Museum. Drawing of a section of the Tower of the Captive at the Alhambra, Granada .William Harvey ( 1913-1915)     

                Photography

During the 19th century the Alhambra was travelled widely by the so called, ‘travelling elites of Europe, these expeditions were further enriched by exotic photography of the exquisite monument.

 

Images of the oriental palace of Alhambra spread around the world by professional photographers at that time like Charles Clifford, R. P. Napper and Jean Laurent. 

 

                    Jean Laurent 

Jean Laurent was one of the most important photographers working in Spain in the 19th century. 

Mullioned windows of the Hall of the two sisters Alhambra, Granada (1874). Department of Image Collection, National Gallery of Art Library. Washington D. C. 

He represented a new generation of professionals who produced commercial photos and created different products for sale such as, stereoscopes, cards, albums etc .

 

He opened stores in Madrid and Paris to sell products inside and outside Spain. His collection of more than 400 images of Granada monuments, makes it the largest made of any provincial city.

               Charles Clifford

Clifford’s unusual treatment of architectural spaces has made him one of the most famous 19th century photographers in Spain. 

Library of Congress, Charles Clifford (1819-1863) 

He belonged to both the Societe Francaise de Photographic and the Architectural Photographic Association. 

        Sepia- toned photos 

Albumen silver print from glass negative. Courtyard of the Lions, Alhambra, Spain 1880-1890 Senan y Gonzalez

 

Father of Tesellations ( E. S. Escher) 

 

“The Alhambra in Granada is the most fertile source of inspiration of all those from which I have drunk. ” Escher 

E. S. Escher visited the Alhambra in 1930s and he was highly fascinated and inspired with patterns that repeated endlessly …… this lead to his obsession with Tessellations and he created artworks based on the mathematical calculations  of Tessellations, he is famously known as the, Father of Tessellations. 

Tessellations are one of the major components of Islamic Art.

Tessellations are patterns of shapes that cover an area so that there are no gaps and no overlaps and the Muslim craftsmen mastered this art using geometry and mathematics to create perfect geometric forms and spaces. 

 

Alhambra is considered best example of architectural building where one could contemplate the infinite nature of God simply by looking at the exquisite walls and ceilings. 

             Oriental Paintings 

Orientalists tended to paint their canvases in their studios at home, working from photographs and sketches that they had made while on their travels. 

In the courtyard of the Alhambra, Adolf Seel 

Photo credit : Sotheby’s

European painters of the 19th century visited areas we now know as Near East, Middle East and North Africa and depicted what they saw in admiration. 

 

The Moorish Guard. Photo credit : Pinterest 

Their paintings captured the cultural and social scenario of that time and tapped interest to travel far off to these exotic lands. 

In short, Orientalism is the attraction of Westerners to the East 

Oil on canvas, Edouard Richter ( 1844-1913) 

Christie’s became the first auction house to establish an Orientalist sale in 1998.

               

      Alhambra in our homes 

Digital printing has literally brought the designs and patterns of famous buildings right inside our homes and Alhambra is no exception. 

I had ordered two Alhambra inspired cushion covers online through Amazon, pre -Covid from Ambii Collections.

Online paltforms like Etsy, Redbubble, Peta Home, Good Earth ,India Circus and countless more websites sell Alhambra inspired cutlery, stoles, upholstery and gift items. 

 

                  Conclusion 

Described by the poets, Alhambra is like a, “pearl set in emeralds,”. This unique building has inspired thousands of poems, songs, legends and myths across generation and would continue to inspire connoisseur of arts and heritage, that, “Beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder”. 

 

Exploring Sikhism and Islam

Rare old painting of Guru Nanak in Baghdad Museum. Made in the 16th century by a Muslim painter from Baghdad Kamal ud din Behzad ( 1450-1535)

Introduction

I have a special affinity with the Punjab region,(Punj meaning five and Aab meaning water)

The land of five rivers is where my forefathers ( from my father’s side of the family) settled beside the river Ravi in Jalandhar .

Being Sufi Syeds from Nishapur in Iran they found peace and brotherhood within the green fields ,fertile plains and running rivers of the Punjab region .

There is a history of constructive influence between Islam and Sikhism and while going through the passages of history we realise that the conflict between the Sikh Gurus and Mughal Emperor’s were mainly because of political reasons, it had nothing to do with either of the two religions .

In fact in the early stages of Sikhism, the Guru’s had much closer links with the Sufi saints of their times.

Guru Granth Sahib

The text of Shri Guru Granth Sahib or Adi Granth (the holy scripture in Sikhism)was compiled in 1604.

It includes the teachings of 36 contributors who lived, preached and practiced spiritualism over 5 centuries.

Photo credit : British Museum

This folio of Guru Granth Sahib dates from middle of the 17th century (1660-75) and is therefore one the 20 oldest known copies in existence.

Guru Granth Sahib or the Adi Granth Sahib contains tradition and teachings of 14 Hindu Bhakti movement sants ( saints),such as Kabir, Namdev etc ,1 Muslim Baba Farid and 2 other Untouchables .

Their profound love for One Almighty God, preaching oneness of mankind found their place in the holy scripture.

Baba Farid Ganjshakar

Khwaja Farid ud- din Masud Ganjshakar was a Sufi of the Chishti Order.

He is considered as the first major poet of the Punjabi language and a selection of his Kalam (work) around 132 hymns are included in the most Sacred Scripture of Sikhism the Guru Granth Sahib.

There are 10 Sikh Gurus and 15 Bhagats in Sikhism, and Baba Farid is counted as one of equally revered 15 Bhagats in Sikhism.

Baba Farid lies buried in Pakpattan, Punjab province of present day Pakistan .

His revered shrine is closed from 5th Moharram till 40th Muharram and is covered in a black cloth honouring the Martyrs of Karbala , and in Baba Farid’s own words that he ,“leaves for Karbala to seek alms from his master Imam Hussain a. s.”

Oness of God

Islam believes in the Oneness of God and so does the teachings of Guru Nanak also preach in one true God, Ek Omkar .

Both Islam and Sikhism are Monotheistic religion.

Islamic phrase

Mirror image calligraphy of Bismillah

Photo credit:Wikipedia

Bismillah- hir -rehman- nir- raheem means, In the name of God, the Most Gracious, the Most Merciful.

It is an Islamic phrase that appears 113 times in the holy Quran and forms the opening lines of each Chapter (Surah) except for the ninth chapter.

Mool Mantra

Photo credit: Sikhnet. com

The preamble of the Sikh holy scripture is the Mool mantra.

It comes in abbreviated form,smallest form ,”Ik Omkar Satgur prasad ”,it comes 525 times before the beginning of Chapters and Ragas.”

Professor Nashir Naqvi ,(Punjab University and an authority on Punjab History) rightly points out that both the Sacred scriptures emphasize on the the Oneness of God or Hamdiya Kalam.

Scripts

Punjabi language has two major scripts (1) ShahMukhi (2) Gurmukhi script.

ShahMukhi Script

ShahMukhi literally meaning from the King’s mouth is a variant of Urdu script, based on Nastaliq style of the ancient Persian script.

Photo credit : Reddit

Printed in Lahore in 1897

ShahMukhi was adopted by Sufi poets of Punjab as early as 11th century and over a period of time it became a standard writing style for Punjabi language.

ShahMukhi is based on Arabic script and uses words from Urdu,Arabic and Persian language and is written from Right to Left.

Gurmukhi Script

Gurmukhi literally means from the Guru’s mouth, is a relatively new script when compared to ShahMukhi.

It was adopted by the 2nd Sikh Guru, Guru Angad (1563-1606) in the 16th century.

GurMukhi script is based on Devnagri script, using Hindi and Sanskrit words, it is written from Left to Right.

Both ShahMukhi and GurMukhi scripts are found in Punjab region, but since the middle of the 20th century , ShahMukhi has been mainly used in the Punjab region of Pakistan .

Hazrat Baba Sain Mir Mohammad Sahib ( 1550-1635 )

For keeping the Holy Scripture (Guru Granth Sahib) Guru Arjan Dev ji built a temple in 1588 in the middle of the holy tank named Amritsar or (pool of nectar) and named it Hari Mandir. Mandir is a sacred structure and Hari is a qualitative name of God.

It is the holiest shrine of the Sikh religion and is located in the Indian city of Amritsar( Punjab).

Foundation stone at Harmandir Sahib

Since the temple was to be thrown open to people of all caste, creed and religion,Guru Arjan Dev ji invited Hazrat Baba Sain Mir Mohammad Sahib ( 1550-1635) also known as Mian Mir,who was a famous Muslim Sufi saint belonging to the Qadiri order of Sufism ,to lay down the foundation stone of Harmandir Sahib or Golden Temple at Amritsar.

Mian Mir travelled from Lahore to Amritsar, to lay the foundation stone of Harmandir Sahib in Amritsar.This is also the foundation stone of Sikh Muslim relations.

The foundation strengthened the love, respect and brotherhood between the Sikhs and Muslims, especially the Sufis who believed in the Oneness of God and mankind.

Photo credit : Khalili Collection. Mian Mir praying in the holy city of Medina.

Relationship with the Mughals

Mian Mir was an icon of unity, tolerance and love during his life and is still highly respected by the Sikhs.

He was against the in -human torture Guru Arjan Dev ji(5th Guru) had to endure especially under the reign of Mughal Emperor Jahangir and gave his blessings to his young 13 year old Guru Hargobind ji (6th Guru)after the untimely death of his father Guru Arjan Dev ji.

It was through his intervention and other well wishers that Emperor Jahangir reconciled his relationship with the Sikh Gurus.

Mian Mir lies buried in Lahore, and his shrine still attracts a large number of people of all religions, castes and creeds .

Dara Shikoh

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Mughal style painting showing Dara Shikoh with Mian Mir and Mullah Shah Badakshi

Prince Dara Shikoh (the eldest son of Mughal Emperor ShahJahan) was a famous disciple of Mian Mir and often sought his company.

His book Sakinatul Aulia is dedicated to the life and works of Mian Mir.

My link with the Revered Saint.

My late father, Syed Mushtaq Hussain Naqvi took great pride in the fact that he belonged to the branch of Mian Mir’s lineage.

He has written extensively about this in his book Mir Wajid Ali ( biography)

Photo credit : Dr. Syed Ali Imam Zaidi, ‘Gauhar Lucknawi ’.(Mir Anees was his great -grandfather from maternal side and my father’s nephew).

Family tree of my late father Syed Mushtaq Hussain Naqvi.

He often told me, “beta mere paas duniya ki daulat nahi hai par mein tumko apna shajra aur kitabein de sakta hoon, joe bahut qeemat rakhti hein”. it translates as, “my child though I haven’t had worldly possessions with me, all I can give to you are my books and my lineage, they are much more priceless. ”

Travels of Guru Nanak

To spread the,’real message of God’,Shri Guru Nanak Dev ji travelled in all four (4) directions.It is believed that he travelled more than 24,000 kms.

Most of his journey were made on foot across different countries and around 60 cities with his trusted companion Bhai Mardana spanning 24 years.

Udasis ( Journey)

These travels are called Udasis. The word Udasi is derived from the Sanskrit word Udasin meaning detached, journey, reflecting an approach to spiritual and temporal life.

At the age of 50,Guru Nanak ji set off for his 4th and last Udasi spanning almost 3 years to different lands of West Asia,covering different countries,cities and various places along the way.

He also visited the Muslim holy cities of Mecca, Medina, Karbala, Najaf and their shrines.

Travelogues

In Mecca Guru Nanak ji met with Haji Rukn- ud -din and Haji Taaj -ud -din Nakshbandi, ( a historian and writer from Iran).

Both Rukn -ud -din and Taj -ud-din Naqshbandi have recorded their meetings and travels with Guru Nanak ji in Mecca.

Taj-ud -din Naqshbandi maintained a diary named Siyahto Baba Nanak Fakir, while Khwaja Zainul Abdin wrote Twarik -i-Arab about the travels of Guru Nanak ji in Mecca.

Baghdad

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Gurudwara at Baghdad ( Iraq) 1920’s

In Baghdad ,according to historical sources Bhai Mardana and Guru Nanak stayed with Sheikh Bahlol Dana ( a renowned Sufi mystic of his time).

The place where they stayed together is converted into a humble looking shrine or ( Gurudwara) and maintained by Abu Yusuf who was the caretaker till mid 1990’s

Photo credit: Mr. Amardeep Singh (The Guru Nanak),Facebook

Left, Abu Yusuf (caretaker) Right, his grand father.

Even today there are several disciples of Guru Nanak living in Iraq on the Western banks of the river Tigris, particularly in the cities of Al -Kut and Baghdad.

They are called Sobi and are generally goldsmiths.They remember Guru Nanak with great reverence and call him by the name Baba Nanak .

Robes of Honour

Photo credit : Pinterest

19th century painting with fine calligraphy preserved in the Government Museum and Art Gallery, Chandigarh

A Choga is a smock or gown worn by Muslim holy saints or Pirs.

The Choga was presented to Guru Nanak by Muslim rulers during his travels to the Middle East.

It is recorded in Sikh sources that Guru Nanak took off his robe at Kartarpur and presented it to Guru Angad.

This robe has been given to the five (5) Gurus while bestowing Guruship.The management and the upkeep of the Choga or ‘Chola Sahib’ has since been given to Guru Nanak’s descendants.

Photo credit: the world Sikh news. com

It is on display and preserved in Gurudwara Dera Baba Nanak ,Punjab (India)

It is a living testimony of Guru Sahib’s successful voyage to the Middle East

Decoding the Chola Sahib

Robe of Honour (Chola Sahib) that the Guru wears in the painting is illustrated with calligraphy in the Arabic Nakshi script with verses of the Quran.

Inside the choga are many round shaped circles in which numbers of many languages are written like Sanskrit, Arabic, Persian and Urdu numerals.

Bhai Mardana

Accompanying Guru Nanak in all of his journeys was Bhai Mardana, a childhood friend and a Muslim, who belonged to a family of Mirasi.

Bhai Mardana would play the Rabab ( musical instrument) , adding to the mystic of Guru Nanak’s divine Shabads( hymns).

Through his Shabads, Guru Nanak spread the message of Ik Onkar Or One true God.

Qawwali and Kirtan are practically of the same tradition.

Samana ( Patiala)

The small town of Samana is located 28 kms from Patiala district in the Indian State of Punjab.

History of Samana begins with the migration of Imamzadeh Syed Mashadd Ali ibn Imam Ali Reza a.s along with his family and followers from Iran because of political tensions with then Abbasid Caliph Mamun Rashid.

Samana was named after the wife of Imam Ali al Ridha ( Eight Imam of Shia Islam)

The holy shrine is at least 1250 years old, locally known as the shrine of Panj Peer ki Mazar and generally it is referred to as Mashadd -e -Hind giving it’s history that a son of Imam Ali al Ridha ( 8th Shia Imam) lies buried within it’s soil.

Samana is said to be a place of Saints and Scholars during the Mughal period and before the Partition of India it was inhabited by the Syeds (Rizvi and Zaidi)

The holy shrine and it’s upkeep was then taken over by some Sikhs which was eventually handed over again to Muslims in the year 2005.

Significantly it is the only one qabr (tomb) of Imam Zadeh (son of the Holy Imam ) in India.

Guru Nanak and Imam Hussain

Guru Nanak had a very deep affection and honoured the sacrifice of Imam Hussain a. s.

He has shown his love by singing hymns and poetry in praise of the Holy Imam a. s.

Below is a famous quotation by Guru Nanak Dev ji .

Guruji on the supreme sacrifice of Imam Hussain a. s. and his small band of 72 followers.

In keeping true to the teachings of their Guru’s, Sikhs participate in the mourning rituals of Muharram, they are found distributing food, water to the people.

There are few Sikhs who also recite Nohas in memory of the Martyrs of Karbala , among the Shairs or poets who recited poetry in the love for Ahlulbayt comes ,Khushbeer Singh,‘Shaad ’,Puran Singh ‘Hunar’,Karnail Singh,’Panchsheel’,Dr.Satnam Singh,’Khumar’,Jogi Singh,‘Anwar’,and many more……

Kunwar Mohinder Singh Bedi, ‘Sahar’, he was also addressed as Aalijah as he was the direct descendant of Guru Nanak Devji.

Doosri Karbala

Allah Yaar Khan Jogi (1870-1956) was an unbiased Muslim poet /writer and a contemporary of Mir Anees (famous Urdu marsiya (Eulogy) writer.

Photo credit : Facebook

He was a poet and firm believer in the teaching of Shri Guru Gobind Singh ji and wrote in Gurmukhi and Hindi scripts.

He wrote two Marsiyas (Eulogy) about the four sons or Chaar Sahibzade of Shri Guru Gobind Singhji namely Ajit Singh, Fateh Singh, Zorawar Singh and Jujhar Singhji.

Photo credit : Punjab library. com

Shaheedan-e- Wafa tells us about the martyrdom of younger Sahibzade and Ganj-i-Shaheedan about the martyrdom of elder Sahibzade.

Photo credit : Punjabi Library. com

These Marsiya’s commemorate the martyrdom of young Sahibzade of Shri Gobind Singh ji and evoke the similarity of the tragedy of Karbala .

The land of Punjab is referred to as, ‘Doosri Karbala’, or second Karbala according to Dr. Nashir Naqvi (an authority on Punjabi history)

The role of Women in both these tragedies is also very powerful.

While Bibi Zainab ( Imam Hussain sister) plays a very important role in the aftermath of the battle of Karbala, it is through her narrations that the atrocities committed by Yazid’s army to Imam Hussain and his family comes to light upon people and they come to know the truth, while the Grandmother of the four Sahibzade plays a very powerful role in order to save their lives and from the atrocities of the Mughal army especially Aurangzeb.

The tragedy of Karbala takes place in the intense desert heat of Iraq while the Shadat or Shaheedi ( Martyrdom) of the four Sahibzade takes place in the cold, freezing month of December.

Every year during the Shaheedi Diwas or martyrdom day of the Sahibzade which falls on 13 Poesh (according to the Sikh calendar) , these two marsiyas are recited with great reverence.

Langars ( Communal Meals)

The word langar is a Persian word that translates as an ,‘almshouse ’,or a‘ place for the poor and needy’.

It was an institution among Sufi Muslims in South Asia whereby food and drink are given to the needy regardless of social or religious background.

Langars were a common feature of the Sufi centres in the 12th and 13th centuries. Even today some dargahs and shrines commemorating Sufi saints run large langars.

Baba Faridud -din Ganjshakar first introduced the institution of Langar in the Punjab region.

It was later adopted as an institution and term by the Sikhs.

It is a free communal kitchen attached to a Gurudwara in the Sikh tradition.

The concept of Langar teaches unity,equality, love, compassion and a sense of service (Sewa).

Simple hygienic vegetarian menu is followed all over the world, which includes dal (lintels), chawal ( rice) , one sabzi ( vegetables dish) and roti (bread).

Golden Temple in Amritsar has the World’s Largest Community kitchen run by Sevadars ( volunteers) doing selfless service.

Interestingly the langars outside the Gurudwara’ s of Jalandhar, Malerkotla and Amritsar are known as Hussaini langars and the Sabeel is known as Chabeel, although they both have been used to serve same purpose and that is to distribute water to the thirsty.

Honouring one another

Sword of Imam Ali

Gurudwara Shri Keshgarh Sahib is located at Anandpur Sahib, Punjab .

It is one of the 5 five highest Sikh Institutions or takhts (seats) of authority of Sikhs and is also known as the, “Takht Shri Keshgarh Sahib ”.

This Gurudwara is famous as a repository of rare holy relics including the Khanda ( double edged sword) used by Guru to prepare Amrit for his Panj Pyares and the Sword of Imam Ali.

The sword of Imam Ali or,‘Saif ’, was reportedly presented to Guru Gobind Singh ji by the Mughal Emperor Bahadur Shah -1,who also bestowed him the title of Hind ka Pir ( Saint of India).

Sikh Shrines in Muslim names

There have been many Sikh shrines in Muslim names like Gurudwara Yaadgaar ( memorial) Pir Buddhu Shah, Gurudwara Maulvi Patti Likhi( Nankana Sahib),Gurudwara Majnu ka Tila ( Delhi), Gurudwara Hajji Rattan ( Bhatinda)etc.

A University guest house of Punjab University ( Patiala) is named, ‘Waris Bhavan ’, in the name of Waris Ali Shah a Sufi saint and another guest house of Guru Nanak Dev University in Amritsar is Sheikh Sajjan Guest House.

Nawab of Malerkotla

Malerkotla was a Muslim dominated principality of the Punjab region.

It’s Nawab Sher Muhammad Khan ( 1672-1712) protested against the capture and execution of two sons of Fateh Singh (6years ) and Zorawar Singh ( 9years) by the Mughal forces under Aurangzeb.

The story of protest reached Guru Govind Singh who after hearing this said,”His roots shall remain forever green.”

The Guru blessed the Nawab with a Hukamnama and a Kirpan, which still are among the prized possession of the Malerkotla house.

Guru ki Maseet

Guru ki Maseet also known as Guru’s Mosque is a historical mosque constructed by Guru Hargobind Sahib ( 6th Sikh Guru) in the year 1634 at the request of local Muslims of Hargobindpur in Gurdaspur district of Punjab ( India).

Situated on the banks of river Beas it is recognised as a historic site by UNESCO.

Dedication

I would like to express my sincere thanks to Mr. Parvez Zaidi who is currently Executive Vice -President Global Operations of P. T. C. Networks.

He shared with me the contact number of Professor Nashir Naqvi ,an authority on the History of Punjab almost 2 years ago when I had expressed my desire on writing upon this unique subject .

Professor Nashir Naqvi has helped me tremendously, answering my questions with great patience and throwing light upon the forgotten history of the Punjab region and particularly it’s colorful syncretic cultural fabric which has been passed down through centuries of living together between people of different religions and social strata.

This is what makes us proud to be Indian, living as part of a unique and diverse heritage.

A Room for All :The Majlis

            Introduction

Majlis is a centuries old tradition of hospitality in the Arab world. The Arab culture emphasizes the tradition of welcoming and receiving guests and Bedouins are renowned for their hospitality. 

This room has played a vital role among the various Bedouin tribes scattered across the Arabian Gulf.

                     Word

Majlis is an Arabic term meaning, “a place of sitting.”, roughly translated to a place to sit. 

It is also used to describe a formal Legislative Assembly and also a place in home or outside for Social Gathering.

           Room for Hospitality

The Majlis is a social space where customs surrounding hospitality are observed, since Arab culture places great emphasis on extending a warm welcome to guests. 

It is a place where family, friends and community members exchange thoughts ,discuss and share news and information, have a social life and find solution to a problem socially or on individual level.

                   Names

It is known by different names Diwaniya in Kuwait, Majlis in Saudi Arabia, Barza in UAE, Al Sabla in Oman and Al Mayles in Qatar.

Majlis run by elders ,chieftains and sheikhs are called Barza.

Bedouins organise meetings in their black tents or Bayt al she’r  or in open air settings, around fires with coffee served to attendees.

Majlis of the Merchants and Majlis of Justice have also been very popular .

                    Types

Meeting between people can take place no matter what terrain they live in.

People living in Coastal areas meet in houses made of mud plaster and palm fronds.

Sometimes boat can also play the role of a Majlis.

People living in the harsh desert climate like the Bedouins  live in tents made of goat and sheep, which is called Bayt al she’r Or House of hair. These spacious black colored tents play host to meetings organised to entertain guests or to resolve issues.

In mountains, meetings are generally organised around a water source, where guests entertain themselves with poetry, stories and popular folk tales.

UNESCO Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Majlis is a centuries old tradition in the UAE and other Arab nations.

In 2015,  the Majlis became UNESCO’s Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of humanity.

UNESCO described Majlis as an, “open to all people”, and playing an important role in the transfer of oral heritage.

The Majlis -Cultures in Dialogue.

In 2018, UNESCO hosted an exhibition about the Majlis, to showcase intercultural dialogue and the influence of the Muslim, Christian, Jewish and Buddhist cultures.It was named, The Majlis- Cultures in Dialogue

The touring exhibition comprised of objects that have stories that recall the mutual and often forgotten influences between the Islamic civilisation, Europe, India and the Far East.

A living heritage that is transmitted from one generation to another, a place of learning for the youth where they learn to listen, talk and share information, negotiate and resolve disputes.

Most of the objects on display were taken from the collection of Sheikh Faisal Bin Qasim Al Thani ( Emir of Qatar) .They included objects like gramophones, dress, glass – incense bottle, carpets, Al Sadu cushions etc.

In conjunction with the travelling exhibition, a Book was published in 2019 by the author Kees Wieringa named, The Majlis Cultures in Dialogue.

           Majlis Room Interior

The Majlis room is usually the largest room of Arab homes, the Arabic tradition of Majlis value the privacy of the space, where the Majlis is kept seperate from the house with a seperate entryway and a large entrance door.

It is a space where as host, you receive visitors and give them respect and hospitality.

Furnishings of the Majlis room can be made in a Palace, House or a Tent.

The interior of this room is usually kept simple and elegant  reflecting the local culture .

With beautiful carpets on the floors ,doshak or Arabic mattresses, traditional cushions in bright colourful weaving called tekay  which are placed against the wall, the Majlis becomes a warm and inviting space to strike  conversations.

                  Al-Sadu weave

Al-Sadu is a traditional handicraft which is practiced by the Bedouin women to produce various kinds of soft furnishings and decorative accessories.

It is a weave characterised by different geometric patterns and motifs and is made from camel fur, goat hair or sheep wool.

The walls of a Majlis are decorated with pictures of Arabian culture like horses, camel riding, desert landscapes, falcon hunting and tent paintings.

               Majlis etiquette

This room requires certain basic etiquette,

1.)Dress modestly, 2.) Upon entering the Majlis, you should remove your shoes, 3.) formal greetings are exchanged, 4.) Usually refreshment is offered upon arrival, 5.) and food is eaten with fingers.

Presence of an Incense burner or Mabkhara is one common feature, usually servants pass the burning incense or bakhoor to guests to freshen their mood by diffusing pleasing scents and clean the environment by removing the staleness in the air.

A special stove called the, ‘Kawar ’is used to make coffee. It is usually placed in the middle of the room and can be found mostly in the Saudi Arabian Majlis room.

A Magawi is responsible for making and serving coffee, youngsters also play an important role in serving the guests.

In addition to Arabian coffee, tea, shisha, fruits and sweets are generously served to the guests which are neatly placed on a circular handwoven palm frond mat or a central table as symbols of generosity of the host to the guests.

       Social and Cultural Space

The Majlis room is of different types, within communities it is a privileged place to discuss, to socialise and to connect with one another.

For men it usually is a separate building with a separate entrance , while the women have one inside the house.

It is a socio -cultural space where the art of conversations take place, a place where the young learn from their elders the ethics , values and mannerism of their respective communities and tribes.

Arab tribes give high -respect to the elders of their community,they are considered wise because of their experience.

There are certain rules that are followed in a Majlis, the older members sit in the middle, and the young on both sides.

It helps in building  companionship amongst community members, where the community gathers together for various different activities such as ,to offer condolences as well as come together to organise wedding parties.

Transfer of Oral Heritage

Oral heritage of the Bedouin tribes include folk stories, folk songs and Nabati poetry.

Story telling

The oral tradition of story telling have been passed through Bedouin tribes as a means of preserving their past, educating the young and entertaining them through the expression of language.

Nabati poetry

Poetry like story telling has been an important medium of expression among the  Bedouin people.

It would serve them to deal various issues in society, welcome and entertain guests and families in their  journey’s across the hars barren desert.

Arabic poetry is of two types 1.) Nabati 2.) Al-Taghrooda.

Majlis gatherings have been very much instrumental in the preservation of oral heritage including Nabati poetry, which is often known as Bedouin poetry or the people’s poetry.

Nabati poetry is popular among people because it is simple and direct, while Al- Taghrooda is chanted poetry, performed back and forth between two people.

A number of Nabati poems have been composed into Arabic songs.

Nagash painting

In Asir region of Saudi Arabia, there are women who paint the Majlis room and decorate it with colouful patterns of lines, squares, triangles etc.

These colours are sourced from natural sources such as rocks, sap from somgha tree, dust and spices.

        Museums and Festivals

In a bid to preserve the traditions of their forefathers the Arab countries like UAE, Saudi Arabia, Oman and Qatar have displayed their tradition in Museums and also by organising Cultural Festivals.

Bastakiya is considered Dubai ‘s oldest quarter. Here the mansions of the past have been kept open for the public to view the lifestyle of the past , before the invasion of modern society.

The Al Jenadriyah is an annual  two week Cultural and Heritage festival of Arabian Peninsula , which is held near Riyadh (Saudi Arabia).

              Majalis Madaris

Majalis Madaris is an Arabian proverb which means that the Majalis are schools. It reveals the richness of Arabian language and poetry. It is a space for transmission of knowledge passed down through generations.

            Muharram Majlis

Growing up in a prominent Shia family of Lucknow, Majlis for me always evocked memories of mourning the Tragedy of Karbala.

Majlis gave women a safe space to gather not only to mourn but also to have discussion over various social, political issues concerning their lives

Later in life I started organising a Children’s Majlis at home in Delhi so that my daughter and her generation could understand and learn about human values through the life of Imam Hussain a. s and differentiate between right and wrong.

Conclusion

In the era of WhatsApp, Facebook, Instagram, Twitter etc we are connected ,but virtually, in  between these modern inventions somewhere we have lost human connection and the art of conversation where the young and old gathered together , shared food, laughed together ,cried and consoled one another negotiated and resolved disputes,and recited poetry to convey messages has been lost somewhere……

Majlis as means to stay connected is a beautiful heritage transmitted from one generation to another, a place of learning and socialising for the youth because connection and conversation are two most important ways to live a happy fruitful life, after all Man is a Social Animal.

Tree of Life

   

          Introduction

The Tree of Life motif is recognised by cultures all over the world.

It is a concept that appears in Science, Philosophy, Religion and Mythology and alludes to the inter connection of all life on our planet. It serves as a metaphor for our common descent.

This concept spans across nations and in nearly every ancient culture as a symbol of connectivity with roots with the soil and leaves and branches reaching sky receiving sun and air.

It dwells in the three worlds of heaven, earth and underworld, acting as a link among the three.

The Tree of Life Motif appears in oriental rugs, art, sculptures, paintings, jewelry ,tiles,stones and in many different types of fabrics.

               Indian Textiles

My article chooses to explore the heritage of Tree of Life motif in ancient Indian textiles, especially Kalamkari.

The symbol of a tree was sacred and represents life, endurance, growth and prosperity. It is woven, painted and block printed in a lot of Indian textiles.

                  Kalamkari

Kalamkari or Qalamkari is derived from the Persian word Qalam meaning Pen and Kari meaning craftmanship or simply drawing with a pen.

Kalamkari is a hand painted or block printed cotton textile, produced in Isfahan, Iran and in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh.

The art of Kalamkari originated in Persia or present day Iran.

                     India

In India it flourished along the Coromandel Coast during the 17th century and originated as a religious tapestry which later became a secular craft under Muslim rule.

Kalamkari paintings became popular especially under the Golconda Sultanate.

                      Iran

In Iran, the fabric is printed using patterned wooden stamps.

The Persian city of Isfahan is considered as the centre of this beautiful handicraft, which is appreciated throughout the world and tourist bring them back as a beautiful reminder of their trip .

                      Dyes

Original Kalamkari fabrics are made from natural dyes which are extracted from vegetables, flowers and seeds.

Dyes are obtained from colours from various roots, leaves and mineral salts of iron, copper and alum.

It is a painstaking process that involves at least 23 steps.

                      Styles

Two styles of Kalamkari Art in India include Sri Kalahasti in Chittoor district and Machilipatnam  in Krishna district of Andhra Pradesh.

Both the Kalamkari styles have earned GI tag or( Geographical Indication Tag) .

Sri Kalahasti style of Kalamkari art flourished in temples, creating epic stories and religious myths.

Photo credit : Pinterest

While the Machilipatnam style of Kalamkari is mainly used as dress materials, sarees, curtains and bedcovers, nowdays as doormats too.

Photo credit : Jaypore

They are sold on various online websites, emporiums and craft stores.

                Palampore

The word Palampore comes from the Hindi word Palang posh bed spread or coverlet.

Palampore is a type of bedcover or wall hanging that was made in India for the export market especially Britain, the Netherlands during the 17th, 18th and early 19th century.

Photo credit : MET Museum, New York

They are Hand painted, Block printed and occasionally Embroidered.

Photo credit : MET Museum, New York

Produced by Indian artisans these densely patterned textiles were trade goods especially desired by fashionable Europeans.

Palampore were a regular feature of the 18th century Chintz trade to Europe where they were prized as wall hangings and bed and table coverings.

Photo credit : Christie’s

They typically show a central flower fruit bearing serpentine tree emerging from a hillock with stylized peacocks and rocks.

Most palampores have a characteristic large Tree of Life motif in the centre.

                Luxury Fabric

Only the wealthiest classes could afford to buy palampore, therefore few examples have survived and have been quite valuable today.

Photo credit : MET Museum, New York

Instead of using palampores on their beds Europeans proudly displayed them on walls and as bed canopies. It was a Luxury fabric. 

                  Tree of Life

Palampores are bed coverings, in Indian textiles the tradition began to be associated with palampores featuring a central flowering tree growing from a Rocky mound or arising from water surrounded by sacred Lotus and marine creatures.

The Tree of Life symbol is a tree which is sacred and represents life, endurance, growth and prosperity.

It symbolises Creation and Resurrection. It is woven, painted or block printed.

Motifs usually consists of leaves, flowers or figurative designs.

Peacocks and other exotic birds,tigers and deer motifs combines elements from Persia, China, Europe and India.

       Janamaz (Prayer Rug)

In Islam, Janamaz or prayer rug is placed between the ground and worshipper. It is used for the performance of 5 daily prayers made obligatory on the believers.

The Kalamkari printed Tree of Life motif has been extensively used for making the Janamaz during the 18th century. It became popular not only in India but also in throughout the Islamic world.

Many of these exquisite pieces have found their way into Museums, Websites and Antique stores.

                 Conclusion

These paintings Speak of our Life , as it branches are spreading so is our life. We come across new people making our life more enriched and fruitful.

          Dedication

I dedicate this beautiful piece of writing to the two most important people in my life,my Mother ( Amma) who motivated me to pick up my threads again and start writing.

To my darling, most precious Anam, who inspires me to live every day,the fruit of my forbearance. She turns 10 this month, InshaAllah , I pray that this delicate plant blossoms into a beautiful human being one day and can be a source of inspiration for her generation.

Ink and Gold :The Art of Tezhip

                   Introduction 

Ruzbihan Quran 16th century Shiraz, considered as one of the finest Islamic manuscript known both in terms of materials and workmanship. 

Photo credit : Chester Beatty Library , Dublin 

The term illumination is used to describe the art of decorating manuscripts through the application of gold or silver. 

Illuminate means adding light, shine or shimmer. Literally to light up or enlightenment, The tradition of illuminating manuscripts exists across many cultures and religions and also extends to both sacred and non – sacred texts. 

The art of illumination has been practiced as widely in the West as it has in the East. This art was not limited only to the Islamic world, the religious texts of Jews, Torah and Christians Bible were also illuminated /gilded with real gold. 

The Book of Hours, 1400-1415, Walters Manuscripts. 

The styles of every religion, geographical region and each time period are slightly different. 

700 years old Torah acquired by Getty Museum. 

 

                   Islamic Art 

Illumination is regarded as the, Spirit of Islamic Art as the visual embellishment of the written texts added value of the book or manuscripts and also provides a spiritual journey to the reader.

 

Since Islam prohibits the representation of human or animal form (in religious texts) Islamic Art finds it’s ultimate spiritual expression in beautiful calligraphy and illumination of the sacred script. 

Photo credit : The Khamsa of Nizami

Islamic art is all about Beauty and Light because this combination makes you experience the spiritual glory of Allah, the Greatest.

“Islam is also very much about the light of knowledge that fights the ignorance of darkness. ”.Sabiha Al Khemir 

 

Categories

Islamic illumination means to light up or to decorate the manuscripts. 

Page from the ninth-century Quran , Surah Al An’am .Made in North Africa. Ink, gold and tempera colours on parchment. Paul Getty Museum. 

Like other art categories, illuminated manuscripts consists of various schools and eras such as Seljuk, Bukhara, Timurid, Safavid, Qajar and other various other branches within each school. 

The difference between various manuscript types are about colours, letters put next to each other on a page and how they are painted. 

                      Tezhip 

Tughra of Shah Muhammad bin Ibrahim Khan al – Muzaffar Daima (1648-1687) Ottoman period. The Cleveland Museum of Art

Tezhip is an old Islamic decorative art form. Turkey (Ottoman) and Iran (Persian)have played a major role in the promotion and progression of this branch of Islamic Art. 

This art of illumination was mostly employed in handwritten books and on the edges of calligraphic texts. 

It’s primary function was to, dress the writing. 

                Word 

The word tezhip means, “turning gold or ” “covering with gold leaf, ”in Arabic / Turkish, Tathhib in Persian . 

Tezhip/ Tathhib is derived from Arabic word dhahab which means gold . 

In simple words the Art of Islamic Illumination is called Arabesque in English, Islimi in Persian, Rumi in Turkish and Nabati in Arabic. 

         Expensive Art 

The main ingredient for this art is Lapis Lazuli and Gold, the two most expensive materials available at that time. 

Quran Folio,Walters Art Museum, Baltimore USA 

Often the luxurious books and manuscripts were afforded by royalty as the inks and elaborate decoration was time consuming which were made by highly skilled artisans and was considered  expensive . 

The courts of the great Emperor’s of Safavid  Persia, Ottoman Turkey and Mughal India employed a variety of calligraphers and illuminators to produce books on Poetry, History and Science. 

                  Use 

Tezhip was widely practiced in the Islamic world to decorate the Quran but also other books, both religious and secular. 

It was mostly employed in handwritten books and on the edges of calligrahic texts. 

This golden art adorned prayer books, calligraphy, manuscripts, firmans ( royal decree), marriage contracts, Ijaza ( diploma) etc 

                     Calligraphy

 

Calligraphy signed by Prince Dara Shikoh, Burhanpur, India 18th century. Aga Khan Museum

                  Book of Prayers 

Dala’il al – KhayIlluminated manuscript in Arabic on paper 1722 , Ottoman Empire. Muhammad ibn Sulayman al – Jazuli 

Photo credit : SMU

                 Manuscripts 

Manuscript of Mathnavi Ma’navi by Maulana Jalal Din Rumi Safavid period, 1615 Harvard Art Museum. 

Photo credit : Pinterest 

             Marriage contracts 

Marriage contract 1874,calligrapher Qasim Farhang ibn Vesal : Country of origin Iran (Persia) The Metropolitan Museum of Art. 

               Ijaza, certificate 

 

Calligrapher’s Diploma ( Ijaza) in ghubari script,Ottoman Turkey Ibrahim Adhan Efendi 1800-01 A. D. Photo credit : Christie’s. 

       Royal Firmans or decree 

Ottoman Royal Firman or decree

Photo credit : Pinterest 

 

 Quran : the word of God 

Folio from the tiny Quran in ‘ghubar ‘script, made for Qajar Emperor Fath Ali Shah ( 1798-1834) so that he could carry in his pocket at all times. Now in the collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art , New York. 

Writing of the Holy Quran is highly regarded as visual representation of the Word of God.Writing and presentation of the Quranic text  became an art. 

As the art developed in the Muslim world, calligraphy was not enough, so artists started adding a little gold to decorate the Quran to physically represent the enlightenment that comes from the Word of God.

Folio from the Quran, Ink, opaque water colour, gold on paper. 16th century. Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Mobile Palaces and Collapsible Cities : Exploring the world of tents.

 

           Introduction 

 

Across the world nomads have used different types of shelters and tents, initially used as simple shelters by nomadic tribes of Central Asia,  evolved into luxurious portable abodes by the time of Ghengiz Khan. 

Yurt 

The nomads of Central Asia and Mongolia lived in portable shelters, it’s shape was resistant to winds, snow and storms. Built of rigid, domed wooden frame, these yurts would be exquisitely decorated with hanging rugs ,and comfortable and colourful cushions. 

Yurt of a ruler or Khan was made of red felt decorated with gold like a domed palace. 

Islamic Royal Tents

Islamic Royal tents showcase a range of textiles in various media such as cotton, silk and gold and techniques like embroidery, applique ,block print and brocade. 

 

Ottoman Tents,Turkey 

   

The idea of nomadic life remained with the Ottoman’s and the culture of Central Asia became an Imperial tradition. 

Tents became a vital part of the Ottoman Empire and over time it became a symbol of the Sultan’s authority and status.

Entertainment 

Tents were used by the Sultan’s as a means to celebrate important events, hosting banquets,

feasts for visiting dignitaries, dance and entertainment, circumcision of princes,receiving foreign dignitaries, diplomatic mission, coronation and even for burials. 

Photo credit : Pinterest

Military campaigns 

Tents were used for military campaigns, state ceremonies, daily outings and picnics by the Sultan and the public. 

Ottoman Army was admired for it’s discipline and organization. Before the campaign all the needs of the soldiers was taken care of, their food, equipment and lodging. 

Sultan’s Tent Complex ( OtaU-Y HYmayun) 

 

The Sultan’s tent complex or OtaU-Y HYmayun  included everything the Sultan needed outside his palace. His home away from home. 

There was a tent for treasury, for holy relics, Council of State, storage, kitchen, bath and even…. toilet. All these tents were surrounded by a curtain wall of fabric called Zokak which provided security and privacy to the Sultan and going on in his tent… 

Around this complex, were the tents of the Grand Vizier, the state officials and all of them were placed in different sizes all according to the occupants rank. 

Two sets of OtaU -Y – HYmayun were prepared for the campaigns, and were sent ahead of the military campaigns. 

             Structure of the tent

Structure of the Ottoman tent was designed to be strong, made of finest fabrics from the inside yet strong and sturdy from the exterior.

These mobile structures could withstand gusts of wind, rain and storm and extreme weather conditions. 

 

There were different kinds of tents,single poled, conical roof or double poled tents ( with a roof with sloping on both sides of the axis) 

                 Works of Art 

Ottoman tents were Living Works of Art that provided the Sultan respite from constant wars, and campaigns. 

Floral arabesque in applique work on satin ,silk and woolen in different shapes and sizes provided the exotic warmth of his palace interior to a traveller on expedition…… a unique sensory experience. 

                   In Museums 

Ottoman tents are an important element in the culture of Turkey, they provide a window to their glorious past.

Some of the largest collection of Ottoman Imperial  tents is stored in the Topkapi Palace Museum  ( it has been poorly displayed and studied) and the Military Museum in Istanbul. 

         

               Triumphal Tents 

Some of the finest Ottoman tents are in treasuries and museums around Europe, where they were acquired either as battle trophies or gifts given to sovereign. 

Many of the tents in European collection today were among those captured at the Siege of Vienna, in countries like Hungary,Austria,Sweden and Poland . 

One of the largest collection of Ottoman tents can be found in the Wawel Royal Castle in Krakow, Poland. 

Three poled Ottoman Tent, 17th century Dresden

Ottoman Imperial Tent with a conical roof. 17th century. Museum of Vienna . 

 

Topkapi Palace , Istanbul 

Photo credit : Time out 

French traveller Corne Le Bruen says about Topkapi Palace Architecture, “it is a kind of asymmetrical and irregular buildings that resemble tents in nature ”.

         Tents in Africa 

In many regions of Africa, tents are known by many names such as Khema, Suradeq (as in Egypt).

Photo credit : Pinterest 

A colourful interior of tent in Mauritania, Africa 

                  Khayamiya

Khayamiya means tent in Arabic language. It is mainly produced along the street of Tent makers in Cairo, Egypt. 

Ironically the city that predates Cairo was called Al-Fustat which means a , “large tent ”, or encampment. 

 

Khayamiya is a rich decorative applique textile. This intricate applique work  is mostly done by men. It has historically adorned the interiors of Egyptian tents called Suradeq and dates back to the Mamluk rule in the region. 

 

       

      Persian Tents ,Iran 

The tradition of Garden tent pavilions trace back to the mobile palaces of 12th century Iran. They were incredibly ornate tents with hundreds of golden struts, silk coloured applique work sable lining.

Miniature paintings offer an insight into the lifestyle of people. 

A miniature painting from 16th century manuscript of Nizami’s Khamsa ( Five Poems) 

Photo credit : teachmideast. org

A Camp Scene : Harvard University Art Museum. 

               Octagonal Tent 

Octagonal Tent on display at Saint Louis Art Museum. 

This Small Octagonal Pavilion Tent , created in 1900 served as a garden pavilion or fabric gazebo that offered a shady retreat from the hot sun. 

Featuring Persian silk, cotton,metallic yarns and intricate velvet and embroidery design this pleasure tent was ideal for outdoor activities. 

            Royal Tent ( Qajar Dynasty) 

A rare Royal tent from Iran on display at the Cleveland Museum of Art  July 26th 2016 .It belongs to Muhammad Shah (1834-1848) ruler of the Qajar dynasty in Iran . 

The interior roof panels display birds and blossoming branches while the tent ‘s exterior is covered in a plain cotton cloth. 

                 Siah Chador 

 Persia or Iran has one of the largest Nomadic populations in the world. It’s well known tribes are Qashqai and Bakhtiari tribes. 

They live in a black tent, made of goat wool which is called Siah Chador or Black tent.The tent cloth provides a dense shade in the daytime and protects against the cold in the night. 

These types of tents are also popular among the Bedouin tribes of Arabia. 

 

These tents are richly decorated with exquisite carpets, cushions and kilims.

             Nomadic Tent Hotel 

The first nomadic tent hotel in Iran was inaugurated in the ancient town of Kowsar in the North West Ardabil province. 

         Mughal India 

The Mughal Emperor’s of India were great connoisseur of Arts, as such arts and culture flourished in India under their patronage. 

Sir Thomas Roe ( English Ambassador to the Mughal court from 1615-1618) observed, “walls or screens made of panels of hand painted chintz or red embroidered cloth “.

 

Qanat panels provided an important element for the interior decoration of the Mughal court. 

Emperor Jahangir’s interest in botany and the pattern of a flowering shrub became one of the most popular motifs. 

The Mughal emperor’s portable cities were created from textiles. Like the Ottomans these tents came in handy for a variety of purposes like feasts, recieving ambassadors etc. 

Photo credit : Pinterest

 Photo credit : Pinterest

Fatehpur Sikri has many buildings that have rings in the courtyards which are believed to serve as tie downs for tent ropes. 

               Shahi Lal Dera 

Shahi Lal Dera literally translates into Royal Red Tent. It was the great Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan ‘s travelling palace. 

It housed all his necessities and luxuries of the royalty , this tent is believed to be looted during a battle, whose victors were the rulers of Jodhpur who took back with them to their fort in Mehrangarh. 

       

             Tipu Sultan’s Tent 

18th century mammoth chintz tent used by Mysore ruler Tipu Sultan (1750-1799) 

Displayed at the Fabric of India at the Victoria and Albert Museum. 

Shamiana ( Then and Now) 

Photo credit : Pinterest

A Shamiana or Pandal as it is commonly known is an Indian ceremonial tent, shelter or awning which is commonly used for outdoor parties, weddings and feasts.

It’s side walls are removable. It’s external fabric can be plain, multicolored or patterned . The four corners are supported by wooden poles. 

Delhi Durbar 1911

The British in India adopted this style during the Delhi Durbar held in 1911 to commemorate Queen Victoria’s coronation as Empress of India. 

My Bismillah day 

My Bismillah day photo taken in 1980,during the occasion of Milad e Ali in my grandparents house in Lucknow. Two well known Shia clerics Maulana Tahir Jarwali and Maulana Kalbe Abid Sahab graced this momentous occasion in my life. Note the Shamiana textile walls in the background. 

                 Travelling tent 

Former Libyan leader Muammar Gaddafi, prefered portable Bedouin shelter both at home and on the road.

He famously met world leaders , politicians and celebrities in his portable tent. 

In 2009 , he caused a stir when he wanted to pitch his Bedouin tent in Central Park for UN General Assembly but was not granted  permission by the authorities. 

                 Tented Rooms 

Tent Rooms date back from Napoleon Bonaparte but like most of his ideas the origins are from Ancient Rome. 

During the 18th century, tents caught the imagination and fascination  amongst the elite in France and Europe. 

Textiles used as wall coverings , provide good insulation and beautiful interior decorations. The space looks cozier.

Tented rooms have been very much chosen object of interest by interior designers around the world and their clients .These rooms ooze out warm, colourful and classic interiors . 

I have chosen some examples for my readers to enjoy the cool, classic interiors of a tented room. 

Tented interior of American interior designer Angelo Donghia ( 1935-1985) 

The dining room in Shangri La, Hawaii 

The dining room is Doris Duke’s interpretation of an Islamic style tent. 

Bar Palladio ( Palace Niwas Hotel) Narain Singh Road, Jaipur. 

                 City of Tents 

Photo credit : Pinterest

Mina is located inside a low lying valley in the province of Makkah, Saudi Arabia. 

Mina is also known as the, City of Tents , in modern use. It provides temporary shelter to around 3 million pilgrims who visit to take part during the Annual Hajj pilgrimage. 

40,000 custom designed white tents offer modern comfort to vary pilgrims, a luxury available to only a few privileged in the past. 

           Conclusion 

Tents and their use have come a long way from being an item of great aesthetic beauty, fit for a king to a child room accesory, a small cozy space within a room, ( Ikea  sells extremely popular portable tents fit for children to play in) 

Photo credit : Pinterest

A way of life in the past and still standing strong, embracing  the future. 

Crimson touch of Telia Rumal.

                  Introduction

The grids of black, white and red , the dark and crisp colours of the Telia Rumal are a feast for the eyes.

I had always wanted them in my collection for a very  long time , and tried my luck to have one from late Mrs. Suraiya Hasan Bose ( a pioneer in reviving traditional Indian textiles) whose niece Mrs. Anjum Pasha  is a very dear mentor, friend and relative, but fate had it’s way ,it was not meant to be…..

Photo credit : thehindu. com

Suraiya Apa as she was fondly called breathed her last peacefully in Hyderabad in September 2021 at the age of 93 leaving behind a rich legacy of reviving crafts like Himroo, Paithani, Kalamkari,Gadwal, Pochampally, Dharmavaram, Jamavar, Mashroo and Telia Rumal and traditional dhurries which were unique to her loom and saving them from extinction.

                  Telia Rumal

Telia Rumal is a double -ikat weave, an art of Ikat tradition using natural dyes.It is one of the most intricate and labourious  double-ikat weave . 

Ikat is derieved from Malay – Indonesian, Mang -ikat which means to bind or knot, as the yarn that goes into the weave is tied and dyed before being woven.

It is an intricate weave on cotton loom woven in square or rectangular  cloth that display a wide variety of a geometrical design and motif layout with generally three colours.

Photo credit : asiantextilestudies.com

Only three countries in the world now produce double -ikat  and they are India, Japan and Indonesia.

                   Chirala

Photo credit :Australian National University

History of this fabric goes back to the 19th century in a place called Chirala in coastal Andhra Pradesh.

Three important factors have been attributed for Telia weave success in Chirala,1.) Soil suitable to grow cotton on. 2.) Proximity to ports 3.) and Availability of dyes.

                    Word

The word Telia is derived from Til (sesame) Tel or oil, since the yarn for the textile is treated with liberal use of sesame oil. 

Rumal means handkerchief  or facial wipe

These rumals  were originally square double ikat made of fine cotton. 

Photo credit :asiantextilestudies.com

It was locally called a chowkas or square (because of it’s size which was 44 inch by 44 inch square shape)and Asia Rumal  by export traders in countries where it was exported.

                     Colours

Photo credit :dailyhunt.in

Traditionally three colours have been used in making these rumals, Red, White and Black.

Dyes used are Alizarin (Red), Indigo ( Blue), Iron shavings (Black).

                      Process

Telia Rumal is a method for the oil treatment of yarn. It is a unique tie and die technique that uses oil for the treatment of the yarn that helps to retain softness and also has a distinct smell of gingerly oil.

Photo credit :fibre2fashion.com

                   Preparation

Photo credit : artsandculture. google. com

1.) Preparation of the yarn is an important element into making a Telia weave. traditionally yarn is treated with oils of sesame, castor seed, ginger oil  along with sheep/cow dung. This process takes 21 days.

2.) The treated yarn which is used for the warp (length) and weft (width) is tie and dyed in accordance with a predetermined geometric design.

Photo credit :livemint.com

3.) The process of weaving starts with the design, number of threads and colour scheme being plotted on a graph in grid design , which is then transferred through ties onto the yarn.

Photo credit :arts and culture. google. com

Great amount of practice and perfection is required for the weft and warp to be meticulously converted into an artistic design.

The number of motifs, requires more complex technique to weave.

 Photo credit :Pinterest

This weave demands, passion, skill, dedication, hard work, time and effort on behalf of the artisans.

Most expensive cotton handloom  saree

It takes around 2/3 months to weave a single Telia Rumal Saree,depending upon the design and motifs, and is considered as one of the most Expensive cotton handloom saree, with an authentic oil treated Telia Rumal Saree fetching Rs.1.5 lakhs upwards. 

                        Motifs

Photo credit : Pinterest

The very nature of the Telia Rumal consists of geometrical designs framed in a border with margins and lines.

The earliest Rumals used more than 100 nakshas or designs in various combinations and were renowned for their finesse.

Most of these motifs were inspired by activities in daily life, local fauna and flora, fruits and even local games. The number of motifs required more complex technique and difficulty to weave.

The following motifs below are described to get an idea of symbols behind each and every pattern.

1.) This motif is called Pachchis Kana, represents a popular local board game played by four people.

(2.) This  motif is Udita Kallu, which means squirrel eye.

(3.) This star shaped motif is simply called Nakhatram, meaning star or Mallepula (jasmine) representing purity, kindness and marital life.

(4.) The motif Mudda Banti represents the petals of the marigold flower (banti), or a bunch of marigold flowers. Marigolds are considered pure and have become an important Hindu religious symbol.

(5.) Heart-shaped motif symbolizes love is called Badam , after the almond or badam seed.

             An all- purpose cloth

The Telia Rumals are uniform in size and are almost square cotton pieces, originally used as an all – purpose cloth.

They were woven in a variety of sizes and types such as :

1.) It was used to make a Rumal or ( handkerchief)  for neck , 2.) Lungi (man’s hip cloth), 3.) Dhoti ( longer than lungi ) ,4.) Mardan ( turban cloths)5.) Dupatta and 6.)Saree.  

                   Usage

A fisherman wearing a Telia lungi on the coast of Andhra Pradesh

Photo credit :  asiantextilesstudies. com

1.)  Fishermen in Mumbai and Andhra Pradesh used them as lungi or loincloth, turbans or shoulder cloths because the oil in this cloth did not let salt water seep through.

Telia Rumal fisherman’s design.

Photo credit :Lakshmi Rao

The red colour and oily fragrance also played an important part in attracting fish and the fishermen never returned empty handed.

2.) This craft was also popular and patronized during the Nizam of Hyderabad’s rule. The Royalty and elite class of Hyderabad fell in love with the weave and commissioned exquisite pieces. 

The wealthy Zamindar’s or landlords and government officials especially the Patel’s wore Telia Rumal  as a Mark of status and high power.

3.) It was used by the Cowherds of Chirala,lungis by the agricultural Labour and the Washerman community around Hyderabad. Since it was treated with castor oil, it kept the mosquitoes away.

4.) Telia Rumal were worn as a veil by the princesses at the erstwhile court  of the Nizam of Hyderabad.

Silver gilt embroidered dupatta from Hyderabad region, Calico Museum of Textiles.Ahmedabad

Photo credit :asiantextilestudies.com

Dupattas patterned after Telia Rumal were also used by ladies of aristocratic Hyderabad families. The dupattas were often embroidered in shadow work and embellished in fine gold and silver gilt threads.

Shadow work  hand embroidery for Hyderabad elite. 

Photo credit : Lakshmi Rao

5.) Telia Rumal’s have been used in the Dargah of Ajmer Sharif in Rajasthan as an offering by devotees, where some devotees offer 50 or even 100 pieces of cloth to the shrine.

Devotees during Basant Panchmi festival at Dargah of Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti, Ajmer ( India)

Photo credit : Pinterest

The Khadims and descendants of the dargah at Ajmer have often been seen wearing the Telia over their shoulders.

Photo credit : Pinterest

                  Export item

6.) Telia ikats were initially produced for local use but later on were manufactured as a trade cloth for the export market.

The geometric designs of the Rumals  were extremely popular and appreciated in the Middle East and was later exported to West Asia, Africa, Mynammar ( Burma) , Aden ( Yemen) and Bangladesh. 

It became part of a bridegroom’s wedding attire in Yemen and a very important accessory during festive season’s.

7.) Turbans and Keffiyeh 

Local Arabs from Yemen dancing in a festival .

Photo credit : Pinterest

In Arabian countries, the Muslim men used to wear these Telia Rumal as headscarves  or keffiyeh and also around their necks since it’s tel or oil  protected the skin from dryness when worn in the extreme desert climate of Arabian lands.

Desert protection .

Photo credit :Pinterest

This fabric and it’s oil- treatment catered to the needs of the desert people as it could control radiation, retain moisture and keep them cool during the hot blazing summers and the same fabric kept them warm in winters. 

The oily finish of the Rumals was said to be valued for keeping the head cool, and free of dust.

                Authenticity

To check for authenticity, customers would sniff the cloth and chew a thread  from the edge to check for the oil and alizarin content.

                  Fall of Rumal

Telia Rumal’s fell out of favor during the mid 1990’s due to the changing tastes and increased use of power looms. Power looms and mills get much better subsidy, easy profit and quick returns. 

The printed imitation cloths robbed the Master Weaver’s and dyers of their livehood and by the early 1970’s there were only around 10 families weaving rumals in Chirala , which gradually shrunk to only one (1 ) family weaving the Telia till 1979.

Chirala (the birthplace of Telia Rumal) was eclipsed by Puttapaka (also in Andhra Pradesh now Telengana) , and soon Puttapaka became the centre of Telia weave all through the efforts of Mr. Ganjam Govardhan ( Master Weaver) who learnt  this craft in Chirala and popularised it in his village of Puttapaka and neighbouring areas.

Printed imitation of Telia Rumals, Made in England, early 20th century. Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Photo credit : asiantextilestudies. com

              Telia Rumal Now

Telia Rumal is now woven around Nalgonda district, in villages of Pochampalli and Puttapaka in at least 20 villages .

The traditional weaver community of Padmasalis and Devangas over generations have attained high degree of skill in weaving double- ikat.

Role of the government. (Past and Present)

In the 1950 Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay  (Chairman of All India Handicrafts Board) convinced the weavers to translate the Telia design into saris.

     Festival of India -1980

Mrs. Pupal Jayakar (advisor to former Prime Minister of India Mrs. Indira Gandhi) met weavers including Gajam Govardhan in 1980 and encouraged them to create different patterns as part of Festival of India display and also encouraged the weavers to set up bigger looms. This exhibition travelled to countries like France, UK, USA ,Moscow ,Sweden ,Denmark and Japan and displayed the work of  Indian craftsmen. 

   Viswakarma exhibition- 1987

Viswakarma exhibition held in New Delhis part of the Festival of India ) this exhibition too encouraged and exposed the weavers to National as well as International clientele.

Weaver’s Co-operative Society and Service Centre’s also worked for the development Telia Rumal and it’s design.

Recently in a bid to re-launch Telia Rumal, an integral part of Ikat handloom culture, the Telengana government showcased them on National Handloom Day in Hyderabad.

                   Craftsmen

Amongst the list of Master Craftsmen of Telia Rumal two names stand out Mr. Gunti Bhaskar Rao ( Chirala) and Mr. Ganjam Goverdhan (Puttapaka) 

 1.) Mr. Gunti Bhaskar Rao ( Chirala)

His figurative work including modern images of airplanes, record players and clocks are admired worldwide and are displayed at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

 Collection in Victoria and Albert Museum, London

 2.) Mr. A. Ganjam Goverdhan (Puttapaka)

Shri. A. G. Goverdhan hailing from Andhra Pradesh is a Master Weaver of Telia Rumal.

Photo credit :paramparik karigar. com

He has been instrumental in training over 800 artisans in villages about Telia weave and spreads awareness through lectures and demonstrations in different cities across India and abroad.

Photo credit : paramparik karigar. com

In recognition for his contribution in the field of handicrafts Mr.A.G.Goverdhan has been awarded Padma Shri in 2011, UNESCO Award of Excellence for Handicraft 2002 , National Master Weaver Award 2006 amongst various other awards. 

He retails his work through Murali Saree Emporium in Hyderabad and can be contacted on 09848024642.

                      GI Tag

Geographical Indications Tag or simply GI Tag is an indication used to identify goods having special characteristics originated from a definitive geographical territory.

GI insulates the uniqueness of the product from duplicates and copycats from other regions.

Photo credit :current hunt. com

Puttapaka Telia Rumal was accorded GI tag status on 12th May 2020 and is now acclaimed across the world and can be officially produced in  it’s geographic area.

            Colours and Motifs

                    Colours

The changing times have changed the colour palette too of the Telia weave with colours like orange, yellow, mustard, green, pink, dark and light blue, turquoise being incorporated into the weave in order to attract younger generation. 

Traditionally cotton was only used to weave the Telia Rumal but now silk has also been widely used .

                       Motifs

The earlier patterns used to be strictly geometric and vegetal patterns due to the preference of the patrons, but after the 1930’s the craftsmen started incorporating figurative elements like lions, elephants, birds, clocks and even aeroplanes which required better weaving skills.

Photo credit : artsandculture. google. com

Motifs like flowers,leaves, elephants, birds, lions,swastika, wheel, half moon and rangoli have been also been extensively used in the weave to expand it’s approach to the clientele.

Award winning 100 non -repititive motifs made in natural dyes,cotton from Andhra Pradesh, from the collection of Padma Shri Gajam Govardhan on display in Bikaner House on the occasion of World Ikat Textiles on 16th September 2018 Delhi ( India).

           In Museum Collections

Telia Rumal’s have found a place in many Private Collections around the world which includes collection in Zurich ,Robert Guild now in David Richardson collection.

Telia dupatta or lungi handwoven in natural dyes from Chirala ( Andhra Pradesh) from David Robertson collection.

They are also found in many prestigious Museum Collections such as AIDTTA in Paris, Museum of Ethnography in Basel, Fine Arts Museum, San Francisco closer home Jagdish and Kamla Mittal’s Museum, Crafts Museum, Delhi and Sanskriti Museum of Indian Textiles, Delhi ( India)

Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Telia from Andhra Pradesh, V&A London late 19th century. 1993.

Photo credit :asiantextilestudies.com

Calico Museum of Textiles , Ahmedabad

Telia dupatta and lungi.

Photo credit :asiantextilestudies.com

Delhi Textile Museum, Delhi

Sanskriti Museum of Indian Textiles, Delhi

             In Popular Culture

Telia Rumal’s have found popularity amongst Bollywood actresses like Shabana Azmi, Shruti Hasan , Kiron Kher amongst others.

It has been favoured by women politicians  cutting across party lines ,who can be seen donning the traditional weave like Sonia Gandhi, late Mrs. Shiela Dixit and Smriti Irani etc.

                     Movies

Susman (1987) directed by Shyam Benegal starring Om Puri and Shabana Azmi has been loosly inspired by the life of (Master Weaver) Mr.Ganjam Govardhan and shows the plight and struggle of handweavers.

It engages and informs us about the hardships  of Indian craftsmen.

Video grabs from the film Ankur (1974) directed by Shyam Benegal showing a character wearing the Telia Rumal over his shoulder .

             Modern variations

The Telia Rumal nowadays are not restricted to only turbans and loincloth but are used in the production of variety of products which include, Bedcovers, tablecloths ,cushion covers, wall hanging ,table cloths and other home furnishings and upholstery ,blouses, stoles,skirts, kurtas,sarees, bags and much more.

Websites like I-tokri, Jaypore, Gaatha, Masmaara, GoCoop ,Kalamargam ,Indu -bindu etc have been instrumental in raising awareness about this priceless handicraft to consumers across the globe, especially the one’s who have the money and taste to buy this exclusive product.

                     Conclusion

Although the story of Telia Rumal looks something  like ,‘Rise above the Ashes’, this intricate and laborious weave still needs to get recognition and appreciation it truly deserves.

Only a few designers ,individuals and co- operative societies promote and showcase this handicraft and it’s originality has been contemporised and compromised to a large extent.

If only we could turn the tide and see through the vision of our forefathers we can stand true to our crafts.

The Lock of Unity (Manichitrathazhu : The ornate lock)

Photo credit : JayaHe GVK Museum

Introduction :

In 2018 ,while on a trip to the Museum of Islamic Arts, Kuala Lampur Malaysia, my eyes glanced on a popular South Indian lock …… the trishul shaped lock typical of Kerala mansions.

After returning from that journey I tried to quench my thirst about that unique lock and upon research found some unique aspects which can only represent the spirit of India, it’s multicultural, diverse mosaic of faiths, religions and culture.

                         Word

Photo credit : Tumblr

Manichitrathazhu , the magnificent door lock is an old traditional metal engraving with a lock which is widely used in traditional Kerala mansions or (Tharavadus) .

Manichitrathazhu is famous for it’s unique style of traditional metal engraving artwork.

The word Manichitrathazhu is made of three words, Mani, Chithra and Thazu

Mani means bell

Chitra means embellishments or creative artwork on it

Thazu means the lock

In short it is a bell-art-lock  which is an age old traditional lock of Kerala.

                        Uses

In olden days, only in kingdom territory the ancient homes, Nalukettu (four sided mansion) and Ettukettu (eight sided mansion )were using these locks.

One of my close friend who actually had the privilege of living in a Nalukettu in her formative years informs me that, every lock had a different sound and set of keys, it was a huge house with at least 18 rooms and a central open courtyard.

A Nalukettu House

These wonderful door locks were ornate in traditional manner mainly to embellish the front door of mansions in Kerala.

They were usually preferred for split doors to get a traditional look ,which also added beauty to the stately mansions.

This special lock was used in the ancient times to lock doors where treasures and expensive items were kept .

The door of Ara ( the main storage room for all the valuable including essential grains ), or the underground chamber in the house usually had a Manichitrathazhu lock on it’s latch.

Wooden chests and boxes

Photo credit : Pinterest

In an era where banks and lockers were not available, the valuable items were usually stored in huge wooden boxes made of Jackfruit wood and other strong wood , such wooden chests also had the beautiful and sturdy Manichitrathazhu lock securing the valuables stored inside.

                  Materials

Manichitrathazhu locks are made of finest quality of Brass to keep it glowing for a long time.

In old Kerala tharavadus or ancestral homes, this brass bolt used on double doors was work of art in itself. It was beautiful and sturdy at the same time.

Photo credit : 1st Dibs.

Polychrome Bronze, iron and copper was also used in the ancient times to make this ornate lock.

Photo credit : LOT- ART

The Hill Museum, ( ancient palace of Royal Family of Cochin) has a huge steel Manichitrathazhu.

These locks weigh upto 3 to 5 kgs and are priced from Rs.12,000 to 55,000 depending upon the gauge, design and door design of the mansion.

         Symbols : Lock of Unity 

One unique aspect of these traditional Kerala doors is that they have symbols of  at least 5 five religions engraved on them.

They include Trishul (Hinduism), Crescent( Islam) Cross ( Christianity) , Menorah candle holder ( Judaism) and Shinto . 

Photo credit : Indo-Portugese Museum, Kochi

If observed carefully these ornate locks have symbols which represent different faiths. A true work of art, secular in nature.

It represents every faith under it’s ornate design as if to convey that we all are the Children of God, no matter which religion we come from.

With the changing times people have customized these locks according to their choices, with motifs like trees, birds, peacock etc but the original shape of the Manichitrathazhu remains the Trishul shape lock.

 Photo credit : Bhoomi hardware

             The lock that rings

Special feature of this traditional Kerala lock is that it rings while locking and unlocking which remains it’s safety feature to this day.

The members of the house knew who, when and what time the lock made the noise.

It was like an alarm that alerted the members of any forgiving intruders or robbers if they ever tried to barge into the premises. Every lock made a different sound, it had a different set of keys made exclusively by highly skilled  hands.

                How it is made

(1.) Brass metal sheet is measured and cut in desired shape with the help of a L- shaped ruler.

(2.) It is heated and embossed, heating and pressing is done 2/3 times to get a perfect shape with minus cracks.

(3.) Once ready with embossing, the two sides of the traditional door latch ( trishul shape) are joined with small screws.

Using cutter and files, sharp edges are smoothened and unwanted things are removed.

(4.) Once done with the trishul part, artistic work will start.

(5.) These special locks have a unique key which is made in a single key. 

(6.) The main artisan will do the important part of the lock system. He ensures the sound of the bell.

(7.) There are two (2) types of lock single and double lock. Interesting part is that the screws themselves fit the door locks.

(8.)  Waste pieces of brass are melted in Ceramic Graphite Crucible, coal is made of coconut shell which burns for a long time.

(9.) Last part is done with polishing.

All photo credit : D-source. in

                    Museums

Manichitrathazhu have found a generous place not only in traditional mansions of Kerala and places of worship but also as part of a living heritage proudly displayed in various Boutique hotels and resorts across the State and in the glistening glass cases of Museums ,which display the history and culture of the region especially in it’s home state of Kerala.

(1.) Indo – Portugese Museum, Kochi ( Kerala)

Fort Emanuel is the name given to the Fort which was built by the Portuguese in Kochi, today it is called Fort Kochi, but little remains of the fort today.

In one small section of the fort which is open to the public is the Indo – Portuguese Museum.

(2.) Folklore Museum of Kerala, Kochi (Kerala)

Kerala Folklore Museum is located on the outskirts of Ernakulam.

It is a Private Museum, from the collection of Mr.George Thaliath, who has been an antique dealer and collector for over 30 years.

Opened in 2009 , Kerala Folklore Museum houses 5000 artifacts , collected and created from ancient houses and beautiful temples.

This architectural marvel was completed by using 25 antique and heritage structure from early 17th century to early 20thcentury with artifacts showing the culture and heritage of Kerala and covers three architectural styles of Kerala, (Malabar, Kochi and Travancore) .

(3.) Antique Museum, Kochi ( Kerala)

(4.) JayaHe GVK New Museum, Mumbai (Maharashtra)

JayaHe New GVK New Museum is considered India’s biggest Art Museum located inside the Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport  (CSIA).

It is spread across 3 kms, a treasure trove of more than 5000 exhibits that showcase the rich culture, art and heritage of both ancient and contemporary India.

Picture credit : Pinterest

Visitors and passengers can savour the exquisite displays that spread across three levels, from departure, baggage claim and exit gates.

(5.) Dakshina Chitra, Chennai ( Tamil Nadu)

Dakshina Chitra, located in Muthukadu, Chennai was founded by Dr. Deborah Thiagarajan and run by Madras Craft Foundation ( NGO).

Founded in 1998 it exhibits, preserves and promotes art, architecture, lifestyle, crafts and performing arts of South India.

Picture credit : Artnlight blogspot

It houses 18 heritage structures, most of them traditional houses of South India mainly (Kerala, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh) . These heritage properties were purchased, dismantled and relocated.

(6.) Sanskriti Museum, Gurgaon  (Haryana)

Sanskriti Museums are a set of three Museums namely, Museum of Everyday Art, Museum of Indian terracotta (tribal art) and Textile Museum.

Picture credit: Google Arts and culture

Itwas founded by Mr. O. P. Jain in 1990 and is situated on Mehrauli- Gurgaon Road.

 (7.)  Juma Masjid, Kottayam

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Juma Masjid at Thazhathangadi  is situated at Kerala’s Kottayam district. It is considered as One of the Oldest Mosques in India and is more than 1000 years old.

It is known for it’s intricate wood carvings and architecture.

Photo credit : Wikimedia

In recent years this Mosque allowed women to come and worship in the premises.

(8.) Kumarakom Lake Resort.

Acclaimed as the finest Luxury Heritage Resort in India, it is nestled on the serene banks of the Lake Vembanad.

Photo credit : Pinterest

This luxury resort offers the best of Kerala, in it’s former heritage, while offering a complete range of new age facilities.

(9.) Coconut Lagoon, Kumarakom

Coconut Lagoon, a CGH Earth Resort celebrates the backwaters of Kerala, coconut groves, backwater canals and it’s vast bio- diversity.

The villas in this resort are over 150 years old, carefully dismantled and transplanted in sections from houses that have fallen into ruins.

An inspirational story of craft and conservation.

(10.) Hotels , Homestays and Resorts

Saving our heritage is a collective responsibility of  all  citizens, states, governments and organizations and the Indian state of Kerala has beautifully  managed to preserve and protect it’s unique heritage.

Amongst  the numerous heritage properties that have turned into resorts ,boutique hotels and homestays (both high-end and budget) , I’ve managed to find a chosen few….

Rossitta Wood Castle Hotel, Cochin

An 18th century mansion which is now opened to the public.

Vismaya Lake Heritage, Cherthala Kerala

It is a boutique hotel owned by a Belgian couple.

Punnamada Resort

                 Craftsmen

Photo credit : ingos-sketchbook. com

Thankfully this ancient art is still being practiced by craftsmen and people, resorts, hotels and places of worship do acknowledge their work and give them orders.

I have listed the names of craftsmen ,their address ,phone numbers in case anyone wishes to order and give them work as it would help us all to preserve this unique artform.

(1.) Mr.Sridharan is a well known Manichitrathazhu maker, he has an experience of 60/65years

He can be contacted on these numbers.

JB Metal crafts

Thrissur Kerala

09447290375 (Udayan) , 09447604745 ( Viswanathan)

(2.)Gallant Metal Art

Chengamanad P. O.

Aluva 683578,Cochin 

Kerala ,Tel : 91 484 -2475639 , Website http://www.manchithrathazhu.com

(3.) Manikandan K. C.

Kuzur, Thrissur

Ph-0480 2777109,Mob-9495025944

(4.) Mannar Crafts

Venus vessels, Alappuzha

Opposite, Muslim Masjid Mannar

689622

                Online portals

In an age where everything is available at a click of a button, antique and newly made Manichitrathazhu are also easily available on various online websites like , Amazon India, Mannar crafts, Manichitrathazhu. com etc, they sell new versions of this ancient locks. 

Photo credit : Mannar crafts.

While numerous websites and auction houses like Saffron Art, FEA Home, Indigo Antique, Live Auctioneers, 1stDibs, Etsy, Catawiki, Antic Swiss, Tierra Del Lagarto, Antikeo .com etc sell these ancient locks at a much higher price.

         Manichitrathazhu Movie

On an interesting note, Manichitrathazhu, was a movie which was released in 1993 , written by Madhu Muttam  and directed by Fazil it went on to become a cult movie in Malayalam. 

It was a  psychological -thriller which fetched a National Film Award for Best Actress to  Shobana, National Award for Best Popular Film, Kerala State Awards etc.

It was later remade in  four (4) Indian languages Bhool bhulaiya in Hindi Chandramukhi in Tamil, Apthamitra in Kannada, Rajmohol  in Bengali language etc.

Conclusion

For my precious darling Anam, a blessing from high above that I would cherish for life.

One day I casually asked her, “What do you think I should write next,” after giving much thought she answered ,“Amma why don’t you write on old locks”, with hesitation I said ,“yes I will, but first let me complete the article I’m writing now”, time passed and here I am writing about a lock, which is not only vintage but also has a very deep symbolic meaning behind it.

I wish Anam and her generation to never give up on finding stories behind an object, on cherishing  the old ways of life because in the end it will all come back to full circle…… I really hope it will.

Cartier’s Inspiration

The Written Batik

Batik is a technique of wax-resist dyeing which is applied to a whole cloth or cloth made using this technique.

It is made either by drawing dots and lines of the resist with a spouting tool called a canting, or by printing the resist by a copper stamp called a cap.

Word

The word ‘Batik’, is Javanese in origin. In Javanese dialect it is called Amba titik, Amba (to write) and titik (dot).

Batik around the world. 

A tradition of making Batik is found in various countries, including Indonesia,Singapore,Malaysia,India,Bangladesh,Sri Lanka , Egypt ,Azerbaijan and Nigeria. 

Batik is featured in the National Airline Uniforms of  Singapore Airlines, Malaysia Airlines and Garuda Airlines (Indonesia ). 

African version of Batik is different from the Asian version.

Batik was originally practiced by the Yoruba tribe of Nigeria, they used cassava starch or rice paste as a resist dye. Soninke and Wolof people of Senegal use rice paste and Bamana people of Mali use mud as a resist dye.

The African wax prints (Dutch wax prints) was introduced during the colonial era.

In India, the Khatri community of Gujarat are known to be the original artisans of batik handicraft.

Photo credit : grandmaslegacy. wordpress

     

        Indonesian Batik

Batik is the traditional fabric of Indonesia. It’s technique originated from Indonesia. 

Indonesia has 34 provinces and each province has it’s own patterns and techniques of making Batik. There are  symbolic and deep meanings behind every  Batik pattern . 

It’s a way of life for them , batik patterns play a huge role in Indonesian society from cradle to grave. It is forms a huge part in day to day activities from traditional, religious or formal events. It’s a way of life in Indonesian culture. 

                    Java 

Batik from Indonesia is well known, especially in the island of Java. 

The Indonesian island of Java, in particular stands out as a Cradle of Batik, boasting some of the oldest traditions related to the art form.

Indonesian woman  creating Batik, 

Photo credit :Pinterest

UNESCO Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity . 

On October 2nd, 2009,UNESCO officially recognised the Batik (written batik) or Batik tulis and (stamped batik)or Batik cap as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible heritage of Humanity from Indonesia. 

            National Batik Day

Photo credit :Pinterest

Since then 2nd October has been celebrated as National Batik Day in Indonesia.

In 2018, the Indonesian government launched certificate for Batik as a cultural profession. Batik producers can obtain these certificates by undergoing several assessments, including batik making process, philosophy and the use of natural dyes. 

Madiba Shirt 

Photo credit : Pinterest

Nelson Mandela was a noted wearer of batik, especially Indonesian batik as such it was dubbed as Madiba shirt, based on his Xhosa clan name. 

 

         Bengkulu Batik

Bengkulu is a province located in the West Coast of Sumatra Island. 

Batik came to Bengkulu in the 16th century together with Islam  when traders from India, China came together through sea ,great cultural exchanges took place.

Some attribute this to Prince Sentol Alibasyah and his family in 18th century, when they were exiled in Bengkulu. 

During this time he took time to teach batik to the local community. The first batik users and craftsmen were his descendants. 

Batik Bengkulu is also known as Batik Besurek . 

Bengkulu province has a unique cultural product in the form of Batik with besurek (written) motifs. It is the identity of Bengkulu province. 

                      Word 

The word Besurek is from Bengkulu language with 

ber meaning letter and surek meaning writing. 

Besurek is a Bengkulu dialect which means written. Batik Besurek is a writing -letter-like batik.

In local language Besurek means to write. 

The lettered cloth was full of meaning in every stroke used only on special occasions. 

Arabic letters

Arabic letters are characteristics of Batik Besurek. The motif is usually in the form of bare Arabic letters that have no special meaning except for some types of cloth especially for traditional ceremony. 

Apart from Bengkulu, this fabric is easily found in Java , Sumatra, Jambi and Palembang . 

Zoomorphic script

Photo credit : Pinterest

Zoomorphic designs are designs that create the shape of an animal ( zoo – animal from Greek morph – shape) 

Zoomorphic calligraphy takes words and shape them into form of an animal. 

Batik Besurek uses Zoomorphic calligraphy to lend beauty and aesthetic to it’s craft. 

                     Uses

Clothing made of Batik Besurek was of high value, it was sacred and exalted ,owned by the royalty, noble families and high officials in the past. 

It was used as a Headband or typical Bengkulu hats in wedding processions. These head scarfs were probably worn during prayers and rituals. 

Bengkulu batik was used in a variety of official and regional engagements ,implementation of traditional ceremonies such as marriages like dressing the bridal chamber, bridesmaid, baby shaving and swing decoration( to bring the child luck), as a cover for sacred tombs and the dead were shrouded in funerary batik or cover over the coffin.

 Square and Rectangular Batiks 

Square batiks were used to cover the Quran or to kneel during prayers by covering the head or simply as a decorative wall hanging  . 

Certain Islamic prayers and sayings were written to serve as talismanic charm. 

Photo credit : E-bay

Large rectangular batiks have also been used as a head cloth during traditional ceremonies and rituals. 

They have been used especially in funeral activity, tabut tradition as well as circumcision ritual 

Photo credit : Dharamawangsa. art

Sarongs, banners and even jackets were made in this calligraphy.

Photo credit : Jakarta Textile Museum

Besurek Batik has meaning in the Islamic rituals and have deep symbolic meanings as well ,certain Surahs from the Holy Quran , spiritual sayings or poetry written on the textile all serve as talismanic charms to protect  the wearer, providing him/her shelter from all harm and evil. 

            Writing procedure

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Batik Besurek  is a time consuming process .After writing the batik image design on to the fabric base

Craftsmen work on batik with simple tools. They usually use a small table, a night pot (batik candle), a small stove and a canting.

Photo credit : Iwarebatik. com

Before making batik, a Besurek pattern is drawn on Cotton or Silk , after that Batik work begins. 

Each piece of Besurek cloth measuring 2 25 meters by one meter is done in 3/4 days. 

Traditional Besurek batik cloth can take approximately one month to make. The length of time it takes also depends on the complexity of the pattern being drawn on the cloth. 

The Batik Besurek textile is generally made up of 8 design steps, ranging from wax patterns to colour process. 

This long process makes Bengkulu’s original Batik Besurek cloth sold at higher price. 

The price of Bengkulu cloth depends upon the quality of workmanship, pattern and quality of material. 

Fabrics 

Traditionally Cotton and Silk cloth have been used to decorate Batik Besurek with various patterns. Nowadays with changing lifestyle’s other materials have also been introduced. 

     Quick ways to Bengkulu

To speed up the process of making the Besurek cloth some craftsmen have combined it with stamps, making it easily available in bulk in the market.

The emergence of stamp technique or print has made Batik Besurek affordable and popular. Available easily in the markets and online websites this has hurt the traditional craftsmanship like never before. 

                  Motifs 

Arabic letters are the main characteristic of Batik Besurek . 

In it’s development Batik Besurek the Arabic letters are combined with other motifs taking inspiration from the various flora and fauna found in the Bengkulu province. 

Batik Besurek consists of 12 motifs , that are sourced from nature, combined with the script and are mostly symbolic in meaning. 

1.) Kaganga – writing script 

2.) Kalligraphy motif –

3.) Burung Kuau – symbol God 

4.) Relung Paku -wheel of human life

5.) Jasmine flowers- beauty, elegance and prayer

6.) Rafflesia flower – gratitude 

7.) Remis – natural wealth

8.) Rejang lebong -symolizes natural wealth

9.) Durian – patience

10.) Floral teratai – environment

11.) Butterfly – perfection

12.) Rembulan – God’s creation

There are 5  basic types of motifs that are found in Batik Besurek. They are as follows:

1.) Calligraphy motif

 

This motif is taken from calligraphic letters, some are in form of decorations similar to Arabic letters with no clear meanings, while some have inscribed Arabic letters in zoomorphic script that can be read and have cultural, moral and religious messages. 

The calligraphic motifs served as a symbolic affirmation of faith. 

Function and symbol 

Used in traditional ceremonies as headbands

This motif is dominated by colour Blue. 

2.) Rafflesia flower

 

Rafflesia Arnoldi is the rarest and largest flower species in the world and it is found in the mountain regions of Bengkulu province. 

This motif forms the main motif of the Besurek cloth after calligraphy. 

Function and symbol

It is used in Baby shaving ceremony . It symbolises gratitude. 

3.) Moon motif ( Besurek Rembulan) 

 

This motif is a combination of Arabic calligraphy and the full moon ( Rembulan) motifs. 

This batik illustrates praise of God, who created this wonderful universe. 

Function:

It is usually worn by bride and groom in a bathing ceremony before the wedding. 

Colour is dominated by Red. 

4.) Niche Niche ( Relung Paku)

 

This motif describes the state of plants and animals. It is often used for traditional baby shower ceremonies. 

Colour is dominated by Red

 

5.) Bird Motif ( The Kuau bird motif)

Kuau Bird resembles a Phoenix bird from China, it has elements from Hindu-Buddhist culture. 

This motif is used for traditional events, in a series of wedding ceremonies used by prospective brides or a grave pilgrimage. 

Photo credit : 

Colour : Blue , Brown, Red

                  Kaganga Motif 

Photo credit : harnas. com

 Batik is a typical Batik from Rejang region, Bengkulu. 

This batik was created around 1985-1990.

If Batik Bengkulu combines Arabic calligraphy motifs, then Kaganga Batik takes inspiration from the Kaganga letters, the ancient script of Rejang tribe. 

This fabric illustrates plant motif such as Clove flowers, Malay Magnolia (Cempaka flowers) and the rare Rafflesia Arnoldi flowers typical of Bengkulu province. 

                 Colours 

Bengkulu Batik is dominated by bright colours because this province is located in a coastal area. 

Blue, black and red colours were most commonly used in this type of batik before 19th century. 

Black and Blue was used to cover bodies and closed coffin, while Red, Brown and Yellow have been traditionally used for ceremonial purposes for brides ,weddings and certain official functions in the past. 

         Museum collections.

                        Indonesia 

There are several Museums in Indonesia that store and display various types of Batik cloth that are hundreds of years old.

Danar Hadi Museum, Indonesia

Photo credit : Sanjayatour. com

Museum Batik Keraton, Yogyakarta, Pekalongan, Museum Batik Danar Hadi, Museum Tekstil Jakarta, Bengkulu Museum, National Museum of Jakarta.

Photo credit: National Museum of Jakarta. 

Museum collection around the world. 

Many famous Museums around the world also have Batik pieces on display, especially Batik Besurek or Calligraphy batiks. 

Calligrahy Batiks are seen as talismans and are believed to bring protection to the wearer.  

1.)   Islamic Arts Museum, Malaysia

The Islamic arts Museum, Malaysia  also has a dedicated shop housing a wide variety of souvners which tourist can take with them reminding them of their trip to the Museum.

The IAMM ‘s publication named, The Message and the Monsoon (2005) has Batik Besurek print from it’s collection as a front cover. 

In fact Islamic Arts Museum, Malaysia has one of the largest collection of vintage Batik Besurek to it’s credit outside Indonesia .

  2.)  British Museum , London

Picture credit: British Museum

Indigo dyed cotton covered with small Arabic phrase Bismillah (In the name of God) , 4 central Square stylised Ottoman tughra or( royal signature) replicated 4 times. Also replicated on 4 sides is the legendary bifurcated sword of Imam Ali Dhu’l-faqaar 

Head cloths like this were worn  by Muslim clan chiefs and lineage heads in Western Sumatra.

 3.)Asian Art Department, Australia

Photo credit : Asian Art Department

Large calligraphic batiks known as  Kerudung or shroud, function as covers for coffins during funerary rituals. 

4.) National Gallery of Australia . 

Photo credit :National Gallery of Australia

19th century ceremonial drape or shroud cloth for bier. 

5.) Asian Art Museum, San Francisco

 

Online websites and Auction Houses. 

Old Batik Besurek is now very rare to find and is also highly expensive as such they can be found in a handful of high -end auction houses and online websites. 

1.) Michael Backman

Authentic Batik Bengkulu is rare and hard to find nowdays  as such they are sold by a handful of 

The star motif in each of the four corners have 8 points (the central star has just six) in Java octagonal star enclosing a ninth point is associated with the 9 saints, who introduced Islam in Java, Indonesia. 

The artist name in Arabic or Jawi is written in the bottom right hand corner of the cloth. 

2.) Christie’s

This batik comes from South Sumatra. Phrases like Muhammad Rasulullah or ‘ Muhammad is the Messenger of Allah ‘and la ilaha illallah Muhammaddar Rasullullah or there is no God but Allah and Muhammad is His Messenger. 

Such priceless batik pieces sell at exorbitant prices between EUR 1,000 – 1,500

3.) 1stdibs.com

This is a picture of Tengkolok(Head dress) from Kelantan area. It could also be used as a book cover.

4.) Rug rabbit 

Made in Sumatra, Bengkulu c 1940

Coffin cover or hanging. Hand drawn zoomorphic calligraphy in bird form, with small flowers scattered over the ground representing bintang ( stars) shining in the sky of the sacred design. 

Pithecanthropusbali. com

 Besides these, E-bay , Minangkabau Antique,Wovensouls.com, Dharamawangsa.com  etc are some online stores selling these vintage textiles at sky rocketing prices. 

Private collections 

Photo credit :Abudervish.blogspot. com

Abu dervish has in his collection a Square batik cloth made of cotton dyed in blue with Arabic script. It can be used as a headcloth, a ceremonial hanging or a wrapper for Quran.

 

Interestingly it has four Ottoman tughras around a central flower like pattern which has been identified as the signature of Sultan Abdul Hamid 2 . 

 Photo credit : Researchgate. com

Written Batik in praise of Prophet Muhammad in Arabic script dated 19th century. It is in the collection of Husain Hatuwe, Ambon 

          Governor Suprapto

In the past the Besurek or Bengkulu Batik cloth was only used for official occasions worn only by respected people or royalty. 

But since 1983 , by the efforts of Governor Suprapto,  batik Besurek can be worn by anyone. He was the longest serving  Governor of Bengkulu province from (1978-1989). 

He made it mandatory for civil servants to wear Batik compulsory during working days in order to promote the art of Bengkulu batik. 

Besides him ,Governor Razia Yahya  was also instrumental in making Batik Besurek available to common man. 

       Bengkulu Batik Revival 

The development of Besurek batik in Bengkulu province has been rapid and it has received attention from the local community and the government.

It’s use is no longer limited to just traditional ceremonies but has been used for various other activities.

Along with times, modern Besurek batik has been adapted and richly decorated with Arabic letters without the meaning of the holy verse, so that it could be used for daily events.

The government in it’s effort to revive the dying arts of Bengkulu batik has made uniform compulsory for students from elementary to high school . 

Bengkulu Batik is also used as clothing mandatory for civil servants in the Bengkulu province since 1990.

             Besurek Batik Day

18th November has become the official day of Besurek Batik. This date coincides with the birthday of Bengkulu province. 

The local government has been keen to introduce Batik Besurek is keen to introduce on National as well as International level through participation in festivals and expo exhibitions. 

                Craftsmen

Craftswoman Ibu Ali Sumaiti with her creation. 

Photo credit : Bengkulu News

Ibu Ali Sumiati and Doni Roesmandi are two Besurek Batik craftsmen who are considered as the pioneers of  batik  Besurek in Bengkulu city. 

Since 2000 Besurek batik has in the hands of reliable designers. 

Bank Indonesia has partnered with leading Indonesian fashion designer Samuel Wattimena to promote local Bengkulu Batik at national and international level. 

Photo credit : Antara Bengkulu

These efforts have been instrumental in making Bengkulu batik revival , ranging from fashion for women and men, to bags, wallets, prayer mats,household appliances and face masks post Covid all wrapped in Besurek designs. 

Ties, badges, skullcaps  accessories for jewelry, tissue cases, souvenir, traditional home carving ornaments ,bloster and pillowcases,all are beautifully decorated with Batik Besurek designs  which are aesthetically pleasing to the eyes. 

         Besurek Batik Carnival

Photo credit : Pinterest

Carnival Batik Nusantara is an annual event held in the city of Bengkulu. It was started in 2014 and is one of the series of activities held in order to commemorate the Day of Batik Besurek which falls on November 19th

 The event is aimed to promote tourism of Bengkulu and batik from Bengkulu.

Photo credit : APS news

Various bazaar, fashion shows,competitions and stalls selling local handicrafts especially batik Besurek is organised which has the school children , young and old participating in Bengkulu.

Photo credit : APS news

Carnival Batik Nusantra is a brand concept of the government of Bengkulu to boost up the economy for artisans and to promote the ancient handicraft in the country as well as outside.

          Where to buy Batik Besurek

Any tourist visiting Bengkulu province should visit Anggut and Penurunan in Bengkulu city shopping area.

 Canting Emas Batik House is a sales centre established by the government to exhibit and sell authentic local batik crafts.

Batik Besurek Asuji and Batik Besurek Atiq gives employment to traditional Batik Besurek craftsmen as well as tailors thereby sustaining the traditional handicraft of the region.

Photo credit : realitpost. com

Kumango Style is a textile shop which provides the ancient textile heritage of Batik Besurek in modern and contemporary combination.

Photo credit : Bengkulu ekpress. com

Besides this Bengkulu Besurek Batik Gallery is also located on Jalan Soekarno.

Photo credit : tempo.com

Many fashion houses and designers have  used calligraphy batik in their collection. This gives the handicraft it’s much needed exposure to a certain extent.

Photo credit: luxina. id

Online websites too sell Bengkulu batik to urban population at competitive prices. 

Conclusion :

Batik as our cultural  heritage needs to be explored in all forms , promoted and preserved in it’s authentic way because the past is our future, since the past is a place of learning and is a stepping stone for future. 

Till the last puff :Malabar Huqqa

Photo credit : prints.online.com

Introduction:

Huqqa ,a prominent piece of Oriental culture has been much loved in the Indian Sub- continent, Middle East and South Asia for generations.

It was invented at the beginning of the 17th century either in Iran or India. The use of huqqa became very popular during the Mughal rule in India.

Photo credit: Wikimedia

The jade huqqa of Mughal Emperor Jahangir, which is kept in the National Museum at Delhi ( India) .

Huqqa is a water pipe stemmed instrument for heating or vaporising , then smoking either tobacco or flavoured tobacco. The smoke is passed through a water basin often made of variety of materials including brass, bronze, jade , glass and ceramic. 

Word:

The word Huqqa is known by several names in different countries like in Iran it is known as Qalyan, In Turkey it is called Shisha ,In India it is popularly known as Huqqa and in the Arabian Peninsula it is called Nargileh.

Picture credit : Hookah.com

The word huqqa is Hindustani word of Arabic origin derived from huqqa or casket, bottle or water pipe.

The Persian word nargil , which in turn comes from the Sanskrit word Narikela meaning Coconut , suggests that early hookahs were made from coconut shells.

Photo credit: Victoria and Albert Museum(UK)

Shisha is derieved from the Turkish word Sise  meaning glass bottle.

In the African countries of Kenya and South Africa , USA and Canada it is popularly known as Shisha.

Malabar :

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Malabar region refers to the South -West Coast of the Indian Sub continent. The coast runs from the South of Goa to Kanyakumari on India’s Southern tip.

Koyilandy :

Koyilandy also spelled (Quilandi /Quilandy )is a small fishing town situated  on the West Coast of India,in Kerala’s Calicut District of the Malabar region.

Photo credit : Kerala Tourism

It is famous for it’s unique handicraft, a huqqa named Koyilandy Huqqa or simply Malabar Huqqa.

               Malabar Huqqa

A special Coppersmith community specialises in making these Malabar huqqas. They are called Mooshari. They have been traditional smiths who practice the profession of melting and creating materials and utensils into bronze and brass.

The mud crucible, which is used to heat the metal is called moosha, therefore the artisans go by the name of Moosharis.

They belong to the Vishvakarma community.

Later on the work of making these elegant pipes was taken over by the Thiyya caste in Kerala.

Photo credit : Bidspirit. com

Materials required :

Making the Koyilandy Huqqa is a long process, since it is completely hand made. It is usually made of either Brass or Bronze.

Raw materials required in making this Huqqa include :

Wax to create patterns, Wood for the stem, Coconut shells to hold water, two varieties of Clay and a combination of Metals to produce the Bronze.

How it is made:

These parts are made by different craftsmen.

1.) The wooden cylindrical tube on which the tobacco bowl rests is made of Coconut tree wood by craftsmen who work on wood. The Coconut tree wood has a distinct grain and can be easily identified.

Photo credit : Pinterest

Sometimes the wooden stem is plated  with metal with a design cut out of it to show the wood underneath. Such patterns give depth to the huqqa and make it look breathtakingly beautiful.

 Photo credit : Instappraisal. com

2.) Paraffin wax along with natural pine resin is used into making this huqqa. Wax moulds ensures that the design stays in place.

3.) Soil used in this craft is brought from paddy fields, which is smooth and finer than any soil. It is further refined with cow dung and clay.

Photo credit : Rinsha, Koyilandy (India)

Three (3) different stages with a different quality of mud is used in the process.

4.) After the mud cover pieces are dried,  the molten metal is poured into moulds for heating and then taken out of the furnace to cool it down.

Then the clay residue is rubbed off the casted pieces of metal .

5.) Later paper bitumen is used to block the openings, this ensures that there is no air and water leaks in the hookah.

In short, the original shape of the huqqa is given by preparing wax moulds, liquid metal is poured in clay containers in which the wax melts and the actual design remains.

Detachable Huqqa Parts :

Koyilandy Huqqa is made up of 5 units or parts. The 1.)base of the huqqa is called ( Irippu) it holds the 2.)body known as( thondu)a 3.) wooden stem (thandu) which connects to the body of the 4.)holder (thattu) which holds the tobacco for burning, 5.) pipe is the final fitting of the huqqa.

Photo credit : The saleroom. com

These units or parts later are assembled together and air sealed from inside by using bitumen. 

Photo credit : Worthpoint. com

These Huqqa parts can be detached and assembled when in use and they help in easy maintenance and cleaning of the huqqa, this also ensures  compact packaging while shipping.

Sizes and prices:

Photo credit : Tyndis Heritage

The average Malabar huqqa takes almost a week to prepare.

There are usually  3/4 types of sizes which are available in Koyilandy Huqqa.

Various Sizes range from 12 inches to 24 inches and are sold at a price range of Rs.5,000 to Rs.13,000. The prices depend upon the intricacy of the design and the materials used.

Motifs used :

The Koyilandy huqqas are ornately designed with delicate patterns like fish, peacock, palm trees, birds, which is inspired from the natural flora and fauna of the region.

Photo credit : Instappraisal. com

Photo credit :Bidspirit.com

While crescent, jambiya ( yemeni knife), flags, foilage and flower motifs are painstakingly engraved and enamelled on the exterior of the huqqa making it look more exquisite and elegant.

Photo credit : E Bay. uk

Photo credit : Reddit. com

Coconut shells:

Photo credit : Invaluable.com

One unique feature of this oval shaped ,huqqa is that the interior chamber ,(the water chamber) is made by joining two Coconut shells together with paper bitumen,the holes in the coconut shell ensure the smooth flow of air both inside and outside the huqqa and keeps the water clean and cool from the inside.

Coconut shell has been traditonally used to purify and clean water in ancient times and is easily found in abundance in the coastal region of Koyilandy.

The Yemen connection:

Photo credit: Booh.com

The story of Koyilandy Huqqa, is connected with the ancient trade history, between the India and Arabian peninsula.

It is a unique handicraft born out of exchange of ideas and represents the diversity of culture and it’s impact on crafts.

This craft owes it’s origin to a group of Yemeni merchants who had taken up residence at Koyilandy about 500 years ago. They commissioned the local craftsmen to make Huqqa, (an object of oriental culture).

Made by local craftsmen, the huqqa impressed the Yemeni merchants and soon it came to be known as Koyilandy Huqqa.

Uptil 1960, Koyilandy Huqqa was exclusively made for Yemen, but soon hundreds of local making centres cropped up in Koyilandy and began exporting to the entire Arabian Peninsula especially Saudi Arabia and Yemen.

Photo credit : Pinterest

These huqqa’s famously adorn most Yemeni homes, especially the Mafraj  the top most room, in which men gather around to discuss their work and relax.

Photo credit : Pinterest

Hooked to the huqqa:

It is believed that the culture of having huqqa or shisha was started as a way to relax in the hot and arid climate of the Middle Eastern countries. Huqqa was considered as a great way to unwind  after a long day of work under the bright sun.

In the past, it binded people with conversations which included family, friends and business associates .

A unique aspect of oriental society which is gradually loosing it’s charm.

Photo credit : Pinterest

The image of men sitting and puffing smoke reminds me the words of a song from the movie Hum Dono ( 1961), where Dev Anand is gently conveying the message and singing, “har fikr ko dhuaen mein urata chala gaya.” translated as, “I kept on making every worry fly like smoke”.  The lyrics were written by Sahir Ludhiyanwi, music by Jaidev and sung by Mohd. Rafi. 

Although I don’t much agree with the smoking habit because of it’s harmful effects on our health.

The pictures reminded me of the words of that classical song of an era that conveyed the messages of the heart through prose and poetry. 

Postcards,Prints and Paintings:

                 Postcard

Photo credit : Hippostcard

Dated 1910 :A group of local Arab chiefs standing and seated, close to a huge nargile pipe. Aden ( Yemen)

                       Prints

Vintage illustration of smoking pipes, credit Duncan 1890

Photo credit : Getty images

Digital collection of New York Public Library:

Dated: 1888-1898

Social life and customs of Mecca ( Saudi Arabia) Christiaan Snouck (Author)

1854 engraving of narghile, huqqa

Photo credit : Alamy stock photo

                 Paintings

Feast for the eyes, these paintings bring back the nostalgia of olden times.

Photo credit :Pixels.com

Videos,Documentaries and Craft study.

Apart from these valuable vintage prints that offer an insight about the lifestyle of the past there are numerous videos about this handicraft  as well as two (2) documentaries that, capture the workmanship of the artists making Koyilandy huqqa .They give us a living peek into the craft and it’s craftsmen namely,

1.) Down to the last puff a story by V.Sasikumar, for the People’s Archive of Rural India and

2.) Crafts of India part 3 ( Koyilandy Huqqa) , an educational video created by CEC, United Grants Commission of India (UGC).

Easily available on You Tube, they offer valuable insights of what goes into making a Koyilandy huqqa.

A craft study done by , Akriti Jain and students of National Institute of Design (NID) in 2017 is available to view on issuu. com, it is also a very valuable resource for curators and researchers.

For Art Collectors :

For art collectors, the vintage  Koyilandy huqqa is available in antique shops in India ,as well as on prominent online websites like E- bay, Invaluable, Alibaba , Bidspirit, Worthpoint ,PicClick, Lot.art.com ,David Mayer Antiques etc fetching huge amount of money.

Photo credit: Bidspirit. com

Photo credit : Liveauctioneers. com

Photo credit : Bidspirit. com

Photo credit : Liveauctioneers. com

Photo credit : David Mayer Antiques.

Photo credit: Very important lot.com

Indian websites :

There are only a handful of websites in India selling this craft,( both new and old Malabar huqqa).

They include a website called Travancore, it sells newly made Malabar huqqa from Kerala.

Mport. in has a vintage huqqa on it’s website.

Photo credit : Mport. in

Indian shelf has two antique huqqa bases which they are selling online at a steep price, sadly  both the websites are not selling under Malabar huqqa name.

Photo credit : Indian shelf

My tryst with the brass beauty :

We were visiting a close family friends, who had newly constructed their house in the scenic, hill city of Dehradun in the Summer of 2019.

While trekking the long shady Rajput Road my friends and I stopped to have a cold Orange Slush, which we all had duly earned after a long long walk.

On the way back, my eyes chanced upon a quaint dusty shop, which displayed all the elements of the bygone era, lamps,tables, gramophones, crockery etc, amongst them a  tall slender ,very familiar looking thing was displayed….. the lower egg- shaped ,tear drop beauty revealed itself ‘Malabar Huqqa’, I jumped in excitement.

I couldn’t believe my eyes, the ever extinct Malabar Huqqa was on display on a hilly road of Dehradun.

The giant oval beauty was standing in all it’s former glory right before my eyes.

It crossed my mind the  amount of years and distance  it took to find a place in this small dusty shop ,where heritage lovers seeking beauty in vintage art would finally discover it and give it yet again a new lease of life.

The salesman revealed it was brought from Rampur (a former princely state of India ).  Upon close inspection it showed base ,which was densely packed and decorated with fish motifs on all the four sides , fish motif was one of  the State Symbol of the erstwhile Rampur State of British India.

Ironically, the close family friends I had visited in Dehradun, their youngest daughter, Vartika Sharma is getting married early next year. Insha Allah.

The young boy in question is Vishnu Nair who belongs to the coastal region of Cochin, ( also known as the Queen of the Arabian Sea)  of the Malabar region.

They both are extremely talented artists, Vartika is an illustrator and Vishnu is a graphic designer in a well known company in Gurgaon.

I wish them both happiness and health in life, May they both discover and seek beauty in life forever ,just like the cities and places they both belong to.

In Museum Collections:

Koyilandy huqqa or Malabar huqqa has earned it place in one the prestigious Museums of the world the British Museum. Though not on public display, it is available to view on it’s online portal.

Photo credit : British Museum

Museum of History of Azerbaijan.

Photo credit: Wikimedia

Huqqa belonging to the Erivan Khanate on display at the National Museum, Azerbaijan. 

Museum in Iran .

Photo credit :Wikimedia

Coconut shell huqqa base on display at a Museum in Iran.

Vechaar Utensils Museum : Ahmedabad        ( India)

Photo credit:thisbelongsinamuseum.com

Arrakal Museum : Kannur ,(Kerala) India

Photo credit : Google Photos

The Horniman Museum and Garden (United Kingdom) displays Malabar huqqa on it’s website.

Interestingly there is a Pipe Museum located in Amsterdam ,(Netherlands) .  They  have a wide variety of smoking pipes and utensils used in all parts of the world for the past 25 centuries on display.

Recycling the Huqqa :

In an age where recycling has become a vital necessity for saving our planet and preserving it for our future generations.

Precious arts and crafts too can be recycled and transformed into exquisite work of art.

For an imaginative, creative mind, art has no boundaries ,with a little bit of imagination exquisite vintage handicrafts  can be transformed into aesthetically pleasing Works of Art that serve to be both functional as well as suitable to the needs of our society. 

Lampshades :

The Koyilandy huqqa bases have been converted by individuals and online websites (who have turned the lower base ,in some cases the whole vintage 5 feet long huqqa) into exquisite bedside lamps, thereby enhancing the interiors of the room and giving them a rich, regal look.

Photo credit: egozi gallery

Such initiatives, not only honour the craft and the craftsmen but also help in promoting the craft heritage of our country.

Photo credit : The saleroom. com

Photo credit: Pinterest.es

Photo credit : Invaluable. com

Flower Vase :

Mr. Narayan Cheta along with his brother and cousin’s has been striving hard to sustain the craft started by their grandfather.

Realising the taboo associated with smoking they  have tried their hands on converting the Malabar Huqqa into beautiful Flower Vases. 

Photo credit : Akriti Jain for NID

Their small enterprise in Koyilandy ,works for  export houses dealing with Koyilandy huqqas as well as working independently modifying the art suitable for modern times.

Plight of the Craftsmen :

Photo credit : Bonhams

Although there is a huge demand for Malabar Huqqa as a souvenir abroad, sadly this craft is breathing it’s last breath in India.

The period between 1977 to 1990 saw a thriving , booming hookah business in Koyilandy, but the Gulf War in 1991 brought about the biggest blow and crippled this handicraft ,with the decline in export market, this industry is still struggling hard to sustain itself.

There are several factors which are held responsible in the decline of this unique handicraft and amongst them are the fluctuating dollar price, the high price of raw materials (which hasn’t been subsided by the government ), unprofitable artisanal work (because the middle men take better prices than the craftsmen) , has seriously given a heavy blow into keeping this handicraft afloat.

Photo credit : Rinsha, Koyilandy (India)

Since it is a hard, unprofitable work it fails to draw attention of younger generation who look to alternative means to earn money without having to work under difficult  and inhospitable conditions.

Photo credit : Rinsha, Koyilandy ( India)

Lack of awareness of this handicraft from the people and the lack of Government apathy has further contributed to the decline of this unique handicraft.

Cottage Industries and Export Houses.

Photo credit : Tyndis. com

Cottage Industry is a small business that is run from someone’s home, especially one that involves craft.

There are not more than 5/6 independent cottage industries which are working for export houses or retail purposes in and around Koyilandy.

Mr. Thahir Kunhammotty is the owner of one such cottage industry. He founded his company Capital Exports in 2001 . His company manufactures and exports brass artware and handicrafted huqqa’s to the Gulf region from Uralloor near Koyilandy.

He has a small in- house manufacturing unit in his residential premises.

Syed Abdul Khadir Bafaqui Thangal also runs an export business in Koyilandy.

Photo credit: UGC (Crafts of Kerala)

Such individual efforts are not only giving employment to the skilled artisans but is also helping in keeping the craft Heritage of our country alive.

Government initiatives:

Photo credit :latest laws. com

Koyilandy huqqa is yet to be given a GI tag that is Geographical Indication Tag, although the Geographical Indications Registry the official website of the Government of India names the Authorised User Details like :

1.) Shri. Ramdas Thykkandy

The Kozhikode District Handicraft Artisan Co operative Society Limited. Koyilandy

Phone :91 – 496 2620 72

2.) Shri. M. Srinivasan 

Malabar Huqqa Production.Koyilandy

3.) Shri K.M.Sankaran

Kairali Hukka Producer.Koyilandy

Crafts Village :

Sargaalaya,  the Arts and Crafts village was established in 2011 at Iringal ,near Koyilandy.

Photo credit : The Hindu

An initiative of the Department of Tourism, Government of Kerala,it was established to promote various ethnic crafts of the region. There are around 60 stalls promoting various handicrafts of Kerala.

Such initiatives help in sustaining the traditional craft practiced by generations and also help the people not to fall to cheaper knock offs which are now easily available in the market .

After effects of Corona :

The pandemic has badly affected the handicrafts sector especially non- essential luxury items which includes the Koyilandy huqqa.

This huqqa is an expensive item to make because of the materials , time  and craftsmen involved into making this handicraft.

Rinsha an associate working with Mr. Ramadas of the Kozhikode District Handicraft Artisan Cooperation informs me that there were 30 craftsmen working for them before the pandemic, now they are reduced to only 6.

They have only one size available and that is  16 “inches, priced at Rs. 5500 +GST + courier charges, it comes to total of around Rs. 7,000 price tag.

Earlier the product range included:

16 ” inches priced Rs. 5,500

18″ inches priced Rs. 9,000

20″ inches priced Rs. 11,000

22 “inches priced Rs. 13,000

She concluded by saying that the, “Municipal Corporation of Koyilandy, has the Malabar Huqqa as one of it’s symbol, yet there is no help whatsoever from the government. ”

Photo credit : Koyilandy Municipal Corporation  Facebook

The Black logo in the middle represents a palm tree in extreme left , a boat ,Kerala lamp in the middle ,football ,and Malabar huqqa on the extreme right. They form the symbol of the Koyilandy Municipality Corporation .

Conclusion :

Malabar huqqa once a thriving trade item of export from Kerala to West Asia is becoming rare to find anywhere, even in Koyilandy itself. Except for a few places it is becoming increasingly difficult to find an authentic piece of the exquisitely ornate Malabar Huqqa, one the last surviving object of Oriental  Culture ,in India.

Photo credit : Pinterest

It is considered as one of the last remaining symbols of Malabar’s once glorious Commercial ties with the Middle East. This trade brought about an exchange of ideas and thoughts that further enriched our culture. 

We can only wish and pray that this craft survives the hard times and lives to tell it’s tale.

Acknowledgement :

I would like to thank Mr. Jerry Abraham Vadakkel,( he was running a cafe that time) whom I contacted two years ago,a random call from a complete stranger ,yet he sincerely helped me to locate huqqa craftsmen and craft centres of Koyilandy.

This unexpected help made me realise that, all is not lost, we still have people who sincerely extend help no matter,who ,why and what we are and that is what we call, humanity.

Stands of Honour.(Rehal)

Introduction :

The first verse that descended on the Prophet Muhammad pbuh was Iqra meaning read.

Prophet Muhammad pbuh has urged mankind to seek knowledge and acquire it at all times, in short commanding them to, “seek knowledge from the cradle to the grave.”

The word knowledge or ilm is mentioned 854 times in the Noble Qu’ran,

Islam encourages and promotes the idea of learning, asking questions and striving to better oneself through acquiring knowledge.

Opening the door to read, write and reflect, it considers seeking knowledge to be source of life ,both to the body and the soul.

Pursuit of knowledge is a fundamental teaching of Islam as it is considered that, “knowledge is the root of all good whereas ignorance is the root of all evil”.

Libraries

Over centuries, Muslims established themselves as patrons of learning, establishing some of the biggest libraries of medieval times.

Libraries , (both public and private) provide quiet conducive environment to study .

Photo credit: Pinterest

Al Qarawiyyin Library, Fez (Morocco) is considered as one of the oldest libraries of the world, continually operating till today.

Photo credit :Abdel Hassouni Wikicommons

It was established by a Muslim Woman named Fatima al-Fahriya in 1359 AD. This library boasts 4,000 rare and precious books .

Photo credit : CNN

Bayt al- Hikma ( House of Wisdom) , Baghdad (Iraq)

Bayt al- Hikma (House of wisdom) is counted as one of the the first Public Library opened to the general public in Baghdad, between 9th to 13th century.

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Besides Muslim scholars, Hindus, Jews and Christian scholars were allowed to study, research and translate the ancient texts on different subjects to Arabic .

Private libraries belonged to royals and other higher officials of the court and were sometimes attached to the Madrasas or sacred places of learning.

Folio 129 from Khamsa (Quintet) of Nizami 1524-25

Photo credit : MET Museum, New York

Reading the sacred texts

All faiths have a rich history of texts, be they the word of God (revealed to the Prophets), oral stories passed down by generations and written down in books.

Keeping the holy book on a pedestal for reading has been a tradition followed by people for centuries.

People living in India, South Asia and Middle East have honoured their sacred literature and books like, Ramayana,Gita (Hindus) ,Japji Sahib ( Sikhs)and Quran (Muslims) by reciting them on foldable book stands for generations.

It is one of the basic etiquette of reading a book.

These book stands or rehal were created to facilitate in reading, respecting the sacred texts while sitting in the ground.

Word

In Sanskrit /Hindi the foldable book stand is called Pustak Pithika.

In Arabic language it is called Manzarah,

In Urdu it is known as Rehal, or simply, “that which is fit for travelling. ”

In English, it is called Book stand or Lectern

While in the Islamic world the humble book stand is known by different names, like Rehal or Qur’an Stand in the Indian sub- continent ,Kursi in some regions of Middle East,Miz in Azerbaijan,Laukh in Central Asia and Marufaa in the Swahili speaking regions.

Uses

Book holders are unique handmade products, they simplify reading procedure.They support book during a recitation and keep them at a level that does not harm the eye.

Used in the vicinity of private homes and religious institutions, book stand or Rehal is an X shaped foldable book rest, used for placing books during recitation or reading .

It was designed to collapse it into a flat form for portability and storage when not in use.

It was a comfortable device for reading in the past and an important element in interior design .

Materials Used

Meant to be used in Mosques, Mausoleums and private homes.

Photo credit : Pinterest

The book stands were beautiful works of art, carved from a single piece of wood, usually a very high quality wood , with geometric lattice decor in ivory and tortoise shell ,

Photo credit : Amir Mohtashemi

Other materials included marquetry work, precious metal inlays, exquisite stone inlay (jade), delicate paper machie work and even exquisitely carved from crystal glass.

Photo credits : Etsy, Sotheby’s , E-Bay , Pinterest

Aesthetically pleasing to the eye the book holders served dual purpose, they were beautiful on the outside while being immensely useful in reading and recitation of texts and sacred literature.

They were strong enough to hold thick and large books.

Photo credit: liveauctioneers. com

They were designed from being huge exquisitely ornate ones to being smaller in size based upon the requirements of the person and the organizations they were commissioned for.

Photo credit : Pinterest

Laukh : Miracle in Wood.

The book stand or Qu’ran stand in Central Asia is known as Laukh and Uzbekistan is considered to be the original birthplace of this simple, yet complex structure.

Laukh is a sliding /collapsible wood stand for books. It is specially used to keep the Holy Qur’an in Central Asia, especially Uzbekistan.

The complex structure of Laukh is made from a single piece of wood, without a single nail, or glue on joints.

Wood used is Walnut and Sycamore. The more old the tree, it is considered as a better quality wood which is used in making Laukh.

Skilled craftsmen can produce ten to twelve levels of laukh. On such a stand books can be placed, along with pencils, small scrolls, paper, notebooks, bookmarkers and other supplies for reading and writing beneath the various small compartments .

Making Laukh is considered as a masterpiece of Uzbek wood carving.

Uses of Book stands, (past and present)

In the ancient times the crucified folding Qur’an stand was made available to only a few in the society which included, clergy, teachers of the madrasa, students, judges (kazi),scribes official poets and certain high ranking officials and merchants.

Photo credit: Pinterest

Mosques

The folding lecterns of the book stand served throughout the Islamic world as supports for large Qu’ran books, used during recitation.

They were amongst the most valuable pieces of furniture in every mosque.

Many Mosques also had a provision of providing a Kursi, especially in Egypt on which a cantor recited the Holy Qu’ran.

A cantor kneels on the Kursi, in the Mosque of Sultan Barquq Cairo, Egypt.

Kursi is a heavy but moveable piece of furniture, often with a low platform on which the cantor kneels, facing the qibla wall, as he recites passages from the Holy Qu’ran.

Use today

It’s modern use is not limited to just a book stand for religious books but a book holder for all kinds of books like cook books ,hobby books etc and also as a phone and tablet holder .

Photo credit: Etsy

This cruciform folding structure, like a jigsaw puzzle ceases to amaze the limit of human imagination.

Photo credit: Etsy

The design of the book stand has been altered to keep pace with moving times, making them more compact and allowing the books to be kept neatly within them.

Photo credit: Flipkart

Easel book stands are also easily available along with book holder cum stand 🧍on major online websites like Amazon, Flipkart, Etsy etc .

Photo credit: Amazon

For those seeking beauty in vintage items of the past, major auction houses like Sotheby, Christie, Bonhams, 1st dibs etc display a wide variety of these exquisitely carved book stands on their websites from various parts of the world, these vintage items sell at exorbitant price.

“A real treasure for the seeker indeed ”.

Rehals in Architecture, (Past and present) .

Bibi Khanum Mosque, Samarkand

Bibi Khanum Mosque, was built on the orders of Timur in Samarkand, present day Uzbekistan. He employed architects from Shiraz (Iran) and Delhi (India) in building the mosque.

Built between 1399-1409, it was once considered as one of the Largest Mosque in the World.It is inscribed in UNESCO World Heritage List in 2001.

In the middle of this beautiful structure is a stone pedestal – a huge Koran stand ,crafted from ornate marble blocks.It stands originally from the time of Timur.

It is made from Mongolian marble donated by Ulugh baigh.

Once it held one metre square Osman Koran (7th century) treasure brought by Timurlane from one of his expeditions.

It was taken to St. Petersburg in 1875 and subsequently returned to Tashkent in 1924 by Vladimir Lenin and since has been kept in the Hast Imam Library, Tashkent .

The Gate of Mecca

The Gate of Mecca, Makkah Gate, Qur’an Gate or Bawwabat al -Qur’an is an arch gateway monument on the Jeddah -Makkah Highway.

It is the entrance to Mecca the birthplace of Prophet Muhammad.

It was built in 1979 ,designed by Dia Aziz Dia and architect Samir Elabd .

The main part is structure of Islamic Qur’an sitting on a rehal (book stand). Reinforced concrete was used as a primary building material and plastic, glass, wood etc has also been used in it’s construction.

Under the structure are palm trees, planted in line, along with lower trees and ornamental bushes.

Sides are flanked by beautiful tiny gardens with shaped fences, small parking lots and other auxiliary facilities extending into a big complex.

Rehals or Qu’ran stands in Museum collections around the world.

1.) MET ( Metropolitan Museum of Art)

Photo credit : MET Museum, New York

This Qu’ran holder, is made of high quality teak with three layers of superb carving combining vegetal motifs and calligraphic inscriptions. 1360 A.D.

Photo credit: Pinterest

On display at the Islamic gallery in the MET (Metropolitan Museum of Art) New York,

Place of origin : Iran
2.) Philadelphia Museum of Art, (USA)

Displayed in the Museum is an ornate bookstand with exquisite carved jaali patterns which are inspired from the Sidi Sayyid Mosque ,Ahmedabad ( India) . Late 19th – early 20th century.

Place of origin: India

3.) Museum of Islamic Art at the Pergamon Museum,Berlin (Germany)

Photo credit : Pinterest

The beautiful carved laced wooden Qu’ran stand is dated 13th century A.D. and is made from Walnut wood.

Made in the province of Konya,(Turkey) it has an Arabic inscription, which says, “the power lies in God”, written in knotted Kufic script, while the ,’Throne verse ‘,is found framed and written in thuluth script on the borders.

Photo credit : Museum with no frontiers

One special feature of this stand is the presence of signature placed on the hinges, which identifies the work of the carver, Abd al -wahid bin Sulaiman.

Place of origin : Turkey

4.)The State Museum of the History of Religions, St. Petersburg (Russia)

5.)Turkish and Islamic Museum, Istanbul (Turkey)

6.)Islamic Art Museum, Kuala Lampur, (Malaysia)

7.) Louvre Museum, Paris ( France)

8.) Salarjung Museum, Hyderabad (India)

The collection of jade in the Salar Jung Museum is both vast and varied.

Photo credit: Pinterest

This book stand in White Jade is inscribed with the name of it’s owner,”Shamsuddin lltutmish”, king of Delhi Sultanate dated 1209-10 Hijra. It is the earliest specimen of Islamic jade, not only in India but in the whole world.

9.) The David Collection, Copenhagen (Denmark)

Photo credit:davidmus.dk

This miniature Koran stand is executed in precious stones and carved from a single piece of Jade split into two sheets.

It is decorated with vegetal ornamentation and exquisite inlay with rubies and other semi precious stones.

Place of origin : India ( Mughal dynasty)

10.) Doris Duke Center of Islamic Art , Hawaii (USA)

11.) Sulaimania Library , Taj ul Masajid Bhopal (India)

Photo credit: Lemonics. com

The Taj ul-Masajid or (Crown of Mosques) Bhopal ( India) is one of the largest mosques in India , it also has a library and a small museum within it’s vicinity.

The exquisitly carved crystal glass book stand or rehal is on display at the Museum, along with other precious items and objects.

12.) Art Institute of Chicago, (USA)

Photo credit : Pinterest

These Qu’ran stands are called Marufaa in Swahili language.

From simple to exceedingly ornate designs, these Qu’ran stands are made from two pieces of wood which are hinged together, into an X shaped cradle.

Conclusion :

Books have played a tremendous role in shaping our history ,religion and culture, as such anything associated with books is considered highly respected, honoured and prized.

As Hazrat Ali ( First Shia Imam) says,

Photo credit : Pinterest

Dedication

Although it came late, but I dedicate this piece of writing in the loving memory of my late father, Syed Mushtaq Hussain Naqvi.

Born on 2nd October, 1934 in Lucknow. He would have been 86 years old today.

The image of him always engaged in reading and writing has been deeply embedded in my heart, not knowing that one day I would tread along on his path.

An accomplished Professor of English Literature, prolific Writer,Author and Poet (both in English and Urdu language),he has around Eleven (11) published books (English ,Urdu ) to his credit.His Urdu publications which includes books on poetry,biography and travelogue has been uploaded on Rekhta website for reading online.
His world was all about seeking knowledge and sharing it with friends and family,

He always sought the company of great Urdu poets like Firaq ‘Gorakhpuri’, Khumar ‘Barabanki’, Waqif ‘Raebareli’, Qamar sahab, Sardar ‘Panchchi ‘ (Sardar Karnail Singh) etc and organised various events and cultural programs under Firaq Memorial Trust which he founded after the death of his mentor and colleague legendary Urdu poet Raghupati Sahai, ‘Firaq Gorakhpuri.’

After his retirement, he also worked with late Dr. Maulana Kalbe Sadiq Sahab in establishing Unity Public School , Lucknow and worked there for some time as an Administrator.

Later in life William Darlymple, (noted author and historian) interviewed him on Awadhi history. An entire chapter in his book, The Age of Kali ( 1998) quotes my father…. a life well lived.

Books were his best friends and he truly cherished their company.

I will be eternally grateful to him for making whatever little worth I am today.For giving me his passion and inspiring me to discover and seek the thresholds of knowledge.

Safar e Ishq : The walk of love (Arbaeen)

Introduction :

The tragedy of Karbala has moved mankind for the past 14 centuries.The suffering that Imam Hussain and his family underwent is beyond human imagination. 

 Countless amount of tears and tributes cannot do justice to the unbelievable amount of pain and humiliation that he and his family had to endure. 

It is a tragedy that repeats itself all over the world, every year and is a victory in the hearts of all those who are weak, oppressed and lonely .

A lesson in History that has inspired Millions. 

Word

The word Arbaeen in Arabic language means forty and in Islamic history marks the 40 th day of mourning period following Ashura. 

Arbaeen Walk

During the time of Saddam’s rule in Iraq, holding Majlis (lamentations) and  observing Arbaeen walk was illegal and banned.  Since the fall of Saddam’s dictatorship, this walk has been resumed in strength by people who come from all walks of life. 

Arbaeen walk is widely recognised as one of the single largest annual Peaceful Walk in the World.

It is one of the most important ceremonies in the Shi’ite Muslim calendar. 

The spiritual walk streches from Najaf to Karbala with a distance of 85 kilometers which is covered in 3/4 days depending upon the individual. 

Some people start their walk from as far as the city of Basra in Southern Iraq nearly 500 km away from the holy city of Karbala,

These people cross difficult paths, dangerous terrain, not to mention the threat from terrorist organizations like Daesh and ISIS.

If that is not enough pilgrims from the neighbouring country of Iran too cross borders to walk towards Karbala. 

British photographer Jonny Pickup who documented Arbaeen in October 2019 , observes, “The movement of millions towards a small city in central Iraq to mourn a man who died almost 1,400 years ago”.

Largest Pilgrimage on Earth:

Since it is the climax of the 40 day mourning period from the day of Ashura, Arbaeen is also one of the largest Pilgrimage gatherings on Earth, in which upto 25 million people go to the city of Karbala in Central Iraq.

Why the walk? 

1.) There are certain narrations from the Holy Imam’s to pay homage to the shrine of Imam Hussain in Karbala and it is not obligatory. 

People walk to the Holy shrine to pay homage out of love and respect. 

2.) It is believed that the caravan of the holy household reached Karbala, after they were released from the prisons of the tyrant Yazid on the day of Chehlum or Arbaeen. 

3.) People pay allegiance to Imam Hussain by chanting Labbaik Ya Hussain, or Here I am O’Master Hussain, in response to  Awaaz e Isteghasa of Imam Hussain on the day of Ashura,when he lost everyone from his sons,nephews and companions ,he stood alone and thirsty , and cried out

“Hal Min Nasir Yansurna? ”Or “Is there any anyone to help me”.

4.) Walking gives us chance for self reflection, and walking on a spiritual journey would have additional benefits. 

5.)  Every believer  yearns to be in Karbala, especially during Ashura and Arbaeen ,and this Walk by the Millions demonstrates the prophecy of Prophet Muhammad pbuh . come true who had said, 

 

Safar E Ishq : Walk of love

Arbaeen walk is also  known as Safar e Ishq or Walk of love. 

Millions of people come from different parts of the world, who belong to different castes, communities, colours, religions and sects walk together towards the holy city of Karbala.

You don’t have to be a Shia, let alone a Muslim to love Imam Hussain and his principles. This walk belongs to everyone who sees himself as a champion of truth, justice and freedom. 

There is no discrimination made between rich or poor, young or old, men, women, disabled ,blind and sick ,scholars and illiterate all walk in Unison despite the threats from various terrorist organizations like the Daesh, ISIS etc.

Most of them choose to wear black coloured clothes,carry black banners  since black is considered as,the sign of mourning. 

Unity in diversity. 

The beauty of this walk is that it brings humanity under one roof, a melting pot of citizens of different countries who speak different languages, have certain etiquette, behaviours and thinking all come together.

Arbaeen is actually a living example to see humanity alive and breathing. It is a great platform to meet others and exchange ideas. 

It’s educating yourself more than any book you read. 

Services

All the services provided to these pilgrims are free of cost including security, food and shelter.

Pilgrims are required only to bring set of clothes with them and travel light. All the other basic needs are taken care of during the walk. 

It is considered a high honour to serve the Guest’s  of  Imam Hussain a. s. 

Medical care:

Medical shops/ camps , with doctors and nurses on duty are available round the clock to provide medical aid to people who need medical help. 

Ambulances are stationed ready to be used in case of a medical emergency. 

Rest and massage:

Some people choose to walk barefoot, in remembrance for the suffering of the honourable ladies and children of Imam Hussain’s family (the prisoners of Karbala),who were meted the most inhumane torture.

The provision of rest and massages is also given to the varied pilgrims along the way for body aches and blisters, which is given by team of volunteers who include people from diverse backgrounds such as soldiers, scholars and ordinary citizens.

They volunteer to provide their services to aching soles and bodies during the walk. 

Maukibs and poles :

All along the route, there are several Maukibs or temporary tents for visitors to rest.

Pilgrims are provided comfortable bedding, warm blankets and even mobile bathrooms for quick shower. Laundry service is also provided to them. 

Area between Najaf and Karbala is marked by poles. There are around 1452 poles. 

Food and Water :

Food ,water and tea is distributed along the way by both children and adults.

There is no UN agency, or NGO’s who feed the millions walking this spiritual path, rather it is the local farmers and ordinary citizens who save throughout the year from their earnings to serve the pilgrims of Imam Hussain a. s. 

It is only recently that donations have come from various charities and organisations, yet the main bulk of hospitality is taken over by the ordinary citizens of Iraq. 

Tea is served along with Iraqi biscuits called Chokar to the pilgrims all along the path by children and adults.

Hussaniya :

Some Maukibs also have a Hussaniya,( a hall for holding  Majlis and lamentations) .Provision for prayers is also given there. 

They also provide services like a platform for religious questions to be answered and matters of jurisdiction.

Other essential needs:

Other services provided to the pilgrims are people  catering to repair broken bags, wheelchairs, prams, phones etc.

Phone charging kiosks along the way help people to recharge their phones. 

Shoe polishing and repairing is readily available by volunteers . 

Tissue papers are distributed by little children on the road for travellers who need to clean themselves

These little ones also perfume the travellers on the walk and distribute water in case someone feels thirsty on the way.

All these services are provided to the visiting pilgrims by people who have never seen them in their lives, and who are complete strangers.

Yet it is their love for Imam Hussain that brings them all together. 

UNESCO :Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. 

The hospitality and services provided during this period has won World Heritage status and has been recognised in UNESCO’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity on 12 December 2019

It was approved by 900 scholars from 153 countries in meeting held in Colombia .

Arbaeen Records:

Over the years the March of the Millions has established itself as one of the, 

1.) Largest annual gathering in the world with more than 20 million people participating in the walk from across the globe .

2.)Biggest peaceful walk in the world with people of different backgrounds,religions and faith  from different countries walk in unison towards the holy city of Karbala.

 3.) Largest continuous dining table with different types of food available about 500km stretch long. 

 4.) Largest number of people fed for free with more than 20 million people served free.

5.) Maximum number of free medical camps in the world .

6.) Maximum numbers of volunteers from different ethnic backgrounds and countries.

7.) )Longest travel on foot, every age group is part of this walk from 80 km to 500km and more.

These are staggering figures for an economy that has been broken down and crippled by two wars and so called, “global war on terrorism ”.Yet the spirit of the people of Iraq is seen to be believed. 

Movement against terrorism

Amongst the countless lessons that the tragedy of Karbala  gives us is not to bow ourselves, to corruption , ruthless dictators, rulers , governments and terrorism. 

Karbala teaches us to speak truth to the power and give voice to the voiceless. 

As Guru Nanak ji ( the founder of Sikhism) says, 

Majlis . 

The forty days of mourning is filled with people who organise Majlis or (lamentations) in their homes or either in Imambadas or (halls for holding lamentations) where people get together to remember and pay tributes to the Martyrs of Karbala.

Tributes are recited in the form of elegies and dirges. 

A lecture is delivered, in simple words( a lesson in moral science) , a little part in the end is devoted to the narration on the tragedy of Karbala,where people cry and lament  because to, “cry for the oppressed is to speak against the oppression”.

Various processions are organised during this period in the villages and cities.

Role of Media :

Despite being even larger than Hajj, the most important Muslim gathering, Arbaeen pilgrimage remains largely unknown to the World.

Major Media outlets have a lot on their hand for not bringing out the true picture,  the Arbaeen story has not being given it’s due importance. 

Thanks to social media, people have become their own voice, bringing their personal experiences on  much wider platforms .

Personal vlogs and documentaries have tried to shed light on this unique march ,bringing in people’s perspective much clear with their unbiased reporting. 

Drew Binsky  (American travel blogger) episode on his trip to Karbala ,Iraq is a must watch for all those looking to know more about Iraqi hospitality beyond religious boundaries.

Champion of Human Rights :

 

Arbaeen in the year 2023 has been special for the fact that Nelson’s Mandela grandson Mandla Mandela from  South Africa and Mahatma Gandhi’s grandson Tusshar Gandhi from India ,both together visited the Holy shrine of Imam Hussain a.s. in Karbala Iraq .

Both their grandfathers were champions of human rights and fought for freedom in their respective countries and gained it through non -violence .

 

Tweet from Tushar Gandhi ,Arbaeen 2023 

It was a beautiful way of honouring the legacies of both their grandfathers who found inspiration in the tragedy of Karbala and the message of Imam Hussain a.s.

 

Conclusion :

Arbaeen is the movement of Imam Hussain against oppression and tyranny.

Every land is Karbala, every day is Ashura

This expression implies that we should always stand against oppression and injustice even if our lives are at stake and we are subjected to suffering. 

His flag gives shelter to all those who believe in a free, truthful and harmonious world, where human dignity has value . 

Dedication:

I consider myself as a very small humble servant of Imam Hussain.

The tragedy of Karbala has inspired me in the most difficult parts of my life. 

Although this is not the  subject I usually write on, but I truly  believe that the message of Imam Hussain and his mission has to be told, especially in this day and age where  humanity is at it’s lowest ebb. 

 And every Muharram I do get an opportunity to serve  him, with the most efficient  tool of understanding that is  ,writing and as they say….. 

Aqeedat ke rang (Part 2)

For the love of Hussain .   

( The Christian Narrative)

Introduction:

In a world full of chaos and hatred, where every day news headlines flash distressing scenes of people fleeing their homes as in the recent Afghanistan crisis or bombs ,rockets , machine guns targetting young and old ,killing them in dozens .

The weak , poor and minority communities across the globe bullied, harassed and tortured.

Freedom of expression is a privilege for only a few. 

Hatred sees nobody, no caste,no colour,no religion. It is a never ending cycle .

That is why it is important to remind ourselves of lessons in history, where great people have sacrificed their lives for the sake of saving human dignity and values. 

Imam Hussain and his great sacrifice is much more needed to be remembered  in today’s society . He stands as a symbol of freedom,truth and justice for millions, as the one who stood up against injustice and gave up his blood to save Islam from the irreparable destruction , which was already under the corrupt ruler Yazid.

 His fight for truth and justice in the burning plains of Karbala in his own words echo through the sands of time.

My article explores the role of Christians in the tragedy of Karbala and beyond…. 

Sacred Texts 

Christianity and Islam are the two largest religions of the world . 

For Muslims,Christians are Ahlul kitab or People of the Book. The holy books of Abrahamic faiths are God’s guidelines for Nations. 

The holy book of Christians is the Bible and for Muslims is the Holy Quran. 

The Bible records a great number of Prophets and Messengers .There are many verses in the Bible mentioning the name of the Prophet of Islam and his pure progeny (12 Imams), and the events that took place after him such the event of Karbala . 

The original language of the Bible is Aramaic, which is also considered as the route of Arabic and Hebrew

New Testament Peshitta (the Aramaic Bible) mentions Imam Hussain a. s.(hasin) by names in a few places. Luke 11:21-22, Matthew 3:11 and Acts 2:7.

Photo credit:University of Bonn, Germany

The Psalm Chapter 19 talks about a man from Hashemite moving towards Kufa.

Jeremiah 46 :10 

This verse of the,Old Testament points towards the Tragedy of Karbala according to some sources.

Surah Maryam 

Surah Maryam 19:1 

3rd/4th century  Hijrah, University of Cambridge Library. 

The Holy Quran has one whole chapter or Surah dedicated to the mother of Jesus Christ, Mary called Surah Maryam it is the 19th chapter with 98 verses or ayats. 

Mary is the only woman mentioned by name in the Quran . 

Reading and reciting Surah Maryam has lots of benefits which includes achieving pregnancy,it is read during pregnancy and is considered highly beneficial during childbirth . 

Islam reveres both Jesus or Isa in Arabic and his mother .He is one of the 5 elite Messengers of God. 

If there are similarities , Islam and Christianity also have differences amongst them on certain issues. For now I would focus only on similarities. 

As the author Zeki Saritoprak ( author of Islam’s Jesus) rightly says, 

“By understanding who Jesus is in Islam Christians might find common ground with the Muslims. ”

Visit to Najaf ( Iraq ) 

Year 2021 started with a positive note with the historic meeting of Pope Francis 84 ( head of the world’s1. 2 billion Roman Catholics) and Grand Ayatollah Ali al Sistani 90  ( spiritual leader of Shia Muslims ) in the holy city of Najaf (Iraq).

Both the leaders called out for peace and stability in the World ,promoting defence of the weakest and the most persecuted.

This visit brings a ray of hope in the already chaotic state of affairs in the world today.

All it surely needs are leaders who promote peace and security rather than hate and threat.

Peaceful co-existence is what our society needs today. It is the key to human success. 

The Key of Peace

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem is one the holiest site in Christendom. 

It is believed to be a place where Jesus was crucified and buried . 

The keys to the holy site lays in the hands of a Muslim family( Al Husseni). 

Adeeb Joudeh (member of Al Husseni family) believe’s that, “what we pass to the next generation is not only the key, but also to respect other religions. ”

The charge of opening and closing the Church door for the faithful every day is done by another Muslim family the Nusaybeh. 

Wajeh Nusaybeh and his forefathers have honoured this tradition by closing and opening the Church every single day for the last 1,000 years . 

Picture credit : Wikipedia

These arrangements were done in the past to avoid clashes among rival Christian sects for control over the Church. 

They act as a Symbol Of Peace for  forces which seek nothing but hatred ,a Beautiful Model of Co-existence. 

The Power of Truth

As I’m pondering over what to write, I cannot but mention a very deep personal story that I’ve witnessed over the years. 

Sir William Mark Tully (Bureau Chief of BBC in India) and his partner Gillian Wright (writer and translator) have been very close  friends with my eldest Uncle Saeed Naqvi, that bond grew even stronger over the years with their annual trips to our family home in Mustafabad (a small qasba in the heart of Uttar Pradesh) during the month of Muharram.

Photo credit : Lila Foundation

Gillian would eventually end up learning Marsiya from my grandmother( Ammajaan) , who was considered the best  Marsia Khwan or ( reciter of Marsiya) of Mir Anees of her generation.

Gillian would be given the pulpit on the Ninth  (9) of Muharram at the family majlis, where she recited the Marsiya of Mir Anees with utmost passion and perfection. 

This tradition continued even after the death of Ammajaan for some years till the pandemic struck and changed our lives forever.

With a stroke of luck I met her recently at Delhi’s historic garden ( Sunder Nursery), where she expressed her desire to visit Mustafabad next year for Muharram , “Insha Allah (God willing) ”,she said. 

Hope her words come true and we all meet together and pay our tributes to the Martyrs of Karbala. 

I’m sure that with the little discomfort that Mark and Gillian would have encountered during those trips, it was the message of truth and love for Imam Hussain that has pulled them over the years to come over to Mustafabad and honour his sacrifice.

Martyrs of Karbala (The chosen ones) 

Photo credit:FARS news agency

Not many are aware that amongst the 72 brave men who fought alongside Imam Hussain and stood for truth and justice and laid down their lives in the Battle of Karbala 680 AD were two Christian men Wahab ibn Kalbi and Jawi bin Huwai (Nubian Christian) 

Wahab ibn Kalbi

Wahab ibn Kalbi was a known businessman of Kufa. He was his mother’s only son. The young man was married only two months before the Battle of Karbala. He belonged to Al Kalb tribe majority of whom were adherents of Christianity at that time. 

Wahab was a Christian by birth but converted to Islam . 

Being impressed by Imam Hussain’s personality Wahab and his family embraced Islam and went to Karbala. 

The light of guidance entered their hearts. 

On the day of Ashura his mother had a great role to play, before going to the battlefield his mother told him , “I would really be pleased when I see you dying while protecting the grandson of the Prophet.”

Finally, he satisfied his mother by his martyrdom . 

John bin Huwai

John bin Huwai was a Nubian Christian who fought alongside Imam Hussain a. s in the Battle of Karbala 680 AD.

John was a former slave of Abu Dharr al Ghaffari. He was an old man, with grey curly hair. Because of his profound knowledge and pleasant manners he was greatly respected by all. 

On the night of Ashura, Imam Hussain urged John to go away to seek his safety to which John replied,

“how is it fair that I benefit from your company and hospitality but abandon you in your hardship. ”

He died a martyr fighting for the right path. 

Masjid Al Nuqta , Allepo (Syria) 

Masjid Al Nuqta is a Mosque located on Mount Jawshan in Aleppo, Syria

The main feature of this mosque is a stone which is believed to be stained with Imam Hussain’s blood.

After the Battle of Karbala in 680 AD, all the women and children of the Holy household of Prophet Muhammad were taken captives and  taken to different cities before reaching Damascus (the way capital of Yazid) 

 According to one narration, they stopped near a monastery in the town of Allepo (Syria). 

A Chtistian Monk saw light emanating from the holy head of Imam Hussain a. s. and paid the soldiers to let him spend the night next to the head. 

The monk placed it on a stone, which was stained red from the blood of Imam Hussain a. s.

He spent the night talking to it ,and weeping . Next morning he returned back the holy head to the soldiers and professed Islam. 

The Allepo site was reportedly turned into a Mosque in the 10 th century. 

Arbaeen (Walk of the free) 

Arbaeen means forty in Arabic. In Islamic history it marks the end of the forty days of mourning period following Ashura.

Arbaeen walk is widely recognized as the single largest annual peaceful gathering in the world.

It is one of the most important ceremonies in the Shi’ite Muslim calendar.

The spritual walk stretches from Najaf to Karbala with a distance of 85 kms, which is covered in 3/4 days.

Millions of people come from different parts of the world,who belong to different castes, communities, colours, religions and sects walk together towards the holy city of Karbala .

There is no discrimination made between rich or poor, young, old, men, women, disabled all walk in Unison  despite threats from  various terrorist organizations like Daesh, ISIS etc .

All the services provided  to these pilgrims are free of cost including, food and shelter.

British photographer Jonny Pickup documented Arbaeen in October 2019 , he observes it as a, “movement of millions towards a small city in Central Iraq to mourn a man who died almost 1,400 years ago. ”

It is one of the largest pilgrimage on Earth, in which up to 25 million people walk towards the city of Karbala, (Iraq) to pay homage in the Holy Shrine of Imam Hussain a. s

This walk is also known as Safar e  Ishq or walk of love . 

All along the way the pilgrims experience love, affection, warmth and hospitality from the people of Iraq who welcome the Guests of Imam Hussain a.s. whole heartedly and open their hearts and homes for them.

 

The tradition is an immense display of charity and hospitality by the people who volunteer to offer their services during this period. 

 

UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. 

The Services and hospitality provided during this period has won Arbaeen World Heritage Status in UNESCO’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity on 12th December 2019.

It was approved by 900 scholars from 153 countries in a meeting held in Colombia.

Guest’s of the Shrine . 

Every year during Ashura or( 10th day of Muharram) and Arbaeen (40th day after Ashura)the Holy Shrine of Imam Hussain a. s plays host to a number of Christian scholars, monks ,priests, pastors, dignitaries, ambassadors etc who visit the holy city  Karbala as a Mark of Respect to the Supreme Sacrifice of Imam Hussain a. s.

They come from various parts of Iraq and various other countries like Georgia, Ukraine, France ,America,Spain,Romania etc

 

Spanish Ambassador ( Juan Jose Escobar) visiting the holy shrine of Karbala 2019

Photo credit : ABNA news agency

As guests of the Holy Shrine, they are honoured and warmly welcomed by the people and the administration. 

Arch Bishop of Georgia in the Holy Shrine in Karbala Arbaeen, 2018 

Some of them have also have participated in Arbaeen walk like the Arch Bishop of the State of Georgia, Dr. Malkhas Songulashvili in 2018.

Their experiences truly make them Ambassadors of Peace when they go back to their respective countries and meet their people. 

 In the Ocean of Knowledge. 

Hobson and Jobson Dictionary

 

Hobson and Jobson is a historical dictionary of Anglo Indian words and terms from Indian language which came to use during the British rule in India. 

It was written by Sir Henry Yule and Arthur Coke Burnell and was published in 1886.

It documents the words and phrases that entered English from Arabic, Persian, Indian and Chinese sources and vice versa. 

The term Hobson Jobson is a corruption by British soldiers of word Ya Hasan Ya Hosain, which is repeatedly chanted by Shia Muslims as they mourn and beat their chests during Muharram. 

Yule wanted an Anglo Indian title for his dictionary that would attract attention and also  suggest dual authorship. 

With it’s delight in language,the 4,000 words dictionary has fascinated a generation of writers from Rudyard Kipling to Amitav Ghosh. 

 

Emily Garthwaite

Emily Garthwaite is an Award winning photo journalist  based in London,focusing on humanitarian and environmental issues. 

She was the first Non – Muslim Woman allowed to go on the roof of the Holy Shrine of Imam Hussain a. s. in 2018.

She documented her experience in video clips which went viral in no time and gained both ,”negative and positive response”, according to her. 

After her amazing experience during Arbaeen  where’s she received the warmth and hospitality of the people ,she has focused herself in documenting lives of Muslims especially women around the world and has directed her first documentary, 41 days in Iraq on Arbaeen (world’s largest annual pilgrimage). 

She aims to direct the world’s attention to the largest peaceful march on Earth which according to her hasn’t found the attention and recognition it truly deserves.

Father Christopher Paul Clohessy

Father Christopher Paul Clohessy is a South African born Catholic priest . He studied Islam and teaches Islam at the Vatican.

He has several written books on Ahlulbayt (Household of the Prophet) especially on Karbala published by Gorgias Press namely, 

1.) Angels Hastening:The Karbala Dream ,published in 2021

2.) Half  of my heart (The Narratives of Zaynab daughter of Ali) 

3.) Fatima, Daughter of Mohammed

 

                   Antoine Bara

Antoine Bara is a Lebanese Christian writer. A strong advocate of Imam Hussain’s mission of non violence, injustice and struggle .

Antoine Bara has written a book called ” Imam Hussain in Christian ideology. ”

This book has been translated in 17 languages and published more than 20 times. It has been approved for being used in the M.A.and Phd supplementary courses at 5 Universities.

Bara is a complete writer and a tasteful scholar who has written 15 other books in addition to the mentioned book in domains such as literature, novels and stories. 

Tributes to Imam Hussain a. s. by well known Christian scholars. 

Al Sahifat Al Sajjadia (Psalms of Islam) 

 

It is considered as oldest prayer manual in Islamic sources, written by Ali ibn Husyan Zayn al Abideen (the fourth Shia Imam)

Photo credit : Wikipedia

Known by many names as the Psalms of Islam, Sister of the Quran , Enjil Ahlul -bayt (Gospel of family of Muhammad) .

This book was written after the Battle of Karbala and is not merely a book of supplication but also a collection of Islamic knowledge and thought. 

Dr. William C. Chittick

Dr. Chittick is an American philosopher, writer, translator and interpretator of classical Islamic philosophical and mystical texts. He has published 30 books and numerous articles on Islamic knowledge and Sufism. 

Professor Chiitick has translated the classical text of Sahifat Al Sajjadia (Psalms of Islam) into fluent and elegant English.

It is Bilingual book with both Arabic and English translation side by side first published by Muhammadia publication in 1988.

It is an indisputable masterpiece of translation. 

Shades of Muharram in non mainstream Muslim socities. 

Hosay, (Indo Caribbean connection) 

Hosay , (originally from Husayn) is a West Indian commemoration observed on the tragedy of Karbala. 

It is observed in the islands of Trinidad, Jamaica, Suriname and Tobago. Here in the islands the traditional practice of mourning has been mixed with various Middle East, Africa, South Asia and Caribbean rituals.

 

Hosay is fundamentally a product of diaspora, absorbing local beliefs and practices. 

It was brought to the islands by Indian immigrants and  indentured labourers between 1845-1917 during the British rule. 

The first Hosay was observed in Trinidad in 1854.

 

Most popular procession is held in the towns of St. James, Curepe, Tunapune and Cedros.

Hosay lasts for ten days, in accordance with the Islamic calender. It is observed with prayers and fasting. 

On the last day the Tadjahs or Taziah (ornate replicas of Imam Hussain’s tomb) which are made of bamboo, paper, tinsel and glass are paraded on the streets.

Infront of the Tajdahs, two Moons are taken out, they are of crescent shapes, one is red in colour and the other in green.

The red one represents the blood because Imam Hussain was killed in the battlefield, while green represents poison because his elder brother Imam Hasan  was poisoned to death.

 

This procession is led by drummers or tassa who beat to the call of battle in ancient times.

to a Sea or water body, where they ceremonially sunk after prayers. 

 

Although Hosay is a religious event for Shias, all of Trinidad ‘s religious and ethnic communities participate in it and is accepted as part of their national culture, depicting an environment of mutual respect and tolerance. 

A book has been written on this unique mourning practice in the Caribbean.

Hosay Trinidad, (1998) is a documentary funded by the Smithsonian Institute. 

Together: Hosay in Trinidad and Tobago is another good documentary to watch about Hosay in the Caribbean. 

These two documentaries are easily available to watch on YouTube. 

This film was officially selected  in the Trinidad Tobago film festival in 2012.

Mount Tomorro, Albania

Albania is a small mountainous country which lies in South eastern Europe in the Balkan Peninsula.

Mount Tomorro, is considered one of the highest peak in Albania and one of Albania’s biggest water collecting areas.

It is also a Sacred Mountain for both Christians and Muslims of the Bektashi order (Sufi order in the Balkans.) 

Christians climb it in on Assumption Day August 15 to honour Virgin Mary while the Muslim Bektashi have their pilgrimage between 20 -25th August. They honour by walking upto the Mausoleum buit in memory of Abbas ibn Ali (the half – brother of Imam Hussain a. s) who was brutally killed by the evil soldiers of Yazid in the Battle of Karbala in 680 AD. 

Built in 1620  it has a small 12 sided shrine encircled by a stone wall on which the poet Naim Bey Frasheri (1846-1900) says , 

“Abbas Ali capture Tomorro/came down to us/Albania didn’t stay poor/so God wills it”.

 

Ahlulbayt TV

 

Photo credit:Pinterest

Ahlul bayt TV is the  first exclusive  English language Shia Islamic TV Channel launched in August 2009.

It has headquarters in London and serves UK, Ireland, US, East Africa, Australia. 

It is a non -profit religious channel highly popular amongst western born Muslim youths.

This channel caters to the need of both Muslims and non-Muslims and features prominent Muslim scholars and intellectuals on their shows. 

Some of their documentaries have been awarded.

In one of their programme Ambassadors of Faith historians,lecturers ,religious heads of different faiths like Swami Agnivesh, Dr.Joshua Ralston ( lecturer in Muslim Christian relations University of Edinburgh) , Michael Wood (English historian) etc have been interviewed about their opinion on the message of Karbala and Islam. 

This opens way for dialogue as Hanna Iskandar , (Academic professor and a Monk) rightly observes that, “Dialogue is one of the strongest factors to eliminate religious fanaticism. ”

Ahlulbayt TV aims to spread the message of Islam to Western secular world.

As Sayed Mahdi al Modarresi rightly said, “show the true, undistorted nature of Islam and Islamic civilization to the West ”.

Library at Karbala. 

Photo credit: Pinterest

Libraries have played an important role in spreading knowledge and awakening souls throughout history. 

Established in 1800 the library of the Holy Shrine of Imam Hussain a. s. at Karbala is one of the oldest in the province. 

It holds extremely important historic, rare manuscripts and books . 

There are 120,000 books on different subjects and 70,000 books in various languages. 

A vault in the library contains precious gifts received from princes and kings in the form of books, manuscripts written on parchment and ancient tablets. 

In keeping pace with changing times the Imam Hussain Public Library has more than 26 million books available in different languages and on various subjects like Medicine,Physics,Chemistry ,Agriculture etc in it’s Digital platform. 

It recieves countless visitors and researchers from a lot of countries like Saudi Arabia, Yemen, Kuwait and other foreign countries.The library supplies the researchers with free books on CD.

The library contains over 50 mobile bookshelves which have books arranged according to numbers in addition to a study hall for readers.

All these resources available at the Public Library of Imam Hussain Shrine in Karbala are provided free of cost to the public.

Cultural Event of the Holy Shrine in Paris (France) 

Photo credit : Imam Hussain. org

Organised in 2017 in the Iraqi Embassy at Paris  ‘Karbala City of Holiness and History ‘. A photo exhibition and documentary film about  Karbala was the Holy Shrine’s first ever Cultural Event  in a European country. 

Having attendance of prominent public, official and diplomatic figures it was aimed at bridge the gap and create awareness of the heritage of Iraq in the West. 

The Habit and the Hijab 

One topic that is deeply controversial but very close to my heart is Hijab, the head covering used by Muslim women to cover their hair. 

There are different types of hijab worn by women in Islamic countries, under different names, yet they serve one common purpose and that is to dress modestly. 

The word, ‘hijab’ means to cover, curtain, seperation  in other words, anything that hides,and protects something.

The Holy Quran invites both Men and Women to dress modestly.

A habit is an acquired mode of behaviour, in oldest sense however habit means clothing (Merriam Webster Dictationary) 

Nuns typically wear a religious habit or clothing which consist of long robes or tunic, plus a headpiece to cover the hair, known as a veil. Veil symbolizes modesty and obedience to God.

Nuns have been instrumental is establishing and running prestigious schools across India, like Convent of Jesus and Mary, Sacred Heart Schools etc.

They have played a highly important role in the field of Education . 

It is not only Islam and Christianity that requires women to cover their heads and dress 👗modestly, but women from other faiths too are required to cover their heads when in a religious gathering or before entering a place of worship. 

Photo credit :Pinterest

During my visit to the Shrine of Imam Reza ( 8th Shia Imam) in the winter of 2015,I was randomly selected to be interviewed by one of the volunteer (a Phd. Student ) for the Holy Shrine’s  International Magazine. 

Amongst the variety of questions I was asked, I remember the last question and answer very clearly…… 

She asked me, “What according to you is the meaning of hijab? ”,to which I replied, ” All the senses given to us by Allah has a hijab (or veil) , not to hear anything bad or talk bad about anything etc, covering it is just symbolic.If you are not clean from inside, the outside has no value for Allah. ”

At the end of the conversation before I returned back, I received a beautiful gift from the Holy Shrine, that adorns a sacred space in my home and something I’m very proud of. 

 Aristotle says,” virtues are good habits”, we acquire interior virtue by exterior actions. The external forms the internal. 

I have personally seen marriage proposals rejected of highly qualified girls from well to do families just because she chose to wear something, that doesn’t fit into the so called, “demands of a modern society”.

This is just one incident, women wearing hijab undergo verbal taunts , ugly looks and even physical assault, all this requires nerves of steel, a lot of faith ,courage and patience. Almost like the phrase,”survival of the fittest”.

Wearing a hijab doesn’t hinder personal growth.In fact most women feel liberated and empowered by wearing it. It’s their identity. 

There are women who wear hijabs and are well qualified doctor’s, engineers, teachers, scholars, athletes and even super models walking at par with the times, yet proud of their choices. 

World Hijab Day 

Nazma Khan (a Bangladeshi immigrant to the United States ) founded the World Hijab Day on 1st February 2013,in the city of New York  

She founded it after facing years of shaming over wearing a headscarf. 

It’s purpose is to encourage woman of all religion and background to wear and experience the hijab and to break the prejudice that comes with hijab. 

As a free citizen of this world we should learn to respect and honour independent choices of fellow human beings . 

Wearing a hijab or not is a personal choice, which should be respected by all.

I shall end it one phrase that I ‘ve heard and most often repeated from the pulpit during Majlis .

God has given us intellect to make choices, right or wrong

In the end it all depends on US. 

Conclusion

My article has been a very small step towards recognising and honouring all those who have found the right message, the true face of Islam.The one that propagates peace and love. Even though my writing could not cover the gems in this vast ocean of knowledge, it is my sincere tribute to them all.

“Insaan ko bedaar to hoe lene do har qaum pukaregi humare hein Hussain. ”

These powerful words of tribute from Josh Malihabadi (the famous Urdu poet) ,comes alive whenever I wonder about the extent in which Imam Hussain’s message and his sacrifice has captivated the hearts and minds of generations of people (regardless of their faith and belief) breaking the exterior chains of bondage and dwelling deep inside their hearts for ever….. 

Dedication

To my dearest ,Bhabhi Mami (Mrs.Aruna Naqvi nee Nathanial ) who embraced us all with the values she was brought up in, of love, compassion and humanity.

I’ve always admired her way of extending help to those in need (morally and emotionally), supporting the weak and oppressed members of the society .

An inspiration for me in every sphere of life. 

For my dearest friend, sister and confidante Celine Xavier , I shall always be grateful to God for having you in my life, for someone who has always guided me when I feel lost. 

The Huqq

         

Huqq in Arabic is associated with Truth or Right. This word has been mentioned 287 times in the Holy Quran in Seven (7) different forms. 

Surah Al Haqqah (the reality) is the 69th Surah of the Holy Quran and evolves around many concepts of Al Haqq (the truth). 

99 Names of Allah 

One of the 99 names associated with Allah is Al Haqq( The Absolute Truth, the Reality) .It has come in 9 occasion in the Quran.

 

Well there’s another huqq , which is box associated with a traditional Sudanese   marriage ceremony.

                           Jirtik 

The Jeretik or Jirtik ritual is one of 7 Sudanese wedding rituals. 

This one has the groom and the bride dressed in traditional Sudanese attire. 

Red coloured clothes, lots of gold jewellery and henna patterns on hands and feet of the couple form part of a Jirtik ceremony. 

 

Photo credit: Pinterest

In a traditional Sudanese wedding, the Bride and the Groom are being anointed with scented oils and powders before the day of the wedding.  

The Jirtik ceremony is performed by the elder female relatives, who bless the newly weds with powdered scents and oils which is said to contain spiritual properties. 

                         Huqq

                      (Red Box) 

Photo credit :Pinterest

The wooden huqq is ever present in Northern Sudanese weddings. It is usually included in the bridal trousseau .

It is used to contain cosmetics, oils and incense to clean and scent the skin. 

In short ,a cosmetic container, with a domed lid with mushroom shaped top. It is decorated on the outside ,painted in red, black and mustard colours.

Various samples of cosmetics stored inside huqq includes a paper bag containing powdered henna, a small lump of solid charred incense.

It is particularly associated with the storage of delkah which retains it’s soft pliability when the lid of the huqq is tightly shut. 

Perfume , oil-infused pastes and powders or jirtik perfumes are all stored in the wooden huqq jar. 

Photo credit : Michael Freeman

Why this wooden red jar is called huqq ? My independent conclusion is that since marriage is a very sacred and important event in one’s life and this wooden jar plays an important role in the Sudanese marriage ceremony  hense the word huqq or the truth. A bitter truth indeed!! 

 

        Shahira Mehraz Apartment 



Photo credit :Pinterest

Beautiful antique huqq boxes are on display at the beautiful Shahira Mehraz Apartment in Cairo Egypt. 

This apartment has been one of residential projects designed by the famous Egyptian architect Hassan Fathy. 

 

             British Museum

Photo credit :British Museum

This wooden huqq is under the posession of British Museum. It is not on display but can be found on it’s website online. 

It is stained green inside and decorated on outside with bands painted in red, black and mustard. 

It was acquired in Omdurman (Sudan )1960 -61. 

 

               Sindoor Dani 

Our good old Sindoor Dani  seems to be like a distant cousin to the huqqs.

Sindoor 

Sindoor is a traditional vermellion ,red or orange red coloured cosmetic powder from the Indian Sub – continent usually worn by married women along the part of their hair. 

It is also known as Kumkum or Sinhora in Bhojpuri language. 

In Hindu culture, sindoor is a visual indication that a woman is married. It is found in every married women’s dressing table. 

Various forms of Sindoor is mentioned in Ayurveda. Traditionally it is made of turmeric, alum and lime. Red sandal powder, saffron etc are also used to make a Sindoor. 

Sindoor Dani

Box to store the Red Vermilion is known as a Sindoor Dani. A Sindoor Dani plays a significant role in a married women’s life and in Hindu weddings in general.

Photo credit : The Times of India 

Sindoor Dani can be made of wood which is coloured as well as in gold , silver and other metals. 

Below is an old Sindoor daani , modern versions are slightly different and more narrow at the top.

Two different continents ,countries and cultures,yet some similarities. These boxes in red hues are specifically used as cosmetic container by women. 

Red is an auspicious colour used for dressing a bride and in weddings in general in country like Sudan as well as in India. 

              Spice Box

These colourful Spice boxes from Afghanistan and Pakistan  too will have stories to tell.

Their origin is attributed to the Punjab region  but in  the border areas of Afghanistan and North Frontier district of Pakistan (especially the Swat valley) people use them as Spice box, and also to store sugar and other household items. 

In the picture below is an antique shop in Islamabad  (Pakistan) selling a wide variety of unique items especially the colourful Spice boxes.

Young owner Mr. Nasser proudly displaying his treasures, a striking contrast between the new and the old.

His Shop is called Afghan Quality

Address: Shop 14 ,Block 8 (Shaukat Plaza) , F-6 Islamabad (Pakistan)

Contact Number : + 923045760027

These exotic Spice boxes can also be found on various websites and online shops especially on EBay and Etsy.

They are a piece of history, so much loved and cherished by generations who loved aesthetics and beauty in their every day life. It’s a beautiful heirloom to own. 

Conclusion

In a quest to find something unique, I always end up discovering so much more, unity in diversity . Be it cultural traditions or handicrafts something somewhere seem organically connected and I feel delighted to put those missing dots in place. 

Special thanks

I would like to acknowledge a heart felt thank you to Mr. Mehmood Mehdi Abdi Sahab for taking time to critically analyse my article and give me an honest feedback. I’ve tried to do rectify certain parts of the article on his advice. 

I turned to his advice since he’s always been an encouraging force and always takes time to read my articles and give me necessary advice . 

Mrs. Anjum Pasha Aunty I owe your advice to write something on the Spice box. Thank you so much for your love and endearing support. I truly value them. 

Nowruz : A New beginning.

Introduction:

“Nowruz transcends national borders, religious divides and other differences to unite communities with bonds of goodwill. Such common purpose can help humanity rise to this moment in history. “

 Secretary General 

  Ban Ki -Moon

Nowruz marks the Spring Equinox  when Night and Day are of equal length. This is usually on 20th Or 21st March. It’s the day when Winter changes into Spring in the Northern Hemisphere and it feels like a new beginning. 

                 Origins 

The festival of Nowruz has Persian or Zoroastrian origins. 

Zoroastrianism is the world’s oldest known living religion and arguably the world’s first Monotheistic faith. 

An ancient festival ,Nowruz has been celebrated by diverse communities for over 3,000 years in West Asia, Central Asia, the Caucasus, Black Sea Basin, the Balkans and South Asia. 

                   Word

The word Nowruz is derived from two Persian words Nava meaning new and ruz meaning day. Nowruz literally means “New Day”.

               Vernal Equinox

The festival of Nowruz falls on the day of Vernal Equinox and marks the beginning of Spring in Northern Hemisphere. 

It marks the first day of the first month Farvardin of the Persian calendar. 

The moment the Sun crosses the celestial equator and equalizes night and day is calculated exactly year families gather together to observe the rituals.   

             Secular Holiday

Nowruz is secular holiday observed by various communities and religions. 

It is a holy day for Sufis, Ismailis, Alawites, Alevis and adherents of the Baha’i Faith.

It is a New Year for Parsis and Kashmiri Pundits .

Various sects of Muslims (both Shias and Sunnis) observe this day as religious as well as of cultural significance. 

The Jewish festival of Purim is probably adopted from the Persian New Year. 

                      Public Holiday

Nowruz is a Public Holiday observed by at least 9 (Nine) countries of the world including:

Iran 

Iraq

Azerbaijan

Turkmenistan 

Tajikistan

Uzbekistan

Afghanistan

Kazakhstan

Kyrgyzstan

It signifies the Spirit of Gratitude and Blessings and Hope for future for the people who observe it’s significance. 

It is a symbol of Rebirth, freshness, freedom and peace for Aryan ethnic groups such as Kurds, Persians, Afghans, Azeris, Tajiks and Balochs. 

                     Many Names 

Norooz, Nowrouz, Newroz, Nauryz, Novruz, Navruz, Nowruz etc are the many names associated with the Festival of Spring or simply Nowroz. 

               UNESCO

UN General Assembly in 2010,recognized the International Day of  Nowruz, describing it a Spring Festival of Persian origin which has been celebrate d for over 3,000years.

Nowruz was officially registered on the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. 

 

           Nowruz in India

                  Parsi  New Year

 

Navroz festival is said to have begun some 3000 years ago by the Parsis  or Zoroastrian who originally belonged to Persia now Iran. 

They follow Zoroastrian religion, founded by Prophet Zoroaster ,who was a spiritual leader in ancient Persia. 

In India, the Parsi community celebrates the Persian New Year Or Pateti especially  in cities like Mumbai and Gujarat where the community has a strong presence.

People decorate their houses and buy new clothes on the occasion of Navroz.

A visit to the Fire Temple, the place of worship of the Parsi community, is a ritual followed on Navroz . 

Special prayers are offered and once religious rituals are over they feast over various delicacies.

              Jamshed -i-Nowruz

 

It is believed that the Persian king Jamshed introduced the Parsi calender and as a way to honour him the day is also known as Jamshed-i-Nowruz. 

It is believed that Persepolis in Shiraz province was the seat of power of the Persian king .  

Under the Mughals, Nizams and Nawabs. 

The Mughal rulers in India gave much importance to Nowruz festivities, 19 days of celebrations were observed during their reign in the imperial courts of Delhi and Agra. 

The Qutub Shahi dynasty of Hyderabad celebrated Nowruz, and under the Nizams it was one of the four holidays where the Nizam would hold a Public Darbar. 

The Nawabs of Awadh and Bengal too celebrated Nowruz with much fanfare. 

Nouruz in Kashmir 

In the scenic valley of Kashmir ,the Kashmiri Pundits observe this day as Navreh , it is a harvest festival.

It takes place on the first day of the half on the month of Chaitra (March -April) of the Kashmiri Hindu Calendar. 

 

 

People visit each other with dry fruits. 

Considered as one of the most auspicious days, Navreh ,is one such festival where the ladies dress up in choicest clothes and traditional jewelry which includes a long string attached to the earings called the, “ Dijhor”.

             Nowruz in Islam 

                      Shia Islam

For the followers of Shia branch of Islam, Nowruz is associated with a lot of religious importance too. 

It is highly recommended to have ghusl, wear best clothes,fast and recite special prayers as recommended by Imam al Sadiq (as) the 6th Imam. 

Imam Musa al Kazim  (as) the 7th Imam too has emphasized great importance to celebrate Nowruz. 

A special prayer is recited 365 times on this day, it’s translation is given below:

” O One who changes the heart and visions! O One who directs the night and day! O One who changes situation and circumstances! Change our circumstances to the best of circumstances. ”

Important events that took place on the day of Nowruz according to Shia Islam are:

1.) Abraham broke the idols. 

2.) Prophet Muhammad held Ali(a s) on his shoulders to destroy the idols in the Kaaba. 

3.) Arch angel Gabriel appeared to the Prophet. 

4.) First Shia Imam Ali, assumed the office of Caliphate or simply Event of Ghadir took place that day. 

Many Shia Muslims from India and Pakistan who have Iranian ancestry observe these events by celebrating and doing Nazr of Imam Ali ( as) . 

                Ismaili community 

Ismaili  Muslims across the globe celebrate Nauroz with the recital of devotional poetry in the form of ginans, qasidas and manqabas.It is a religious festival for them 

Special prayers are organised in Jamatkhanas  where dried fruits, nuts and grains are distributed among Jamati members symbolising blessings of abundance and sustenance.

It observed as a Public holiday in Gilgit Baltistan (Pakistan), where there is significant amount of Ismaili population. 

 

      Nowruz with Ammajaan

Every year during Nowruz , my maternal grandmother Ammajaan would do Nazr with the Season’s fresh fruits and vegetables including Rasbhari( raspberry), Kela (banana),Kaseru, Lukat,Santara(orange) ,Kachri ,Kheera(cucumber) ,Hara-chana (green peas) etc and various delicacies laid out on a Green coloured Dastarkhwan.

She would pray for everyone’s health and happiness  from a book called Tohfatul Awaam,

Waqt e Tahweel

A Rose was kept in fresh water and at a particular time during prayers or (waqt e tahweel ) it would jumbish or move, according to her. That water was considered sacred and was sprinkled around the four corners of the house for wealth and prosperity. 

Naksh 

 

Ammajaan drew Naksh or patterns on a piece of paper with Saffron mixed with kewra water , our names would be lovingly written down by her with the Adad or numbers. 

Every time we met ,she would give it to me as a token of good luck. Her beautifully written Huroof e Adad ,which has my number name still hangs with pride in my home. 

                      Aab e Naisa

The water which rains under 23 days from the day of Nouruz is considered to have a lot of healing properties. It is called Aab e Naisa. 

Natural pearls that are formed in the depths of oceans are made from this water. Aab e Naisa that drops in the mouth of a seep or shell of  an oyester forms the precious and most beautiful pearl. 

 

                     

          Prelude to Nowruz

    Charshambe Suri or Festive Wednesday

                        Festival of fire

In Iran Charshambe Suri is celebrated on the event of the last Wednesday before Nowruz. 

It is celebrated in the evening by performing rituals such as jumping over bonfires and lighting off firecrackers and fireworks.

Jumping 7 times over fire is believed to burn the hardness of last year. 

In Azerbaijan, the preparation for Nowruz usually begins a month earlier.

According to Azeri tradition Chershanbe indicate the End of Winter and Start of Spring. 

During the month leading upto Nouruz, every Tuesday is devoted to celebrate nature’s Four Elements :

According to folk belief  the , 

 1.)  Su Chershanbe represents Water  

2.)  Odlu Chershanbe represents Fire

3.)  Yale Chershanbe represents Air

4.) Torpaq Chershanbe represents Earth 

The last Chershanbe or Akhir Chershanbe (last Tuesday)is considered an important day for people of Azerbaijan.

It represents time when leaves bud out and the Spring finally begins. 

 

             Khaneh Tekani

                       (Spring  cleaning) 

Khaneh Tekani or, simply cleaning house from top to bottom to renew and revive home for Nowruz festival. 

It is an important tradition followed in Iran, Azerbaijan and other Central Asian Republics .

The Spring cleaning is done before the start of Nowruz festivities.

             Growing Sabzeh 

Sabzeh or lentil sprouts are grown two weeks before Nowruz. Sabzeh is an important item on the Haft Seen table.

                      Spoon banging 

Spoon banging is a tradition observed on the occasion of Charshambe Suri. 

In Iran,  people wear disguises and go door to door banging spoons against plates and bowls and recieve packaged snacks.

In Azerbaijan  children slip around to their neighbour’s homes and apartments on the last Tuesday prior to Nowruz, knock at the doors and leave their caps or little baskets on the thresholds, hiding nearby to wait for candies, pastries and nuts. 

 No Charshanbe Suri is incomplete without fireworks. 

                     IRAN

Nowruz is considered the most important holiday in Iran. Nowruz holidays in Iran last 13 days . It marks the beginning of a New Solar Year and the arrival of Spring. 

Festivities in Iran take place over 12 days and usually involve the cleaning of homes, giving alms and visiting friends and relatives. 

Children receive gifts and small sum of money from grandparents, aunts , uncles and close relatives. 

           Haft – Seen Table

 

The Iranians celebrate the Nowruz festival by decorating Haft-Seen table.

They decorate the Haft-Seen table traditionally  with Seven things beginning with the letter Persian Seen Or S. 

A Special cloth called a Sofreh is first placed on the Haft – Seen Table. The Haft -Seen table represents Nature. 

By tradition Iranian families take great pains to decorate the Haft -Seen table as it represents the traditional values and also reflects the families aesthetic sense and good taste. 

1.) Sabze : wheat, barley  mung beans or lentil sprouts grown in a dish. (sign of newness) 

2.) Samanu : or sweet pudding made from wheat germ. (sign of blessing) 

3.) Senjed is Persian Olive : (symbol of rebirth and growth) 

4.) Sirke : Vinegar (symbol of age and patience) 

5.) Sib : Apple (symbol of beauty and kindness) 

6.) Seer : Garlic ( symbol of health and medicine) 

7.) Sumac :        (taste of life)

 

The Haft-Sin table may also include a mirror (symbol of self – reflection) ,candles ( symbol of enlightenment),painted eggs (symbol of fertility), goldfish (symbol of life ), coins or sekkeh ( symbol of wealth and prosperity) sonbol or hyacinth(symbol of spring) saat or time ,Narenj or Orange ( symbol of Earth floating in space) and traditional confectioneries. 

8

A Book of Wisdom like Quran, Bible, Avesta, the Shahnameh of Ferdowsi, or the Diwan of Hafiz may also be included. 

              Spring of 2019

 At the Haft Seen table with Shabnoor at left hand side and me at the right hand side. March 2019

Iran Culture House, New Delhi

In the Spring of 2019 , my family was invited by a very close friend and a beautiful soul sister Shabnoor to be part of Nowruz celebrations which was held in the Iran Cultural House, New Delhi. 

We spent the evening listening to a traditional Persian music from a group which came specially for the occasion from Iran , a short documentary on Iran tourism followed by a photo exhibition and home cooked Persian delicacies all made it a beautiful memorable evening to remember. 

Thanks to Shabnoor and her loving family the evening was well spent soaked in the glory of Persian arts and culture. 

      Visiting family and friends

During Nowruz holidays people are expected to make short visit to the homes of family, friends and neighbours. 

Typically ,young people will visit the elders first and the elders return their visit later. 

Visitors are offered tea and a variety of treats like pastries, cookies, dried fruits, nuts and other snacks. 

                Sizdah Be-dar

                                 (Nature’s Day) 

Thirteen outdoor also known as Ruz-e- Tabiy’at in Persian language. This festival is held annually on the 13th day of the first month of Persian calendar or Farvardin (Aries) . 

Nowruz holidays in Iran lasts 13 days and on the 13th day of the New Year, Iranians leave their houses to enjoy Nature and Picnic outdoor as part of the Sizdeh Be-dar ceremony.

People spend their time with fun activities on their picnic, with the youngsters playing outdoor sports and the elderly people playing mind games such as chess and backgammon ; while some prepare lunch. 

         

Sizdeh -Bedar Activities

The Haft-seen table remains in the family home for 13th day after the beginning of Nowruz ,during Sizdeh -bedar the greenery grown for the Haft -seen table is thrown away in running water or lake , symbolizing the return of plant to nature.

Tying the green leaves. 

It is customary for young single people, especially young girls to tie the leaves of the greenery before discarding it, expressing a wish to find a partner. 

Sizdeh -Bedar sygnifies the end of Nowruz celebration  in Iran,the next day children return to school and adults return back to their jobs. 

                   Lie of the Thirteen

                       (Dorugh -e-Sizdeh ) 

Another custom associated with Sizdeh Bedar is playing jokes and pranks, similar to April Fools Day, or simply Dorugh -e – Sizdeh. 

It is the Iranian version of prank playing April Fools Day. 

            Sizdeh Be-dar Food 

No specific meal is traditional of Sizdeh Be-dar, people usually pack readymade meals or prepare lunch during their picnic on barbeques, charcoal fires etc. 

However one traditional snack is never skipped and that is 

Kahoo (lettuce) and 

Sekanjabin (a tasty Iranian syrup of vinegar and honey) 

 

                    Chahardah Be-dar

It is the 14th day of Nowruz, which is celebrated only in Lorestan Province ,the Lurs stay home on the thirteenth day of Nowruz, referred to as the Strange 13 (Sizdah e Qarib) by them. 

Instead they picnic outdoors a day after Sizeh Be-dar. 

     Hajji Firuz and Amu Nowruz

             

                          Hajji Firuz

            ( The Man who used to protect Fire.) 

Hajji Firuz is a fictional folklore character who appears on the streets by the beginning of Nowruz. 

A black face, bright red clothes and a felt hat are his features .

There are different theories of his origin one of them is as follows,

Fire is an important element in Zoroastrian religion.There was a man who had to protect the fire in Fire temples.He used to preserve the fire all the winter. At the beginning of Spring,he left the fire temple to give the message of New Year’s arrival.

Haji Firuz plays tambourine, dances and demands gifts.

                      Amu Nowruz

                    (Uncle Nowruz) 

Amu Nowruz or simply Baba Nowruz is a legendary character originating in Iranian folklore. 

According to some historians he symbolizes Zal ,father of Rostem ( the hero of Shahnameh) . 

Amu Nowruz is characterised as an elderly silver haired man who puts a felt hat, has a walking stick and a long cloak of blue canvas. 

He is a wise man who passes the old story of Nowruz to the youth and gives gifts to them. 

According to folklore both Haji Firuz and Amu Nowruz appear together annually at the beginning of spring  to mark the beginning of Spring, Nowruz (Iranian New Year) .

         

        Novruz in Azerbaijan

                  (Novruz Bayrami) 

Novruz  is called ,”Novruz Bayrami ,” in Azerbaijan. 

Bayrami in Azeri language means Celebration or holiday.

Novruz Bayrami is a traditional holiday which celebrates the New Year and coming of Spring. In accordance to Labour Code passed in 2006,workers in Azerbaijan recieve 5 days off for Novruz. 

People believe that the weather of first day of Novruz indicates Spring. 

Second day Summer, third day Autumn and fourth day Winter. 

Last Post card

Photo credit : Mr. Elnur Babayev (Etsy)

This postcard is considered as one of the last Novruz greeting postcard in Azerbaijan before the fall of the Soviet Union . In perfect condition it was printed in 1991.

When Azerbaijan was part of Soviet Union Novruz celebration was generally unofficial or at times prohibited.

One day while browsing the Internet I chanced upon this postcard for sale on Etsy website. It’s content compelled me to write on this unique festival which is celebrated across Countries and Continents.

               Novruz Table

                   Khoncha  Tray 

Khoncha is a large silver or copper tray filled with various kinds of nuts, dried fruits, sweets,candles and other traditional items .

In Azerbaijan Khoncha tray must contain 7 items that start with letter S in Azeri language. These items symbolise elements seen in Nature. 

Apart from them

Sonbol ( hyacinth plant) 

Sekkeh coins representative of wealth

Aajeel dried nuts  berries and raisins 

Mirror for cleaniness and honesty 

Eggs for fertility

Bowl of water with goldfish sign of life

Rosewater for purity and 

Candles for enlightenment and happiness are also kept as part of the Novruz table.

             

                Pastries of Novruz 

Everyone gathers around the tables with every possible pastry delicacy made especially for Novruz festivities.

Each of the sweet baked Pastry for Novruz has a symbolic meaning and bear astronomical signs that pertain to the sky, Sun, Moon and the Stars. 

Paklava : 

Diamond shapes are meant to symbolize the layers of the sky. A hazelnut kernel placed in the centre of each piece represents the stars. 

Goghal : 

Round shaped crispy orange yellow coloured Goghal represent the Sun. 

Shekerpura : 

Half circle or cresent shaped Shekerbura represent the Moon.  

                      Dyed Eggs

No Khoncha tray is complete without the coloured dyed eggs placed next to the Samani.

Painted Eggs represents life, the revival of nature and Spring’s arrival. 

Hard boiled eggs are dyed and painted in charming colours and egg cracking competitions are held. 

Apart from these Sherbet, trays of different sweets ,dried fruits and are beautifully spread on the table. 

                 Mirror and Candles 

Wooden Cutlery of Udaygiri.

Photo credit : directcreate.com

              Introduction

My maternal grandmother Ammajaan had an eye for detail. For her the layout of table was just as important as the food itself. Every plate and cutlery had to be in proper place for food to look pleasant and inviting.

It was all part of Adab-e-dastarkhwan or Etiquette of eating. 

She was born and brought up in a society where aesthetics and etiquette both played an important role in the layout of food . 

I remember relishing lavishly spread delicacies and sumptuous meals organised by her at dinners and lunches where friends, family and relatives gathered together amidst fun and laughter. Those beautiful memories are deeply engrained in my heart forever. 

Food is an integral part of every region and community, it’s their identity. 

The preparation and presentation of food is a vital element as it showcases the regions culinary heritage and traditions. 

Spoons, laddles, bowls and trays all fall in one place to complete a meal garnished with love and care ,together with intricately fashioned cutlery which forms the right equipment to nourish. 

Wooden utensils alongside pottery has commonly been used through out India for cooking and serving of food. 

Andhra Pradesh located in the Southern part of India is famous for it’s uniquely designed Wooden Cutlery. It is made in Udaygiri town of Nellore district. 

                  Origin

The origin of this craft dates back to the 16th century during the reign of Quli Qutub Shahi Dynasty. This craft has been carefully passed down through generations over time. 

Earlier it was practiced by both Men and Women but slowly and gradually it was taken over by Women. They form the backbone in preserving this craft. 

                  Material

Photo credit: Itokri

The carvings are done on Wood  which is sourced locally from forests in and around Udaygiri. Wooden logs are collected from nearby Durgampalli hills at Udaygiri before being distributed for cutting and carving .

Various types of wood is used in making this cutlery which includes Nardi, Devadaru, Bikki, Chakka, Kaldi Chakka or Palabarki. 

The most commonly used wood is Nardi as it is very soft and easy to handle.

Small items like spoons, paper knives, key chains etc are made from Nardi and Bikki wood . 

Bigger spoons and forks are made out of harder wood called Kaldi.

The object is designed with the help of drill and finishing is achieved through files. Both handwork and machinework is used in making this handicraft by the artisans. 

                     Uses

Photo credit: Shoppingkart24.com

Made from pure wood, handmade wooden cutlery is an Eco-friendly solution compared to plastic. 

It is light weight and easy to maintain with regular wash. 

It enhances the cooking and dining experience. 

The wooden cutlery was commonly used to serve rice and curry. It’s an ideal way for cooking as well as serving of dishes.

                 Design 

These products have few famous unique designs which are named in their own language as AMINI, KAJUR, KANGURE, KHATURI and DARGAH KI JAALI.

Photo credit : chaibisket. com

These intricate geometric patterns and designs are the identity of this craft.

Left image: Amini pattern fork and spoon, Right image:Kajur pattern spoon

Photo credit: Itokri

There are more than 120 patterns of intricately carved design spoons and forks. 

The cutlery traces it’s influence to Persian motifs and forms and is mostly sold as gifts or as table decoration items. 

Geographical Indication Tag (GI)Tag

 Geographical Indication (G I) is a sign used on products that have specific geographical origin and possess qualities or reputation that are due to that origin. 

The Andhra Pradesh Handicrafts Development Corporation( APHDC) and Andhra Pradesh Technological Development and Promotion Centre (APTDC) have jointly put efforts for the tag for wooden cutlery of Udaygiri , thereby recognising the age old craft practiced by the local Muslim population as means of their livelihood.

This delicate craft was finally recognised by the government and was given GI tag in 2015.This is the second GI tag in Nellore district, after Venkatgiri saris in 2009.

Having a GI tag on products gives certain rights to the artisans to take action if anyone is found producing duplicate work. 

It is a biggest value addition in the international market and paves way for exports.

Role of Non-governmental Organization (NGOs) 

Artisans are not aware of the marketing techniques as such Non- government organization or NGO’s provide them information about exhibitions and give them opportunity to visit places and commercialize their crafts. 

Some NGO ‘s volunterly take the task of training the people and making them empowered with the skills to sustain their livelihood.

Dastkar a prominent NGO promotes dying Indian handicrafts by organising various workshops,exhibitions,handicraft fairs and craft bazaars . 

Such NGO ‘s are instrumental not only in empowering artisans and their families but also help in sustaining the craft too. 

Self – Help Groups (SHGs) 



Photo credit: Kalgudi. com

Various Self- help Groups have been formed in Udaygiri to empower the community. 

Self help Groups (SHG s) are informal association of people who choose to come together to find ways to improve their living conditions. It is usually composed of 10 to 20 local men and women between 18 to 40 years of age. 

Self help groups or ( SHGs ) and rural entrepreneurs in Andhra Pradesh have gone online with their products through Kalgudi. com

Every product has a story which is captured on the platform, which also includes the name of the self help groups, how old it is, and how many members are there in it. 

Some Self help groups selling the Udaygiri woodwork at Kalgudi.com are Sajida, Yasmeen, Faruk, Roshan and Shakeera Self-help group.

              Product range

Keeping pace with the requirements of modern society the artisans of Udaygiri have introduced various other items in wood apart from cutlery which include Salad bowls, Paper knives, Wooden pens, Hair clips, Paper weight,Photo frames, Lampshades, Keychains ,Table mats, Combs ,Pen stands, Rakhis and even Toys for children .

Crafts Bazaar,Chennai 2019

Photo credit:

This has created more marketable avenues for the artisans to display and sell their products in the various exhibitions and craft fairs organised throughout the country. 

Photo credit :Itokri

Wooden cutlery of Udaygiri has a product range according to the size and style of the product. The size of the cutlery varies from 4 inches to 15 inches.

The price of the product is based on the size and intricacy of pattern on the cutlery. 

                  Artisans

Photo credit : Twitter

The intricate carvings and fine proportions used in making wooden cutlery is made by a few Master Craftsmen of the Nellore region. 

Master craftsman Mr . Abdul Bashir has participated in various trade fairs and handicraft exhibitions and has been awarded with the State Award certificate by Andhra Pradesh Handicrafts Development Corporation Limited Or ( APHDCL) Lepakshi, for his craftsmanship and contribution to the development of wooden cutlery. 

Mr. Zakir Sheikh is one of the few craftsmen working for the revival of this craft. He is a fourth -generation artisan, his work and dedication won him a State Award in 2001.

There are now over 100 families involved in making this craft in Nellore district with the efforts of government , NGOs and local agencies. 

Modern innovations (NIFT) 

In the past  National Institute of Fashion Textile (NIFT) has conducted various workshops with the students and artisans , which was endeavored to give the craft of Udaygiri a new face without losing it’s original character. 

The students designed lamps, photo frames and wall clocks keeping the traditional motifs of the Udaygiri wood craft intact, and giving it a modern touch. 

Role of Indian organisations 

Lepakshi the official handicrafts organization of Andhra Pradesh, the Craft Council of Andhra Pradesh are some organizations that provides the artisans of Udaygiri to showcase their work and sell them. Lepakshi also retails Udaygiri cutlery online on it’s website. 

          Online websites

The introduction of online websites and E-commerce has helped in throwing light over the dying Indian handicrafts. It has acted like a bridge connecting urban with rural India.

Photo credit: Itokri

Gausia Begum’s wooden wonders can now be purchased at the click of a button through Itokri. com.This website works with various NGOs and handicrafts organizations to bring authentic Indian crafts to urban homes.

Other websites like Gaatha, Flipkart, Amazon, WorldArtCommunity, Shopping kart 24,Direct create ,etc are also creating awareness towards this craft and selling them online. 

               Conclusion

 With local artisans and creative organizations affected badly with the global pandemic , we can only hope and pray that this dying craft would rise back to it’s former glory and people would learn to appreciate the beauty of aesthetics in life once again. 

 

 

 

In Rainbow Wonderland:

“And among His signs is the creation of the heavens and  Earth , the difference of your languages and Colours. Verily, in that are indeed signs for men of sound knowledge. “Surah Al-Rum (verse 22) 

The Noble Quran addresses to the diversity of human race, to various colours, shades in rocks, plants, flowers, crops, fruits and animals . 

It also refers to the outer and inner traits of mankind. The colours of the Noble Quran carry symbolic, aesthetic and moral objective. 

Colours are a source of happiness and optimism.

Colour is a power which directly influences the soul ,generating positivity and hope.

 Coloured glass has been used by human beings to decorate their homes and palaces for a very long time. Colours have the ability to enliven a space and make it look aesthetically pleasing.

       Introduction

Glass is commonly seen as a symbol of fragility, vulnerability and brittleness. Glass symbolism is dual , on one hand it represents things that are fragile, but on the other hand it represents things that are protective and strong.

Glass is essentially made from Silica or sand,which melts at very high temperatures.

From 8th century onwards, Egypt,Syria,Iraq and Muslim Spain produced vast amounts of glassware which spread to various parts of the world through trade.

  Stained Glass

We all are familiar of seeing exquisite Stained glass work in Cathedrals and Churches.

Craftsmanship in it’s most refined form.

Rose window of Chartes Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.Photo credit : Pinterest

   

 Islamic Stained Glass 

The Art of Stained Glass in Europe is slightly different than Islamic Stained Glass. 

While European stained glass uses human imaginary  depicting the life of Jesus Christ, stories from Gospels and Apostles, Islamic stained glass is more Geometric and Vegetative in form.

Instead of Lead used in European stained glass ,strips of Wood are used in Islamic stained glass to bind the glass.

Sometimes gypsum or stucco filled with coloured glass was also used to decorate windows/doors in some places.

Bayt Al Suyhami , Cairo( Egypt) 

Photo credit: Pinterest

Whether it’s the Shebeke work of Azerbaijan ,Orosi of Iran or Turkish gypsum plaster windows all have more or less the same benefits useful for a healthy Body, Mind and Soul.

 

   Benefits of Coloured Glass

(1.) The coloured glass guarantee the light of the interior space, during the changing patterns of the day.

(2.) The colourful windows reduce the power of radiation and heat of the Sun. Blocking the harsh sunlight reduces the temperature of the interior spaces.

(3.) They give beauty and aesthetics to the buildings and their facade.

(4.)They block direct sunlight so that the delicate rugs don’t get ruined.

(5.) They protect the intimacy of private spaces.

(6.) The coloured glasses create colourful lights, preventing and disturbing insects from the outer space of the rooms.

The reflection at night keeps mosquito away. (It’s said they especially don’t come near green,red and blue)

(7.) These windows have health benefits too, the light that comes through the coloured glass is not only good for the skin ,but also prevents diseases like Alzheimer’s and depression.

(8.) From psychological point of view ,the various colours of the glass create colourful lights which have a positive effect on human emotions.

Studies prove that Colour therapy is instrumental in keeping our senses awake and happy .

(9.) Colour therapy also called Chromotherapy, is a method of treating ailments by using colours.It is a holistic treatment that brings balance and health to body,mind and soul.

Every colour has a different psychological impact on human behavior and senses like , Green colour helps to purify and cleanse. White and yellow colour light stimulates the lymphatic system.

The results of the therapy vary from person to person.

(10.) Many historical reasons for coloured windows is reminding of 5 fold prayer times. According to research , this type of window filters the light at different times and seasons and provides the desired light.

      Glass Art of Azerbaijan

                Shebeke

Azerbaijan has a tradition of making colourful glass windows and doors with a technique called , ‘Shebeke’.

The word Shebeke comes from Arabic meaning ,’web’. Basically Shebeke is a stone grill, but this term is used for the wooden grill.

Shebeke is a wooden lattice of pieces of coloured glass held together without glue or single nail .

This form of architecture appeared in Azerbaijan from the 9th to 12th centuries and still continues to be an intrensic part of Azeri identity.

   Photo credit: Marina Alin

            Burst of colours

The beauty of Shebeke depends on the refraction of sunlight on it’s glasses. These windows bring Colour and Life to buildings.

An average Shebeke mosaic consists of 5,000 wood and glass detail,10 to 15 steps are required to produce an average size Shebeke.

The beautiful intricate panels are made of small wood and glass pieces like a giant jigsaw puzzle.

             Materials Used

                  Coloured Glass 

Previously coloured glass from Venice was imported to Azerbaijan and was especially used in the Palace of the Sheki Khan (Sheki) .But nowadays coloured glass from Russia is being used.

                Walnut wood 

The little pieces of glass are inserted into a wooden lattice is usually made of Beech wood, Oak wood or Walnut wood. The older the tree, it is considered best for Shebeke work.

Walnut wood is a preferred choice in the preparation of Shebeke.

Walnut wood is elastic in nature and for it’s longevity, it is cooked, dried and cut into thin layers.

                    Skills

Shebeke art is one of the most demanding areas of folk art that requires special abilities.

Knowledge of Eastern architectural elements and a thorough study of Geometry, Mathematics and Drawing are necessary skills in order to learn and master this craft.

            Patience and precision

Shebeke requires high precision because the slightest mistake and the entire mosaic created can fall apart.

Shebeke artists need to be very patient and precise,as it’s a painstaking process and requires special skills.

This work demands both patience and precision.

Each lattice work frame is custom cut and pieced together. All are handmade like a giant puzzle , inshort both the wood and glass are organically intertwined.

                         Patterns

Graceful geometric pattern motifs are most common. Each piece is cut at least 12 (twelve) times and sometimes a small frame of Shebeke may take at least five to six months. It depends on the density of the ornament.

It is like light itself : fragile in appearance but robust and reliable in their everyday use.

Handover generation

Shebeke is a complex technique and known only to a few artisans who pass this meticulous craft from generation to generation.

It is an art that is considered complicated yet beautiful.

                 Examples

In the past this art was used to decorate palaces and mansions of the former rulers. Nowdays many restaurants,public places and even private houses in Azerbaijan are decorated with Shebeke work.

Some famous examples of Shabeke work can be found in the ancient cities of Sheki, Shusha, Ganja, Jameh Masjid (Ordubad) ,Khan Palace,(Nakhchivan) and Baku .

 Pearl of Azerbaijani Architecture

The Palace of Shaki Khans built in the 18th century in Sheki ( Azerbaijan) is a 2 storey  summer residence of Sheki Khans. 

It is also known as ,’Pearl of Azerbaijani Architecture’.

On 7th July 2019 it was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered a masterpiece of Shebeke craftmanship with at least 16 various patterns of Shebeke work decorated in different parts of the palace.

Palace of the Shaki Khan, Sheki (Azerbaijan) 

It is renowned for breathtaking ornate interior and exterior spaces. Large portion of the Palace facade is covered by Shebeke glass art.

Shah Abbas Mosque, Ganja (Azerbaijan) 

Photo credit:Pinterest

Martyrs Mosque ,Baku (Azerbaijan) 

Photo credit : Pinterest

           

       Azerbaijan Postage

Shebeke work is so integral part of Azeri identity that the government has issued stamps in honour of the work over the years. Some examples are here below :

Art of Shebeke now:  Master craftsmen

Contemporary Master craftsmen include, Ashraf Rusulov, Hussein Haji Mustafazadeh ( Sheki) ,Soltan Ismailov (Sheki) ,Rafik Allahverdiyev (Shusha) and Jabir Jabbarov.

These craftsmen have played an instrumetal role in keeping this ancient craft alive by not only practicing it but also passing their ancient skills to the younger generation.

They also have had the opportunity to display their craft in various international exhibitions around the world, thereby adding to their experience.

                 Examples

The round form Shebeke made by Hussein Haji Mustafazadeh in Sheki is unique,because it is curved and trucated rather than straight and the wood around it is from oriental plane trees.

 

Photo credit: Pinterest

Various kinds of Windows, Doors, Partitions, Figures,Lamps, Puzzles, etc form part of the Shebeke work. They are also sold as soveniers for tourists as a reminder of their journey to Azerbaijan.

Photo credit: Marina Alin

Persian Stained Glass

Doris Duke, Shangri La (Hawaii)

Photo credit:Pinterest

 Introduction

Persian architecture gives great importance to light ,which is an integral and sacred element in the nation’s culture. Combined with the glass art, the light leaves a unique impact on it’s buildings.

It represents the Cultural, Environmental and Artistic element of the Persian nation.

There are two kinds of Stained Glass used in Iran.

1.) Gireh- Chini (decorative wood lattice) and

2.) Orosi-Sazi (sash style)

Gireh -Chini

One of the most decorative and beautiful handicraft of Iran is ,Gireh-chini or Gireh-sazi.

Gereh is the Persian word for ,’knot’ ,and Gireh Chini means ‘knot making’, and refers to the complex system of geometric patterns that emerge upon the specific arrangement of Five 5 fundamental shapes namely.

1 . The Decagon

2 . Bawtie

3 . Rhombus

4 . Hexagon

5 . Pentagon.

Geometric knots that are beautifully and rhythmically arranged are considered an essential part of Gireh .

Gireh- chini is an Islamic decoration art form used in Architecture (stone ,metal ,plaster,wood) etc and Handicrafts (book cover, tapestry )etc.

It can be done on Various Surfaces like walls, domes and windows. In Iran Gireh- chini patterns are seen in bannai brickwork, stucco and mosaic.

Gireh -Chini on Wood:

Chinese Knots:

Knots or Gireh are small pieces of wood that lock together in tabs to create beautiful patterns.They are also called the, Chinese Knot.

Gireh Chini or Gireh Sazi refers to two techniques of wood work either a lattice frame which could be left plain or filled with coloured glass .

It is a kind of delicate art that originated in the early Islamic period in Iran.

The more delicate they are the more artistically valuable they are.

Using tongue and groove joints makes Gireh- chini pieces endure the different climate of Iran.

Different woods used in Gireh -Chini

Sycamore wood is the preferred choice of wood for Gireh patterns, which fortunately is the native tree of Iran.

It is a preferred choice for making knots.It has a cohesive texture and high resistance.

Although many other types of wood can also be used in making Gireh patterns.

They include ,Walnut,Beech, Morus, Almond, Silverberry, Zelkova,Orange, Pear Flax and Jujube .

The pieces of wood are used in their raw colour and no paint is added.

Sometimes the wooden lattice is made without glass inserted, while in many gireh patterns glass is behind the lattice.

                   Uses 

Gereh patterns are visible on walls, domes, doors of shrines, pulpits, windows, frames, tableaus, dividers and many other decorative objects.

Today, there are Girih Chini workshops in Tehran, where this craft is still practiced.

           Garden of senses

With Gireh patterns , the Architects can manage to demonstrate multiple layers and work upon their skills. 

The first layer is the actual garden which people can see when they open the window and the second layer is the artificial garden of the girih patterns. The multicolour layer,  creates a burst of colourful  patterns blooming in the sunshine. 

 In the past Gireh-Chini or Gireh- Sazi  was widely practiced in decorating Persian interiors. The ornateness of the doors and windows indicated the Economic status of the owner. 

         Time -consuming

Gireh -chini or Gireh-sazi, like many handicrafts requires a lot of hard work and patience.

With wooden grooves matching the length and proportions of delicate glass, it is a skill perfected with time and practice. 

               Examples

Gireh patterns have been used to decorate Mosque, Palaces and even private Homes of wealthy individuals in Iran .

Famous example include the Dowlatabad Garden in the city of Yazd (Iran). It is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

     

      Ghavarehbori

Photo credit: Pinterest

        Introduction

Ghavareh bori is an unknown art that was used to decorate doors and windows of houses in Safavid and Qajar era. 

It is similar to the Persian art of Gireh Chini due to use of Islamic design and pattern. Sometimes this art is also called Eslimi Chini.

The important difference between Ghavareh bori and Gireh chini is that Ghavareh bori has curved layout  once or twice while Gireh is geometric in form. 

Ghavareh-bori is simple compared to complex geometric patterns of Gireh chini.

Photo credit: Pinterest

       

               Orosi

Orosi: Sash doors/windows

                  Word

The word Oroos means bride in Urdu language and Oroosi means bride-like.

Well Oroosi in Iran is a traditional architectural (door/window )element.This window is decorated just like a bride,filled with tiny glass pieces in happy and eye candy colours.

            Vision to behold

The Orosi windows demonstrates the Refined Persian Arts in it’s purest form. The windows are built with the choicest wood and decorated with finest, most beautiful glass in various different forms and patterns, making them a Vision to Behold.

Persian architects describe it as a window that ,”usually covers whole of the wall and is from roof to floor, and it’s opening is in vertical axis”.

Orosi as a component is well co-ordinated with the whole geometry of the house.

                  Origin

Orosi windows can be traced back to the 12th century. The Safavid made elaborate use of Orosi windows in the decoration of their palaces and Qajar period witnessed some of the most sophisticated craftsman ship and ornamentation of Orosi work.

         Sash windows/doors

Sash making of wooden doors / window lattice is a sliding door that is raised vertically up and down and thus the arm is closed. 

The upper part located under the roof is decorated with pieces of coloured glass.

                     Design

These doors and windows are basically Rectangular in shape and the upper part is in the shape of rectangular crescent, which is decorated with coloured glass, to adjust the exposure and soften the light for houses in tropical areas. 

Other shapes include Half-moon and Barrel shape.

                      Uses

Photo credit: Pinterest

Orosi windows /doors are used in places where you don’t need to open the door much because it disturbs the space.

No nail or glue is used in this type of art and all the images and figures are obtained by connecting small wooden joints and glass pieces.

An Orosi Door/Window offer suitable internal temperature,shade controlled natural light, heat insulation and natural ventilation.

This type of door or window was widely used in tropical areas which were exposed to the harsh sun.

It was intended to regulate and mitigate sunlight thereby cooling the interiors, and protecting the delicate and precious rugs from insects and the Sun.

             Colours of Orosi 

Apart from the various health benefits they offer ,Orosi windows are aesthetically pleasing to the eye.

Though Orosi work has four or five colour limitations and somehow designs do not require any more colours.

But colours such as red, yellow, green, blue ,violet, purple have also been used.

Examples

Some wonderful examples of this exquisite art can be found in the ancient houses of Esfahan, Kashan, Shiraz and Yazd.

I’ve tried to give examples based on Houses, Palaces, Museums etc., they are just tip of the iceberg keeping the vastness of the size and heritage of Iran.

Houses:

Sheikh Al Islam House, Alam’s House (Isfahan), Abbasi House (Kashan) ,Borujerdi House(Kashan)

Palaces:

Chehelsotun , Hasht-Behesht, Karim khan citadel (Shiraz)

Museums:

Sanandaj Museum (Kurdistan province) , Amir Latifi House, Gorgan (Museum of Gorgan handicrafts)

Islamic Art Museum (Isfahan)

Hotels:

Mollabashi House(Isfahan), Abbasi Hotel (Isfahan) ,Angoorestan House (Isfahan)

Shrines:

Holy shrine of Imam e Reza a. s. (Mashshad) 

Darb – I -Imam Shrine(Isfahan)

The city of Sanandaj in the (Western part of Iran ) is home to where this art is still being practiced and flourish.

Examples of Historical houses, Palaces and Mosque in Iran. 

Tabatabaei House, Kashan .

Photo credit:Pinterest

Golestan Palace, Tehran.

Photo credit: Pinterest

Mashroute (Constitution House), Isfahan

Photo credit: Pinterest

This is a historic house from Qajar period. On an interesting twist to history it is considered as one of the first Inter-Faith centres in the World.

Nasir-ul-Mulk Mosque or the Pink Mosque (Shiraz)

Photo credit:Pinterest

Built during the Qajar period. Nasir al Mulk Mosque is a traditional Mosque located in Shiraz, Iran. It is popularly known as, Pink Mosque 

It was built in 1888,and display traditional elements of Persian architecture including extensive coloured glass or Orosi on it’s facade. 

Aminiha Hosseiniyeh (Qazwin)

Photo credit: Pinterest

Asef Vaziri Mansion or Kurd House Museum (Sanandaj)

Photo credit:Pinterest

           

             Turkey

               Introduction

Turkey has a fascinating history of glass especially Istanbul, which has been a centre of glass making during the Ottoman Era.

Polychrome glass mosaic windows were an important part of Ottoman architecture.

       Turkish Lancet Windows

A lancet window is a tall, narrow window with a pointed arch at it’s top. It is called  lancet because it resembles a lance. Turkish windows are usually Lancet in shape, made in wood and plaster. 

Turkish Gypsum Plaster           Windows

Plaster lancet windows were used in Turkish monumental architecture. This technique has been used since the Seljuk Era. 

The Ottoman architects utilised the thickness of the walls to develop a double layer of Upper windows , Dislik (exterior window) and Iclik (interior window).

            Interior window

         ( Revzen- i -menkus) 

The interior window was set into the inner wall made of small pieces of glass of various colours arranged within a plaster frame. 

The Ottomans called the decorative windows fitted with coloured glass, ‘revzen-i-menkus’ or (embroidered windows) .

These types of windows appeared in the 15th century and quickly became window structure of choice. 

The plaster frame maker ,like the jewelry maker, sought to fill every single space with some sort of a glass piece, thus advancing the craft into an art form. 

                          Design

Plaster windows  are designed in geometrical pattern, vegetal motifs and calligraphic bands.           

          External windows

Located on the outside of the wall ,the function of the exterior window was to protect the gypsum plaster window from the inclement weather.

Glass used in the exterior windows was thick and more durable. It was transparent too without decoration in order to maximize the amount of in coming light.

Examples of Stained glass in Turkey

Stained glass in Turkey has been used in Palaces, Mansions, Libraries and most importantly in Mosques.

Some of the most exquisite stained glass work in Turkey is found in Mosques. Below are few examples found in Mosques, Palaces and Mansions etc. 

Mosque:

Sultan Ahmed Mosque, Sulemaniye Mosque,Sinan Pasha Mosque, Yeni Mosque, Rustem Pasha Mosque, Blue Mosque. 

Palace:

Topkapi Palace. 

Bakhchisaray Palace, Crimea Russia (once part of the Ottoman Empire) . 

House:

Melink House of Kordopoulos, Bulgaria

Anatolian Town Houses. 

Some exquisite examples of Turkish architectural interiors

Blue Mosque interior, Istanbul (Turkey)

Photo credit: Pinterest        

 Topkapi Palace, Istanbul

 Photo credit: Pinterest     

 Melnik House, Bulgaria

 Photo credit: Pinterest    

  Sirkec Station, Istanbul



 Photo credit: Pinterest        

 Anatolian house interior

Photo credit: Pinterest

                India

              Introduction

The Indian Sub-continent is dotted with havelis ,mansions, palaces,deoris  having their extended balconies and rooms covered in exquisite glass and woodwork.

                  Lucknow

Growing up in the historic city of Lucknow, I was exposed to the rich tapestry of the city including it’s colourful interior.

Visting the Imambara’s or holy shrines of the city I was awestruck with the burst of colours around me, from the alluring chandelier, kandeels, to the coloured doors and windows ,infact any visitor would be in awe with the aesthetics and beauty of these buildings.

Examples include the exquisite glass interiors of the Shah Najaf Imambara, Chota Imambara, Imambara Sibtainabad etc. 

I remember being amazed by the sheer beauty and grandeur of these holy places as a little girl  and here I am capturing those moments in writing. 

Imambada Afzal Mahal , Chowk (Lucknow) 

Photo credit: Facebook

I still remember passing through the glass covered balcony spaces jutting out of the buildings in the old city ,keeping the privacy of the residents intact.

This is a black and white vintage photo from 1960’s in the collection of Mr. Ibrahim Ali Khan Shishmahal a member of the Royal family of Lucknow.

I have used it just to give an idea of Lucknow’s architectural heritage which sadly is under threat.

Examples of colourful Indian interiors. 

 

Blissful interior of Peer Dastgir Sahab (Kashmir valley) 

       

Rajasthan, the Land of Colour

Sheesh Mahal, Deogarh Palace (Rajasthan)                

The desert state of Rajasthan is filled with beautiful palaces and havelis,reminding the people of their glorious past and heritage.

Some of these private spaces have been graced with exquisite glasswork which forms the facade or share the private space of the house.

Mehrangarh Fort ,Jodhpur (Rajasthan) 

Photo credit:Pinterest

Bohra House interior ,Sidhpur (Gujarat) 

Photo credit: Pinterest

  Raheem Residency , Alleppey (Kerala) 

Photo credit: Pinterest

 Hussaini Kothi , Hyderabad (Telangana) 

Photo credit: Pinterest

     

Stores and online websites

India having a rich cultural heritage  is filled with antique stores and thrift shops selling cultural items at throw away prices. Some sell them at exceedingly high price while some stuff is sold at nominal rates.

It all depends on the location and publicity of these stores.

Websites

Antique doors , windows  and other architectural salvage are now available to customers around the world through online websites like Ebay, Etsy, The old world interiors etc. 

These websites provide opportunities to customers to reuse and revamp their interiors.

Some have recycled it as cupboards, hangers, screens,floating shelves ,for Sun-rooms or just simple frames.

Photo credit : Pinterest

              Indian Bazaar

The traditional Indian market or Bazaar caters to the needs of people selling vintage, traditional items to suit every pocket. 

Mumbai has Chor Bazaar ,Lucknow has Nakhkhas market ,Delhi has Amar colony , infact every city in the country has a traditional bazaar . 

High end stores like The Antique Loft, located in Hyderabad (Telengana) sells vintage furniture.

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Glass-wood Room divider (Philippines) 

    The Glass Studio

Swati Chandgadkar a former English Professor and her team has restored coloured glass over 100 years old across Mumbai,Goa ,Chennai ,Singapore.

She started a firm called The Glass Studio in 1996 and has till date restored a 2,300sqft of stained glass in Mumbai University, a 220 year old Jama Masjid in Mumbai,old Churches ,Jivdani Mata Temple,Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue, J.N. Petit Library amongst other restoration work.

    New lease of life

For connoisseur of arts, art has no boundaries, their eyes see the beauty in the craft, one such house is of Mumbai based lawyer Mr. Mehmood Mehdi Abidi, he is also the creator and presenter of You Tube channel, “Culture Bazaar”.

He changes the look, style and decor of his rooms whenever he’s online explaining the culture,language and traditions of his beloved city of Lucknow which is aired on You Tube. 

He was kind enough to share this piece of glass window, which he had bought from a thrift store and revamped it.

The glasses are old but were not part of the wooden frame. He took the trouble of finding old window glass to fit in the wooden frame and all his efforts have been paid off with an exquisite wood and glass  Wall Partition. 

With a little bit of patience and eye for detail a simple work can be turned into a Piece of Art ,aesthetic and pleasing to our senses. 

Coloured glass windows in Museum collections around the world. 

Victoria and Albert Museum:

Photo credit: Pinterest

Window with stucco and glass ,Egypt 18th -20th century. 

Calligraphic panel with Shahada or Muslim profession of faith. 

Discover Islamic Art:

Virtual Museum.

Photo credit: Pinterest

Cairo, Ottoman Egypt, 16th century. 

The Metropolitan Museum of Art (THE  MET) 

 

Photo credit : Pinterest

Leighton House, England

   Photo credit: Pinterest

                Conclusion

I have always believed in the Power of Pictures, they always speak for themselves even if we fail to notice. I’ve chosen a few colourful  interior spaces for my readers to cheer up and be inspired to Live Life in Colours. 

Colour candy 

These pictures include Mosque, Palace, Museum, Hotels and even private Homes some lavishly decorated with exquisite glasswork to simple ones . 

     Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem

           Beiteddine Palace, Lebanon

  Morrocan Riad Interior ,(Morocco)

             A Tunisian Blue

Jawi Perenakan House, Penang (Malaysia)

Emerson Spice ,Stone Town (Zanzibar)

             House in Tblisi, Georgia

   Gulzar Manzil, Chiniot (Pakistan)

         Qamariya windows (Yemen) 

Dedication

I dedicate this article to my loving mother,my Amma who has taught me the values and principles of living a good life. 

She has guided me and showed me the ,’true colours of life ‘,of selfless care for others, needy and the downtrodden. 

Of giving love and respect to the weak and the elders of the society….. I grew up and learnt so much just by watching her deal with family and friends. 

These are the colours of life that I deeply respect,value and cherish.